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Yes, yes she is. We are blessed to have her here to help us!
How to Quarantine
- Thread starter Humblefish
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Yes the flukes are holding on for their lives. Litaririly lol
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Question.. I want to get my QT going but my tank is in the process of getting finished. Do I start with HOB filer and use Dr. tims to start the cycle ? or Can I just do RODI water/ salt in water ?
You will want to have a bacteria population in your bio filter before putting fish in your QT. If you can't seed it from your DT, you would need to use something like Dr. Tims or Biospira, yes.
Ok so you add the sponge so what you do when you add cupramone? Then you need to add prazi.. do you remove the sponge when you add these medications? Or anything in the hob filter?
You add the sponge a week or so before you are needing to QT fish. Start dosing a bacteria in a bottle product, so the nitrifying bacteria contained therein can embed into the sponge and begin propagating. You leave the sponge in the filter during the entire QT period - start to finish.
This sticky provides more detailed info: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ammonia-control-in-a-hospital-tank.296119/
Thank for the reply humble but if that's the case and you add copper won't the copper be in the sponge or will running carbon clean it out so you can dose prazi after for example
The copper will inundate the sponge and kill some of the nitrifying bacteria contained therein, but they will quickly adapt and repropagate themselves. Copper is not a threat to bacteria in the long-term.
Carbon is not the best for removing copper. Water changes and running a poly filter is much more effective: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4335
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I would add that the trace amount of copper left in the sponge won't impact any meds you may need to add after you pull the copper out of the system.
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Hey @Humblefish, hope everything is great with you and your family. One question: I typically use Seachem's Matrix Media that I have in my main tank sump and place it in the QT to have instant biological filtration going (it works great by the way, and never detected any absorption of Cupramine). I now want to put this media back in the Display tank and have done the following:
1 - Used Cuprisorb to remove Copper from the QT;
2 - Emptied the QT and filled it (with the media in the filter inside) with tap water and added bleach for disinfection;
3 - After one week emptied the tank, filled with Tap water and added PRIME declorinator;
4 - Left it alone for a couple of months (actually, forgot it there )
5 - Gave it another bleach bath, followed by rinsing and more PRIME
6 - Left it out in the sun for a number of days
Would you say this is safe to add back to the main display??? This stuff is kind of expensive so would not want to keep buying new but also do not want to risk adding copper or bleach to the display.
Thanks!
1 - Used Cuprisorb to remove Copper from the QT;
2 - Emptied the QT and filled it (with the media in the filter inside) with tap water and added bleach for disinfection;
3 - After one week emptied the tank, filled with Tap water and added PRIME declorinator;
4 - Left it alone for a couple of months (actually, forgot it there )
5 - Gave it another bleach bath, followed by rinsing and more PRIME
6 - Left it out in the sun for a number of days
Would you say this is safe to add back to the main display??? This stuff is kind of expensive so would not want to keep buying new but also do not want to risk adding copper or bleach to the display.
Thanks!
@Humblefish What should I do if I dosed way too much Coppersafe into a 55 Gallon QT. API Copper Test reading 4.0 Million PPM. I did a 50% water change and will retest tonight. Hoping the 50% waterchange would dilute the Copper to 2.0 PPM. All fish are eating but breathing heavily. Any long term effects I need to worry about. All but one fish were eating still. I am just an idiot and does Tablespoons instead of Teaspoons. It was at 4.0 for 24 hours before I noticed the labor breathing, tested and realized my mistake, and did a quick water change.
Also if you have experience with the API test kit do you look down on the tube and is the tube held directly against the white background to compare. I ask because the test vile is darker of course put directly against the white paper to compare (not allowing any light through the bottom of the 5 ML vile).
Also if you have experience with the API test kit do you look down on the tube and is the tube held directly against the white background to compare. I ask because the test vile is darker of course put directly against the white paper to compare (not allowing any light through the bottom of the 5 ML vile).
@Jon Smith Most likely you will be OK. It takes long-term exposure to elevated copper levels to do any lasting damage.
I hold the vial directly against the white background, but it has been suggested that hovering it slightly over the white part makes it easier to read. IMO & E; viewing it under natural (but indirect) sunlight is the key.
I hold the vial directly against the white background, but it has been suggested that hovering it slightly over the white part makes it easier to read. IMO & E; viewing it under natural (but indirect) sunlight is the key.
Thank you! I won't be able to add any fish to the main system until 10/25 so I have lots of time to properly QT the last remaining 2 fish from the display and new additions to go back in.
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