High phosphates and nitrates and my LFS advice

BigMikeFlipz

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Quick query, a new guy at my local fish store told me I shouldn't add any snails nor crabs due to high phosphates and nitrates. He also told me I should use a canister filter instead of the hang on back. My tank is close to 2.5 years old.

I do have high phosphates and nitrates that has led to a decent amount of hair and bubble algae and only have 4 small snails, 2 clowns, 2 pajama cardinals in a 30 gallon tank. This was most likely due to 2 fish dying, one found, one has apparently died in the sandbed (yellow goby and shrimp). While I'm doing more water changes, filter changes, have scrubbed a lot of the algae off/out, why would I not be ok to add 5-6 snails to help consume algae in the tank? I'm not adding 10 fish, or a new huge bioload...

Thoughts?
 

Slocke

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Quick query, a new guy at my local fish store told me I shouldn't add any snails nor crabs due to high phosphates and nitrates. He also told me I should use a canister filter instead of the hang on back. My tank is close to 2.5 years old.

I do have high phosphates and nitrates that has led to a decent amount of hair and bubble algae and only have 4 small snails, 2 clowns, 2 pajama cardinals in a 30 gallon tank. This was most likely due to 2 fish dying, one found, one has apparently died in the sandbed (yellow goby and shrimp). While I'm doing more water changes, filter changes, have scrubbed a lot of the algae off/out, why would I not be ok to add 5-6 snails to help consume algae in the tank? I'm not adding 10 fish, or a new huge bioload...

Thoughts?
That LFS guy couldn’t be more wrong…

The snails, crabs, etc won’t help the high nutrients but certainly will help with the algae. As for canister filters they are just big HOB filters that are hard to clean. Clean out that HOB regularly and it will do better than any canister filter.
 

matt_work27

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Water changes can lower nitrates and feeding less pellets can lower phosphates. If you dont have any corals you can add a rowaphos in a bag to ur hang on back filter to lower phosphates as well. Rowaphos can really drop your phosphates fast tho, so if you have any corals u have to use it sparingly. Most people on this forum have a sump with all their filtration rather than a hang on back filter or canister filter. I am not sure their is a massive difference between the two. As long as you do regular way changes and have a good amount of live rock you can keep your tank looking fine. However, another thing to keep in mind is that you should always being using RO water when topping off evaporation or doing water changes.
 

matt_work27

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Quick query, a new guy at my local fish store told me I shouldn't add any snails nor crabs due to high phosphates and nitrates. He also told me I should use a canister filter instead of the hang on back. My tank is close to 2.5 years old.

I do have high phosphates and nitrates that has led to a decent amount of hair and bubble algae and only have 4 small snails, 2 clowns, 2 pajama cardinals in a 30 gallon tank. This was most likely due to 2 fish dying, one found, one has apparently died in the sandbed (yellow goby and shrimp). While I'm doing more water changes, filter changes, have scrubbed a lot of the algae off/out, why would I not be ok to add 5-6 snails to help consume algae in the tank? I'm not adding 10 fish, or a new huge bioload...

Thoughts?
Also you should definitely add turbo or trochus snails to deal with hair algae. You will have to remove the larger tuffs of algae by hand tho. Another thing to keep in mind when getting snails is make sure u don't leave a dead snail in ur tank to rot and leaching more nutrients into your tank. 5 turbo snails is probably a good start
 

Slocke

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Nitrates look to be around 60ppm. He didn't tell me the test result for phosphates. I have an order for hanna testing reagents in for my phosphate ulr device, but will be sunday before I can retest.
That’s somewhat high but not crazy. Water changes and filter cleaning can fix that fast but you need to remove the algae somehow. CUC or by hand
 

FUNGI

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assuming its the 30G tank OP has, I would do 5 gallons a week change for one month, and then 5 gal a month wc. for maintenance. Change out HOB filter media once a month (depending on the media), and since its HOB filter, I would also get a cheap HOB skimmer......but for sure....add your snails....
 

gbroadbridge

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Quick query, a new guy at my local fish store told me I shouldn't add any snails nor crabs due to high phosphates and nitrates. He also told me I should use a canister filter instead of the hang on back. My tank is close to 2.5 years old.

I do have high phosphates and nitrates that has led to a decent amount of hair and bubble algae and only have 4 small snails, 2 clowns, 2 pajama cardinals in a 30 gallon tank. This was most likely due to 2 fish dying, one found, one has apparently died in the sandbed (yellow goby and shrimp). While I'm doing more water changes, filter changes, have scrubbed a lot of the algae off/out, why would I not be ok to add 5-6 snails to help consume algae in the tank? I'm not adding 10 fish, or a new huge bioload...

