How to fully protect your tank from electrical hazards?

[Raphael Dalmeida]

Hi guys,

I've been keeping my friend's Nano Tank at my place while he's away, and today when i went to put my hand in the water to fix a fallen SPS i got a heck of a shock.

Got the multimeter and the tank was reading 210 volts. Managed to single out that his Chiller Pump was the cause for it.

Now, it got me thinking about my own tank as well and how dangerous this can be.
I have no safety devices and my tanks equipment's are connected through 2 of those power strips below and connected through an extension to a wall socket.

What are all of the safety precautions that would not only prevent me from being electrocuted, but also it'd cut the power in case it happened.

I've done a lot of reading but it's still unclear - most seem to recommend a GFCI Breaker. In the end there are a lot of equipment connected to those power strips i need a solution that would make everything safe, also keen for suggestions on Heater thermostat controllers, and best practices (e.g.: things that should not be done at all - using adapters? connecting 2 power strips to an extension lead?).


Also is there a reason why my house circuit breaker did not trip when i got the shock? I removed my hand by reflex fairly quick - but i would expect that it should have tripped.

I've also read parts where people say ground probe and no ground probe, and that GFCI wouldn't prevent a shock but trip it to reduce it's seriousness (i'd rather have something that would prevent the shock as well - if there's such a thing).

This was dangerous and i want to make sure it never happens again .

Thanks!

 

[JoJosReef]

Following

 

[Alexraptor]

For one thing, I'd suggest a master shut-off switch for all in-tank equipment. As a rule of thumb it's always best to make sure there is no live power being fed into the tank while you are working in it. (A rule i myself, break all too often)

I think some pumps and equipment even have warnings in the saftely instructions to that effect.

 

[Paul B]

I am not sure how you got 210 volts unless you are in Europe.

We here in the US have 110 volts. We get 220 volts but we would have to measure two hot likes at the same time and there is no electrical equipment in the US that is 220 volts for a home tank.

I think you are reading something incorrectly or have your meter on the wrong scale.

Anyway, your breaker didn't trip because you were the load and your body didn't get the full 15 or 20 amp load because of the resistance of the water. In other words, your circuit breaker just "thought" you were a heater, motor or some other normal electrical device.

Breakers also take some time to trip and it doesn't usually happen instantaneously.

A ground probe would have eliminated that shock but a GFCI is better. Both of those things is the best thing you could do.

Master Electrician 50 years.

 

[braaap]

I am not sure how you got 210 volts unless you are in Europe.

We here in the US have 110 volts. We get 220 volts but we would have to measure two hot likes at the same time and there is no electrical equipment in the US that is 220 volts for a home tank.

I think you are reading something incorrectly or have your meter on the wrong scale.

Anyway, your breaker didn't trip because you were the load and your body didn't get the full 15 or 20 amp load because of the resistance of the water. In other words, your circuit breaker just "thought" you were a heater, motor or some other normal electrical device.

Breakers also take some time to trip and it doesn't usually happen instantaneously.

A ground probe would have eliminated that shock but a GFCI is better. Both of those things is the best thing you could do.

Master Electrician 50 years.

You couldn’t look at his power bar image and gather that he wasn’t in North America?

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

I am not sure how you got 210 volts unless you are in Europe.

We here in the US have 110 volts. We get 220 volts but we would have to measure two hot likes at the same time and there is no electrical equipment in the US that is 220 volts for a home tank.

I think you are reading something incorrectly or have your meter on the wrong scale.

Anyway, your breaker didn't trip because you were the load and your body didn't get the full 15 or 20 amp load because of the resistance of the water. In other words, your circuit breaker just "thought" you were a heater, motor or some other normal electrical device.

Breakers also take some time to trip and it doesn't usually happen instantaneously.

A ground probe would have eliminated that shock but a GFCI is better. Both of those things is the best thing you could do.

Master Electrician 50 years.

I'm in Australia 220v is the norm here, although most aquarium equipment sold here for in tank stuff usually has a 12v or 24v conversion/supply.

My friends pump that failed most likely is from Europe, as the power plug is a 2 pin 220v European one without a ground (earth) pin. The Australian standard is 3 pin (one earth). Although regardless where we are at, I suppose most of the safety practices would apply anywhere.

It was 210 in the water, the whole reason I got the multimeter to check as I've had a similar shock years ago in my life when I touched a live wire, different to low voltage shocks. (My poor heart ).

Anyway...

Regarding what you said, to get a grounding probe and a GFCI together.

Would it be a GFCI power strip and every single equipment connected to each plug? Meaning if something leaks electricity it would cut the power to the individual equipment?

Also I've read people say that a ground probe can make things worse, would you know how is that ? And how a grounding probe should be used together with a GFCI?


I'd also be interested in any other recommendations or what would be the gold standard setup? No $$ spare in terms of safety.
Keen to hear what sort of setup some people might have here in the forum to ensure their safety.

