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Sounds like an Ich management discussion vs Ich cure. Since much in this hobby is based on anecdotal experience as well as scientific research--it is not surprising we would have diverse opinions. That's one of the great values in R2R.
Yes, but the problem is that this is not a thread to discuss management vs cure. This is called "How to Quarantine" and not "Should I quarantine". It is an incredibly valuable source of info on how to do it properly with a lot of effort from highly experienced people such as humblefish or Melypr, and this arguments will only derail the thread and potentially confuse new reefers.
Additionally though "ich management" may work for some (until some stress element causes an outbreak and wipes out your fish), I believe there is no such thing as "Velvet management" or other diseases that can be prevented with proper quarantine procedures.
It is great that R2R is this friendly community where there is freedom of speech. But as the saying goes, with great power comes great responsibility.
If someone has strong views about ich/velvet management than by all means let's start a thread and bring people from both camps to share experiences and elevate the discussion.
Followed your suggestion and put him in DT...2 days now...eating, looks good, no signs of anything...all other guys seem fine...so shall we knock on wood?Humble Bobby...that Singapore has been in QT for a week...I changed water on Sunday, replaced the CP and Ammo Lock...cleaned filter in old water, put in Algone to clear the water...water is more cloudy than ever...the angelfish hides most of the time...body still looks fine, never saw velvet on him only behavioral stuff...not eating good...afraid he won't survive this QT...since I never took the other fish out of DT for fallow, what do you think...anything to lose if I put him back in...hasn't done any behavioral things since in QT...upsetting situation...I realize that its a gamble either way...all fish in DT seem fine...thanks...
Well not so good anymore...in DT he is flashing a lot...working on a good QT...not ready yet...as we speak, no one else is showing symptoms he is eating...had one spot near his tail which has disappeared...should I expect the piscine hallaucost or is it possible that we have a different diagnosis...tried to get him out and put him in cloudy QT, but even after taking most rock out, he hid and I had had enough for one day...I think that we did not knock on wood enough...KenFollowed your suggestion and put him in DT...2 days now...eating, looks good, no signs of anything...all other guys seem fine...so shall we knock on wood?
Well not so good anymore...in DT he is flashing a lot...working on a good QT...not ready yet...as we speak, no one else is showing symptoms he is eating...had one spot near his tail which has disappeared...should I expect the piscine hallaucost or is it possible that we have a different diagnosis...tried to get him out and put him in cloudy QT, but even after taking most rock out, he hid and I had had enough for one day...I think that we did not knock on wood enough...Ken
few days...he's eating and all but still flashing...no one else seems affected...so far...preparing a new 30 gal. QT, but with cycling be a while...also since i really don't trust my DT to bacteria-up a new sponge, how would you recommend I cycle...don't like the idea of hurting a molly unless they are resistant to ammonia...Thanks...yeah, "dang" is right...Dang. How long was the spot on his tail there?
.also since i really don't trust my DT to bacteria-up a new sponge, how would you recommend I cycle...
I've tried some of those things...not too successful...can you recommend a brand that will really work...?...Live and not dormant...name names...thanks...I would get a sponge and some bacteria in a bottle. Choose a brand that is live and not dormant. Put the sponge in a bowl or a bucket and pour the whole bottle on top and let it soak for an hour or so. The idea is to let the bacteria find a place to settle on the sponge. After the hour or so, you'll place the sponge in the filter and pour all the liquid in with it. Turn things on and and your off to the races.
Just ordered Fritzyme 9...all live...looks good and I'll follow what you said...I've tried some of those things...not too successful...can you recommend a brand that will really work...?...Live and not dormant...name names...thanks...
I've tried some of those things...not too successful...can you recommend a brand that will really work...?...Live and not dormant...name names...thanks...
ordered Fritz Aquatics #9 from SWA.com...seems to be all live...The fact that swa.com sells it seems good too...thanks...As per @Brew12, I believe both Dr Tims and Bio-spira contains live, nitrifying bacteria ready to go to work.
Meredith...things with my angel and the rest are no worse and no better...he eats, swims, but does some flashing and does tend to spend time in the current... every one else is fine so far...how much time can go by when I relax...or is the fuse already lighted and it is inevitable...just got tiger pods and they go in tonight...take care...Dang. How long was the spot on his tail there?
Meredith...things with my angel and the rest are no worse and no better...he eats, swims, but does some flashing and does tend to spend time in the current... every one else is fine so far...how much time can go by when I relax...or is the fuse already lighted and it is inevitable...just got tiger pods and they go in tonight...take care...
I have a Current Gamma with an 8 watt bulb...can I increase the bulb wattage in this unit...I understand you need at least 15 watts to kill parasites...Thanks@Congaken If you haven't already, I would open a non-QT related thread of your own (maybe even in the Fish Discussion section) so you can have the freedom to discuss other non-QT related things like....
If you aren't already using UV and/or a diatom filter on that display, this would have been the right time.
Either one or both would help cut back the number of infective agents your fish need to fight off.
I don't think it would be too late to add now since you only have one fish with symptoms.
Everyone makes a UV, so if you get one just make sure you understand the correct installation to get the right dosage rate
Vortex XL diatom filters are still on the market and they also make a pump-less canister version. Marineland also has their in-tank diatom filter called a "polishing filter". Either one should be a help!
Perhaps I missed this somewhere but if not, would someone please describe the method(s) they use for the cleaning/sterilization of their QT tanks between occupancies? This is especially meant for those of us who keep their tanks up and operating permanently. Also, how long should these procedures take? Which products? And don't skimp on any details please. I'd imagine their are just as many rights and wrongs in maintaning a properly operating quaratine tank between fish as there are during fish. TIA.