Need basement sump plumbing help...

Tstorm

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I recently purchased a Cade 1200 S2/P from AlgeaBarn. I really like the larger width on the Cade peninsula tanks and decided to go with them vs the more expensive custom route. Im removing the stock sump and plumbing and fitting it with a DIY 60 gallon breeder and roller mat placed in my basement. BRS sells these nifty metric to standard adaptors from Adaptive Reef that fit right onto my Cade under the bulkhead fitting. The drain lines will be converted over to 1-1/4" lines, and the duel return lines in the overflow box are 3/4".

My return pump will be a Sicce Syncra SDC 9.0. I know people on here don't recommend a DC return for a basement sump. However, looking at the data of this pump vs a lot of other AC pumps. This pump seemed to fit bill other than going external and dealing with drilling my sump, additional noise, and power consumption. The SDC 9.0 has 23 feet of head height rating, and ill be dealing with around 12-1/2'(give or take). It also has a 5 year warranty and to make things better BRS had a sale on Sicce pumps which helped sweeten the pot. Im hoping to get around 750-1000 gph through my sump. Sicce's specs state I should be getting around 1500gph at 13Ft. The pump comes with both 1" and 3/4" slip fittings. I drew some really rough sketches to help everyone get an Idea of my situation and ideas.

Overveiw.JPG


That's a little background so here's my question. My original thought was to run 1" pvc from the pump all the way to my floor joists under the tank and run 2x - 1" to 3/4" reducing tees from Home Depot. Then plug the far end of the 1" tee with a plug and then run two 3/4" pipes 6 feet through my joist, stand, then into the tank. My concern is that the 1" plug will cause significant head pressure loss? However then benefit of this option is it might help equalize the flow in the 3/4" pipe on both sides of the overflow box? Here's another sketch.
option 1.JPG


Option 2 was to run 1" pipe to the joist and then use a 1" to 3/4" reducing slip fitting to a 3/4" tee for the first return. Then fit a 3/4" pipe between the tee and a 90 degree elbow to the second return line. I feel like this option would decrease head pressure and increase flow? Then the down Side is the flow would be biased towards the side with the elbow and lacking on the tee side?
Option 2.JPG


Option 3 would be to utilize the 3/4" slip fitting the Sicce comes with and run 3/4" all the way to the tank. Ive read that it's better to run larger pipe size as far as you can when dealing with larger head pressures. Is this true, or am I just over thinking all this? Any help from some knowledgeable plumbers or people who have experience with basement sumps would be great!
 

Asm481

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I second the 1 inch till the last elbow. Put valves in both runs to be able to balance flow as you wish.
 
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JGT

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I have this exact setup in terms of basement sump and Sicce 9. I use 1.25” off of the Sicce and don’t reduce down until I get to the returns where I think it’s 3/4”.
 
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Tstorm

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I have this exact setup in terms of basement sump and Sicce 9. I use 1.25” off of the Sicce and don’t reduce down until I get to the returns where I think it’s 3/4”.
How has the Sicce held up? Did you go with a tee, elbow, and ball valves to equalize? I think the largest fitting mine came with was 1".
 
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JGT

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Set and forget. And with a 5 year warranty, you are covered if something does break.
You’ll want gate valves for your drains. Ball valves don’t give you the level of precision you will need to dial in the drains.
Have a gate valve on the return but don’t ever use it. I have my return going into a manifold, then the UV and back into the return line. I tee off under the tank to the 2 returns- one on each end of the tank. Each main return splits into 2 branch returns which is then split into 4 Loctites for a total of 8 outputs.
I also used flexible PVC. Great stuff. No need for elbows.
 
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RandyL

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I also have my sump plumbed to my tank on the first floor. Unfortunately, in addition to the vertical distance, I also have about 24' of horizontal distance I have to cover. I've found that 1" pipe of that length does affect the head pressure a bit, so I'm expanding it to 1.5". Again, you may not have that problem since you won't be using as much pipe, but something to consider.
 
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Tstorm

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I also have my sump plumbed to my tank on the first floor. Unfortunately, in addition to the vertical distance, I also have about 24' of horizontal distance I have to cover. I've found that 1" pipe of that length does affect the head pressure a bit, so I'm expanding it to 1.5". Again, you may not have that problem since you won't be using as much pipe, but something to consider.
Im hoping I can get away with 1" for my distance. I have about 2 feet of horizontal distance which I will be using 45s to cover. Ive decided to tee off under the joist with 1" and run two 1" elbows off that tee. Then reduce to 3/4" right before entering the tanks bulkheads. Fingers crossed
 
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