Is MarcoRock the Enemy?

AKreuzer

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Preface: this has been my experience and findings...there may be unpopular opinions here but I want to leverage this to share my challenges and what I would do differntly and how I plan to move forward.


Tank Setup to start:
150g Display Tank
55g Sump
Theiling Compact Rollermat
2 inch carribsea live sand
150ish lbs. of rock about 70% white Marco rock and 30% Life Rock

I started reefing almost 2 years ago. I got free tanks (150g and a 55g) and dove face first into the hobby. I had no practical experience, just what I had read, the internet and an amazing LFS. When it came to cycling the tank, I did fish in, 2 oscilarous clowns and Dr Tims All-in-One. So, I was off to the races right? No....it took a long time to cycle compared to what others were seeing on FB...I associate this with having a larger tank and the rollermat. BRS does say that a rollermat may work TOO well. but no worries, I kept on trucking. I progressed adding fish and enjoyed the ride for a while.... after about 9 months I had what i was calling Red Hair Algae...in fact it was probably Diatoms Ill add a photo in a follow up post, but it was gnarly and just over running things. At this point my nutrients were super low NO3 was 5-10 and PO4 was .05-.15. Then the Diatoms cleared up and nutrients went up....and up....and up I added a 40w AI UV sterilizer then a Reef Octopus Regal 200sss and still were going up and ended up peaking around NO3 65-75 and PO4 .65-75 (I was using Hanna checkers and think 75/.75 are the upper limits so they may have gone higher).

At this point I was fairly stocked for fish but very little coral. Everything seemed healthy. There was no leading indicators of something being off other than high nutrients compared to what everyone recommended and i was pretty aligned to the Redfield ration ~1:100. so I knew as early into the hobby as I was I should do something and then 18months in the Green Hair Algae Popped up and it got bad.

About 4 months ago the Green Hair Algae arrived and I am still battling it things I have done include thoroughly cleaning out the sump. I noticed some compartments had buildup of detritus and other debris so wet vac'd and scrubbed them down which had a pretty good indicator that this was helping it dropped my NO4 to about 40 and then my PO3 to .50.

I added a refugium, I think they are cool and thought it would be a good way to naturally reduce the nutrients....it probably is but it didn’t have an affect on my nutrients and I think the first few batches of cheato broke down and added to the issue....it caught detritus or allowed for it to build up on it. I started dosing Brightwell Iron Ferrion and that allowed the last batch of cheato to hang on longer but it never really grew so I ended up throwing what was there out and focused in other areas.

I started having a ton of conversations with other reefers online and locally about the quantity of food I was putting in as it hasn’t really changed in almost 9 months before the GHA showed up so I thought it was fine....it wasn’t I was feeding LRS Reef Frenzy daily along with 3/4 of a sheet of LRS Seaweed. At this time I wasn’t measuring my frozen food. I was breaking off a chunk thinking it was close enough and if it was too much I had a rollermat and a protein skimmer that would have my back and get it out before it broke down.....nope
So the next thing I did was reduce feeding....I now do 1/2 a sheet of LRS Seaweed 2-3 times per week and got into the habit of taking the packet of frozen food and measuring out exactly 1"x1.25" squares which will make I pack last a whole month. This then too had a great result....My NO4 is now down to 20 but PO3 is still at .50

so now what and where does Marco come into this? Well some local reefers who have been in the hobby for a long time (20+years) really had nothing good to say about Marco Rock and that I could have to wait up until 3 years for the rock to mature and stabilize. Many suggested that my nutrients will be all over the place until the rock stabilizes which means 18 more months of radical nutrients and nuisance algae. (I now see why some quit the hobby) There is not a ton of info or studies on it. If you watch BRS or talk to some LFS they praise it but at the same time they have a financial tie to selling it.

