Need help ASAP

[Rip_oden]

I have a 20L tank with only a frogfish and valentini puffer and a couple of damsel fish as food for the frogfish. beginning this week i noticed my frogfish what seems like shedding his skin but not eating, i started doing some research to see what it could be but i couldnt find anything about it let alone any information on frogfish itself. i later ruled it to brooklynella or marine ich but it died within a few hours. i did do a 50% water change 2 days before i noticed anything wrong with the frogfish. fast forward to today (2 days later) this morning everything in my tank died besides my corals who are all healthy. They all present with the same thing shedding skins. i checked my water parameters and they are in normal range. im about to treat my tank completely but not sure how to since i have about 10+ corals all LPS. does anyone have any advice for me?

 

[littlefoxx]

@vetteguy53081 @Jay Hemdal @lion king

 

[LAReefer4Life]

Sounds like brooklynella but no way for anyone to confirm unless you had video and pictures..

If you don't have any remaining fish in the aquarium. Just keep it running fish-less for a minimum 6 weeks but 8 weeks is recommended. Running the temp slightly higher (80 degrees) will also speed up the life cycle of the parasites.

Spot feed the aquarium 1x per week to feed the beneficial bacterial and corals.

After that, start QTing or sourcing your fish from vendors that practice QT measures. Like marine collectors and ocean devotion to name a couple. I wouldn't feed damsels as bring in parasites and it would be a huge pain to QT them every time.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have a 20L tank with only a frogfish and valentini puffer and a couple of damsel fish as food for the frogfish. beginning this week i noticed my frogfish what seems like shedding his skin but not eating, i started doing some research to see what it could be but i couldnt find anything about it let alone any information on frogfish itself. i later ruled it to brooklynella or marine ich but it died within a few hours. i did do a 50% water change 2 days before i noticed anything wrong with the frogfish. fast forward to today (2 days later) this morning everything in my tank died besides my corals who are all healthy. They all present with the same thing shedding skins. i checked my water parameters and they are in normal range. im about to treat my tank completely but not sure how to since i have about 10+ corals all LPS. does anyone have any advice for me?

Sorry to hear. What is age of tank?
is tank reef ready or with a hang on back (HOB) filter?
What is ammonia and ph level and how are you testing?
Can you provide pic or video of overall tank?

Lastly, did you notice fish breathing heavy after water change and when you changed water, did you use same temp and test salinity to assure noy higher than that of tank?

 

[Rip_oden]

Sounds like brooklynella but no way for anyone to confirm unless you had video and pictures..

If you don't have any remaining fish in the aquarium. Just keep it running fishless for minimum 6 weeks, but 8 weeks is recommended.

Spot feed the aquarium 1x per week to feed the beneficial bacterial and corals.

After that, start QTing or sourcing your fish from vendors that practice QT measures. Like marine collectors and ocean devotion to name a couple. I wouldn't feed damsels as bring in parasites and it would be a huge pain to QT them every time.

ok thank you, should i do weekly water changes and should i be dosing anything to help remove whatever is in my tank?

 

[LAReefer4Life]

ok thank you, should i do weekly water changes and should i be dosing anything to help remove whatever is in my tank?

No, small weekly 10% water changes are always a good measure for the aquarium.

The parasite will starve out and die without any fish in the aquarium. So nothing additional needs to be done.

If you add any coral or inverts (anything wet essentially) the fallow period starts over because they have the potential to bring in unwanted parasites.

 

[Rip_oden]

Sorry to hear. What is age of tank?
is tank reef ready or with a hang on back (HOB) filter?
What is ammonia and ph level and how are you testing?
Can you provide pic or video of overall tank?

Lastly, did you notice fish breathing heavy after water change and when you changed water, did you use same temp and test salinity to assure noy higher than that of tank?

i had a heater in my saltwater reservoir, i had the tank running for 3 months before adding the frogfish. i have 2 saltwater tanks and this tank that i lost all my fish in used water from my other tank to jump start it. ammonia was 0 and ph was 8.1.

 

[MERKEY]

Since there are no fish in the tank, don't add any for at least 45 days. This includes corals and invertebrates.

It's called a fallow period.

It used to he 70+ days but times have changed.

Get a quarantine tank up and running.

Quarantine all fish before adding to display.

Everyone does quarantine differently but the point is to catch any illness before you add it to the display.

 

[Rip_oden]

No, small weekly 10% water changes are always a good measure for the aquarium.

The parasite will starve out and die without any fish in the aquarium. So nothing additional needs to be done.

If you add any coral or inverts (anything wet essentially) you fallow period starts over because they have the potential to bring in unwanted parasites.

got it thanks

 

[Rip_oden]

I have a 20L tank with only a frogfish and valentini puffer and a couple of damsel fish as food for the frogfish. beginning this week i noticed my frogfish what seems like shedding his skin but not eating, i started doing some research to see what it could be but i couldnt find anything about it let alone any information on frogfish itself. i later ruled it to brooklynella or marine ich but it died within a few hours. i did do a 50% water change 2 days before i noticed anything wrong with the frogfish. fast forward to today (2 days later) this morning everything in my tank died besides my corals who are all healthy. They all present with the same thing shedding skins. i checked my water parameters and they are in normal range. im about to treat my tank completely but not sure how to since i have about 10+ corals all LPS. does anyone have any advice for me?

