Is something wrong with my clownfish?

[smalltownuser]

I have had two clownfish for about 2 weeks now. Everything has seemed fine and they seem to get along together for the most part. I came home today and I noticed that one of them has a cloudy texture on one of its sides. I have noticed that the other one which doesn't have any spots seems to try to bully the one with the white spots which is also making me think something may be wrong because I've heard that fish will bully sick fish. The tank is always kept at 80°. I feed them once in the morning and once in the evening. Pictures below but it's hard to get a good one with them moving all the time.

 

[smalltownuser]

I have had two clownfish for about 2 weeks now. Everything has seemed fine and they seem to get along together for the most part. I came home today and I noticed that one of them has a cloudy texture on one of its sides. I have noticed that the other one which doesn't have any spots seems to try to bully the one with the white spots which is also making me think something may be wrong because I've heard that fish will bully sick fish. The tank is always kept at 80°. I feed them once in the morning and once in the evening. I have pictures but can't figure out how to upload on this. It wants a URL link but it's just a picture. It's not from a website so I don't know how to put pictures on here.

 

[Fish Styx]

I have had two clownfish for about 2 weeks now. Everything has seemed fine and they seem to get along together for the most part. I came home today and I noticed that one of them has a cloudy texture on one of its sides. I have noticed that the other one which doesn't have any spots seems to try to bully the one with the white spots which is also making me think something may be wrong because I've heard that fish will bully sick fish. The tank is always kept at 80°. I feed them once in the morning and once in the evening. I have pictures but can't figure out how to upload on this. It wants a URL link but it's just a picture. It's not from a website so I don't know how to put pictures on here.

What you are describing can be any number of things. Pictures under white lighting would be necessary to make an ID. A short video of the fish's breathing would also be helpful. Is there anything else you can tell us about breathing, poop, eating habits, etc? When you reply ro the message, you will see an "attach files" option. Upload there.

 

[Fish Styx]

Okay, I see the pics. Looks like Brooklynella. You'll need to set up a QT tank. Give the fish a formalin bath for roughly 45 minutes, and then put them into QT. Treat with metronidazole for 14 days, and run your DT fallow for 6 weeks.

 

[smalltownuser]

Here's a video. Hard to get a good one with them moving so much, and I don't have any lighting yet, waiting for the full cycle to add tangs and crabs before lighting. They're swimming hasn't changed since the day I brought them home. I have also noticed that the same fish also leans slightly to the side which you can sort of see in the video. It eats very excitedly, swims normal, at least consistent since the day I got it. I have no idea about pooping. I can't tell when it does

 

[fishguy242]

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[smalltownuser]

Okay, I see the pics. Looks like Brooklynella. You'll need to set up a QT tank. Give the fish a formalin bath for roughly 45 minutes, and then put them into QT. Treat with metronidazole for 14 days, and run your DT fallow for 6 weeks.

Is it worth quarantining the one alone? It's been around my other one. Can't it transmit it, and with that wouldn't my other one need to be treated as well? As of now I only have the two clowns. I was about to get my first Tang this weekend but I guess that's not happening

 

[vetteguy53081]

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This is brooklynella and likely prolonged.
The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

 

[vetteguy53081]

Okay, I see the pics. Looks like Brooklynella. You'll need to set up a QT tank. Give the fish a formalin bath for roughly 45 minutes, and then put them into QT. Treat with metronidazole for 14 days, and run your DT fallow for 6 weeks.

You cant find formalin at this point and NO metro- wont do a thing

 

[smalltownuser]

Okay, I see the pics. Looks like Brooklynella. You'll need to set up a QT tank. Give the fish a formalin bath for roughly 45 minutes, and then put them into QT. Treat with metronidazole for 14 days, and run your DT fallow for 6 weeks.

Can you tell me what a formalin bath is? I called my lfs and they had no idea what I was talking about

 

[smalltownuser]

This is brooklynella and likely prolonged.
The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

Wow that's very in depth . Thank you. What is formalin? My lfs didn't know what I was talking about. Also, I only have the 2 clowns in there. Do I need to remove them or can I dose this main tank?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Wow that's very in depth . Thank you. What is formalin? My lfs didn't know what I was talking about. Also, I only have the 2 clowns in there. Do I need to remove them or can I dose this main tank?

Remove yes and a 5 minute freshwater dip (same temp as display tank) will offer temporarily relief and buy time until you get treatment. Ruby rally takes longer but works. Formalin is in the product Quick cure but impossible to find. You can use formaldehyde and dilurte BUT . . is a matter if you dilute to 37% correctly and convincing a pharmacist to sell you formaldehyde - as you can imagine, nothing to play with

 

[smalltownuser]

You cant find formalin at this point and NO metro- wont do a thing

Well what do I do if I can't get formalin?? And If metro
wont work what should I use

 

[vetteguy53081]

Well what do I do if I can't get formalin?? And If metro
wont work what should I use

As mentioned - Ruby Rally Pro

 

[smalltownuser]

As mentioned - Ruby Rally Pro

So I found ruby but I won't get it until Saturday. What should I do in the meantime?

 

[vetteguy53081]

So I found ruby but I won't get it until Saturday. What should I do in the meantime?

Give freshwater ship tonite and again Friday evening. Assure temperature is same temperature as their tank.
Are they breathing normal or labored?
Are they eating Yet?

 

[smalltownuser]

Give freshwater ship tonite and again Friday evening. Assure temperature is same temperature as their tank.
Are they breathing normal or labored?
Are they eating Yet?

They never stopped eating. They get very excited about food. Breathing looks normal.
So just take them out, dip in fresh water and put back in the main tank for now?

 

[Fish Styx]

If you can't find fomalin, you can use Hydroplex by Ruby Reef

 

[Fish Styx]

You cant find formalin at this point and NO metro- wont do a thing

O, really? It's an aldehyde. Also, Valley Vet has formalin in stock.

 

[smalltownuser]

Why won't metro work?

O, really? It's an aldehyde. Also, Valley Vet has formalin in stock.

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