Man, I love it. Joe has been wanting me to run my returns out of the return/drain box break a tooth and slide the return through so that it break the siphon. But man, I think you figured this out. I am going to share this with Joe in the AM. I'll be in touch, thank you so much. This is going to be a fun build. I really appreciate you.
Large (for me) tank build - Need some help with flow
- Thread starter WhatCouldGoWrong71
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Reign1
Well-Known Member
Awesome design for CL. VCA makes a great product. I wish I would have incorporated more of them into my build.OK - here's what I'm thinking. its pretty ambitions, but, I think its possible to do this without powerhead, or at least with very minimal additional flow
The closed loop will utilize both 1in and 3/4in RFGs with 4 man outlets. Since you'll be using the Abyzz A400 as your Closed Loop pump, you will have plenty of flow to drive this many RFGs
here's the overview - starting from the end of the tank to the back wall
Outlet at the end of the tank will be a manifold with 4, 3/4in RFGs on stand pipe that you can be set at various heights.
The two in the middle and on the back wall will act as drivers to push flow down the length of the tank, with the 4 at the breaking up the forward flow. This will create a nice and strong, randomzied undertow that will draw its way back to the drain on the back wall.
The return lines from the sump will flank the overflow and have 1in RFGs - one on each side the the overflow.
Obviously, run this past your tank builder and make sure the bulkheads positions and sizes will work.
What do you think?
Thanks. Joe suggested a minor tweak, which I agreed with. I also emailed @Tidal Gardens (Thanks guys for such a quick response) and asked them what they do with the sizing of their bulkheads for the closed loops and how they hand the returns on their CL's with their Abyzz pumps.
1) I need a coast to coast weir, so we will knock a couple teeth out on both sides and run the lock line through/over the weir (also causing a break in the siphon) and then into position where Antonio has them indicated.
2) Bottom return CL bulkheads will both be 1.5", will reduce the one down on the wet side of the BH.
3) The drain for the CL will be 2" to match the inlet of the Abyzz.
4) In the notched weir box (name?) since you won't see any of this plumbing from "displaying sides" we are offsetting the holes in the box so that the plumbing on the short side doesn't run into any of the other. There are 3 additional holes on the short side plus the 5 holes in the box. So that 8 lines being plumbed on that short side.
I think @Vivid Creative Aquatics did a freaking incredible job on this design. And, simply by seeing my post. What an amazing company. Looking forward to this.
Glad I could help out on your build. it is going to be an amazing setup.
Here is the first draft of the new configuration. Closed loop needs work, easy fixes. The stand will stay the same from the original configuration. Only closed loop will be below in the larger of the two sections. The shallow section will face the kitchen and be used for storage. The front and left side will face kitchen while the left side will be viewable from the fish room.
Not sure if that worked:
coreytrv
Community Member
Looking at adding some random flow generators to a tall tank (72" tall), to be setup for primarily SPS.
I'd like to use an Abyzz A400 which has 4,800-6,060 GPH.
Random Flow nozzles top out at 900 per dual.
Plumbing will be dropped into the tank from above.
It's a peninsula tank, visible from 3 sides, (except the back).
I can do no more than (2)- 1-1/4" return lines into the tank.
I can stub to 3/4" loc line and Y for a total (4) VCA heads.
Or I guess I could Y and Y again for more?
What happens if I exceed suggested optimal flow?
Should I be using loc line ball valves here, or just add more nozzles?
How should I configure? Any assistance is appreciated, @Vivid Creative Aquatics .
Tank sketch here:
I'd like to use an Abyzz A400 which has 4,800-6,060 GPH.
Random Flow nozzles top out at 900 per dual.
Plumbing will be dropped into the tank from above.
It's a peninsula tank, visible from 3 sides, (except the back).
I can do no more than (2)- 1-1/4" return lines into the tank.
I can stub to 3/4" loc line and Y for a total (4) VCA heads.
