How bad is my electrical situation?

[JoJosReef]

I have all of the tank equipment running on one outlet. This is Griswold Family Xmas level overuse of an outlet, I think. How bad is this? What do you think the real risk is? Should I trail some extension cords from the other wall outlets over to split this all up?

All of this:

Going into this smart outlet that is plugged into one socket:

Equipment plugged in:
2x Mightyjet 536gph return pumps
3x Noopsyche Mini LEDs
1x Air stone
1x Maxspect Jump 2k Gyre
1x Helio ATO
1x Inkbird with:
-- Finnex 300W heating element (should be off most of the time since Helio keeps the temp)
-- USB outlet splitter with 3 USB fans for cooling mode
1x Frigidaire mini fridge (real fridge, not one of the wine cooler types).

Thanks!

 

[sc50964]

What I do as a general rule of thumb is to 1) spread it out to as many outlets as possible and 2) add up all the wattage I want to plug into a certain outlet and then buy a surge protector that has a healthy margin over that total sum. Not an electrician. Not an expert. Just thought it made sense.

And always have a GFCI on that circuit.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Calculate your wattage and then determine if you need to think it over or not. I have waaayyy more plugged up into one 2 plug outlet, but total amperage is consistently at or under 5 amps. Max with both aquarium heaters, lights and pumps is right @ 7a.

 

[Bruttall]

Using other outlets, if they are on same circuit won't help. I added a 25amp breaker to my box, dedicated only for pump and wave makers, skimmer etc. And another for lights only. Contact a qualified electrician if you don't know how to do this yourself.

 

[snorklr]

gfi's usually dont play well with refrigerators and may nuisance trip...splitting your stuff up between circuits will prevent a total shutdown...power heads on a different circuit than main pump so there will still be flow if one trips...heater on different circuit than main pump as heater most likely to fail and trip, etc

 

[The_Paradox]

gfi's usually dont play well with refrigerators and may nuisance trip...splitting your stuff up between circuits will prevent a total shutdown...power heads on a different circuit than main pump so there will still be flow if one trips...heater on different circuit than main pump as heater most likely to fail and trip, etc

I run all my devices off a single racked PDU for the opposite reason. Last thing I want is just sump getting dosed, or lights on but chiller off. Idea setup is single ups or power bank to a PDU. As for OP setup it should be fine as power draw is pretty low. If in doubt just clamp the load on the main cord.

 

[snorklr]

so then what happens when a heater dead shorts trips a breaker and electrifies the tank? unfortunately i'm old school and have no idea what a PDU, UPS, or power bank are...and judging by his question i doubt the OP knows either

 

[The_Paradox]

so then what happens when a heater dead shorts trips a breaker and electrifies the tank? unfortunately i'm old school and have no idea what a PDU, UPS, or power bank are...and judging by his question i doubt the OP knows either

Depends on the UPS and how many rails it has and if they are isolated. Better ones will only cut the power to the device or rail that is shorted and keep other circuits energized. Set up properly this way to trip the main you have to have something really jacked up happen.

 

[stevolough]

Not over loading a circuit is obviously the most important. I think what gets overlooked is air circulation around the cords and power bricks. I try to keep my 120 volt cords separated and elevate the bricks on metal brackets kind of like the heat sinks we used to use on vho ballasts. And don’t forget those drip loops!!!

 

[Pistondog]

Please use gfci protected outlets. Divide loads over multiple circuits, not outlets if desired.

 

[sc50964]

I am pretty paranoid with this too. Got quite a few waterproof extension cord boxes from Thonapa

 

[FrugalReefer]

I’m a 20 year electrician and use just one outlet/one circuit for my tank. Then again, it’s a nano tank and I don’t have a lot of fancy equipment or controllers.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

As @Lbrdsoxfan said, You have to consider your max load, and go from there. I am running 4 tanks over two circuits with two chillers with a max of 3.5 amps each (via eb832 monitor)

 

[JoJosReef]

Amazing responses, thanks everyone!