For one thing, I'd suggest a master shut-off switch for all in-tank equipment. As a rule of thumb it's always best to make sure there is no live power being fed into the tank while you are working in it. (A rule i myself, break all too often)

I think some pumps and equipment even have warnings in the saftely instructions to that effect.

Appreciate the input, though if I had to cut off the whole tank power whenever I adjust something in it I probably would leave the hobby, it'd be the equivalent to "living in fear", plus It could damage the equipment if I'm turning on/off all the time.

We all have that urchin, or that invert that moves things around occasionally, And have to fix things up, or syphon some algae, put that daily nori sheet in the water.


Thanks for the responses

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

Also just to add in my own tank a lot of the equipment has the supply unit that converts it to 12v/24v which is great.

Though things such as heaters, chiller, one or other pump, UV light, skimmer (maybe) are 220v AC.

I'd say my priority would be for the high voltage ones.

Correction as well, I'm actually using 2 of the power strips each connected to a separate extension lead and each lead connected to a wall plug. Every wall plug here In Australia by law has a switch (meaning both can be turned off on the wall worst case scenario).

Anyway, keen to see if there's info anywhere or folks here can shared what would be the best ways to make it safe.

 

[gbroadbridge]

Hi guys,

I've been keeping my friend's Nano Tank at my place while he's away, and today when i went to put my hand in the water to fix a fallen SPS i got a heck of a shock.

Got the multimeter and the tank was reading 210 volts. Managed to single out that his Chiller Pump was the cause for it.

Now, it got me thinking about my own tank as well and how dangerous this can be.
I have no safety devices and my tanks equipment's are connected through 2 of those power strips below and connected through an extension to a wall socket.

What are all of the safety precautions that would not only prevent me from being electrocuted, but also it'd cut the power in case it happened.

I've done a lot of reading but it's still unclear - most seem to recommend a GFCI Breaker. In the end there are a lot of equipment connected to those power strips i need a solution that would make everything safe, also keen for suggestions on Heater thermostat controllers, and best practices (e.g.: things that should not be done at all - using adapters? connecting 2 power strips to an extension lead?).


Also is there a reason why my house circuit breaker did not trip when i got the shock? I removed my hand by reflex fairly quick - but i would expect that it should have tripped.

I've also read parts where people say ground probe and no ground probe, and that GFCI wouldn't prevent a shock but trip it to reduce it's seriousness (i'd rather have something that would prevent the shock as well - if there's such a thing).

This was dangerous and i want to make sure it never happens again .

Thanks!

As you're in Australia ...

Ideally you should get an electrician to install an RCBO to replace the Circuit breaker or fuse in your switchboard.

Alternately, you should replace those powerboards with models with built in RCD protection.
Bunnings have heaps of models from HPM or Arlec.

You should not be using an extension cord from the wall outlet to the powerboard, if necessary have outlets installed near the tank.

 

[Raphael Dalmeida]

As you're in Australia ...

Ideally you should get an electrician to install an RCBO to replace the Circuit breaker or fuse in your switchboard.

Alternately, you should replace those powerboards with models with built in RCD protection.
Bunnings have heaps of models from HPM or Arlec.

You should not be using an extension cord from the wall outlet to the powerboard, if necessary have outlets installed near the tank.

Thanks man, these are some of the info I'm looking for.

I could get an outlet installed near the tank, I'd still require a longer cord for a power strip (like at least 1.5 metre long).

Regarding the RCBO would it be a partial replacement on my RCD or would it mean a total replacement ? And it would work similar to a GFCI and trip in the scenario any electricity leaks?

An RCD power strip would break it in case there's electricity leaking in the water ? what safeguard itd provide additional RCD installed in my house?

Cheers,

 

[tedfisher496]

Hi guys,

I've been keeping my friend's Nano Tank at my place while he's away, and today when i went to put my hand in the water to fix a fallen SPS i got a heck of a shock.

Got the multimeter and the tank was reading 210 volts. Managed to single out that his Chiller Pump was the cause for it.

Now, it got me thinking about my own tank as well and how dangerous this can be.
I have no safety devices and my tanks equipment's are connected through 2 of those power strips below and connected through an extension to a wall socket.

What are all of the safety precautions that would not only prevent me from being electrocuted, but also it'd cut the power in case it happened.

I've done a lot of reading but it's still unclear - most seem to recommend a GFCI Breaker. In the end there are a lot of equipment connected to those power strips i need a solution that would make everything safe, also keen for suggestions on Heater thermostat controllers, and best practices (e.g.: things that should not be done at all - using adapters? connecting 2 power strips to an extension lead?).


Also is there a reason why my house circuit breaker did not trip when i got the shock? I removed my hand by reflex fairly quick - but i would expect that it should have tripped.

I've also read parts where people say ground probe and no ground probe, and that GFCI wouldn't prevent a shock but trip it to reduce it's seriousness (i'd rather have something that would prevent the shock as well - if there's such a thing).

