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Danner Mag pumps have some of the best head loss characteristics. Mag 3 would do for sure, Mag 2 might even be OK. Rio 1100 is what I stock, at 12" head you get over 200 GPH of flow usually pretty easily
Thanks Bud
it's a mag 3 so i should be peachy.
I pulled another >2 pounds out of my L4 from 2 weeks growth. This thing is sick!
I'm getting some production from my PS but I keep it online mostly for oxygen saturation. I have a heavy bio-load of fish and as such pretty heavy feeding. I wouldn't be nervous about the L2 being oversized, depending on your bio-load, just watch your nutrients so they don't get too low. I do have to add some KNo3 every once and a while but not much.Wow! An L4 on a 70 gallon DT!?! Are you getting any production on your skimmer? I’ll be running a new to me L2 R4 on a 57 gallon DT and am nervous about it being oversized... How much do you feed?
It's been kind of a rough month actually, I got a set of parts in and there were multiple issues. Not to get into great detail about it, but there were some parts with surface finish issues and other parts I had them make modifications to that turned out head-scratchingly incorrect.
The good news is that I have mounting rails in stock, and I have the (fixed & revised) L4 slot pipe in hand now! The fix was the OD on the ends of the pipe was a bit too small; the fittings slipped right on and seated fully, they are now tight. The revision was adding a piece of plastic in the middle of the slot to maintain consistent width along the entire slot; without this, the slot width was all over the place from part-to-part.
I do now also have parts to make a limited number of L2s and possibly some L4s - though not as many as I had hoped. Probably enough to tie up all my free time between now and the end of the year though.
That's what I've found, I have more flow on the feed side and less on the capped end.
That's what I thought after seeing your post. I've bumped up my flow a little more and it looks good so farIf you have the PVC pipe router-cut version, that is not the issue; that slot would be straight an even initially, but might start to pinch closed in the middle over time which would result in slightly less flow in the middle over time (years) (but hardly noticeable actually)
The issue you describe @Salty1962 with more flow on the feed side is likely caused by flow being on the lower end (GPH is a bit low). At least I think so. You might have the injection version from before I discovered the problem with it?
What is the dimensions of the base of this model?I just got my new L4 set up!
If this is correct, that setting is too low. I recommend starting at the 6 o'clock postion, and then increasing the intensity as your screen matures - since it's an audio taper potentiometer, turning it left (counter-clockwise) increases intensity, so I would change this right away to the 3 or 4 o'clock position.My light schedule is 12 hours at 7 oclock on the dial.
If that's the Rio 1100 and you have about 12" of vertical head, that should be finePump runs 24/7 with the flow knob nearly all the way open.
Brushing off the rocks too vigorously can solve one problem but present another - you can remove the periphyton (soft surface) which is where a lot of life resides, so if you take this to an extreme it can result in mini-cycles. The goal is to get the scrubber to compete properly, it doesn't sound like it was doing that quite right, especially with the light intensity at 7 o'clock (or even 5 o'clock, if that's what you meant)My question is should I treat with something like vibrant with the scrubber off or leave the scrubber on and keep brushing off the rocks?
If this is correct, that setting is too low. I recommend starting at the 6 o'clock postion, and then increasing the intensity as your screen matures - since it's an audio taper potentiometer, turning it left (counter-clockwise) increases intensity, so I would change this right away to the 3 or 4 o'clock position.
Given the recent event, I would also increase the hours to 14 or 16 per day
If that's the Rio 1100 and you have about 12" of vertical head, that should be fine
Brushing off the rocks too vigorously can solve one problem but present another - you can remove the periphyton (soft surface) which is where a lot of life resides, so if you take this to an extreme it can result in mini-cycles. The goal is to get the scrubber to compete properly, it doesn't sound like it was doing that quite right, especially with the light intensity at 7 o'clock (or even 5 o'clock, if that's what you meant)
I've had people treat with vibrant and the scrubber survives. Vibrant is not really an algaecide so it won't kill it, it basically causes an effect where the algae gets out-competed (sort of) so if your scrubber has a highly favorable environment (like flow, intensity, etc) then it **should** be OK. But the safe bet is to take the screen out, give it a partial cleaning (leave a much of growth on it) and put it in a bucket or baggie while you treat with vibrant, then put it back in when you're done. The screen and algae on it will survive for a week or so, longer if you keep the water from getting too cold and if you shine a light on it for a few hours/day (nothing special needed, any light really).
I would amp up the scrubber first and see if that helps. If you still have decent growth on it after cleaning, you might be able to temporarily push the intensity and photoperiod even higher. But I'd start at 3-4 o'clock and 14-16 hrs/day first.
For example, 5 o’clock is brighter than 7. Counter clockwise, increases brightness. Start at 6 o’clock , and increase from there, to 5 o’clock. Mines between 4 and 5 o’clock.I am a little confused what you mean by audio taper pot. When looking directly at the knob the pointy part of the knob is right where 7 o'clock would be. You are suggesting turn it to counter clockwise so its pointing directly down at 6? O further counter clockwise to 3? For my reference in this older pic the pointy part of the knob is at 12.