Leveling feet or shims on oak floors

[Paul.martin]

Hello,
I am currently planning a new build. I attached a picture of a mock up of my build. The tank will be a peninsula 60x36x24 (210 gallons, water weight 2500 lbs) steel stand (680lbs), canopy (120 lbs). With rocks, sand, equipment etc. I am estimating a total weight of around 4000lbs. This will be on oak floors.

My question: Should I purchase the option for leveling feet for the stand or should I use shims?

My concern with the leveling feet is too much weight at the leveling feet locations and damaging the floor. However, I like the thought of easier leveling and a space under the stand which will allow some airflow to dry the inevitable spills. Using shims seems like the weight will be distributed more evenly and therefore less likely to damage the floor, however little space under the stand for some airflow and harder to level. My builder (crystal dynamics) has the option for 4, 6, or 8 leveling feet.

My question: Should I purchase the option for leveling feet for the stand or should I use shims?

 

[HudsonReefer2.0]

I’d go w the feet with more then less to evenly distribute the weight across the stand

 

[Freenow54]

Hello,
I am currently planning a new build. I attached a picture of a mock up of my build. The tank will be a peninsula 60x36x24 (210 gallons, water weight 2500 lbs) steel stand (680lbs), canopy (120 lbs). With rocks, sand, equipment etc. I am estimating a total weight of around 4000lbs. This will be on oak floors.

My question: Should I purchase the option for leveling feet for the stand or should I use shims?

My concern with the leveling feet is too much weight at the leveling feet locations and damaging the floor. However, I like the thought of easier leveling and a space under the stand which will allow some airflow to dry the inevitable spills. Using shims seems like the weight will be distributed more evenly and therefore less likely to damage the floor, however little space under the stand for some airflow and harder to level. My builder (crystal dynamics) has the option for 4, 6, or 8 leveling feet.

My question: Should I purchase the option for leveling feet for the stand or should I use shims?

View attachment 2607682

Put A sheet of plywood on the floor. Then use feet

 

[Fishnut]

IMO Shims. The last tank that I had (90 gallon) with round leveling feet left indents in the wood flooring.

 

[Paul.martin]

Put A sheet of plywood on the floor. Then use feet

I have considered that, however, I am worried water from the inevitable spills will be trapped between the plywood and my hardwood floor.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Leveling feet every day of the week!

 

[HudsonReefer2.0]

I have considered that, however, I am worried water from the inevitable spills will be trapped between the plywood and my hardwood floor.

Then mayb a square of some polymer or pvc that the feet can rest on and help distribute the weight the single point source/pressure.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

As many leveling feet as you can place, with a high Durometer Rubber rubber sheet under each leveler. 3/8” thick minimum. You should have a local rubber supplier, check with them on what is best.

 

[Paul.martin]

Thanks Steve, it sounds like you have some experience with this issue. Should the rubber sheet be cut to the same circumference as the legs or should the rubber circumference be greater than the feet? I believe my stand builder has an 8 leg option.

 

[Freenow54]

I was thinking about this after. Where are you going to find feet to hold that weight?

 

[Soren]

I was thinking about this after. Where are you going to find feet to hold that weight?

I custom-fabricated mine for my stand for a double-stacked 125-gallon system from 5/8" bolts with a welded "washer" on the head to make the foot and welded nuts on face-plates on the bottom of each leg.

They have not yet been tested, but calculations show them to be far more than sufficient. The only thing I did not include that I might have is a jam nut to lock the feet once level (which should not matter much in a "static" use such as fish tank feet).

 

[Paul.martin]

It is an option from my tank/stand manufacturer crystal dynamics. They offer 8 legs as an option. I like the idea of hard thick rubber under each leg. What do you guys think? Will the rubber last many years? I plan on keeping this tank for at least 10 years.

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

Question is whats under the oak floor? Now that your parking an SUV in the house.

 

[Paul.martin]

Not much. I’m glad you asked. My plan is to dig out dirt for 4 concrete piers (20”X20” by 6-12” deep) to support 4x4’s holding up two new girders running perpendicular to the tank. Otherwise I will not have girders under my tank only joists running parallel.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

This is not my idea or my picture, but I've always thought it was a pretty good one, this is a picture from Google.

A seperate "tile floor" made as an aquarium rug basically with felt between the plywood and wood floors, the tile can catch the splashing and water if you make it in a big enough foot print, it can be elaborate, the one i saw for inspiration looked amazing like a seperate room floor, i would say this is more geared for rentals and non "permanent", so you can leave the place original.

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

Not much. I’m glad you asked. My plan is to dig out dirt for 4 concrete piers (20”X20” by 6-12” deep) to support 4x4’s holding up two new girders running perpendicular to the tank. Otherwise I will not have girders under my tank only joists running parallel.

Joists need to run perpendicular to tank and 4x4 are NFG Please research this and save yourself a really large catastrophe. I would pour four spread footings 2' x 2 x 1' add a few rebar and use heavy metal clips to hold 2 2x8 to support the joists.

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

2’x2’x1’ Concrete reinforced Spread footing with 4x4 pressure treated lumber in a galvanized column base. Top it off with two pressure treated 2”x8” connected to 4x4 with galvanized post caps to support the floor directly under long side of the stand front and back.





This is based off your statement
“Parallel to floor joists”
Perpendicular would be ideal.

 

[Paul.martin]

This is very helpful. Thanks Coinz.
1. The initial plan was to put a pier on the wet set and level. Do you think the galvanized column base is superior?
2. I was planning on using 8D nails to secure the 4x4. Do you agree?
3. I was planning on putting 4 pieces of #4 rebar in a square pattern (with tie wire) in the cement. Do you agree?

A few big obstacles: the crawl space clearance is 18 inches. The crawl space access is small and I may not have sufficient access to allow the length of 4x8’s needed in. I am thinking of possibly taking out a vent screen and sliding in the wood. However, if this is not feasible what would you do? Obviously I need length of the new girders to be at least the width of the tank (36”). Obviously I want more than 36”

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

Galvanized is extremely superior
galvanized deck screws (Screws will be easier in tight spot)
Build form, place on location. wet stick some horizontal rebar complete pour

 

[Coinzmans Reef]

One way