How to glue/seal acrylic?

[45ZoaGarden]

How do you glue/seal acrylic? I’m considering making an overflow box similar to the eshopps eclipse. I’m trying to figure out how to do the external box. How could I glue the acrylic sheets together? I’m assuming 100% silicon will not hold the acrylic together. The box will be OUTSIDE the tank so I want to do this right and keep it sealed up. Water on the floor is a dealbreaker for the wife.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

This is the acrylic part I’m trying to make

https://media.cdn.bulkreefsupply.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/0741fc90a37b632683e9ae9c89ce6475/2/1/211315-eclipse-s-overflow-box-eshopps.png

 

[AlexG]

Weld-On 4 works for small acrylic projects. Make sure to get a couple of small applicator bottles with it.

 

[mfinn]

The box will be OUTSIDE the tank so I want to do this right and keep it sealed up. Water on the floor is a dealbreaker for the wife.

The only glue that will work is specific acrylic glue. Everything else will fail.
Your cuts on the acrylic need to be clean and smooth and perfectly straight.
If you want to start experimenting with building with acrylic, I would suggest you try other projects that don't involve water outside the the tank.
Once you see how critical getting it perfect is, then go on to harder projects.
In the meantime, those eshopps kits aren't all the expensive, considering the trouble water on the floor can cause at home.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

The only glue that will work is specific acrylic glue. Everything else will fail.
Your cuts on the acrylic need to be clean and smooth and perfectly straight.
If you want to start experimenting with building with acrylic, I would suggest you try other projects that don't involve water outside the the tank.
Once you see how critical getting it perfect is, then go on to harder projects.
In the meantime, those eshopps kits aren't all the expensive, considering the trouble water on the floor can cause at home.

I have access to my buddy’s wood shop with all the tools you could imagine. Wouldn’t a table saw with a really high tooth count do the job?

 

[mcdrichj]

Is this going on a glass or acrylic tank? I'm guessing you are asking for your JBJ which im guessing is glass. If its going on a glass tank I would recommend using glass and silicone and sealing it right to the back of the tank. If you do use acrylic (on a glass tank) it needs to be sealed on all 4 sides and go though with a bulkhead. If you do use a bulkhead make sure there is a rubber gasket on the inside of both the tank and the box and use teflon tape to seal the threads.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

Is this going on a glass or acrylic tank? I'm guessing you are asking for your JBJ which im guessing is glass. If its going on a glass tank I would recommend using glass and silicone and sealing it right to the back of the tank. If you do use acrylic (on a glass tank) it needs to be sealed on all 4 sides and go though with a bulkhead. If you do use a bulkhead make sure there is a rubber gasket on the inside of both the tank and the box and use teflon tape to seal the threads.

Yes, it is for my jbj which is glass. I was going to do it as a four sided box attached with a bulkhead. I don’t want to permanently attach a glass one to the back with silicon. I’d like the option to take the overflow box out if I get need to modify or get a new one

 

[mcdrichj]

Yes, it is for my jbj which is glass. I was going to do it as a four sided box attached with a bulkhead. I don’t want to permanently attach a glass one to the back with silicon. I’d like the option to take the overflow box out if I get need to modify or get a new one

It would be relatively easy to remove the glass overflow box using a razer blade to cut the silicone then scrape off the excess. Silicone isnt permanent on glass like welding acrylic.

 

[crusso1993]

I have access to my buddy’s wood shop with all the tools you could imagine. Wouldn’t a table saw with a really high tooth count do the job?

When cutting acrylic, it is highly recommended to use a blade designed for acrylic/plastic as they give a cleaner cut without any melting of the plastic. Freud makes several blades for plastic and are relatively inexpensive when compared to other blades like FTM.

As for putting teflon tape on threaded PVC fittings; this is a commonly practiced misnomer. Never, and I repeat, never use teflon tape on PVC fittings. Below is some very useful information from one of the largest PVC manufacturers.

Assembling Threaded Plastic Fittings | LASCO Fittings

www.lascofittings.com

 

[mfinn]

I have access to my buddy’s wood shop with all the tools you could imagine. Wouldn’t a table saw with a really high tooth count do the job?

Not really. Even acrylic blades leave groves. A joiner is the tool to have.

 

[mcdrichj]

When cutting acrylic, it is highly recommended to use a blade designed for acrylic/plastic as they give a cleaner cut without any melting of the plastic. Freud makes several blades for plastic and are relatively inexpensive when compared to other blades like FTM.

As for putting teflon tape on threaded PVC fittings; this is a commonly practiced misnomer. Never, and I repeat, never use teflon tape on PVC fittings. Below is some very useful information from one of the largest PVC manufacturers.

Assembling Threaded Plastic Fittings | LASCO Fittings

www.lascofittings.com

I didn't know this however I only hand tighten when I have used this in the past so im guessing thats why I havent had an issue. Thanks for the knowledge!

 

[crusso1993]

Not really. Even acrylic blades leave groves. A joiner is the tool to have.

