2020/2/19
Since the job finally settled down last year, I decided to upgrade my 220L to a 500L SPS tank. It has already been running more than one month from the start-up, I would like to archive all future notes in this thread. Not sure how far I can go, but I want to share my thoughts and experience with you guys, as long as it works.
Today is the first note, it may be a little bit longer than others. Let’s start from the hardware and equipment.
Tank: Redsea Peninsula P500
Light: Orphek V4
Skimmer: Royal Exclusive D200
Powerheads: Vortech MP40+ Maxspect XF350
Pumps: Vectra M2
Chillers: Teco500
Auxiliary: Dosing pump, 20 Watt UV light, a small pump for UV and chiller in a series connection
Since the tank is placed in the living room, the peninsula model with 3 view surface is preferred. The reason to choose Redsea P500 is both aesthetics and availability. After more than one month running, two major issues I would like to share. First, the sump design might be a little bit disappointed. In original design, water come down from the main tank goes through filtration section, refugium chamber, skimming chamber and then return chamber. In this scenario, a skimmer placed after refugium section, and the water come and exit the skimming section both runs at the surface, these two points would largely reduce skimming efficiency and many residues leaving in both section due to insufficient water flow in the bottom. Second, the peninsula overflow is a little bit tricky than the ordinary overflow system. Since the overflow area is placed one side, the position to place powerhead requires to be more delicate. You have to balance between an appropriate water flow and avoid to generate a vortex at the returning nozzle. So, I redesign my sump as picture shown below, the water coming from overflow goes into skimming section in bottom and exit from the surface(with adjustable height), then travels across the refugium section, exits from the bottom, and finally comes into returning chamber back to main tank. In the refugium, I placed some macroalgae, live rocks, bio-media and a sponge to remove micro bubbles from the skimmer.
The light I choose is Orphek V4. The Orphek has a good reputation on commercial aquarium industry, and individual light bubble layout has a better performance than integrated LED layout for lighting mixing aspect. In my option, there are two points could be better. First, the weight of Orphek V4 is up 7.5kg( around 16 lb), which is too heavy to mounting, it might be better for hanging. Second, the spectrum provided by manufacture works perfectly for growth, but from the view coloring, Radion G4 may show a better performance. However, from cost saving perspective, it only needs one V4 for a 140gal tank for a full coverage, but the number will double if Radions applied.
The skimmer I choose is Royal Exclusive D200. I am quite satisfied with the overall performance, it works properly, quiet and energy saving. Only thing it might improve in future is the water outlet from the skimmer. Since the outlet could not be filled with water, it might cause a very slightly noise due to the air bubbles dropping into the water. It can be fixed by installed an auger silencer in the outlet tube, but it may cause an abnormal water level in the body, so it need more research to develop a better idea.
The powerheads are consist of a Vortech MP40 and a XF 350. I would like to share some personal though in flow make section. There is no doubt that an appropriate water flow play in an essential role in a reef tank. From my point of view, the overall flow system in a tank is made up by two parts, current and wave. Current, below the surface area, helps elevating residues, nutrition transportation and energy exchange. Wave, near the water surface, accelerates the water flow into the overflow area to start the filtration function. Based on this understanding, a Vortech MP 40 is placed on the far side to provide a diverse flow to speed up the water into overflow, and a XF350 is placed near overflow area is responsible to underneath water movement.
Pump I used is a Vectra M2. It is reliable, quite, and could be integrated with other Ecotech products in future. Recommended.
After a basic equipment introduction, I would like to share my experience for startup process. Instead of dry rocks, I utilize live rocks, which is cheaper and more easier to build up the system. Official starting date is Jan-10, fill with the water, open the light, start a new journey. My startup process is utilizing high output lighting remove excess nutrition by algae consumption. The water did not turn clear until Jan-17, and then a UV turned up and works immediately. Last weekend, a regular test was taken, NO2-0, NO3-0.5, PO4-0.003, PH-8.2, KH-11. Now, two tangs is put into the tank to remove algae. Right now, the biggest issue faced in front is many tiny little dusts moving in the tank, which I guess from the live rocks residues.
This is what happened within one month. So far so good, thanks for you reading , and feel free to leave any comments.
