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Are the bigger pieces mostly mari and wild colonies?

Some might think that’s a little taboo question but if they are wild and mari pieces I was going to say that’s a lot of work to find that many different variants without buying named fragments. Lots of nice colors in that blue pic.
 
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I tend to keep a very high Nutrient tank. I like my no3 between 16 and 30 and po4 between .04 and 08 so the snails are well fed by all the algae that grows. If i take all the snails out i would just have A green tank with Algae covered everywhere its amazing how much the snails eat.

Here is a video of when the tank was cycling and I just got the snails.. they literally cleaned the whole tank- now they just eat and keep the new alage from coming back

View attachment 1777476

Are those astrae snails? I'm a big fan of snails so just curious what other people use.
 

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Some might think that’s a little taboo question but if they are wild and mari pieces I was going to say that’s a lot of work to find that many different variants without buying named fragments. Lots of nice colors in that blue pic.
Indo cultured Tenuis have been coming in, in droves lately so plenty of variety to choose from. Just takes time to cook them and color them
 
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Are the bigger pieces mostly mari and wild colonies?
they are both some wild pieces i have had for years. as well as some frags that grew out to colonies
 
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Indo cultured Tenuis have been coming in, in droves lately so plenty of variety to choose from. Just takes time to cook them and color them
agreed!
 

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Amazing set up. Thanks for sharing your system info. I have been battling trying to get good color out of my acros. Im pretty sure its a nutrients issue. Started dosing KNO3 and about to dose PO4 as my system tends to bottom out if I dont dose.
 
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Amazing set up. Thanks for sharing your system info. I have been battling trying to get good color out of my acros. Im pretty sure its a nutrients issue. Started dosing KNO3 and about to dose PO4 as my system tends to bottom out if I dont dose.
yes, you absolutely have to dose N03! IMO your corals consume it fast. I test my n03 every few days, actually if your no3 is at or under 5 i think tanks will not do well. once you get your no3 up you have to be careful to keep it up because once it its up and it drops it can crash your tank... also the tank will take a lot of n03 to become saturated with it. at 1st you will dose and dose it and it will not come up. this is because the starving corals are consuming it very fast, but once the tank is saturated with it you can dose less to maintain the value.


for example, in my 540-gallon system. when the no3 drops below 5 it will take me like 400ML a day of neontiro for 5 days to bring the n03 back to 16-32 ppm. but once the no3 is up there i can maintain it at 125ml per day. it takes some practice to keep proper no3 but this is IMO the key to good coloration and polyp extension.

Most people get frustrated with adding the no3 for the 1st few days because they can't seem to the value up and then testing it is a pain so they start feeding more. feeding more will just dirty up the tank and cause other issues. I use a controlled feeding method from American Reef HPD which actually brings the no3 down and po4 down to close to 0.. then i control it by dosing it up....
 
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yes, you absolutely have to dose N03! IMO your corals consume it fast. I test my n03 every few days, actually if your no3 is at or under 5 i think tanks will not do well. once you get your no3 up you have to be careful to keep it up because once it its up and it drops it can crash your tank... also the tank will take a lot of n03 to become saturated with it. at 1st you will dose and dose it and it will not come up. this is because the starving corals are consuming it very fast, but once the tank is saturated with it you can dose less to maintain the value.


for example, in my 540-gallon system. when the no3 drops below 5 it will take me like 400ML a day of neontiro for 5 days to bring the n03 back to 16-32 ppm. but once the no3 is up there i can maintain it at 125ml per day. it takes some practice to keep proper no3 but this is IMO the key to good coloration and polyp extension.

Most people get frustrated with adding the no3 for the 1st few days because they can't seem to the value up and then testing it is a pain so they start feeding more. feeding more will just dirty up the tank and cause other issues. I use a controlled feeding method from American Reef HPD which actually brings the no3 down and po4 down to close to 0.. then i control it by dosing it up....
Is this all detailed in your research materials? I'm going back and forth about getting it. I keep killing tenuis but other sps are fine.
 

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yes, you absolutely have to dose N03! IMO your corals consume it fast. I test my n03 every few days, actually if your no3 is at or under 5 i think tanks will not do well. once you get your no3 up you have to be careful to keep it up because once it its up and it drops it can crash your tank... also the tank will take a lot of n03 to become saturated with it. at 1st you will dose and dose it and it will not come up. this is because the starving corals are consuming it very fast, but once the tank is saturated with it you can dose less to maintain the value.


for example, in my 540-gallon system. when the no3 drops below 5 it will take me like 400ML a day of neontiro for 5 days to bring the n03 back to 16-32 ppm. but once the no3 is up there i can maintain it at 125ml per day. it takes some practice to keep proper no3 but this is IMO the key to good coloration and polyp extension.

Most people get frustrated with adding the no3 for the 1st few days because they can't seem to the value up and then testing it is a pain so they start feeding more. feeding more will just dirty up the tank and cause other issues. I use a controlled feeding method from American Reef HPD which actually brings the no3 down and po4 down to close to 0.. then i control it by dosing it up....
I’ve seen quite the opposite regarding color and health when they’re high of levels as you suggest. In fact, I see better coloration, health, PE, when levels are low, in my own and many seasoned hobbyists tanks. I’m sure we all agree you need some, but not double digit NO3 or residual levels that high.
 

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I’ve seen quite the opposite regarding color and health when they’re high of levels as you suggest. In fact, I see better coloration, health, PE, when levels are low, in my own and many seasoned hobbyists tanks. I’m sure we all agree you need some, but not double digit NO3 or residual levels that high.
My Tenuis colonies and frags look better with double digit no3/po4.
 
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Reefs like this give me confidence I could start getting into the tenuis corals. I also run my nutrients higher for my shrooms because they do better for me.
Now if I could only get my shrooms to grow in super high par so I can add some tenuis to my shallow tables that would be epic.
 

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Hi guys after 3 years I feel like this tank is decent enough and need to start a new tank... I set up a new 120 Gallon Display tank with some bonsai tree Rock work and plan to select some frags from the main display for this new tenuis grow out. its going to be a long journey replicating the main system parameters and growing the selected frags out. I am also excited to see how the radian g5s compare to the g4s. In the current tank they are grown using the g4s and the new tank will be the g5s.

View attachment 1777442



View attachment 1777371

View attachment 1777400


View attachment 1777373
Shane backer has some of the best coral In my opinion
 
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Is this all detailed in your research materials? I'm going back and forth about getting it. I keep killing tenuis but other sps are fine.
yes it is all there... it is our whole routine from A-Z. also i am happy to answer any of your questions here :)
 
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Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%

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