I can’t make my coral stay healthy!

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Mikey0909

Mikey0909

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A few suggestions

Stop using tap water. You just don’t know what is in it, could have copper, pesticides, fluoride, heavy metals, chloramine (which is different than chlorine). Get an RODI unit (even a $60 aquaticlife 50gpd unit would be a vast improvement, and would last at least six months). Or buy from an LFS or distilled from the grocery store. If you get an RODI Unit, make sure to get a pressure gauge and a TDS meter (both around $10)

Get a refractometer, hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate. Make sure to get some calibration fluid with it.

Get quality test kits, API at best gives a vague ballpark of where your parameters are, but the resolution is really useless for reefing applications (for example, the phosphate test kit goes from 0 to 0.25, in reefing we try to keep our phosphates between 0.03 and 0.08, so the API test is nowhere near specific enough). Salifert, Red Sea, Hanna, Nyos, Aqua Forest, and Tropic Marin are all quality

Your flow is likely completely inadequate. I generally recommend 40-70x tank volume turn over for a mixed reef. GPH is not a great way to gauge whether flow is adequate, but it’s a decent starting point. In my 28 gallon, I have roughly 2400gph (or 85x tank volume), granted it’s not all direct, laminar flow, it’s wide and pulses and alternates back and forth. I would recommend adding at least one more wavemaker, ideally something that is controllable that can be randomized or pulse.

As far as your parameters, it’s hard to trust API test results, but if they’re accurate, your calcium and phosphates are low and nitrates a little high. You mentioned using instant ocean salt, which mixes to around 10dkh, your test results (kh) equals roughly 7.9dkh, so I wonder how stable your Alk is. I would test it daily (at the same time each day) for a week to see how much Alk your tank is going through weekly/daily. If it’s substantial, you may need to start dosing a two part.

Overall, your coral doesn’t look too bad. The Xenia won’t grow on the substrate, so if you want it to grow more you’ll need to put it on a rock or some kind of solid surface. What settings do you have your light on? If you have it at 100%, it may be overkill. The tap water is probably your most pressing issue (could also be the cause of your algae issues).

Edit: after reading your later comments, I think it’s important to say, if you want to keep corals, you need to invest in proper test kits, it’s just part of keeping corals. It’s no different than investing in a UVB light if you keep reptiles or getting your dog vaccinated, it’s just one of the requirements for keeping these animals (at least if you want to do so ethically). Buying corals before buying quality test kits is putting the cart before the horse.
Thanks for the info, I think I will invest in an rodi system. What test kits would you Specifically recommend? My light is at 3/5 blue and 2/5 white not sure if that is good for a 100watt light the coral seem to like the light I’m gonna Guess that it is the parameters.
 

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Thanks for the info, I think I will invest in an rodi system. What test kits would you Specifically recommend? My light is at 3/5 blue and 2/5 white not sure if that is good for a 100watt light the coral seem to like the light I’m gonna Guess that it is the parameters.
For test kits, it depends on your budget, but this is what I use:
Alk: Salifert
Cal: Salifert
Mag: Salifert
Nitrate: Hanna HR (Salifert is a decent budget option)
Phosphate: Hanna ULR (Tropic Marin is a decent budget ).
PH: Salifert

Ideally you want to look for kits that have the best resolution (meaning the most specific results). Salifert, Red Sea, Nyos, Tropic Marin, and Aquaforest are all good, Hanna is generally considered to be the best (or at least the easiest to read, which is half the battle with test kits).
 
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Mikey0909

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For test kits, it depends on your budget, but this is what I use:
Alk: Salifert
Cal: Salifert
Mag: Salifert
Nitrate: Hanna HR (Salifert is a decent budget option)
Phosphate: Hanna ULR (Tropic Marin is a decent budget ).
PH: Salifert

Ideally you want to look for kits that have the best resolution (meaning the most specific results). Salifert, Red Sea, Nyos, Tropic Marin, and Aquaforest are all good, Hanna is generally considered to be the best (or at least the easiest to read, which is half the battle with test kits).
Okay, thanks. do you think my light settings are good or should I change them?
 

KevyKevTPA

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I'm glad you decided to get a RODI maker. One other thing, the yellow hue of the water just screams to me "I need carbon". You can get a jug of it pretty much anywhere that deals with aquariums, put some in a mesh bag, wash it out, and toss it in your sump somewhere. It'll blow your mind how rapidly and dramatically it will improve your water.
 

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First off your tank is still very young. You can always ad some “real” live rock to mature your tank faster. Definitely get RODI asap! I know ppl are obsessed with testing but I don’t bother. Been in the hobby closing in on 20 years now.
 
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Mikey0909

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I'm glad you decided to get a RODI maker. One other thing, the yellow hue of the water just screams to me "I need carbon". You can get a jug of it pretty much anywhere that deals with aquariums, put some in a mesh bag, wash it out, and toss it in your sump somewhere. It'll blow your mind how rapidly and dramatically it will improve your water.
I have carbon in my sump already
 
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Mikey0909

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You may want to change it, then. If you have enough fresh enough carbon, your water should not look that yellow. Unless your fish are starting to pee as much as humans do.
It does not look that yellow to me but I will replace the carbon as I probably should. How often should I? I have not replaced it in a few months. Also would you happen to recommend vibrant for algae?
 

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Surprised no one asked this yet. What's your light schedule, intensity, and kelvin? GSP should be growing like weed.
 
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Mikey0909

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Surprised no one asked this yet. What's your light schedule, intensity, and kelvin? GSP should be growing like weed.
That is what is confusing me, my Duncan has gone from 1 to five heads in 5 months but the GSP has gotten smaller. My light is 100 watts and 3/5 blue 2/5 white. My light goes for 10 hours. Not sure on the kelvin.
 

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That is what is confusing me, my Duncan has gone from 1 to five heads in 5 months but the GSP has gotten smaller. My light is 100 watts and 3/5 blue 2/5 white. My light goes for 10 hours. Not sure on the kelvin.

Some corals just don’t do well in some tanks. Sometimes it’s just not meant to be.
 

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Bring phosphate to .05-.1 and looks like it’s a mix reef with a bunch of Stoney coral bring the calcium up and have you tried dosing amino acids also the dkh could use a small boost also ditch the api test kits and get Hana if you can api are terrible
 
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Mikey0909

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Bring phosphate to .05-.1 and looks like it’s a mix reef with a bunch of Stoney coral bring the calcium up and have you tried dosing amino acids also the dkh could use a small boost also ditch the api test kits and get Hana if you can api are terrible
I dose amino acids every couple of days and I just started dosing two part because I’m quite sure I should be so I have to get the hang of that. I bought a couple of Red Sea test kits but they are expired not sure If they are going to be accurate or not.
 

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That would suck

Its the truth. Try some green pipe organ corals if GSP doesn’t do well.

Here is mine, as you can see it looks very similar to GSP:

02F00DAA-D869-4689-9A79-CE2E03C8EB31.jpeg
 

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It does not look that yellow to me but I will replace the carbon as I probably should. How often should I? I have not replaced it in a few months. Also would you happen to recommend vibrant for algae?
Just read a thread on here on how bad vibrant Is .check it out
 
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