Since the job finally settled down last year, I decided to upgrade my 220L to a 500L SPS tank. It has already been running more than one month from the start-up, I would like to archive all future notes in this thread. Not sure how far I can go, but I want to share my thoughts and experience with you guys, as long as it works.
Today is the first note, it may be a little bit longer than others. Let’s start from the hardware and equipment.
Tank: Redsea Peninsula P500
Light: Orphek V4
Skimmer: Royal Exclusive D200
Powerheads: Vortech MP40+ Maxspect XF350
Pumps: Vectra M2
Chillers: Teco500
Auxiliary: Dosing pump, 20 Watt UV light, a small pump for UV and chiller in a series connection
Since the tank is placed in the living room, the peninsula model with 3 view surface is preferred. The reason to choose Redsea P500 is both aesthetics and availability. After more than one month running, two major issues I would like to share. First, the sump design might be a little bit disappointed. In original design, water come down from the main tank goes through filtration section, refugium chamber, skimming chamber and then return chamber. In this scenario, a skimmer placed after refugium section, and the water come and exit the skimming section both runs at the surface, these two points would largely reduce skimming efficiency and many residues leaving in both section due to insufficient water flow in the bottom. Second, the peninsula overflow is a little bit tricky than the ordinary overflow system. Since the overflow area is placed one side, the position to place powerhead requires to be more delicate. You have to balance between an appropriate water flow and avoid to generate a vortex at the returning nozzle. So, I redesign my sump as picture shown below, the water coming from overflow goes into skimming section in bottom and exit from the surface(with adjustable height), then travels across the refugium section, exits from the bottom, and finally comes into returning chamber back to main tank. In the refugium, I placed some macroalgae, live rocks, bio-media and a sponge to remove micro bubbles from the skimmer.
The light I choose is Orphek V4. The Orphek has a good reputation on commercial aquarium industry, and individual light bubble layout has a better performance than integrated LED layout for lighting mixing aspect. In my option, there are two points could be better. First, the weight of Orphek V4 is up 7.5kg( around 16 lb), which is too heavy to mounting, it might be better for hanging. Second, the spectrum provided by manufacture works perfectly for growth, but from the view coloring, Radion G4 may show a better performance. However, from cost saving perspective, it only needs one V4 for a 140gal tank for a full coverage, but the number will double if Radions applied.
The skimmer I choose is Royal Exclusive D200. I am quite satisfied with the overall performance, it works properly, quiet and energy saving. Only thing it might improve in future is the water outlet from the skimmer. Since the outlet could not be filled with water, it might cause a very slightly noise due to the air bubbles dropping into the water. It can be fixed by installed an auger silencer in the outlet tube, but it may cause an abnormal water level in the body, so it need more research to develop a better idea.
The powerheads are consist of a Vortech MP40 and a XF 350. I would like to share some personal though in flow make section. There is no doubt that an appropriate water flow play in an essential role in a reef tank. From my point of view, the overall flow system in a tank is made up by two parts, current and wave. Current, below the surface area, helps elevating residues, nutrition transportation and energy exchange. Wave, near the water surface, accelerates the water flow into the overflow area to start the filtration function. Based on this understanding, a Vortech MP 40 is placed on the far side to provide a diverse flow to speed up the water into overflow, and a XF350 is placed near overflow area is responsible to underneath water movement.
Pump I used is a Vectra M2. It is reliable, quite, and could be integrated with other Ecotech products in future. Recommended.
After a basic equipment introduction, I would like to share my experience for startup process. Instead of dry rocks, I utilize live rocks, which is cheaper and more easier to build up the system. Official starting date is Jan-10, fill with the water, open the light, start a new journey. My startup process is utilizing high output lighting remove excess nutrition by algae consumption. The water did not turn clear until Jan-17, and then a UV turned up and works immediately. Last weekend, a regular test was taken, NO2-0, NO3-0.5, PO4-0.003, PH-8.2, KH-11. Now, two tangs is put into the tank to remove algae. Right now, the biggest issue faced in front is many tiny little dusts moving in the tank, which I guess from the live rocks residues.
This is what happened within one month. So far so good, thanks for you reading , and feel free to leave any comments.