Testing
I put my thinking cap on and thought if my problem was the rock how can I prove it? I took rock out of my sump (all the extra pieces that I was lead to believe would be beneficial as additional surface area for beneficial bacteria) and put it in a bucket with fresh mixed saltwater with NO4 0.00 and PO3 0.00 water, covered it, and let it sit for 7 days. After it sat for 7 days the PO4 went up to .43

My Marco white rock had leached out into the water enough to make the water increase to .43? if that is happening with a few rocks in a small bucket how much is that 100+ lbs of rock leaching out into the water. I had scrubbed my sump/overflow/siphoned my sand and had even taken most rock out and scrubbed with a tooth brush to remove the GHA sooo is all that i am left with water changes? lanthium? what?

Well here is my approach:
-I am going to remove all the rock from the sump...theres only a few pieces left but that much less to continue leaching PO3
-any pieces that I can afford to lose from the display tank will also go
-I have ordered 20lbs Tamp Bay Live rock that will allow me to replace some more rock in the Display tank
-I am hoping that this will bring the PO numbers down enough to be within the RF Ratio
If that doesn’t work I am thinking GFO in a reactor until the PO in the remaining Marco rock is equivalent to that of the water and within the RF Ratio

CONCLUSION FROM THE "NEW" GUY
- Is Marco Rock the enemy? No I don’t think so but I also don’t think that social media and content creators present it appropriately. In my opinion the rock is a sponge for a very long time. I believe it masked some of the indicators of my over feeding so long that by the time I had indicators the problem had perpetuated beyond what I could comprehend at that time.
-Over feeding- you can see in my previous posts and other areas that you are probably over feeding....sure what there is not guide that is reasonably prescriptive for newbies and if nutrients is supposed to be your indicator for newbies to calibrate your feeding quantities then Yes I believe Marco Rock is the enemy as it absorbs that nutrient to a point where when you are reacting to the increase levels your adjustments have little to no affect.
-Content creators. It killed me as a newbie to see folks posting these "new" thanks that looked jaw dropping. "here's my tank at 6 months in! 1 year in" whatever, stop it! or preface it with I started with cycled rock or cycled water or whatever cause in my experience your crushing the spirits of those like me that started with dry rock and life rock and have been struggling for 18months or more because of the lack of experience feeding and the lack of documentation on how Marco rock reacts in a tank over time.

Again my thoughts and opinions of my experience over that last 18months. I hope this is helpful to someone at some point or gets a conversation started so that way new people are coming into the product a bit more eye open.
 

twentyleagues

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Marco is a sponge. So yes if you put it in a soup of phosphate and nitrate that will get "absorbed". It will then "leach" out as water parameters are corrected. I get where you are coming from on this. Its not the fault of the rock but more on the person not controlling nutrients in the first place, like you already said. A refugium is great if sized correctly but wont work miracles. Same goes for a skimmer. Water changes would be most useful in the early stages to help keep nutrients down or lower.
 

Tavero

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Phosphate will leach into rocks when the concentration is higher in the water, and leach out of the rock when it is lower. Regardless of dry or life rock.
My guess is that the phosphate had nowhere to go because of your high stocking and leached into the rock.

Now, I don't know about macro rock. Is this harvested dry rock or artificial dry rock? What kind of material is it made out of?

Forget about Redfield ratios they only apply for deep sea animals. Phosphate and nitrate concentrations in tropical reef water are zero. It's more about the balance in reef tanks than actual numbers.

How bad is the algae right now? A picture would help
 
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AKreuzer

AKreuzer

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Phosphate will leach into rocks when the concentration is higher in the water, and leach out of the rock when it is lower. Regardless of dry or life rock.
My guess is that the phosphate had nowhere to go because of your high stocking and leached into the rock.

Now, I don't know about macro rock. Is this harvested dry rock or artificial dry rock? What kind of material is it made out of?

Forget about Redfield ratios they only apply for deep sea animals. Phosphate and nitrate concentrations in tropical reef water are zero. It's more about the balance in reef tanks than actual numbers.

