Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I'm glad that you learnt from this threadThis came a long at a great time for me as I’m about to start my tank. I plan on using mostly dry rock but want to supplement it was some ocean rock. I plan on adding pods early on and the first signs of algae start adding my Cuc to not let it get established. Although after reading the post by @Reef By Steele I may start them a little earlier and feed with algae tabs.
What are peoples thoughts about keeping the lights off in the tank for awhile but running a light and cheato in the sump for awhile to use that to get established and outcompete the uglies?
You'll want some N and P available. This sounds like it might lead to those two parameters bottoming out if not monitored carefullyThis came a long at a great time for me as I’m about to start my tank. I plan on using mostly dry rock but want to supplement it was some ocean rock. I plan on adding pods early on and the first signs of algae start adding my Cuc to not let it get established. Although after reading the post by @Reef By Steele I may start them a little earlier and feed with algae tabs.
What are peoples thoughts about keeping the lights off in the tank for awhile but running a light and cheato in the sump for awhile to use that to get established and outcompete the uglies?
I want all that algae to growWhat are peoples thoughts about keeping the lights off in the tank for awhile but running a light
Whether you use live or dry rock, you'll get hitchhikers. Whether you use live or dry rock, you'll get an ugly phase. It's inevitable. People swear by LR like it's the ugly cure all but then go on to get GHA, dinos and all that good stuff. Yes, ocean LR often has the beneficial, desirable stuff all over its surface but nuisance algae will still find a way. There's no way to end it early or speed it up. Build husbandry habits, stay consistent with testing and WCs, hire a good CUC and most importantly react and respond calmly. Don't nuke your tank with chemicalsHi I'm going through the ugly stage now and my tank has 2 clowns and no corals (yet). Is there a way to end the ugly stage early or speed it up
That was my thought about growing cheato in the sump, easier removal compared to scrubbing algae off the rocks in the display.I want all that algae to grow
It's being exported to the trash anyway
The more the better, grow it out, then get it out
Additionally, I get a headstart on growing coralline
When I cure live rock in a Brute, of I don't cure it in the tank. There will be a light on it
I don't understand the rationale for not having a light on at this time of a system's maturation
That’s a good point, hadn’t thought about that.You'll want some N and P available. This sounds like it might lead to those two parameters bottoming out if not monitored carefully
I have noticed that by simply having something encrusted with coralline in the tank and with your phosphates and nitrates somewhat in check you will start to see it pop up. I started 2 90 gallon frag tanks about a year ago, i added frags with some coralline and about 10lbs of rock from an established tank. Racks were spotted with pink within the first 2 months. In my humble opinion, it is most important to jump start the bacterial population and general micro bio diversity. Bacteria in a bottle works mostly short term, marine denitrifying bacteria is essential to a healthy nice looking system.What should I do to get coralline algae grow faster?
I think having an algae scrubber during the first year did help to outcompete the uglies. I have never done a black out but I am not against it. Things to consider, silicate levels. New tanks often have sand with high silicate levels and dry new rock leaching phosphates for months at least. I like using clean live phyto, bit of gfo and other types of media can help with the reduction of ugly stage boostersThis came a long at a great time for me as I’m about to start my tank. I plan on using mostly dry rock but want to supplement it was some ocean rock. I plan on adding pods early on and the first signs of algae start adding my Cuc to not let it get established. Although after reading the post by @Reef By Steele I may start them a little earlier and feed with algae tabs.
What are peoples thoughts about keeping the lights off in the tank for awhile but running a light and cheato in the sump for awhile to use that to get established and outcompete the uglies?
I think it may be more likely you haven’t reached the ugly stage yet my friend.You could try using one of the bottle bacteria products that are out there. I just set up a new 160 gallon system. I used 100 pounds of live sand and 2 bottles of the API rapid start . Threw some food pellets in to feed the bacteria and waited just a couple days and started adding fish. My ugly stage literally lasted only a couple days . All fish are doing great a month later.
U have to take a straw, paper if ya got one, put it in the tank and…Blow some Bubbles!!! All about the gas x change. Keep us posted on the results.Hi I'm going through the ugly stage now and my tank has 2 clowns and no corals (yet). Is there a way to end the ugly stage early or speed it up
corraline in a bottle worked for me, i have corraline everywhere now. but it took a few months. but the poster above that said adding pods and phyto, is right they eat diatoms and speed you up out of ugly stage. also reduced light, or reduced white light especially, really slows the uglies down.Will coralline algae help ?
But medicines have pretty much solved that oneI see these threads and I think puberty and pimples. Is it just me
How would dead phyto help any? At that point it’s just more stuff to break down into nutrients as opposed to taking up nutrients like live phyto does.As for ending the ugly stage quickly…Add copepods and dose phyto daily. Doesn’t have to be alive.
id have to agree that dead phyto is not as beneficial. dead phyto's only purpose is to feed corals and organisms. my best guess is he meant for copepod food. so they could eat it. but it also adds nutrients which makes problem worse. live phyto however will absorb nutrients and feed copepods both. live is definitely the way to go.How would dead phyto help any? At that point it’s just more stuff to break down into nutrients as opposed to taking up nutrients like live phyto does.