Leopard wrasse care

[MaverickFalcon4]

So I’m getting back into the hobby and I would like to know if it is easier to keep leopard wrasses in Singapore due to shorter shipping time to LFS and from what I read up, less disruption to their circadian rhythm?

I ordered a Waterbox 380.8 XL and plan to keep 4 of them all different species… no Halichores or any other type of wrasses in the tank.
( note this is an sps reef )

Stocking list:
2 Ocellaris Clownfish
4 yellow tangs
1 blue tang
1 naso tang
4 leopard wrasses ( of any species not picky here )
1 Tiger Watchman Goby
1 copperband butterfly
2 skin cleaner shrimp
1 tuxedo urchin
1 sand sifting sea star
Assorted snails ( about 10 )

Do let me know if there are any issues with the stocking… thanks for reading

 

[Slocke]

I would add them before the tangs and they obviously need sand. Jaw injuries are common and I would make sure you get no more then one male. Leopards are less likely to turn male around other male leopards then other species of wrasses but are also more likely to have cross species aggression.

That’s all I can think of

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

I would add them before the tangs and they obviously need sand. Jaw injuries are common and I would make sure you get no more then one male. Leopards are less likely to turn male around other male leopards then other species of wrasses but are also more likely to have cross species aggression.

That’s all I can think of

So is a leopard wrasse harem a better option? Also about what I asked about the shorter shipping time and disruption to their internal clock?

 

[danreef55]

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

Thanks

 

[Slocke]

So is a leopard wrasse harem a better option?

No, aggression between different species is still less likely then among species. This isn’t a big concern as they are not an aggressive fish but for best results avoid males to start. Females are prettier anyway

Also about what I asked about the shorter shipping time and disruption to their internal clock?

Definitely a plus for you. This is an issue here in the US. My only concern for you is that I have heard that collection in Indonesia has some questionable practices such as cyanide use that can cause delayed death. I don’t know about Singapore though.

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

No, aggression between different species is still less likely then among species. This isn’t a big concern as they are not an aggressive fish but for best results avoid males to start. Females are prettier anyway

Definitely a plus for you. This is an issue here in the US. My only concern for you is that I have heard that collection in Indonesia has some questionable practices such as cyanide use that can cause delayed death. I don’t know about Singapore though.

Ok thanks man. Btw I’m pretty sure that we are getting our fish from the same collectors, just that mine spends less time in transit. One more thing though, is it the same story for the Copperband? Being closer to the collection source will help significantly increase my chances for success?

 

[Slocke]

Ok thanks man. Btw I’m pretty sure that we are getting our fish from the same collectors, just that mine spends less time in transit. One more thing though, is it the same story for the Copperband? Closer to the collection source will help significantly in my chances?

It will certainly reduce stress and chance of travel injury. I believe the big issue with them is being picky and competing with other fish for food but I’m a wrasse guy not butterflies.

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

It will certainly reduce stress and chance of travel injury. I believe the big issue with them is being picky and competing with other fish for food but I’m a wrasse guy not butterflies.

Alright. So going back to leopard wrasses, will they eat Hikari Mysis? As there’s a lot of conflicting information out there.

 

[Tamberav]

Leopard wrasses are pretty easy to care for once established and easy to get eating IMO. Yes, they eat mysis, they pretty much end up eating anything once they start. The copperband is way more finicky to get eating a variety.

Main thing is to not get a skinny one with a pinched head or damaged mouth or anything like that.

Prone to flukes and perhaps internal parasites. Don't do well with quarantine or shipping which probably has more to do with why people fail.

Guessing you don't have LRS fish frenzy but if you can make something like it, they really go nuts for it, even the Anampses wrasses.

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

Leopard wrasses are pretty easy to care for once established and easy to get eating IMO. Yes, they eat mysis, they pretty much end up eating anything once they start. The copperband is way more finicky to get eating a variety.

Main thing is to not get a skinny one with a pinched head or damaged mouth or anything like that.

Prone to flukes and perhaps internal parasites. Don't do well with quarantine or shipping which probably has more to do with why people fail.

Guessing you don't have LRS fish frenzy but if you can make something like it, they really go nuts for it, even the Anampses wrasses.

So you’re saying that a copperband is more likely to eat LRS reef frenzy? Also LRS reef frenzy available here. The only issue is portioning. As in it’s hard to get even portions from a whole block without thawing it?

 

[Tamberav]

So you’re saying that a copperband is more likely to eat LRS reef frenzy? Also I have LRS available here…

Masstick, LRS reef frenzy, and live brine, live worms would all be on my list to have on hand for the copperband and wrasses.

In the states... the blue star leopard, regular leopard, and ornate are easier than the black or kuiters, blue spot, etc.

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

Masstick, LRS reef frenzy, and live brine, live worms would all be on my list to have on hand for the copperband and wrasses.

In the states... the blue star leopard, regular leopard, and ornate are easier than the black or kuiters, blue spot, etc.

All those food you mentioned above are available here so it’s not an issue.

As for the species, thanks for the recommendations. ( note I’m not picky on species )

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

Leopard wrasses are pretty easy to care for once established and easy to get eating IMO. Yes, they eat mysis, they pretty much end up eating anything once they start. The copperband is way more finicky to get eating a variety.