How bad is the algae right now? A picture would help
RIght now its not terrible....I think better habits have reduced its rapid growth but if I go 3-4 days without doing some scrubbing of rock you can tell that it is building back up
 
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AKreuzer

AKreuzer

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Marco is a sponge. So yes if you put it in a soup of phosphate and nitrate that will get "absorbed". It will then "leach" out as water parameters are corrected. I get where you are coming from on this. Its not the fault of the rock but more on the person not controlling nutrients in the first place, like you already said. A refugium is great if sized correctly but wont work miracles. Same goes for a skimmer. Water changes would be most useful in the early stages to help keep nutrients down or lower.
I guess I should be clear that I dont want to "blame". I desire better or clearer information. There is so much out there and I understand the variables are drastically different from tank to tank, water volume/rock volume/type of rock/substrate/quantity of fish/size of fish/types of fish/etc etc. You are 1000% correct that it ultimatley comes down to the person controlling the nutrients but like me how many others dont have a reasonable cornerstone of information to get an understanding of what the right amount of food actually is? With that being said I have not found anything saying i have an X g tank with these fish I feed Y grams of this food and Z grams of whatever alse. As a community I do feel we can figure out a way to be more informative there.
 

twentyleagues

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Phosphate will leach into rocks when the concentration is higher in the water, and leach out of the rock when it is lower. Regardless of dry or life rock.
My guess is that the phosphate had nowhere to go because of your high stocking and leached into the rock.

Now, I don't know about macro rock. Is this harvested dry rock or artificial dry rock? What kind of material is it made out of?

Forget about Redfield ratios they only apply for deep sea animals. Phosphate and nitrate concentrations in tropical reef water are zero. It's more about the balance in reef tanks than actual numbers.

How bad is the algae right now? A picture would help
Marco rock is mined form the ground where ancient reefs grew. the rock is broken down power washed and acid washed then sold.
 

Tavero

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RIght now its not terrible....I think better habits have reduced its rapid growth but if I go 3-4 days without doing some scrubbing of rock you can tell that it is building back up
As you suspected, dry rock needs a long time to mature and stabilize. Too long for me. I started all my tanks with 100% live rock and had a more or less stable tank after one month.

You could try gfo or lanthanum, but you wrote that you already ordered new life rock to switch out some of the dry rock? While more expensive, that may be a faster fix.
 

twentyleagues

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I guess I should be clear that I dont want to "blame". I desire better or clearer information. There is so much out there and I understand the variables are drastically different from tank to tank, water volume/rock volume/type of rock/substrate/quantity of fish/size of fish/types of fish/etc etc. You are 1000% correct that it ultimatley comes down to the person controlling the nutrients but like me how many others dont have a reasonable cornerstone of information to get an understanding of what the right amount of food actually is? With that being said I have not found anything saying i have an X g tank with these fish I feed Y grams of this food and Z grams of whatever alse. As a community I do feel we can figure out a way to be more informative there.
I agree as there are not hard fast feeding rules. What I have seen is as much as the fish will eat in X-time frame. I have seen x be anywhere from 30sec to 3 min. What kind of tank and fish will make a difference also is it high energy where the fish have to work hard to stay in the area they want, are they themselves high energy fish? How many feedings per day is another caveat.
 

BeanAnimal

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Testing
I put my thinking cap on and thought if my problem was the rock how can I prove it? I took rock out of my sump (all the extra pieces that I was lead to believe would be beneficial as additional surface area for beneficial bacteria) and put it in a bucket with fresh mixed saltwater with NO4 0.00 and PO3 0.00 water, covered it, and let it sit for 7 days. After it sat for 7 days the PO4 went up to .43
Because it (like any other calcium carbonate based rock) absorbed the PO4 from your display and then leached into the test bucket. The rock and water will find equilibrium. The more mass in the rock, the more sequestered PO4.

Have a nice day.
 

Tavero

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Marco rock is mined form the ground where ancient reefs grew. the rock is broken down power washed and acid washed then sold.
Gotcha. So theoretically it may have been already oversaturated with phosphate right from the start? Considering it's natural and there are differences in each batch.
Do you need to cure it in peroxide before using?
 

