Petcrazyson
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I wouldn’t
NateRealBig's Truly Minimalist 120g Office Build
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LaloJ
Well-Known Member
I love this! Can you share more details and pictures of how you built it?Paint drying as we speak. Fish QT on bottom shelf, coral QTs on next one up, and prop tanks will eventually go on the top.
OP
OP
Hi there - thanks for the question! I'll look back through my pictures, and see what I have. It was relatively cheap and simple. I'll put up the steps I took for the finished product and add them in here - gimme a little bit.
Chat soon
OP
OP
Man, been forever since i updated.. I've made a lot of progress in some areas, and others, none at all....
Mid-July, got the tank on the stand and plumbed....
Went with 2 ea Ecotech Vectra S2s. I'm running then at 20% power... I prefer slow sump flow.
There's a filter stock in the pic, but this was just to clean dust and silt from the rock that has been cutting. Sticking to "super simple", tank is being run with no filter sick and no controller.
I'm skimming very wet with the Tunze.
I still have not straightened up the pile of pump controllers or cords that are underneath the towel in the below pic.
Mid-July, got the tank on the stand and plumbed....
Went with 2 ea Ecotech Vectra S2s. I'm running then at 20% power... I prefer slow sump flow.
There's a filter stock in the pic, but this was just to clean dust and silt from the rock that has been cutting. Sticking to "super simple", tank is being run with no filter sick and no controller.
I'm skimming very wet with the Tunze.
I still have not straightened up the pile of pump controllers or cords that are underneath the towel in the below pic.
OP
OP
Last week of July picked up a few corals. The ones in the pics below, and a bunch of LPS and polyps....
RR Pink Caddy
Myagi Tort
TSA Rainbow Sherbet
Oregon Tort
TG OG Yellow Fiji Leather
RR Pink Caddy
Myagi Tort
TSA Rainbow Sherbet
Oregon Tort
TG OG Yellow Fiji Leather
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OP
OP
Here's the tank when first set up... also mid-July.
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OP
OP
Now for "the bad" and "the ugly"....
Since the QTs have been set up, 0 NO3 and PO4 have registered on my Hanna checkers. Over the month of July i noticed my anemones (CSB and Nexus Busrst) did not seem happy, we're slowly shrinking, and not responding to feedings.... I also made note of my Trachy generally declining in health (all corals healthy and growing, even an STNing Hawkins I got from my brother). Almost certain that the anemones and Trachy were suffering from the low phosphate levels, i increased amino acid dosing, and added Reef Roids and Brightwell's Revive to my daily QT feedings.
I immediately noticed a negative response from my anemones. They shrunk even further, and my Nexus Burst split (forming an all green specimen, in addition to the now 2/3 orange and 1/3 green specimen). I decided to discontinue the Revive. I also noticed receding tissue on one of my plate corals. I was now feeding each QT 3 ml Brightwell's aminos, a scoop of reef Chili, and a scoop of Reef Roids.
Over the course of a few weeks, i allowed my alkalinity to creep up into the mid-9's. The above animals continued to decline in health. The Hawkins RTNd and i saw that the SPS in QT 1 were exhibiting unhealthy flesh, and retracted polyps. Also my yellow Fiji Leather also took a turn towards the worse. This continued through August.
I ended up losing the Trachy as well (I'm REALLY mad at myself for this)... And just last week, the Cali Tort I had (a VERY hardy coral) began to STN. (WTAF??)
Here are some pics of the worst....
RIP
RIP
Corals in the display are all doing great (mind you, with exact same husbandry, but running at a lower dKH of about 8.4) at this point.
Just last week came time for the second QT drop, and i immediately fragged all the corals, and placed one frag of each specimen, along with all 3 anemones in the display.