Or I guess I could Y and Y again for more?
What happens if I exceed suggested optimal flow?
Should I be using loc line ball valves here, or just add more nozzles?
How should I configure? Any assistance is appreciated, @Vivid Creative Aquatics .
Tank sketch here:
I think this would definitely be doable - and given your pump of choice, plenty of flow to do all kinds of things.Looking at adding some random flow generators to a tall tank (72" tall), to be setup for primarily SPS.
I'd like to use an Abyzz A400 which has 4,800-6,060 GPH.
Random Flow nozzles top out at 900 per dual.
Plumbing will be dropped into the tank from above.
It's a peninsula tank, visible from 3 sides, (except the back).
I can do no more than (2)- 1-1/4" return lines into the tank.
I can stub to 3/4" loc line and Y for a total (4) VCA heads.
Or I guess I could Y and Y again for more?
What happens if I exceed suggested optimal flow?
Should I be using loc line ball valves here, or just add more nozzles?
How should I configure? Any assistance is appreciated, @Vivid Creative Aquatics .
Tank sketch here:
Start a new thread (so we don't interfere with @WhatCouldGoWrong71's build thread ) and tag me in it, and I'll be happy to figure out how best to deploy RFGs in this very unique setup.
I am watching this one very very carefully, making a few tweaks to my "plan-on-paper".OK - here's what I'm thinking. its pretty ambitions, but, I think its possible to do this without powerhead, or at least with very minimal additional flow
here's the overview - starting from the end of the tank to the back wall
Outlet at the end of the tank will be a manifold with 4, 3/4in RFGs on stand pipe that you can be set at various heights.
The two in the middle and on the back wall will act as drivers to push flow down the length of the tank, with the 4 at the breaking up the forward flow. This will create a nice and strong, randomzied undertow that will draw its way back to the drain on the back wall.
The return lines from the sump will flank the overflow and have 1in RFGs - one on each side the the overflow.
Obviously, run this past your tank builder and make sure the bulkheads positions and sizes will work.
What do you think?
@WhatCouldGoWrong71 - wow, this looks nearly identical to my drawings (60Lx36Wx26H). And yes, GC is builder I am leaning toward. Abyzz A400 is on my list as I am pumping from basement up to 1st floor. Can't have any pumps or obnoxious tank noises in the Display Tank (DT) space. I've measured, re-measured, and re-measured the climb from the basement up to the 1st floor. Short of considering buying Panta Rhei Hydrotube 63 - Abyzz should handle the head/friction loss. Your work is a great confirmation that I am headed in the right direction! Thanks.Not sure if that worked:
Question: Is the stand drawn above, is that coming from GC also?
How is your build going? I have a very similar peninsula build with closed loops coming from Joe as well. My rank is complete just waiting for me to have it shipped. I went with dual loops each powered by a Vectra L2. I have 1.5” RFG’s planned for them but I may change to multiple smaller RFGs on each return like you are doing if I don’t like how they work out.Not sure if that worked:
I’m going to finally start a build thread this weekend. I’ve made some additional changes, in other words, I’m driving people bat poop cray cray.
First, I’ve gone from one closed loop to 3. The Abyzz 400 still will drive the main clip underneath. However, the 2 - 1” returns next 2” closed loop feed you see above will eventually (before the tank is wet) be drilled to 1.5”. This change was too late in production, this idea I had was too late. What I am doing is adding 4 returns, one to each corner, with 2 corners being fed by 1 L2. Each of these loops will also have UV, making the UV super effective. Each of the corners will be fed through sea swirls, what’s old is new here. There will be another L2 in the sump to return the water from the display.
