Identification Help

David29price

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I've recently had some issues with fish loss and after consulting several people in the local aquarium club 3 Rivers Marine Aquarium Society, I'm posting this with hopes that someone will be able to help us identify the issue and advice a course of action.

Not sure if at mentions work here, but I'm told @Jay Hemdal is an expert in this area and may be able to give good advice.

To give a background/overview, these are the details:

400 gallon mixed reef, heavy fish population (roughly 50 fish), a few inverts, minimum coral, although a large piece of GSP (2' length).

About a month ago I added two triggers an angel and a blue dot jawfish all within 2 weeks of each other. I used Safety Stop Rapid Fish Quarantine as directed before putting the in the main display tank. I've done this prior without any issues.

About 3-4 days in, the picasso trigger died. I didn't take much thought of it as he had not been eating since day one, didn't seem interested and was acting downright weird with his behavior.

2 days later the clown trigger died. He looked like he was covered in something, but as he had died sometime in the last 24 hours, I could not tell if it was a disease or just his skin starting to come off.

The blue dot jawfish was very elusive and not very active. I was unable to get it to eat much and at this point he was struggling to stay alive. He looked like he had something on it, so I removed it an euthanized him.

The passer king angel never got sick and has been eating fine.

My clown tang which I've had for nearly two years has some white dots on it. I swear I've seen this before only to see it vanish and then come back. The working theory is that it is Ick and we are seeing the lifecycle repeating. As the water volume is high, very healthy fat fish and a UV, the theory is that the population is staying low. There appears to be something on some of the other fish as well, but it is very hard to see and not positive it is anything at all, although many of the fish have cloudy eyes.

To back up a little, back in March my bio-pellet reactor suffered a major problem and basically quit working. My Nitrates went up off the scale and slowly over the summer I lost all my hammers and frogspawn. I had a good amount. I've gradually been able to get the Nitrates down to the mid 40's and hovering around there. I've ordered a sulfur denitrator and will be switching to that in a month. I have two pellet reactors running, but my bioload is so high, they just keep clogging and I can't get the nitrates below 40....

My theory on the cloudy eyes is that it is a result of the high Nitrates, but that is just a theory. All my fish are otherwise very healthy and fat.

Last Sunday, 6 days ago, I suddenly lost a yellow headed goby. It had no signs of disease and had been eating/swimming fine the day before. At the moment I don't know if I have something in the tank or not.

Everyone is telling me just do copper or remove them and do copper in QT. The problem I have is, half of these fish are in the 6-10" range of size. The other half are apple sized and dozens are much smaller. To try to get them all out would be a nightmare and I'd surely stress them out so much I'd likely lose some trying to do so. All of my rock work was carefully put together and cemented together, so I can't remove it.

I can remove the coral I have left and move to my frag tank as a temporary solution. If this is Ick, the feeling from my club president is that I can induce hyposalinity for a period of 30 days to get through the Ick stages and have it die off, then move the coral back when I'm done. The downside is, if this isn't Ick, nothing will have changed. If it isn't Ick, we will have at least ruled that out, but then we are at a point of, what is it? Doing copper in the main tank will of course make it useless to ever have coral in again which I don't want to do. An alternative has been suggested which is Chloroquine Phosphate as it doesn't stay embedded in the system and would kill just about everything.

So, here are the best pictures I can get of the Clown Tang showing the white dots. In some light you can't even see them, in others it is clear. The fish is NOT rubbing against rocks, it isn't swimming into power heads or water current like you would expect to see. We also don't feel this is Velvet as if it was, the entire tank would have been wiped out a few weeks ago.

clown1.jpg
clown2.jpg
clown3.jpg
 

sfin52

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That looks like ich. Pull fish and qt.
 

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Yeah, what I can see of that looks like ich to me. You may also have had a bacterial infection take hold on the jawfish, if it had something weird on it.