They IMMEDIATELY began looking better. Within 24 hours the anemones were expanding and showing better coloration, the STN on the Tortuosa has stopped, and flesh on the Oregon Tort looked very good. Also all 3 plates were full with polyps extended. Tonight, about 1 week after i fragged and added the corals to the display, you cannot tell at all they were (what i guess to be) on the brink of death.
I attribute this mostly to the rise in alkalinity. 9.5 is simply too high for the QT ULNS (I don't strive for ULNS, this is just where the systems balance lies). I had forgotten how sensitive corals can be in the presence of such low nitrate and phosphate (shame on me). I also believe strongly there is something in the Revive that the anemones did not like at all. Finally, i believe the steep increase in aminos (converted quickly to bio-available nitrate) allowed phosphate to drop even lower, having an overall negative impact to the QT systems by shifting the balance to PO4 limiting...
I have allowed the alkalinity in the quarantines to 8.4-8.5 and everything is doing well, and showing signs of growth.
The day i added the frags i removed the large rock on the left of the display, and added a smaller piece of dry, uncycled rock, along with a few small pieces of flattened base rock, to allow placement (and importantly, separation) of the Acans, Favias, and Platygyras.
Pics and videos of the new display scape to come....
Since the QTs have been set up, 0 NO3 and PO4 have registered on my Hanna checkers. Over the month of July i noticed my anemones (CSB and Nexus Busrst) did not seem happy, we're slowly shrinking, and not responding to feedings.... I also made note of my Trachy generally declining in health (all corals healthy and growing, even an STNing Hawkins I got from my brother). Almost certain that the anemones and Trachy were suffering from the low phosphate levels, i increased amino acid dosing, and added Reef Roids and Brightwell's Revive to my daily QT feedings.
I immediately noticed a negative response from my anemones. They shrunk even further, and my Nexus Burst split (forming an all green specimen, in addition to the now 2/3 orange and 1/3 green specimen). I decided to discontinue the Revive. I also noticed receding tissue on one of my plate corals. I was now feeding each QT 3 ml Brightwell's aminos, a scoop of reef Chili, and a scoop of Reef Roids.
Over the course of a few weeks, i allowed my alkalinity to creep up into the mid-9's. The above animals continued to decline in health. The Hawkins RTNd and i saw that the SPS in QT 1 were exhibiting unhealthy flesh, and retracted polyps. Also my yellow Fiji Leather also took a turn towards the worse. This continued through August.
I ended up losing the Trachy as well (I'm REALLY mad at myself for this)... And just last week, the Cali Tort I had (a VERY hardy coral) began to STN. (WTAF??)
Here are some pics of the worst....
RIP
RIP
Corals in the display are all doing great (mind you, with exact same husbandry, but running at a lower dKH of about 8.4) at this point.
Just last week came time for the second QT drop, and i immediately fragged all the corals, and placed one frag of each specimen, along with all 3 anemones in the display.
They IMMEDIATELY began looking better. Within 24 hours the anemones were expanding and showing better coloration, the STN on the Tortuosa has stopped, and flesh on the Oregon Tort looked very good. Also all 3 plates were full with polyps extended. Tonight, about 1 week after i fragged and added the corals to the display, you cannot tell at all they were (what i guess to be) on the brink of death.
I attribute this mostly to the rise in alkalinity. 9.5 is simply too high for the QT ULNS (I don't strive for ULNS, this is just where the systems balance lies). I had forgotten how sensitive corals can be in the presence of such low nitrate and phosphate (shame on me). I also believe strongly there is something in the Revive that the anemones did not like at all. Finally, i believe the steep increase in aminos (converted quickly to bio-available nitrate) allowed phosphate to drop even lower, having an overall negative impact to the QT systems by shifting the balance to PO4 limiting...
I have allowed the alkalinity in the quarantines to 8.4-8.5 and everything is doing well, and showing signs of growth.
The day i added the frags i removed the large rock on the left of the display, and added a smaller piece of dry, uncycled rock, along with a few small pieces of flattened base rock, to allow placement (and importantly, separation) of the Acans, Favias, and Platygyras.
