Ich?

[Bhorsky]

Is this Ich on my PBT? I've had him for 2 years no issues, he seems to be acting fine but it definitely looks like ich (I know they are prone to it) I run a UV, feed garlic, medicate frozen food, etc. in hopes this wouldn't happen.

New video by Brandon Horsky

photos.app.goo.gl

I can't post video it's too large so I shared a link to my Google photo post.

 

[C4ctus99]

Is this Ich on my PBT? I've had him for 2 years no issues, he seems to be acting fine but it definitely looks like ich (I know they are prone to it) I run a UV, feed garlic, medicate frozen food, etc. in hopes this wouldn't happen.

New video by Brandon Horsky

photos.app.goo.gl

I can't post video it's too large so I shared a link to my Google photo post.

Did you use [HASH=55933]#reefmedic[/HASH]?

I didn’t really see anything in the video, but it’s on my tiny phone screen… could you post some screenshots from it circling the specific places you think you can see it?

 

[newreef1]

Is this Ich on my PBT? I've had him for 2 years no issues, he seems to be acting fine but it definitely looks like ich (I know they are prone to it) I run a UV, feed garlic, medicate frozen food, etc. in hopes this wouldn't happen.

New video by Brandon Horsky

photos.app.goo.gl

I can't post video it's too large so I shared a link to my Google photo post.

I also don’t see any distinct white spots on him. If you see small almost cluster like formation on the fins it might be lymphocytes which I believe is generally not deadly.

 

[newreef1]

Is this Ich on my PBT? I've had him for 2 years no issues, he seems to be acting fine but it definitely looks like ich (I know they are prone to it) I run a UV, feed garlic, medicate frozen food, etc. in hopes this wouldn't happen.

New video by Brandon Horsky

photos.app.goo.gl

I can't post video it's too large so I shared a link to my Google photo post.

[HASH=55964]#fishmedic[/HASH]

 

[C4ctus99]

[HASH=55964]#fishmedic[/HASH]

Whoops That… not reefmedic…

 

[Bhorsky]

Hey all, here's some better pictures!

 

[C4ctus99]

Hey all, here's some better pictures! View attachment 3166506View attachment 3166507View attachment 3166509

Yeah, looks like ick or velvet. @Jay Hemdal or @vetteguy53081 can confirm

 

[Ben.QLD2]

Looks like classic marine whitespot to me.

 

[Bhorsky]

Have you guys had luck with reef medic? I have not done anything yet. It just started today.

 

[C4ctus99]

Have you guys had luck with reef medic? I have not done anything yet. It just started today.

The [HASH=55964]#fishmedic[/HASH] is so the fish medics on the forum can see the thread and respond, @Jay Hemdal and @vetteguy53081 are the two that respond the most.

The two routes I see mentioned the most are:
Ick management (not super popular on here)
Quarantine/hospital tank

Ick management involves good healthy diet and low stress and letting the fishes immune system deal with the problem and I am not good at it

Quarantine will be a separate tank with either medication (copper) or hyposalinity.

 

[C4ctus99]

The biggest issue right now is that your display tank will be infected and really you’ll need to put all fish through a quarantine procedure and let the DT lie fallow for I think Jay says 76 days

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hey all, here's some better pictures! View attachment 3166506View attachment 3166507View attachment 3166509

That's marine ich, Cryptocaryon. There are other syndromes that cause salt-sized white spots on tangs, but the presence of spots on the clear portions of the fins is pretty definitive for ich.

Do ANY other fish in the tank show spots? Powder blues are notorious for showing ich in aquariums that generally don't have a big infection going on. If you don't see any other spots, you might get away with ich management in this case:

1) Use a strong UV sterilizer
2) Perform frequent water changes
3) Siphoning the sand early every morning
4) Good mechanical filtration to remove theronts
5) Low dose peroxide additions
6) provide a good diet - but in this case, the tang is pretty hefty, so the diet isn't the issue.

Ich management only works if you catch the infection early enough and do it right. Once the number of trophonts on the fish reach a certain point (perhaps 30 or so spots on any one fish - and yours may be past that point) then "propagule pressure" comes into play, where the effects of the trophonts themselves stresses the fish and the ich management techniques start to fail.

If management fails, then you'll need to move to a proactive treatment phase where all of the fish are treated in isolation from invertebrates with either copper or hyposalinity.


Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hey all, here's some better pictures! View attachment 3166506View attachment 3166507View attachment 3166509

These are mucus cones associated with cryptocaryon (marine ich) and not surprised are Powder blues, like achilles tangs are susceptible to such for some reason. Fish as you can imagine needs to be placed in separate treatment tank and treated with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.

 

[Bhorsky]

That's marine ich, Cryptocaryon. There are other syndromes that cause salt-sized white spots on tangs, but the presence of spots on the clear portions of the fins is pretty definitive for ich.

Do ANY other fish in the tank show spots? Powder blues are notorious for showing ich in aquariums that generally don't have a big infection going on. If you don't see any other spots, you might get away with ich management in this case:

1) Use a strong UV sterilizer
2) Perform frequent water changes
3) Siphoning the sand early every morning
4) Good mechanical filtration to remove theronts
5) Low dose peroxide additions
6) provide a good diet - but in this case, the tang is pretty hefty, so the diet isn't the issue.

Ich management only works if you catch the infection early enough and do it right. Once the number of trophonts on the fish reach a certain point (perhaps 30 or so spots on any one fish - and yours may be past that point) then "propagule pressure" comes into play, where the effects of the trophonts themselves stresses the fish and the ich management techniques start to fail.

If management fails, then you'll need to move to a proactive treatment phase where all of the fish are treated in isolation from invertebrates with either copper or hyposalinity.


Jay

I believe it's the only fish, I am going to try management first. I have a 90gal QT tank cycled already but it's hard as hell to catch all the fish from my main display.