Chloroquine phosphate will be degraded by your biofilter at an unknown speed, and as such may be ineffective. Hyposalinity, with your coral removed to another tank at least 10 feet away (so it won't re-infect the tank via aerosol contamination) and left fallow for long enough to let any ich die off that piece, is probably your best bet if pulling the fish isn't possible.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Determining cause of death without could solid symptoms is usually not possible without doing a necropsy.

A couple of observations - safety stop is just a dip with formalin as one part of it. Dips are not 100% effective at eliminating disease, so that process can fail.

Blue spot jaws are delicate and prone to a presumptive bacterial disease. They also do better at cooler temperatures. I won’t buy them.

I wonder if you best option is going to be hyposalinity for 30 days with moving the invertebrates to a fallow tank for 45 to 60 days. The cloudy eyes could well be Neobenedenia flukes and hypo handles flukes as well as ich. It doesn’t treat velvet or brooklynella, but I don’t think those are involved here.

Jay
 
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David29price

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Determining cause of death without could solid symptoms is usually not possible without doing a necropsy.

A couple of observations - safety stop is just a dip with formalin as one part of it. Dips are not 100% effective at eliminating disease, so that process can fail.

Blue spot jaws are delicate and prone to a presumptive bacterial disease. They also do better at cooler temperatures. I won’t buy them.

I wonder if you best option is going to be hyposalinity for 30 days with moving the invertebrates to a fallow tank for 45 to 60 days. The cloudy eyes could well be Neobenedenia flukes and hypo handles flukes as well as ich. It doesn’t treat velvet or brooklynella, but I don’t think those are involved here.

Jay
Ok thanks Jay. So you feel best course of action here is hyposinity?
 
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David29price

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Yeah, what I can see of that looks like ich to me. You may also have had a bacterial infection take hold on the jawfish, if it had something weird on it.

Chloroquine phosphate will be degraded by your biofilter at an unknown speed, and as such may be ineffective. Hyposalinity, with your coral removed to another tank at least 10 feet away (so it won't re-infect the tank via aerosol contamination) and left fallow for long enough to let any ich die off that piece, is probably your best bet if pulling the fish isn't possible.
 

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I've recently had some issues with fish loss and after consulting several people in the local aquarium club 3 Rivers Marine Aquarium Society, I'm posting this with hopes that someone will be able to help us identify the issue and advice a course of action.

Not sure if at mentions work here, but I'm told @Jay Hemdal is an expert in this area and may be able to give good advice.

To give a background/overview, these are the details:

400 gallon mixed reef, heavy fish population (roughly 50 fish), a few inverts, minimum coral, although a large piece of GSP (2' length).

About a month ago I added two triggers an angel and a blue dot jawfish all within 2 weeks of each other. I used Safety Stop Rapid Fish Quarantine as directed before putting the in the main display tank. I've done this prior without any issues.

About 3-4 days in, the picasso trigger died. I didn't take much thought of it as he had not been eating since day one, didn't seem interested and was acting downright weird with his behavior.

2 days later the clown trigger died. He looked like he was covered in something, but as he had died sometime in the last 24 hours, I could not tell if it was a disease or just his skin starting to come off.

The blue dot jawfish was very elusive and not very active. I was unable to get it to eat much and at this point he was struggling to stay alive. He looked like he had something on it, so I removed it an euthanized him.

The passer king angel never got sick and has been eating fine.

My clown tang which I've had for nearly two years has some white dots on it. I swear I've seen this before only to see it vanish and then come back. The working theory is that it is Ick and we are seeing the lifecycle repeating. As the water volume is high, very healthy fat fish and a UV, the theory is that the population is staying low. There appears to be something on some of the other fish as well, but it is very hard to see and not positive it is anything at all, although many of the fish have cloudy eyes.

To back up a little, back in March my bio-pellet reactor suffered a major problem and basically quit working. My Nitrates went up off the scale and slowly over the summer I lost all my hammers and frogspawn. I had a good amount. I've gradually been able to get the Nitrates down to the mid 40's and hovering around there. I've ordered a sulfur denitrator and will be switching to that in a month. I have two pellet reactors running, but my bioload is so high, they just keep clogging and I can't get the nitrates below 40....

