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MATIBY

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Those are Dinos, caused by too much nutrients. I did some major research on RC. :D
I had that problem 2 months ago, I kept syphoning it out with a turkey baster but came back the next day. I ended up using the chemiclean with 20% water change after 2 days as directed. Chemiclean wiped it out and never came back.
I also cut down on feeding my goby and sixline wrasse to every other day. Frogspawn, Pink tip carribean anenome and several zoos wasn't affected by chemiclean.
Those dinos will eventually start to look stringy and flow to other areas in the tank.
 
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MATIBY

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jandlms

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Cyano, not dinos.
Upping the flow will make it look better but the increased nutrient problem (probably phospahte) remains.
Change water.
Find source of nutrient.
Run carbon and a phos or nitrate sponge
Increase flow and skimming
GIve it some time
This is just a cyano outbreak folks. Its not rocket science to deal with cyano.
 
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I've already taken some steps to beat this and I'm very confident I will..

20%-25% water change every 3-4 days along with Carbon, ongoing flow, 2 hrs less photoperiod, and every other day feeding should all help.. just a matter of time til it's all gone..

thanks for all the responses.. I greatly appreciate all your help.. and I guess it makes for a good read just in case others come across this minor problemo also.. :)

I think the main thing that contributed to cyano is 4-5 decent size margarita snails dying at the same time...

Thanks again..
 
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Hey Marvin, I am by no means an expert, but I have battled this successfully. As far as i remember you only have 3 fish right, so your feeding should not be to extreme. As we all know zoas get most of their nutrition through photosynthesis so, if you are feeding them something cut that back substantially. This will not effect your zoas at all.
I do believe it gets started because of not enough flow and over feeding. Just to get rid of it in 24 hrs i used RED SLIME REMOVER after that I watched my feeding, flow, filtered with carbon, phophate remover and i skim 24/7. No problems now. Most tanks have a little Cyano but you will notice it is always in a corner or under a rock where flow is weak. If you noticed i did not say Chemiclean. I did use it once with no effect. I also agree that because it is a bacteria and not an algae it will build up a resistance to the medication if you use it over and over again.
Just my 2 cents, what worked for me. Hope this helps
 

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marvin it looks like red slime, scientifically its not algea or bacteria but something in between lol

biology of an echo system - if you change or add or remove any parts to an already established echo system then expect that echo system to react in some way, in time the echo system will re-balence/utilise and adjust to the changes.

anyone who adds new lights or even just fitting new bulbs will have changed a part ie increased lighting to their system, and the first thing that takes advantage of a sudden increase in of light is red slime, the gas bubbles are the by product of red slime.

no matter wat you do to try get rid of it you wont/cant until your echo system and inhabitants utilises the extra light themselves, this process can be quick or take time depending on the size/stability and inhabitants of your echo system, but once your echo system swallows up/makes use of the extra light then the red slime will naturally burn itself out as it wont/cant survive.

one of the best ways to halt red slime growth when adding new lights/bulbs is to acclimatise your echo system (tank) to the new lights, ie raise halides, less halide time etc to start and then slowly increase everything back to your norm over a peroid of weeks, help stop other organisms like red slime making use of any sudden extra.
 
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marvin it looks like red slime, scientifically its not algea or bacteria but something in between lol

biology of an echo system - if you change or add or remove any parts to an already established echo system then expect that echo system to react in some way, in time the echo system will re-balence/utilise and adjust to the changes.

anyone who adds new lights or even just fitting new bulbs will have changed a part ie increased lighting to their system, and the first thing that takes advantage of a sudden increase in of light is red slime, the gas bubbles are the by product of red slime.

no matter wat you do to try get rid of it you wont/cant until your echo system and inhabitants utilises the extra light themselves, this process can be quick or take time depending on the size/stability and inhabitants of your echo system, but once your echo system swallows up/makes use of the extra light then the red slime will naturally burn itself out as it wont/cant survive.

one of the best ways to halt red slime growth when adding new lights/bulbs is to acclimatise your echo system (tank) to the new lights, ie raise halides, less halide time etc to start and then slowly increase everything back to your norm over a peroid of weeks, help stop other organisms like red slime making use of any sudden extra.

i agree, the cyano is an signal of an imbalance in your tank; i had a bought in my 90 when i took near all the chaeto out of my macro tank. it disappeared within a week.
 
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MarvinsReef

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marvin it looks like red slime, scientifically its not algea or bacteria but something in between lol

biology of an echo system - if you change or add or remove any parts to an already established echo system then expect that echo system to react in some way, in time the echo system will re-balence/utilise and adjust to the changes.

anyone who adds new lights or even just fitting new bulbs will have changed a part ie increased lighting to their system, and the first thing that takes advantage of a sudden increase in of light is red slime, the gas bubbles are the by product of red slime.

no matter wat you do to try get rid of it you wont/cant until your echo system and inhabitants utilises the extra light themselves, this process can be quick or take time depending on the size/stability and inhabitants of your echo system, but once your echo system swallows up/makes use of the extra light then the red slime will naturally burn itself out as it wont/cant survive.

one of the best ways to halt red slime growth when adding new lights/bulbs is to acclimatise your echo system (tank) to the new lights, ie raise halides, less halide time etc to start and then slowly increase everything back to your norm over a peroid of weeks, help stop other organisms like red slime making use of any sudden extra.

another lesson learned... don't acclimate your tank with new lighting too fast... I was done acclimating with the new lighting in just over two weeks.. I guess I should've taken more time... I just put the eggcrate and 1 sheet of screen over the tank... another reason I did that is because some of the zoas and palys weren't reacting very well with the more intense lighting, hence they weren't opening fully.. most that were happy were the ones on the sandbed..

I've never had any trouble with this in the past that's why I did what I did but now, I'll try to be more patient... :)

Thanks guys.. there's always room to learn right?!?
 

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hey most of us been through red or green slime with new lights lol, mine took 3 months to dissappear when upgraded to halides from bank of tubes but my patience at not going slow was tested lol, but now its cool
 
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berns

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why people spend a small fortune setting up and patiently watch there tanks grow/mature into a stable echo system and then start adding chemicals is beyond me lol.

heres a good informative link that helps describe slime and methods to help get passed this cycle/phase

http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/microalgae/a/aa092800.htm
 
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MarvinsReef

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I think the water change, constant flow, and carbon helped coz the cyano is staying in only couple spots and not spreading to other areas... I will be doing another waterchange tomorrow night and see what that does....

Thanks again for the support guys and thanks for some great reads....
 
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update.. another 20% water change done today.. I saw a great improvement since the last waterchange... one thing I noticed was there wasn't as much cyano on the sand bed.. I even forgot to turn on the powerheads after working on the tank 2 or 3 days ago and the sandbed wasn't covered with cyano like it normally would.. I really think that the combination of water change, less time on photoperiod, carbon, and flow helped me out a lot.. also, I think my tank is also recovering from the shock of couple of margarita snails dying..

I'm just really glad it's getting better... Thanks again everyone for your inputs and insights in this topic...
 

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