imo about 6-peak hours in a 12 hr cycle
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how deep is the water, how high is the light, and what preset are you using? Is the anemone looks to be on the bottom. You'd be surprised that the par even high up isn't that high. I ran into this problem with my hydra 32. I had the light about 10-12 inch above the water, and 6 inches below the water line, my par was only 200 at the top of my rock. I was using over 100% blues/violet/etc, 50% whitesHey thanks for the reply man.
I currently have an AI Prime HD. Here's the current setup I have for it.
I chose this setup because this guy from my LFS told me that this would be pretty good for a mixed reef. I've been to this place quite a few times in the past and feel pretty comfortable with them. However, I'm open to the idea of using another setup if this one doesn't seem suffice.
Ah, jeez. Hearing that does not make me a happy camper!
Alright, I'll do my best to remove the clown then. Thing is, I don't have an extra tank for it.. Do I have to get a mini one for the time being?
As for the lighting, what do you recommend would be the best?
Alright, I'll bring up the peak to 8 hours and see how the nem reacts.Yes, definitely. I think all of your corals will do better with more than 3 hrs. of peak lighting.
Well I have a biocube 29, so the depth is about 16in, and the light sits around 9in above the water.how deep is the water, how high is the light, and what preset are you using? Is the anemone looks to be on the bottom. You'd be surprised that the par even high up isn't that high. I ran into this problem with my hydra 32. I had the light about 10-12 inch above the water, and 6 inches below the water line, my par was only 200 at the top of my rock. I was using over 100% blues/violet/etc, 50% whites
Why didn't I think of an acclimation box? Lol.I'd search for an acclamation box for the clown (ebay has some cheap ones). Setting up another tank for a clown is a lot of work. Besides, you can put the nem in it if it releases from the rock. Just make sure there is flow going through. That way you can give it some more light gradually by raising the box. I have a high end nem in one of those boxes right now, he's happy and the clowns aren't harassing him.
Sounds like a plan!If it were me, I'd keep it fairly low until it attaches, then move it up about halfway theough the first day. Then move it up near the top before the lights come on the next day. If it moves around alot in the box try moving it back down some. Mine loves the box and doesn't move, even when I open the top to give it direct light. If it gets better, keep it in there for a month or so and feed a couple times a week to fatten it up. The bigger it is, the better it will handle the love. If it eats while in the box I think that would be a good sign you're out of the woods.
I had a feeling it was pretty low, but no one had said anything about it, so I figured it was alright. I was using B-Ionic for a while but stopped a bit ago. I'll start that up again to get my levels evened out.Calcium is way too low. Get it up to 400 or more, give yourself some buffer room for when it drops without you knowing it. Calcium should never go below 380. Mine look like crap if calcium goes below 360. 400-420 seems to be the sweet spot mine like. My anemone seem to like 9-10KH best. Mag looks fine.
I run my main lights 12 hours a day with 1.5 hour ramp up and down which puts my lights at around 15 hours on per day. I have additional spots I run 10 hours a day. I agree, more light needed.
I'm using a regular thermometer from Petco (a white one with a magnet that goes on the outside of the tank), and I use a refractometer to measure the salinity. I could probably check the temp with another thermometer I have in a different tank, but I don't really have anything else to measure the salinity (other than an old hydrometer).What are you using to test temp and salinity? Can you check with something else? Do you have many anemones or lps or sps corals? How are they doing?
If he's an expert, then I'd greatly appreciate his advice!#orionN seems to be the anemone expert here
Lol that's not what I meant. I meant that it's a thermometer that goes inside the tank, but it stays on the glass because of a magnet that's outside the glass.I wouldn't worry about things like calcium and Alk with anemones, only corals with hard skeletons need those elements monitored. Also I wouldn't trust a thermometer that goes on the outside of your glass. Definitely get a better one!