My theory on the cloudy eyes is that it is a result of the high Nitrates, but that is just a theory. All my fish are otherwise very healthy and fat.

Last Sunday, 6 days ago, I suddenly lost a yellow headed goby. It had no signs of disease and had been eating/swimming fine the day before. At the moment I don't know if I have something in the tank or not.

Everyone is telling me just do copper or remove them and do copper in QT. The problem I have is, half of these fish are in the 6-10" range of size. The other half are apple sized and dozens are much smaller. To try to get them all out would be a nightmare and I'd surely stress them out so much I'd likely lose some trying to do so. All of my rock work was carefully put together and cemented together, so I can't remove it.

I can remove the coral I have left and move to my frag tank as a temporary solution. If this is Ick, the feeling from my club president is that I can induce hyposalinity for a period of 30 days to get through the Ick stages and have it die off, then move the coral back when I'm done. The downside is, if this isn't Ick, nothing will have changed. If it isn't Ick, we will have at least ruled that out, but then we are at a point of, what is it? Doing copper in the main tank will of course make it useless to ever have coral in again which I don't want to do. An alternative has been suggested which is Chloroquine Phosphate as it doesn't stay embedded in the system and would kill just about everything.

So, here are the best pictures I can get of the Clown Tang showing the white dots. In some light you can't even see them, in others it is clear. The fish is NOT rubbing against rocks, it isn't swimming into power heads or water current like you would expect to see. We also don't feel this is Velvet as if it was, the entire tank would have been wiped out a few weeks ago.
If you can remove your inverts I would agree with the hyposalinity protocol EDIT - just saw Jay already answered - good luck with your tank - a picture would be nice.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Ok thanks Jay. So you feel best course of action here is hyposinity?
I think it is an option. Here is a post about it:


Jay
 
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David29price

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So I’ve read this article and a few others. A few questions I have.

1. I’ve read 1.010 is the desired salinity but this says 1.009 and I’ve had verbal confirmation as well. What is your opinion?
2. Is there any issue with lowering the salinity slower over 5-6 days to further reduce stress? My infection does not appear to be horrible. I’m not losing fish daily.
3. How long should I maintain hypo? I’ve seen charts for ick that indicate roughly 32 days and others that state 72 days. Which is it?

Thanks in advance?
 

Jay Hemdal

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1.009 is the target for ich, 1.012 works for flukes. 1.010 is the highest you want to go for ich though. Don't take 5-6 days to drop - fish handle a drop in salinity much better than when you raise it. Drop the salinity in 48 hours, with even reductions, and then hold it there for 30 days. Take 5 to 6 days to bring it back up at the end.

Jay
 
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David29price

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So thinking this through, trying to be thorough and seeing how a lot of people see ammonia spikes due to algae die off in the first few days made me think about my Chaeto Reactor. Would you expect the Chaeto to die off as well? I'm thinking it is a bad idea to move it to my QT as it may take eggs with it. So, what is the best solution here? Just trying to think of every possible bad thing that might happen....

Next, is there an easy calculator to figure out how much salt to add per day to raise the salinity back up, and what is the recommended rate per day to increase? I've seen varying answers on this. I've also see it recommended to use baked baking soda to adjust PH as it will likely drop. Any comments on that?

Thanks @Jay Hemdal !
 

Jay Hemdal

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One of our fish Medics developed a series of calculators, one of which does salinity adjustments. check out the Excel file at this link, then open the correct tab at the bottom to get to the calculator that you need:


The pH may drop, but that renders the ammonia less toxic. I don't buffer the pH for fish unless it goes below 7.6

Jay
 
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David29price

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One of our fish Medics developed a series of calculators, one of which does salinity adjustments. check out the Excel file at this link, then open the correct tab at the bottom to get to the calculator that you need:


The pH may drop, but that renders the ammonia less toxic. I don't buffer the pH for fish unless it goes below 7.6

Jay
Thank you once again! I'm sure many of these questions are asked repeatedly in other posts, I just find so much conflicting information and old/new information. I'm told you are one of the best, so I appreciate the answers to all my questions.
 

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