Is this the right plumbing for 40 breeder?

[ruxsir]

Setting up a DIY 40 breeder for soft corals.

Looking at the plumbing parts needed from BRS and PVC fittings online.

Using an Eshopps eclipse small and a single 3/4" return.

BRS doesn't have the 3/4" thread slip bulkhead in stock for the return to use the locline.

Is there anything I am missing? Want to achieve a similar plumbing plan like this video. ()

 

[TX_REEF]

I'd do a rough sketch of your plumbing plan to make sure you have the appropriate amount of PVC and fittings (the worst feeling when you realize you don't have enough and have to pause), otherwise this is a pretty straightforward exercise. I DIY'ed plumbing on my frag tank build if you want to check that out, it's step-by-step more or less.

I see how have a ball valve in your shopping cart - strongly recommend using a gate valve for your drain, and don't use any valve for your pump. Just use a DC pump so you can control output that way.

You also really do not need schedule 80 pipe or fittings if you can find properly sized schedule 40; schedule 80 is really only necessary for very large and/or closed loop systems with lots of pressure.

Do you have a diamond hole saw drill bit already?

Finally, make sure you have PVC cement and primer, as well as a PVC pipe cutter and some sandpaper to smooth the edges after cutting.

PVC pipe cutter, I use this myself works great: https://amzn.to/4bjTIDC
cement & primer: https://amzn.to/49VEu6A

 

[ruxsir]

I'd do a rough sketch of your plumbing plan to make sure you have the appropriate amount of PVC and fittings (the worst feeling when you realize you don't have enough and have to pause), otherwise this is a pretty straightforward exercise. I DIY'ed plumbing on my frag tank build if you want to check that out, it's step-by-step more or less.

I see how have a ball valve in your shopping cart - strongly recommend using a gate valve for your drain, and don't use any valve for your pump. Just use a DC pump so you can control output that way.

You also really do not need schedule 80 pipe or fittings if you can find properly sized schedule 40; schedule 80 is really only necessary for very large and/or closed loop systems with lots of pressure.

Do you have a diamond hole saw drill bit already?

Finally, make sure you have PVC cement and primer, as well as a PVC pipe cutter and some sandpaper to smooth the edges after cutting.

PVC pipe cutter, I use this myself works great: https://amzn.to/4bjTIDC
cement & primer: https://amzn.to/49VEu6A

Is a gate valve worth the extra expense over the ball valve?

I really like the look of the schedule 80. I know there is colored schedule 40 PVC but I was having a hard time finding unions that would match.

Yes, I have a drill bit, pvc pipe cutter and cement and primer.

Thanks, I’ll check out your thread.

 

[TX_REEF]

Is a gate valve worth the extra expense over the ball valve?

I really like the look of the schedule 80. I know there is colored schedule 40 PVC but I was having a hard time finding unions that would match.

Yes, I have a drill bit, pvc pipe cutter and cement and primer.

Thanks, I’ll check out your thread.

Yes, gate valve is 100% worth it. It is physically easier to manipulate the valve, and also easier to make more precise small adjustments to the drain flow rate to ensure a flawless match to your return pump output.

 

[ruxsir]

Yes, gate valve is 100% worth it. It is physically easier to manipulate the valve, and also easier to make more precise small adjustments to the drain flow rate to ensure a flawless match to your return pump output.

Ok, cool. I’m going to go with a DC pump as well. So no valve needed on the return then?

 

[TX_REEF]

Ok, cool. I’m going to go with a DC pump as well. So no valve needed on the return then?

correct, the DC pump will/should come with a controller so a valve is useless and just creates another potential point of leak/failure and stresses the pump. Have you chosen a pump yet? If not, can heartily recommend the Reefbreeders Nautilus line of pumps, excellent value for $.

 

[ruxsir]

correct, the DC pump will/should come with a controller so a valve is useless and just creates another potential point of leak/failure and stresses the pump. Have you chosen a pump yet? If not, can heartily recommend the Reefbreeders Nautilus line of pumps, excellent value for $.

I have not, I was leaning towards Sicce. Jebao also a thought. Haven’t looked at the reefbreeders brand, will have to check it out.

 

[ruxsir]

This is the plumbing I came up with.

Everything glued together. Unions not completely tightened down just yet.

Will do a leak test soon. Need to silicone the sump baffles.

Hoping there are no leaks. Slightly concerned about the overflow box because there is a gap due to the gaskets on the interior and exterior. Assuming that is normal.

 

[ruxsir]

correct, the DC pump will/should come with a controller so a valve is useless and just creates another potential point of leak/failure and stresses the pump. Have you chosen a pump yet? If not, can heartily recommend the Reefbreeders Nautilus line of pumps, excellent value for $.

Here is the leak test I just did. I have two small leaks in the video. One doesn’t concern me as it is in the sump (first one). The second one is a small leak from the overflow box. Now I tightened the bulkhead as tight as I could. Was quite difficult getting my hand inside the overflow box. Should I use a wrench a tighten it slightly more to see if that fixes the leak?

 

[TX_REEF]

Here is the leak test I just did. I have two small leaks in the video. One doesn’t concern me as it is in the sump (first one). The second one is a small leak from the overflow box. Now I tightened the bulkhead as tight as I could. Was quite difficult getting my hand inside the overflow box. Should I use a wrench a tighten it slightly more to see if that fixes the leak?

you do NOT want to have to use a wrench to tighten the bulkhead on the overflow box - that risks cracking/shattering the glass which would obviously be catastrophic for your build. What I did was add a gasket between the overflow box and the external glass, this solved the small leak.

 

[ruxsir]

you do NOT want to have to use a wrench to tighten the bulkhead on the overflow box - that risks cracking/shattering the glass which would obviously be catastrophic for your build. What I did was add a gasket between the overflow box and the external glass, this solved the small leak.

Ok, got it. I have a gasket between the internal box and glass and a gasket between the external box and glass. Still getting that small leak. Could it potentially be if there is a small chip in the hole in the glass or is that irrelevant?