Help! Sump gurgling

Reefering1

Active Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
May 20, 2022
Messages
123
Reaction score
100
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Usa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So randomly I decided to try something and I slightly opened up the second value which was supposed to be for emergencies only. Now out of nowhere the aquarium is completely quiet. I’m very confused why this is but it completely got rid of the loud gurgling. I’m able to run the return pump on its max setting and it quite literally is near silent. Only issue is I don’t have the emergency drain running to any sort of filter sock, it was designed just as an emergency drain but the noise is now gone! I didn’t believe it was possible to achieve a quiet system with using a specific overflow method but somehow it now works.
Just seeing this... dial the return pump back a little, until water barely flows down the emergency pipe
 
Nutramar Foods
OP
OP
Robert_Popa_918

Robert_Popa_918

Community Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
94
Reaction score
34
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Just seeing this... dial the return pump back a little, until water barely flows down the emergency pipe
Okay I will definitely do that! Thank you for the advice. I will definitely continue to strengthen the stand. I do not want it collapsing on me. I do own a 75 gallon marineland aquarium that came with a stand. Surprisingly there is barely any support on that stand. It seems very flimsy and poorly built yet it still held up a 75 gallon for years now. That’s what made me believe that this 50 gallon breeder will be okay with its current stand. I had no idea it wasn’t safe. I’ll build it up. I just didn’t want to place a 2x4 in the middle of the front panel and make it difficult to access the sump. I plan on moving out of my current home in the next couple years and taking this tank with me so it was important to me that I’ll be able to easily take it apart and move it. Thank you for everything
 

SteveMM62Reef

Valuable Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Sep 21, 2020
Messages
1,578
Reaction score
982
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
La Plata
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If you need the flow it is better to bypass a Filter Sock. On my 65 Gallon only about a Quarter of my flow goes through a Filter Sock on a Bypass Arraignment, going back to the Return Pump Chamber. Has Worked well for years. The only other Filter is Pond Media, and I rarely clean it. On my 120 Gallon I’m going to Remove one of the Filter Socks.
 
BRS

Troylee

all about the diy!!!!!
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
14,534
Reaction score
4,679
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Vegas baby!!!!
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you for the advice. I wasn’t aware that the stand wasn’t safe. This aquarium is 50 gallons so I figured with the rocks and water and everything it would be about 600 pounds. On a YouTube video I once saw someone say how a single vertical 2x4 could hold 800 pounds. So I designed the stand to have 1 vertical 2x4 at each corner of the tank. The bracing itself has all been attached using heavy duty 3 inch screws. I genuinely hope I built it strong enough, I’m not sure this was my first time building one. My goal was to avoid any kind of center bracing at the bottom because I wanted to have as much access to the sump as possible. Down the road I was planning on attaching panels using magnets to cover up the bare wood and give it a more modern look. As for the overflow box I agree with you. I think I’m unfortunately going to have to replace it with a wider one. I was hoping to get away with having a sleek, narrow overflow box because I liked the clean look. But unfortunately I’ll most likely have to get a bulkier one. I’m willing to do it though because it’s very important to me to have a tank that’s as quiet as possible. It’s in my bedroom.
Cut some 2x4 that fit between the top and bottom brace and screw into the legs you currently have.. it’s not that the legs you have won’t hold it up, it’s the screws that are currently holding the tank up not the wood. If that makes sense.
 

RocketEngineer

Well-Known Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
766
Reaction score
824
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you for the advice. I wasn’t aware that the stand wasn’t safe. This aquarium is 50 gallons so I figured with the rocks and water and everything it would be about 600 pounds. On a YouTube video I once saw someone say how a single vertical 2x4 could hold 800 pounds. So I designed the stand to have 1 vertical 2x4 at each corner of the tank. The bracing itself has all been attached using heavy duty 3 inch screws. I genuinely hope I built it strong enough, I’m not sure this was my first time building one. My goal was to avoid any kind of center bracing at the bottom because I wanted to have as much access to the sump as possible. Down the road I was planning on attaching panels using magnets to cover up the bare wood and give it a more modern look. As for the overflow box I agree with you. I think I’m unfortunately going to have to replace it with a wider one. I was hoping to get away with having a sleek, narrow overflow box because I liked the clean look. But unfortunately I’ll most likely have to get a bulkier one. I’m willing to do it though because it’s very important to me to have a tank that’s as quiet as possible. It’s in my bedroom.

So randomly I decided to try something and I slightly opened up the second value which was supposed to be for emergencies only. Now out of nowhere the aquarium is completely quiet. I’m very confused why this is but it completely got rid of the loud gurgling. I’m able to run the return pump on its max setting and it quite literally is near silent. Only issue is I don’t have the emergency drain running to any sort of filter sock, it was designed just as an emergency drain but the noise is now gone! I didn’t believe it was possible to achieve a quiet system with using a specific overflow method but somehow it now works.
D4972296-C56E-4146-A360-1394E60CC5BF.jpeg

1) You only have the green boards. Therefore, the weight of the tank is shearing the screws. In the picture, the purple pieces (I show 8, but 4 is enough) directly transfer the weight from the red/yellow frame to the orange/blue frame. In a house, the beams sit on top of the studs for a reason.

2) By opening the valve, you turned that drain into a siphon which is how the Herbie runs quietly.
 
OP
OP
Robert_Popa_918

Robert_Popa_918

Community Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
94
Reaction score
34
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
View attachment 3105348
1) You only have the green boards. Therefore, the weight of the tank is shearing the screws. In the picture, the purple pieces (I show 8, but 4 is enough) directly transfer the weight from the red/yellow frame to the orange/blue frame. In a house, the beams sit on top of the studs for a reason.

2) By opening the valve, you turned that drain into a siphon which is how the Herbie runs quietly.
That makes so much sense. Thank you for showing me that diagram! I will definitely be buying more wood and following that diagram. Thank you for the help, I really appreciate it!
 

Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%
AFX
Back
Top