LED adventure

[gwhook]

[FONT=&quot]Well as many of you know I have been working on trying to replace some of the 25 watt white LEDs in my JBJ pro light with Royal blue LEDs. We after watching a couple of utube videos showing how to re flow the LEDs using a stove eye I set out to complete this task. I have to say using the stove was a great way to remove and replace the LEDs. All went as planned. Old LEDs were removed in working condition and the new ones were put in place with ease. Now that ten of the 25 LEDs are royal blue I officially have a smurf tank LOL. Much easier than I thought it would be. [/FONT]

 

[Wildman]

Good job. Is it the look you were going for?

 

[gwhook]

Good job. Is it the look you were going for?

Well it is a little blue. As the day passed I think I am getting over the shock. I have never been big on tanks with so much blue they look like black light posters LOL. This tank is next to my 150 MH 14 K and side by side I can see the difference. The MH looks white. The tank is not a blue as some I have seen.

 

[Wildman]

You could always go back with a couple or swap a couple for a warm or cool white depending on how much you want to lighten it up.

 

[gwhook]

Picture with new blue LEds added.

 

[gwhook]

A slightly better picture LOL.

 

[Rob.D]

Good looking pics Gary!

 

[Mr. D]

It doesn't look that blue in the pics. Do you have any number of whites left? Looks good to me!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

 

[gwhook]

If you mean do I have any of the white LEDs I removed left. I do have 8 of the white ones. I plan on keeping a couple of them. If anyone needed the 5-6 left they are welcome to them.

 

[gwhook]

Good looking pics Gary!

Thanks Rob.

 

[CoryC]

zoas like that higher Kelvin gary! We will make a believer out of you yet.

 

[gwhook]

lol all I have read says 10 k is the best for growing zoas. The blue/actinic is for color viewing. and 20 k is suggested the best for this. PAR levels are also a great facter in growth rate. I think the blue is more for the veiwer not the zoa.

zoas like that higher Kelvin gary! We will make a believer out of you yet.

 

[CoryC]

10k light is still fairly blue. While you can get marginally better growth at lower Kelvins, nuisance algae growth can be rampant and coral color is diminished. a midrange 14k-16k is going to give you the best(via Sanjay Joshi) combo of growth and color.

 

[cee]

10k light is still fairly blue. While you can get marginally better growth at lower Kelvins, nuisance algae growth can be rampant and coral color is diminished. a midrange 14k-16k is going to give you the best(via Sanjay Joshi) combo of growth and color.

I've known many SPS reefers who use the Ushio 6500 or 10k and get excellent color and amazing growth with no nuisance algae. Some major etailers do so as well. LPS and zoas perhaps not so much. I personally like the 10k to 12k range.

On a different note, I'm surprised you could get the correct temperature cycle with a standard oven to reflow and not damage the parts and/or packages/insulation. Gonna have to look into that.

Dave

 

[gwhook]

I watched a utube video that kinda gave me an idea of how to do it. I was able to put the stove eye on med and waited till it went red then turned its self off. Then I place the board on the eye. In just a couple of seconds the LEDs moved and I could lift them off. You then put the board on a stone bakers disk. This cools it down quickly. I put the LEDs on the cold board and placed it back on the eye and the LEDs re soldered back into place. All I can say is when I connected them back to power they worked.