Not sure what to conclude, but:
1. I know even less than I thought I did about electrical circuits
2. I *may* not be running too many amps on that outlet
3. GFCI good and/or bad -- regardless, I have absolutely no say on whether the outlet is GFCI or not
4. Maybe think about splitting some functions across circuits (which I now understand is different than outlets) for redundancy, e.g. primary vs backup heating elements.

 

[littlefoxx]

I have all of the tank equipment running on one outlet. This is Griswold Family Xmas level overuse of an outlet, I think. How bad is this? What do you think the real risk is? Should I trail some extension cords from the other wall outlets over to split this all up?

All of this:

Going into this smart outlet that is plugged into one socket:

Equipment plugged in:
2x Mightyjet 536gph return pumps
3x Noopsyche Mini LEDs
1x Air stone
1x Maxspect Jump 2k Gyre
1x Helio ATO
1x Inkbird with:
-- Finnex 300W heating element (should be off most of the time since Helio keeps the temp)
-- USB outlet splitter with 3 USB fans for cooling mode
1x Frigidaire mini fridge (real fridge, not one of the wine cooler types).

Thanks!

I spread between two outlets and two different surge protector extenders. Had an electrical issue and it killed ALL my fish…

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Amazing responses, thanks everyone!

Not sure what to conclude, but:
1. I know even less than I thought I did about electrical circuits
2. I *may* not be running too many amps on that outlet
3. GFCI good and/or bad -- regardless, I have absolutely no say on whether the outlet is GFCI or not
4. Maybe think about splitting some functions across circuits (which I now understand is different than outlets) for redundancy, e.g. primary vs backup heating elements.

Frankly the fridge is pulling more wattage than anything else, maybe the 300w heater is neck & neck. How big is display for a 300w heater.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Using other outlets, if they are on same circuit won't help. I added a 25amp breaker to my box, dedicated only for pump and wave makers, skimmer etc. And another for lights only. Contact a qualified electrician if you don't know how to do this yourself.

having a residential wall outlet on a 25amp breaker is not permitted or advised if it is a normal 20amp circuit, it is supplied with 12guage wire which has the allowable ampacity of 20amps NOT 25a, putting in a larger breaker is not the correct way to accomplish this, contacting a qualified electrician is.

 

[The_Paradox]

I am pretty paranoid with this too. Got quite a few waterproof extension cord boxes from Thonapa

Amazing responses, thanks everyone!

Not sure what to conclude, but:
1. I know even less than I thought I did about electrical circuits
2. I *may* not be running too many amps on that outlet
3. GFCI good and/or bad -- regardless, I have absolutely no say on whether the outlet is GFCI or not
4. Maybe think about splitting some functions across circuits (which I now understand is different than outlets) for redundancy, e.g. primary vs backup heating elements.

If you were running too much for the circuit the breaker would trip. What your concern would be is the extension cord/s. They will feel warm but should never be hot unless it’s ambient temperatures obviously. As for GFCI if the outlet does not have one, check the breaker. I don’t use GFCI outlets I just swap the breaker instead. If you have neither, you can pick up an inline one for under 30 dollars that just plugs in.

 

[The_Paradox]

having a residential wall outlet on a 25amp breaker is not permitted or advised if it is a normal 20amp circuit, it is supplied with 12guage wire which has the allowable ampacity of 20amps NOT 25a, putting in a larger breaker is not the correct way to accomplish this, contacting a qualified electrician is.

That’s not correct. Most code allows 30R plugs on a single phase 120/30a over 10/2 and 12/2 depending on run not to mention 240. Unless you’re talking about the 5-15 itself. Then you are correct. You need an intermediate connection or PDU by code but is still allowed in residential.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

That’s not correct. Most code allows 30R plugs on a single phase 120/30a over 10/2 and 12/2 depending on run not to mention 240.

yeah 30a receptacles don't run skimmers and pumps I'm not following what your saying