 

[vetteguy53081]

ok thank you, should i do weekly water changes and should i be dosing anything to help remove whatever is in my tank?

Weekly to bi-weekly is a part of general maintenance and having reliable test kits will help determine need for water changes. Please provide video of system to determine if anything needed as Brook is an assumption and something a frogfish typically wont get but they get bacterial.
Overfeeding is also an issue with frogfish/angler fish as is high ammonia and nitrates

 

[Rip_oden]

I have a 20L tank with only a frogfish and valentini puffer and a couple of damsel fish as food for the frogfish. beginning this week i noticed my frogfish what seems like shedding his skin but not eating, i started doing some research to see what it could be but i couldnt find anything about it let alone any information on frogfish itself. i later ruled it to brooklynella or marine ich but it died within a few hours. i did do a 50% water change 2 days before i noticed anything wrong with the frogfish. fast forward to today (2 days later) this morning everything in my tank died besides my corals who are all healthy. They all present with the same thing shedding skins. i checked my water parameters and they are in normal range. im about to treat my tank completely but not sure how to since i have about 10+ corals all LPS. does anyone have any advice for me?

 

[vetteguy53081]

How are you testing your levels?
Your tank as suspected has a hang on back filter and while iy can help with water movement and trapping some particles, its a mechanical filter and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to manage proper water quality. The aquaclear will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished with use of carbon and GFO as examples
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces as examples. Best it to add or use a hang on refugium such as Reef octopus or AquaMaxx unit and even add a hang on skimmer such as ice cap K1- or K2 100
Ammonia spike may have been very possible and often undetectable after the spike event.

 

[Rip_oden]

How are you testing your levels?
Your tank as suspected has a hang on back filter and while iy can help with water movement and trapping some particles, its a mechanical filter and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to manage proper water quality. The aquaclear will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished with use of carbon and GFO as examples
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces as examples. Best it to add or use a hang on refugium such as Reef octopus or AquaMaxx unit and even add a hang on skimmer such as ice cap K1- or K2 100
Ammonia spike may have been very possible and often undetectable after the spike event.

I use API saltwater testers, I have mechanical chemical and biological all in my HOB filter. Ammonia came out 0 nitrite is .25 and nitrate was 20ppm.

 

[slingfox]

I use API saltwater testers, I have mechanical chemical and biological all in my HOB filter. Ammonia came out 0 nitrite is .25 and nitrate was 20ppm.

API is considered an unreliable testing kit on this board. Should replace with Salifert, Hanna, or RedSea when you have the chance.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I use API saltwater testers, I have mechanical chemical and biological all in my HOB filter. Ammonia came out 0 nitrite is .25 and nitrate was 20ppm.

Api well known for false results and I highly suggest taking a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
The amount of supplements chemical and biological you have in power filter likely not enough/inadequate to sustain your overall needs.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I have a 20L tank with only a frogfish and valentini puffer and a couple of damsel fish as food for the frogfish. beginning this week i noticed my frogfish what seems like shedding his skin but not eating, i started doing some research to see what it could be but i couldnt find anything about it let alone any information on frogfish itself. i later ruled it to brooklynella or marine ich but it died within a few hours. i did do a 50% water change 2 days before i noticed anything wrong with the frogfish. fast forward to today (2 days later) this morning everything in my tank died besides my corals who are all healthy. They all present with the same thing shedding skins. i checked my water parameters and they are in normal range. im about to treat my tank completely but not sure how to since i have about 10+ corals all LPS. does anyone have any advice for me?

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Yes - it sure does sound like Brooklynella or possibly ich. Here is a post on fallow periods (TLDR; I'd hold the tank fishless for 60 days).

45 Day Fallow periods

I've been doing some research into the "76 day fallow period". I never heard of that prior to coming to Reef2Reef this past summer. I had always used 32 days as the maximum time for a tomont to remain viable under tropical conditions, and then I would round up to 45 days to help ensure that...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

i had a heater in my saltwater reservoir, i had the tank running for 3 months before adding the frogfish. i have 2 saltwater tanks and this tank that i lost all my fish in used water from my other tank to jump start it. ammonia was 0 and ph was 8.1.

Water doesn't jump start a new tank, the nitrifying bacter lives on surface area's, not free floating in the water. Transferring a rock to a new tank is the way to jump start it.

Its also a huge bioload in a 20 gallon with only a hob filter isn't sufficient filtration IMO.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Water doesn't jump start a new tank, the nitrifying bacter lives on surface area's, not free floating in the water. Transferring a rock to a new tank is the way to jump start it.

Its also a huge bioload in a 20 gallon with only a hob filter isn't sufficient filtration IMO.

Working off of the tank picture they posted last night - the corals seemed o.k., so I ruled out water quality issues.