Idea for most simple water change possible for sump in fish room - ideas and experience welcome

[carri10]

Hello.

I’m setting up a large (approx. 1000L display, approx. 250L sump) system and am looking to design the sump in a basement fish room. I have a question on water changes. I want the lowest tech possible – less failure points, less to worry about, lower cost etc etc.

I was thinking of setting the sump up such that I would have about 2 or 3 sections to the sump.
The first section would be with filters/skimmers and ending in a ‘fuge that would connect via a bulkhead with valved piping to the final section which would contain bubble trap, ATO and return pump. In parallel to this, I would have a fresh saltwater make-up tank plumbed from ‘fuge, (with valve) to return pump tank (with valve).

In normal operation, the direct line from ‘fuge to return pump tank valve would be open. The valves to the saltwater make-up would be closed.

In water change, I would close the direct line (‘fuge to return pump tank) and open the valve from ‘fuge to fresh saltwater, and from fresh saltwater to return pump tank.

Effectively, I would dump 150L of fresh saltwater into the system as extra volume

After one night, I would reverse the procedure, isolating the saltwater tank, draining it and prepping for next change. Plan for approx. 10% a week.



Will this work?

Disadvantage is that I only gain about 90% of the volume change as I am diluting in, not replacing volume. I am fine with this due to advantage.

Advantage – simply three valves to move. No pumps, no calibrating of pumps. No worries about pump failures or pump costs. About as simple as I could imagine.

All comments are welcome!

 

[jda]

The easiest thing that I have found is to have a large sump that can handle removing 44g of water. Put it on a stand with a ball valve and plumbing to a drain. If no drain, a submersible pump and some 3/4 ID hose from Amazon is cheap and easy.

Get a 44g brute trash can and a pump with a float valve to your RODI unit. Full bag of IO into the trash can, RO water, pump for a few days and add acid, calcium chloride or other things as you see fit. Mixes perfectly to 35 PPT salinity. You can elevate this above the sump and add another ball valve if you wish.

Turn off your ATO. Turn the sump ball valve to drain out 44g. Turn the ball valve on the trash can to add the water. Done.

If you use a versatile pump for this setup, it can also be a backup for your system if the main pump fails. You can also vacuum debris out of the sump with a siphon hose if you elevate it. You will likely need a pump to make new salt... not only to mix, but also for adequate surface agitation for gas exchange and to match the pH.

This takes me like a minute to make new water - dump in salt one day with some CaCl... next day some Muriatic acid. Then, water change day is turning a valve and waiting like a minute. Then about 2 minutes with the other valve.

 

[carri10]

I like it. I'll need to think through the 3D side of things where I can have space and wher eI can raise tank ups, but I like it. Thanks!

 

[carri10]

The easiest thing that I have found is to have a large sump that can handle removing 44g of water. Put it on a stand with a ball valve and plumbing to a drain. If no drain, a submersible pump and some 3/4 ID hose from Amazon is cheap and easy.

Get a 44g brute trash can and a pump with a float valve to your RODI unit. Full bag of IO into the trash can, RO water, pump for a few days and add acid, calcium chloride or other things as you see fit. Mixes perfectly to 35 PPT salinity. You can elevate this above the sump and add another ball valve if you wish.

Turn off your ATO. Turn the sump ball valve to drain out 44g. Turn the ball valve on the trash can to add the water. Done.

If you use a versatile pump for this setup, it can also be a backup for your system if the main pump fails. You can also vacuum debris out of the sump with a siphon hose if you elevate it. You will likely need a pump to make new salt... not only to mix, but also for adequate surface agitation for gas exchange and to match the pH.

This takes me like a minute to make new water - dump in salt one day with some CaCl... next day some Muriatic acid. Then, water change day is turning a valve and waiting like a minute. Then about 2 minutes with the other valve.

Hiya. Just thinking through this, when you change the water, you stop the return pump, right?

 

[jda]

Not if there is enough room in the sump to take the water out without going below the return pump level. I have that room and I do not stop the return pump - final chamber goes from like 11 inches to 5ish. I just turn off the Tunze ATO since it gets mad at me.

You can totally turn it off, or not. Up to you.

I would empty the skimmer cups just in case the fresh saltwater cases them to overflow, which has happened to me once or twice over the years, but is a rare event. It is a good idea to empty skimmer cups any time before you do something to your tank, so this is no different. My skimmers don't get mad with varying water levels, but some do. My pumps for my calcium reactor are below the low water level during water changes.

When I get done with this, nothing in the tank ever knows that I did a water change... as long as I got the water close to the same temperature and salinity. I do add acid to the salt mix to lower the alk and I add calcium chloride to raise the calcium level along with letting it mix for several days to match the pH to the room so this makes for a good salt match. This is why I love larger sumps... and to have room for many skimmers.

 

[kenchilada]

I’m doing this now. Automated water changes controlled by a simple timer and a dual head Stenner pump.