My display tank has ick and so far one clown and the 2 tangs have it. The clownfish is also listing fin color a is developing brow stops on it any advice? The only medication I have is ParaGuard from seachem.
My display tank has ick and brown spots on my clownfish?
- Thread starter Yourlocalreefer
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Any pics of the tangs ? Very hard to see ich on a white clown. Also what is your ammonia-ph-nitrate and phos levels?
Im noticing a lot of empty snail shells suggesting theyve died off.
What test kits are you using?3
While Paraguard intent is to address parasites, its not the most true and effective medication and is therefore a gamble. Suggestion is to use either coppersafe or Copper Power at therapuetic level 2.25-2.5 monitored with a reliable copper test kit such as Hanna brand, not Api
Also monitor ammonia level with a reliable test kit during treatment and would not be a bad idea to add an air stone for added oxygen during treatment
You will also need to leave display tank FishLess (Fallow) for at least 6-8 weeks to assure the cysts and trophants have completed their life cycle without a host and have died off
THIS IS ALL PROVIDED THAT THIS IS ICH
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Paraguard is not likely to be any help.
The typical recommendation is to catch ALL fish (every fish, not just those showing symptoms) and put in a quarantine tank with copper at therapeutic levels (using Hannah high range copper test kit) for 30 days and turn the display tank up to 81/82 degrees and go without fish for 45-60 days (60 is better) so the parasite dies off. You can not cross contaminate any water. Do not put the tanks right next to each other.
The brown may be some sort of secondary bacterial infection setting in... it is hard to see ich on a white clownfish but I do see some raised bumps.
The typical recommendation is to catch ALL fish (every fish, not just those showing symptoms) and put in a quarantine tank with copper at therapeutic levels (using Hannah high range copper test kit) for 30 days and turn the display tank up to 81/82 degrees and go without fish for 45-60 days (60 is better) so the parasite dies off. You can not cross contaminate any water. Do not put the tanks right next to each other.
The brown may be some sort of secondary bacterial infection setting in... it is hard to see ich on a white clownfish but I do see some raised bumps.
OP
OP
My levels are all 0 except some and nitrate (5-10) phosphate (0.6). The shells were all empty when I got them (used for the hermits so they don’t mess with the living snails. I use API for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium. For the others I use Hanna test kits. The only tank I have spare is an empty 20 gallon should I set that up as a hospital tank for 7 weeks?
OP
OP
I’ll start setting a quarantine tank up all I have is a 20 gallon though I’m not sure if it’s big enough for all of them though.
With dead snails. I suspected possible chemistry issues. With the Zero reading often coinciding with Api false readings, I would suggest to take a water sample to a trusted LFS that DOES NOT use Api test kits and see ehat readings they come up with and to compare with yours
Paraguard looks to be a relative of formaldehyde. I agree with @vetteguy53081 that a copper containing medication - for all the fish in the tank - would be the best option.
OP
OP
I know one store that uses an expensive machine to I’ll try that one and there’s no dead snails or invertsall the shells are all empty when I got them
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