Pics and videos of the new display scape to come....
OP
OP
Thank you! I changed out the big rock on the left for a couple smaller rocks, adding some real estate - i like it much better than the first. I'll post picks soon.
OP
OP
Oh almost forgot, I've been battling a killer sponge in my QT. Destroyed my Utter Chaos frags... managed to beat it back pretty good manually. Scrubbing with tooth brush and H202. Removed most of rock to make it easy to spot and remove. I just took out the last rock i see it on. Hopefully it doesn't show up on another one - it's my last!
Read this chapter of the journey here....
www.reef2reef.com
Read this chapter of the journey here....
Help - Sponge Killing Corals
Orange/tan sponge came in on a frag. Has spread to many spots in the tank. It starts on frag plug and grows up and over the frag, smothering the coral and killing it. Have tried: 1. Removing frag and let sit in air for 20 min. No effect. 2. Pouring non diluted hydrogen peroxide...
www.reef2reef.com
OP
OP
Just realized I had my videos all messed up. Wrong thumbnail for the wrong video... Stills that didn't match the video, ,etc... Here it is in better order, with a video from Jul 28. Posting old pic trying to document changes/updates and keep it all in chronological order. Current video/pics coming soon.
July 28 Vid
Couple stills from photo shoot....
July 28 Vid
Couple stills from photo shoot....
OP
OP
Current parameters - all systems are about the same.... Feeding ridiculous amounts of amino acids, Reef Chili, and Reef Roids to the the QT tanks and cannot register NO3 or PO4. Same with the display, although I am only feeding fish food and dosing the other stuff seldomly.
I'm truly not a numbers chaser. I prefer to run my systems around 9.0 dKH for alkalinity, and generally 5-10 ppm NO3 and just detectable PO4. These systems are trending at 0.0 for NO3 and PO4 and honestly I wouldn't care, except I've lost a couple corals that I really can't explain. So through process of elimination, I will bring up NO3 and PO4 (at least to detectable, even if they are on the low side).
Got some Trisodium Phosphate and Sodium Nitrate and put together a concoction. I am going to dose to 2.5 ppm NO3 and 0.035 ppm Phosphate daily for the next few days and see what happens.
www.reef2reef.com
I'm truly not a numbers chaser. I prefer to run my systems around 9.0 dKH for alkalinity, and generally 5-10 ppm NO3 and just detectable PO4. These systems are trending at 0.0 for NO3 and PO4 and honestly I wouldn't care, except I've lost a couple corals that I really can't explain. So through process of elimination, I will bring up NO3 and PO4 (at least to detectable, even if they are on the low side).
Got some Trisodium Phosphate and Sodium Nitrate and put together a concoction. I am going to dose to 2.5 ppm NO3 and 0.035 ppm Phosphate daily for the next few days and see what happens.
Could I Get a Quick Double Check on Combo NO3+PO4 Stock Solution?
Hello! I am trying to make a single stock solution that will raise my 135 gallon system's nitrates to 5.0 ppm and phosphate to 0.07 ppm with a 10 ml stock solution dose. For my stock solution, I am adding: 1. Trisodium Phosphate (Na3PO4 [LOUDWOLF-stated 99.9% pure]) 2. Sodium Nitrate...
www.reef2reef.com
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OP
OP
Got to post the bad and the ugly along with the good.
Went to frag my CSB a couple days ago. For those that don't know, it's important to cut the nem in half, ensuring the cut goes directly through the mouth.
Well, the nem was slippery and I was trying to hard to get a clean cut that I missed the anemone's mouth by like an inch. So, I was left with 1 anemone with a chunk missing out of it, and a lifeless chunk....
Somehow the little guy is still alive.... Looks like it's actually growing a mouth from nothing. Fingers crossed it hangs in there...