BeanAnimal

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As you suspected, dry rock needs a long time to mature and stabilize. Too long for me.
I am not sure what that means. This is not an argument for dry base rock vs live, but you are building a system thats length should be measured in years or decades and worried about a few weeks or months. "Dry" rock becomes "live" rock the moment you get it wet and will continue to mature over weeks and months. While rock is porous (some more than others) most of the life is on or near the surface.

There are countless successful systems of all sizes started with dry base rock. In fact in the until the early 2000's most people couldn't get their hands on real "live rock" and even then most couldn't afford it.
 

twentyleagues

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Gotcha. So theoretically it may have been already oversaturated with phosphate right from the start? Considering it's natural and there are differences in each batch.
Do you need to cure it in peroxide before using?
No. It should be free of basically anything. The cleaning processes should take care of that.
 

Cell

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Gotcha. So theoretically it may have been already oversaturated with phosphate right from the start? Considering it's natural and there are differences in each batch.
Do you need to cure it in peroxide before using?
No. It would absorb it from the water until it reaches equilibrium.
 

BeanAnimal

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Lastly - is it possible for "dry" based rock mined from a hillside to have bound phosphate? Sure. One can easily toss it in a bucket of water for a day or two and test. If there is, then simple steps can be taken to remove the phosphate.

That brings me to another point. Back when we took wagons to school the "live" was pulled from the ocean, tossed in a boat, then on a dock and them maybe or maybe not on a holding tank... no lights. Then shipped damp, not wet and not overnight. You or your LFS had to take it and "cure" it in a tub with a skimmer for a week or 6 to get rid of all of the die off before using it in a new tank anyway. I am talking about buckets of nasty gunk getting skimmed off. "Dry rock" was less hassle.
 

KrisReef

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No. It would absorb it from the water until it reaches equilibrium.
I have done this process in a “curing “ bucket adding lanthanum chloride and a circulation pump and keep adding LC until the P has been removed from the rocks.

Live rock and “artificial “ rocks all get saturated with P and adding LC until the rocks are “cleaned” will help reset P in the DT with these cleaned rocks present.

Try the bucket test on your new live rocks and use LC to get them into parameter compliance before you add them all to the DT. I don’t think LC is a live rock killer but I don’t have white paper data to determine this.
 

Tavero

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I am not sure what that means. This is not an argument for dry base rock vs live, but you are building a system thats length should be measured in years or decades and worried about a few weeks or months. "Dry" rock becomes "live" rock the moment you get it wet and will continue to mature over weeks and months. While rock is porous (some more than others) most of the life is on or near the surface.

There are countless successful systems of all sizes started with dry base rock. In fact in the until the early 2000's most people couldn't get their hands on real "live rock" and even then most couldn't afford it.
I disagree with you.
First if all you americans couldn't get your hands on real live rock. In Europe we never had this problem because there never was an import ban. It's also similar priced as dry rock here. No respectable shop would sell cures dry rock as live rock here.

There also are a lot of differences. You won't get animals like boring clams, peanut worms ect to populate your dry rock no matter how long you keep it wet. A lot of oceanic animals don't propagate in tanks.
Also if the rock is populated with the correct bacteria right from the start, it will compete more successfully with undesirable bacteria and algae.

I have seen it again and again. Tanks that have been started with live rock are running with less issues and are stable faster.
 

Cell

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I have done this process in a “curing “ bucket adding lanthanum chloride and a circulation pump and keep adding LC until the P has been removed from the rocks.

Live rock and “artificial “ rocks all get saturated with P and adding LC until the rocks are “cleaned” will help reset P in the DT with these cleaned rocks present.

Try the bucket test on your new live rocks and use LC to get them into parameter compliance before you add them all to the DT. I don’t think LC is a live rock killer but I don’t have white paper data to determine this.
You forgot the punchline! I have certain expectations from your posts.
 

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