As for lighting, here too what’s old is new, plus what’s new is hip. And, what F… I‘lol have 8 XR30s T5s and 3 Metal Halide fixtures. In total there is 16 feet of T5s, if this idea with the halides fails, I plan to add additional T5s down the center for an additional 8 foot. Since it’s my build, I can do whatever my little heart desires, regardless how much of a poop show this turns out, I’ll sit back and laugh with you guys, lol. So, I with a 25” deep tank, I’m going to suspend the LEDs higher to take advantage of the halides. I purchased the narrow high intensity lens kits for all the XR30s. Thus, since I am being the spread in, I should be able to raise the height no problem. My thoughts are to blast the tank with full spectrum and 10k MH for 6 hours then no halides and let the XR30 shift to blue and give the corals a rest. At least that’s my thought.
I have other updates as well. But more on those later. However, tank should be less then 2 weeks from ready. GEO is crafting my sump (72x24x15) plus ATO chamber.
I want to use actuators on my lighting rack, but I am way out in front of my skis on that one.
I spent two weeks slowly moving my tank into a temporary holding tank. I bet it’s 2 months before I get everything in the new tank. I’m shocked at how much coralline is already growing everywhere in the stock tank.
I ordered 250 pounds of TBS sand and 150 more pounds on TBS rock.
It’s getting closer…
Oh, the tank will have its own battery backup system that buys me about a day to decide if I need to wheel the old girl out and start her up. More batteries on their way…
First, I’ve gone from one closed loop to 3. The Abyzz 400 still will drive the main clip underneath. However, the 2 - 1” returns next 2” closed loop feed you see above will eventually (before the tank is wet) be drilled to 1.5”. This change was too late in production, this idea I had was too late. What I am doing is adding 4 returns, one to each corner, with 2 corners being fed by 1 L2. Each of these loops will also have UV, making the UV super effective. Each of the corners will be fed through sea swirls, what’s old is new here. There will be another L2 in the sump to return the water from the display.
As for lighting, here too what’s old is new, plus what’s new is hip. And, what F… I‘lol have 8 XR30s T5s and 3 Metal Halide fixtures. In total there is 16 feet of T5s, if this idea with the halides fails, I plan to add additional T5s down the center for an additional 8 foot. Since it’s my build, I can do whatever my little heart desires, regardless how much of a poop show this turns out, I’ll sit back and laugh with you guys, lol. So, I with a 25” deep tank, I’m going to suspend the LEDs higher to take advantage of the halides. I purchased the narrow high intensity lens kits for all the XR30s. Thus, since I am being the spread in, I should be able to raise the height no problem. My thoughts are to blast the tank with full spectrum and 10k MH for 6 hours then no halides and let the XR30 shift to blue and give the corals a rest. At least that’s my thought.
I have other updates as well. But more on those later. However, tank should be less then 2 weeks from ready. GEO is crafting my sump (72x24x15) plus ATO chamber.
I want to use actuators on my lighting rack, but I am way out in front of my skis on that one.
I spent two weeks slowly moving my tank into a temporary holding tank. I bet it’s 2 months before I get everything in the new tank. I’m shocked at how much coralline is already growing everywhere in the stock tank.
I ordered 250 pounds of TBS sand and 150 more pounds on TBS rock.
It’s getting closer…
Oh, the tank will have its own battery backup system that buys me about a day to decide if I need to wheel the old girl out and start her up. More batteries on their way…
Attachments
Yes, GC did both tank and stand. I found a brand new Reeflo Hybrid that I ALMOST put under the stand. After chatting with Sanjay and reading a post by BeanAnimal, I’m simply going to add that as a second pump in my mixing station. I now have 2 300 gallon containers and could use the extra goes power.
I highly recommend Hayward, if you are going closed loop. Their EPMD gaskets and HUGE size are key. Tidal uses them exclusively. Also, if you go to my Insta and watch this, these are what I used. They aren’t cheap though.
TheDryReef on Insta
@WhatCouldGoWrong71 - Jake Adams article/video and Than at Tidal Gardens are my go-to references for building a CLS. Thumbs up on the Hayward fittings! A little premium investment will go a long way.
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