Went to frag my CSB a couple days ago. For those that don't know, it's important to cut the nem in half, ensuring the cut goes directly through the mouth.
Well, the nem was slippery and I was trying to hard to get a clean cut that I missed the anemone's mouth by like an inch. So, I was left with 1 anemone with a chunk missing out of it, and a lifeless chunk....
Somehow the little guy is still alive.... Looks like it's actually growing a mouth from nothing. Fingers crossed it hangs in there...
OP
OP
Got tired of mixing Reef Roids, Aminos, Reef Chili, and different kinds of fish food each night.
Bought some goodies at the grocery, and made a batch of coral food and a batch of fish food. Enough to last about a month! Super easy, although I had to do some measurements and calculations to make sure I was dosing the right amount of aminos, Reef Roids, and Reef Chili each day to the QT's...
The fish food ended up looking very algae-heavy, and I'm pretty sure that the chunks of algae are bigger than I wanted. It will be tough to tell until I can actually feed the tank, but need to freeze the food completely before I add any to the display to make sure any parasites/nasties from the live mussels and clams are gone....
To maximize the cost-savings I used only fresh ingredients from the grocery and dry ingredients from the pet store (I use BRS mainly). I'm curious to see how the freeze dried Mysis will reconstitute.
Bought some goodies at the grocery, and made a batch of coral food and a batch of fish food. Enough to last about a month! Super easy, although I had to do some measurements and calculations to make sure I was dosing the right amount of aminos, Reef Roids, and Reef Chili each day to the QT's...
The fish food ended up looking very algae-heavy, and I'm pretty sure that the chunks of algae are bigger than I wanted. It will be tough to tell until I can actually feed the tank, but need to freeze the food completely before I add any to the display to make sure any parasites/nasties from the live mussels and clams are gone....
To maximize the cost-savings I used only fresh ingredients from the grocery and dry ingredients from the pet store (I use BRS mainly). I'm curious to see how the freeze dried Mysis will reconstitute.
OP
OP
Heh. Dropped a cube in the display tonight of the new mix. While the cubes look like they're all algae in the trays, i felt like it was the right ratio once added to the tank.
The tangs didn't touch the algae though. Was a little surprised, as the algae mix i bought from BRS seemed like the "good stuff" (but boy it stinks!)....
Freaking spoiled fish. They better get used to it though - they've got 29 more days of it for breakfast and dinner!
The tangs didn't touch the algae though. Was a little surprised, as the algae mix i bought from BRS seemed like the "good stuff" (but boy it stinks!)....
Freaking spoiled fish. They better get used to it though - they've got 29 more days of it for breakfast and dinner!
OP
OP
Yes, this crossed my mind, and thanks for mentioning it. I hope you are right! I will do my best to wean them off of their current food (mysis, formula one, etc).
My goal was to base their diet on whole foods. I like LRS and Rod's food, but here are a couple things I don't particularly like about them:
1. Rod's uses land-based veggies in their mix
2. Neither have a large amount of algae in their vegetarian mixes
3. The bulk of the mixes are fish meat. Much better than many of the fillers other products use, but while fish fillets are protein rich, they are nutrient/element-lean. Shellfish (mussels, clams, oysters) are a better choice for a high-protein, nutrient-dense food mix base.
The idea with these recipes is to make a food that is not only better than what you can buy, but is cheaper as well. To the cost end, any food that needs to be ordered will be dry (if possible), and will not require overnight shipping. I am sourcing a quality, dry, amino acid mixture which will significantly reduce the cost of this mix. I will update the recipe when I make the next batch.