A TMF blade on a panel saw leaves no grooves. However, a $200+ blade on a $2,000+ saw isn't a viable option for everyone. I agree, on smaller pieces, a jointer is nice to have and use.

@45ZoaGarden - where will you be getting the acrylic? I ask because, depending on where you live, you may be able to find an acryilic supplier and have them cut the pieces you need from scrap they have laying around. Might be worth a couple phone calls.

 

[crusso1993]

I didn't know this however I only hand tighten when I have used this in the past so im guessing thats why I havent had an issue. Thanks for the knowledge!

Always happy to pass on what's been passed on to me. Pass it on...

 

[Biokabe]

Honestly, once you price out acrylic, you'll see that most of the parts made with it (like overflow boxes) are not that expensive in comparison to the price of the acrylic itself. I'm toying with the idea of making some containers for an automatic water change system, and while there are some price savings involved in building them myself, I'll probably just buy some commercially made containers.

For example, a 5-gallon acrylic water container sells for about $100. If I were to make a 7-gallon container, it would cost me about $72 in acrylic, to say nothing for my time or the fact that the fumes from making it will make me sick for a day or two. My advice, pay the money for a commercially made overflow box. Your cost savings in making it yourself won't be that great, and to my mind the peace of mind from a professionally made item is worth it for something as critical as an overflow box.

If you do decide to make it yourself, Weld-on #4, #16 or #40 should all work for your needs. You'll likely need to go to a specialty shop or put aside plenty of time to have it shipped - most of the big-box stores don't carry acrylic glue, and shippers won't ship most acrylic glues except by ground shipping. Make sure you use it in a well-ventilated space, and use gloves. I mostly use #16, which has a very runny consistency - it almost comes out of the tube just by tipping it slightly.

Most places that sell acrylic by the sheet will also cut to size, so you can save yourself some time by planning out your pieces ahead of time and having them cut that way to begin with. I'll typically only cut acrylic myself when precision isn't important - it's not as difficult to cut as people like to pretend it is, but it is very difficult to get a precision cut unless you have specialist (read: expensive) tools. If you must cut acrylic yourself, you have a few options. For large-scale cuts, a table or circular saw (table is better) with a specialty plastic blade is best. You can use a jigsaw or bandsaw to do curves, but you have to be very careful - stressing the material incorrectly can crack it. A hacksaw with a fine-tooth blade can work by hand. Finally, a router with the correct bit can help you do precision work or small jobs.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

I was just gonna order it from lowes. I could see if anybody in the area will do that...

A TMF blade on a panel saw leaves no grooves. However, a $200+ blade on a $2,000+ saw isn't a viable option for everyone. I agree, on smaller pieces, a jointer is nice to have and use.

@45ZoaGarden - where will you be getting the acrylic? I ask because, depending on where you live, you may be able to find an acryilic supplier and have them cut the pieces you need from scrap they have laying around. Might be worth a couple phone calls.

 

[BornHandy]

An acrylic blade at around $100 on amazon I think... If you use a wood blade, get a low angle tooth grind, 0 degrees is best. If you have a router table available to you, you can cut close with a wood blade, then clean it up on the router table...

Spiral "o flute" router bits work best for acrylic, but big box stores aren't going to have them. A high rpm super sharp blade will work in a pinch...

Either way, you'll have to scrape the cut clean and smooth with a scraper. The back of a hack saw blade will work in a pinch.

Good luck!

 

[crusso1993]

An acrylic blade at around $100 on amazon I think... If you use a wood blade, get a low angle tooth grind, 0 degrees is best. If you have a router table available to you, you can cut close with a wood blade, then clean it up on the router table...

Spiral "o flute" router bits work best for acrylic, but big box stores aren't going to have them. A high rpm super sharp blade will work in a pinch...

Either way, you'll have to scrape the cut clean and smooth with a scraper. The back of a hack saw blade will work in a pinch.

Good luck!

Sounds like you are very familar with "working in a pinch!" Lol

Simply joking with you. I've seen some of your projects and videos. Good stuff!

 

[45ZoaGarden]

I got a terrible idea. Lol. There are a couple eshopps hob overflow boxes for sale in my area for $40. Do you think that I could drill both boxes as well as the tank and just use that with some bulkheads? I would also drill the bottom of the box and install an emergency overflow.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

From a hobbyist perspective, I have dabbled a bit in making things out of acrylic for my tank. I've even made an outside the tank overflow like you're wanting to make.

I've made a few sumps:

I'm not set up for acrylic work, more for woodworing. What I suggest is to cut slightly larger with the table saw and either use a jointer to clean the edges or a router table. I prefer the router table because it produces a cleaner edge, your buddy with the woodshop can help with setting it all up.

when ready to bond with weldon 3 or 4, I use acupuncture needles (pennies on amazon) to provide a space between the 2 pieces to be joined so that the weldon can soften the acrylic and create a uniform bond. after about 30 seconds remove the needles and let the 2 pieces join, allowing them to set for a few hours to completely cure before moving onto the next bond, then simply rinse and repeat.

Practice on scrap acrylic to get a feel for it, but definitely something that you can do yourself.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

I love that cube sump you made!