This was dangerous and i want to make sure it never happens again .

Thanks!

Ive been doing residential electrical for over 15 years. Regardless of what you read or hear you should always use a gfi or gfci yes their is a difference between the two.

GFI ground fault interrupter is usually a receptacle.

GFCI ground fault circuit interrupter is usually a braker.


The reasons people say dont use them on your aquarium is AC causes issues with the electronics and you will get nuisance tripping.

From my experience this issue has been solved and the codes have changed for where GFCI and GFI are required.

I have been using a 20A breaker for a few years with out issue, I am using a DC return pump and 2 mp10 for a few years.

My recommendation is to use a gfci and a whole house surge arrestor to protect all the electronics in the entire house.

 

[Paul B]

You couldn’t look at his power bar image and gather that he wasn’t in North America?

I guess I could have, but I must have chose not to . But my answer is the same...Almost.

You couldn’t look at his power bar image and gather that he wasn’t in North America?

 

[gbroadbridge]

Thanks man, these are some of the info I'm looking for.

I could get an outlet installed near the tank, I'd still require a longer cord for a power strip (like at least 1.5 metre long).

If you can, get an RCBO (what they call a GFCI in America) installed in the switchboard for the circuit for the fish tank.

If that is too expensive, you can use a portable RCBO device plugged into the outlet.

The advantage of putting the safety device in the switchboard is that you are certain that the circuit is always protected.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

I guess I could have, but I must have chose not to . But my answer is the same...Almost.

could you imagine having 240v at every receptacle!!!! It seems a little unnecessary just to watch some tv.

 

[Paul B]

could you imagine having 240v at every receptacle!!!! It seems a little unnecessary just to watch some tv.

I know, and I just don't get it.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I want to add something that @Paul B mentioned regarding your breaker not tripping.

Keep in mind that a circuit breaker is NOT meant to protect you (or the equipment that is plugged in). The circuit breakers purpose is to protect the wire and prevent it from overheating.

I would also add that I am not a fan of "ground probes" for many reason - but if you do decide to use one, then the entire aquarium and everything near by needs to be GFCI (RCBO in EU/AU) protected.

The power strips are also something that need to be looked at carefully, as there are vast differences in quality. Opt only for plug strips that have actual individual receptacles. The plug strips picture above are inexpensive and prone to poor connection in humid/salty environments. This can easily cause arcing that can start a fire.

Easier to post a link that explain

Power Strip Safety | BeanAnimal's Reef

Why most outlet strips (plug strips, outlet bars) are not suitable for aquariums and can cause injury or death. What to look for in a suitable and safe product.

beananimal.com

Be careful with GFI/RCD power strips and extension cords. Many don't auto reset after a power outage.

 

[braaap]

I guess I could have, but I must have chose not to . But my answer is the same...Almost.

And that is one of the major problems of society today. Choosing to ignore facts and then offering their own opinion.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I know, and I just don't get it.

I think evidence points to 110 simply being an artifact of the original Edison bulb's filaments being only able to handle 110 volts. Edison designed his original distribution system around 110 but ran into voltage drop issues, that begat 110/220 with a neutral.

By the time the system was accepted here, the tungsten bulb was invented and Europe was being electrified. The tungsten bulb could handle 220V and Europe opted to distribute 220V single phase. They were not invested in the 110 system or cotton/bamboo Edison style bulbs.

So we chugged away with 110 and built around it and all countries associated with the Europe (Canada being the exception) went with 220. Clearly as both US and European system generation capacity scaled up to high voltage transmission, utilization devices remained at their historical voltages and here we are.

Mixed in here is the whole AC/DC battle and a bunch of other cool history.

But in the end blame history and Edison

 

[BeanAnimal]

And that is one of the major problems of society today. Choosing to ignore facts and then offering their own opinion.

Hi - Paul clearly indicated that his comments regarding voltage were assuming US power. The important part of his response regarding safety and circuit breaker operation is not opinion and not dependent on the "voltage".

 

[BeanAnimal]

and that GFCI wouldn't prevent a shock but trip it to reduce it's seriousness (i'd rather have something that would prevent the shock as well - if there's such a thing).

This was dangerous and i want to make sure it never happens again .

Defining what a "shock" is in the sense of feeling it severity may be difficult- but the GFCI/RCBO senses a mismatch in current between the two wires that power your device.

Think of it as a "leak" detector. Electricity is sent down one wire, through the device and then returned through the other wire. If the detector senses missing current in the return wire, then it trips.

The "trip" time is milliseconds for most devices and the current threshold (the amount of leak) is very small. Somewhere less than 40ms and 30ma - so max 1/25 of a second (half a cycle at 50Hz) and about .03 amps.

Will you feel it? More than likely, yes. But the thresholds are set to prevent it from being dangerous.

 

[captainsmitty]

You couldn’t look at his power bar image and gather that he wasn’t in North America?

Really no need to be snarky about it. Could have said Please look at his power bar.