Main thing is to not get a skinny one with a pinched head or damaged mouth or anything like that.

Prone to flukes and perhaps internal parasites. Don't do well with quarantine or shipping which probably has more to do with why people fail.

Guessing you don't have LRS fish frenzy but if you can make something like it, they really go nuts for it, even the Anampses wrasses.

So qt the CBB alone and “throw everything including the kitchen sink” at the copperband to get it to eat?

 

[Tamberav]

I did find the kuiters and moyers to be more aggressive than the others. The black seems to also have a smaller adult size than the others.

a haram works too, can start with females + male or all females and let one change.

multiple males may fight

 

[Tamberav]

So qt the CBB alone and “throw everything including the kitchen sink” at the copperband to get it to eat?

You can QT them together or alone, don't think it matters.

Sometimes CBB will eat right away but more often it is a struggle, live clams are also another good food to try.

It is best to be prepared, fish should have a varied diet so you will use it all up anyways.

 

[Slocke]

Alright. So going back to leopard wrasses, will they eat Hikari Mysis? As there’s a lot of conflicting information out there.

Yeah
Most of mines diet

 

[i cant think]

So I’m getting back into the hobby and I would like to know if it is easier to keep leopard wrasses in Singapore due to shorter shipping time to LFS and from what I read up, less disruption to their circadian rhythm?

I ordered a Waterbox 380.8 XL and plan to keep 4 of them all different species… no Halichores or any other type of wrasses in the tank.
( note this is an sps reef )

Stocking list:
2 Ocellaris Clownfish
4 yellow tangs
1 blue tang
1 naso tang
4 leopard wrasses ( of any species not picky here )
1 Tiger Watchman Goby
1 copperband butterfly
2 skin cleaner shrimp
1 tuxedo urchin
1 sand sifting sea star
Assorted snails ( about 10 )

Do let me know if there are any issues with the stocking… thanks for reading

1. I wouldn’t do that many tangs with 4 leopards, these guys are shy and aggression can become detrimental to these guys.
I haven’t had a ton of Leopards, I’m currently at 2; Vivians and Meleagris however, I have had more short term success with other sensitive species (one being Pseudojuloides). Best way I’ve found to succeed with these species is through adding them prior to any larger, more aggressive species.

What I’ll say, Cyanide is almost certainly still in use. I have lost a few nice wrasses to it, one being a Roseafascia. This likely means that Leopards in the Philippines could undergo Cyanide. If that is the case, I recommend watching them in the LFS for a couple months. If you see them acting normal even 1-2 months later, I’d say you’re safe.

2. A harem is more successful with Leopards however it’s not recommended until you know the signs of transition. Just because something is unlikely doesn’t always mean it won’t.

Also, do you plan to add all 4 at the same time? If so, you can ignore this next part

Basically, as mentioned, some species are more aggressive (or as I say, boisterous) than others. If you don’t add them all at once I recommend getting peaceful species first. For example, here’s the 4 leopard wrasses I’ve had and the order I would’ve (I kept 2 in my main wrasse tank and 2 in my nano) introduced them based on how boisterous each one is;
1. Blue Star (M. bipartitus)
2. Vivian’s (M. viviennae) - if I did a Harem I would do a group of these guys
3. Meleagris (M. meleagris)
4. Kuiter’s (M. kuiteri)
Now, if the Blue star was the M. marisrubri I would’ve introduced that after my M. meleagris.
But without knowing what 4 you’d go for, we can’t quite say what order to introduce them in.

3. Feeding these guys is now easier than it was. It used to be that M. bipartitus was easiest and then M. meleagris was slightly more difficult. This still exists to some extent with M. choati being just below A. femininus in care for many. Foods that work on almost every species include;
Masstick
Blood worm - with any finicky fish I will implement this into their diet and it tends to work, especially on butterflies and wrasses
Mysis/Brine - this is often the last thing I will try, usually just after feeding bloodworm but sometimes I get lucky and they feed on this straight away.

But, the best way I’ve found for getting fish to feed is doing a huge batch of frozen.
For example, here’s what I had in my first mix of frozen food, I’ve been doing it for almost a year now and my fish have never been fatter or healthier.

Hope this helps even just a bit!

 

[MaverickFalcon4]

I wouldn’t do that many tangs with 4 leopards, these guys are shy and aggression can become detrimental to these guys.
I haven’t had a ton of Leopards, I’m currently at 2; Vivians and Meleagris however, I have had more short term success with other sensitive species (one being Pseudojuloides). Best way I’ve found to succeed with these species is through adding them prior to any larger, more aggressive species.

should I just go with halicoeres wrasses instead? Due to the tangs? Cause the original idea was just 4 halicoeres wrasses any species. ( I love all of them so I can’t decide )

 

[i cant think]

should I just go with halicoeres wrasses instead? Due to the tangs? Cause the original idea was just 4 halicoeres wrasses any species. ( I love all of them so I can’t decide )

Why not go for a mix of all species, not just Halichoeres or all Macropharyngodon.

Or do what I did, a wrasse tank!