Thoughts?
Most important - find a new LFS that understands reef tanks.

Nitrate around 60 is not that high - but a 50% water change will drop it to 30 which is better.
If your Phosphate ends up over 0.5ppm when you test it - that would be high.
I'd wait until you have a number before starting anything.

The way to bring it down if you have a hob filter is a bag of Phosguard which is easier to use than GFO.
Whichever method you choose to lower Phosphate will take a while, but slow is better going down.

To fix Algae you use elbow grease and a toothbrush, and introduce more herbivores like snails and an urchin.
 

KrisReef

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What’s high?
QuotesAuthorsGGeorge Thorogood
  • You know when your mouth a-getting dry
    You're plenty high.
    George Thorogood
    Favorite
    "Song: 'One Bourbon, One Scotch, One Beer'". 1977.

  • (You might consider Vodka dosing like GT recommends?) :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
  • 4 X 5-gallon water changes->
    25/30 X 60PPM = 50ppm
  • 25/30 x 50 = 41ppm
  • 25/30 x 41 = 34.7ppm
  • 25/30 x 34.7 = ~ 28.9ppm Or about half of 60 Without feeding.

    Alec Baldwin Drink GIF


  • two each ten-gallon changes
  • 20/30 x 60ppm = 40ppm
  • 20/30 x 40ppm = ~26ppm (NO3)(without feeding additions of NO3 & P.)
 
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BigMikeFlipz

BigMikeFlipz

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Thanks all, I actually am doing many of the things listed, it was mostly my concerns that I was missing something. When the "new guy" told me all this I did see another worker in the background roll his eyes so I was worried. I was there to get 10 gallons of their saltwater (I do my own with my own RODI but wanted some of the good stuff).

Details I left out which I am correcting, I had a few fish disappear, goby and shrimp, and 2 die that I removed. After that I did no water changes for 4 months, so that caused my increase in Phosphates and nitrates, so I knew they were high when the algae spiked.

I had got back on track and was just surprised that my LFS new guy said all that. I will indeed do 5 gallon min water changes for a month, or at least until both are down, and was wanting some extra snails to help remove some minor amounts of the algae. I was truly blown away as he was hard core on the canister setup and kept telling me no to adding a small snail pack.

Really appreciate all the input and advice, I know to come here for that lil' bit o' help... and also expect to get a bit of grief for lack of water changes, that's on me!
 
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BigMikeFlipz

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Most important - find a new LFS that understands reef tanks.

Nitrate around 60 is not that high - but a 50% water change will drop it to 30 which is better.
If your Phosphate ends up over 0.5ppm when you test it - that would be high.
I'd wait until you have a number before starting anything.

The way to bring it down if you have a hob filter is a bag of Phosguard which is easier to use than GFO.
Whichever method you choose to lower Phosphate will take a while, but slow is better going down.

To fix Algae you use elbow grease and a toothbrush, and introduce more herbivores like snails and an urchin.
I actually did this last night, did 10 gallon water change and took a good ole toothbrush to 3 of the largest rocks in the removed water. I removed at least 50% of the algae. I plan another 10 gallon change in 4 days and will scrub more off if I can. Appreciate the advice, all the info is what I was thinking, but began questioning myself...
 

SumpinFishy

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2 cents from someone who is still learning. HOB protein skimmer made a lot of difference for me. I use a cannister as well.
I can keep my nitrates <30 and phosphate around .15. But the hair algea, has been a pain. My LFS sold me a rabbit snail??? ( large slug with what looks like rabbit ears) ate the tank clean in 2 weeks. Then he took it back and gave me store credit (less a little for the "rental" )
 

Dburr1014

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I was there to get 10 gallons of their saltwater (I do my own with my own RODI but wanted some of the good stuff).
Be weary of LFS water.
I read threads here that people think they are buying the "good stuff" only to test it and find out it's not so "good".

I don't think a LFS would be "keeping up" on the filters the way a "home owner hobbyist" would.

IMO, you are better off making it yourself, 100%.
 

exnisstech

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I was there to get 10 gallons of their saltwater (I do my own with my own RODI but wanted some of the good stuff).
Why is thiers the good stuff? I never use water from someone else. I trust myself only when it comes to mixing my salt water
 

Gumbies R Us

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Why is thiers the good stuff? I never use water from someone else. I trust myself only when it comes to mixing my salt water
Yeah, this confused me as well. I trust my own water better than someone else
 
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BigMikeFlipz

BigMikeFlipz

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Yeah, I've had good luck with their water and had good outcomes. The big issue was the one new guy. I'll avoid him until he is gone lol. I do typically make my own, just wanted some of their red sea mix(I use instant ocean which takes forever to mix)
 

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