Sure - here is the Fish Food and Coral Food Recipe
Equipment Needed:
1. Scale
2. 1 - 2 quart stainless or glass mixing bowl
3. Ice cube trays (these have 60 cubes in each tray, and each cube is 3 ml)
4. Oyster shucker
5. Small (cereal size) bowl
6. Rubber spatula
7. Blender
8. Fork or small whisk
Coral Food Ingredients/Instructions (makes 1 full ice cube tray of food)
** This mix was based on my current feeding regimen for my 15 gallon fishless coral/invert quarantines. Each cube represents a single daily feeding of approximately 3 ml of aminos, a single small scoop (the one that come with the small Reef Chili container) of Reef Chili mix, and 1/2 scoop of Reef Roids. **
1. 150 grams Brightwell Amino Acids
2. 3 grams of Reef Chili
3. 1.5 grams of Reef Roids
4. 15 grams of aquarium water
Mix all ingredients together in mixing bowl using a fork or whisk, and empty bowl contents into ice cube tray. Freeze.
Fish+Coral Food Ingredients/Instructions (makes 2 full ice cube trays of food)
** This mix was based on my current feeding regimen for my 130 gallon mixed reef, which has a relatively large population of algae-eating fish, and would include 2 feedings of a single cube per day. I also feed ~ 1/2 teaspoon of NLS pellets once per day to supplement the feedings (mainly this is to keep the fish "used" to pellets, so that I can easily switch to auto fish feedings when I travel). I have made slight modifications to the original recipe below to allow for smaller pieces of algae, and larger pieces of shellfish.**
1. 1/2 lb or 15 ea fresh mussels (could substitute frozen)
3. 3/4 lb or 8 ea fresh little neck clams (could substitute frozen)
4. 1 lb or 6 ea fresh oysters (could substitute frozen)
5. 15 grams dried seaweed mix
120g Seaweed Mix
All-natural and gently dried mixture of seaweed to feed your saltwater fish. The custom mixture contains a dried blend of Dulse, Ulva (sea lettuce), and Laver Seaweeds. The mixture of different seaweeds makes the perfect mixture for herbivorous marine fish. Algae is rich in protein and other...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
6. 100 grams Brightwells Amino Acids
7. 15 grams freeze dried Mysis
8. 0.5 grams Reef Chili
9. 0.5 grams Reef Roids
10. 100 grams aquarium water
Remove shellfish shells, and place in small bowl (while you are shelling the seafood, water/liquid will come out. Save as much of this as you can). In blender, add algae mix, amino acids, and water. Blend on medium speed for 30 seconds. Add small shellfish bowl contents. Blend on medium speed for 10 seconds. Transfer blender contents to mixing bowl. Add Mysis, Reef Chili, and Reef Roids. Mix well with spatula. Pour mixing bowl contents evenly between 2 ice cube trays, and use spatula to spread mix. Freeze.
Let me know what questions you have, and also if you have any recommendations!
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LaloJ
Well-Known Member
Very nice info. I'm buying a seafood porridge that is made in my lfs, however I have wanted to experiment with other ingredients for a long time. This will help finicky fish have more opportunities to feed.
LaloJ
Well-Known Member
The ingredients used by the lfs are the following: clams, squid, white fish, boiled carrots and peas, boiled beef heart, binder such as gelatin, and I don't remember the rest, possibly nori and garlic, but it's quite a meticulous job and they do it with a food processor. To be honest I have no idea what difference it makes when using a food processor, it's possible that the crushed food has another type of function for the fish instead of the liquefied food, if I were to make a seafood porridge like that then I would use a blender to make the mixture easier and faster. The only fish with which I have tried this food and have not accepted it are the obligate coralivores (Chaetodon baronessa and Chaetodon capistratus), in addition to Singapore angelfish and Multibarred angel.
OP
OP
Out of curiosity, did you LFS list what's in the porridge? For what it's worth, in a lot of DIY mixes they simply mix up already prepped food. While this makes for improved convenience (feeding a single cube instead of a pinch and a half cube, and mixing Selcon, etc), it misses the mark on filling a void. In my case the void is nutrient dense, Whole Foods , emulating what these fish might eat in the wild, with ingredients that benefit both the vertebrates and invertebrates. I would caution you against the temptation.
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