[Help needed] - Repairing xr15 g5 pro driver board / part identification

[Nico_I99]

Hey,
My radion xr15 g5 pro apparently got some water onto it before I put it away and I have some damaged SMD parts.

I'm looking for the chip with the "7GUC" identification code on it but I can't find it anywhere, could someone help me out? It'd be a shame to throw the entire light out just because one broken chip. I'll also have to replace some resistors but I can just measure those out.

Kind regards,
Nico

 

[Bj’s Reef]

Contact echotec marine. They may help you out.

 

[Nico_I99]

Contact echotec marine. They may help you out.

They don't want to give out that information, I've already contacted them

 

[BetteMidler]

That is a basic voltage reference. You should have a voltage in, voltage out , & enable. SOT23 package. That number on top is most likely an in house, it won't cross to anything. You are sure the device is broken? I would believe there is damage to other parts of the circuit. Saltwater probably got under other areas and mineralized underneath their packages. Near impossible to clean.

 

[Nico_I99]

That is a basic voltage reference. You should have a voltage in, voltage out , & enable. SOT23 package. That number on top is most likely an in house, it won't cross to anything. You are sure the device is broken? I would believe there is damage to other parts of the circuit. Saltwater probably got under other areas and mineralized underneath their packages. Near impossible to clean.

Thanks for the starting point!

The device definitely is broken, one of the resistors is a goner due to corrosion as well. (And the voltage reference is missing a leg)

It does seem to be only on this part of the board though, before cleaning it looked like it was just one or two drops of saltwater that spilled on the board somehow.

Every other part of the board looks as new

 

[BetteMidler]

Also...
"It also may be one of those crypto chips which are used to avoid hardware clones or grey market counterfeit.

This type of chip often comes in SOT23 format and contains a key and some crypto mambo jambo that is specific for the maker... i wouldn't be surprised that a chip like that has no label on it"

Pretty much screwed it that is what it is.

 

[Reefering1]

Did you ask if they will sell you that pcb? Possible they don't want to give away info, but might sell you the parts..

The tracers on the board look damaged.

 

[Nico_I99]

Did you ask if they will sell you that pcb? Possible they don't want to give away info, but might sell you the parts..

The tracers on the board look damaged.

Those are just some weird fragments, here's another picture.

And I did ask my countries distributor for a new board but it'd cost me more than a used xr15..

 

[Nico_I99]

Also...
"It also may be one of those crypto chips which are used to avoid hardware clones or grey market counterfeit.

This type of chip often comes in SOT23 format and contains a key and some crypto mambo jambo that is specific for the maker... i wouldn't be surprised that a chip like that has no label on it"

Pretty much screwed it that is what it is.

that'd be pretty butt, ngl

 

[jose hernandez]

theres a guy on you tube that fixes them fixreef he fixed my eb832

 

[Reefering1]

@_AV

 

[_AV]

It's a small EEPROM chip. It holds configuration information including the light serial number, model, etc.
This is how the light knows it's serial number even if the main controller is replaced and reprogrammed.

You have your work cut out for you there. Not only eeprom needs to be replaced and reprogrammed, but a bunch of resistors and capacitors too. Also, lot's of green coming out of those vias, which suggests that they would also need to be restored. Good news I suppose is that this eeprom chip existed since at least G3 and can be sourced from older boards. But it still needs to be reprogrammed to match your new light.

Ecotech does not sell boards at all. They certainly do not give out component level information or the schematics.

 

[Nico_I99]

It's a small EEPROM chip. It holds configuration information including the light serial number, model, etc.
This is how the light knows it's serial number even if the main controller is replaced and reprogrammed.

Ecotech does not sell boards at all. They certainly do not give out component level information or the schematics.

Ah, so worst case I guess. So there's nothing I can do I assume?

 

[_AV]

It's not bad. I've replaced controllers and eeprom chips on these and restored bad traces. But you need programming equipment, you need firmware and eeprom dumps, etc.

 

[Nico_I99]

It's not bad. I've replaced controllers and eeprom chips on these and restored bad traces. But you need programming equipment, you need firmware and eeprom dumps, etc.

Ah I see, though getting the eeprom dumps without a working board won't happen.

 

[_AV]

It's the VCC pin that got corroded off. Which is what usually happens. If I were desperate, I would have found a way under a microscope to attach a wire or a probe to what's left of that pin, power it up and dump the config. It's much easier to get it off a working chip and modify to your needs of course.

 

[Nico_I99]

It's the VCC pin that got corroded off. Which is what usually happens. If I were desperate, I would have found a way under a microscope to attach a wire or a probe to what's left of that pin, power it up and dump the config. It's much easier to get it off a working chip and modify to your needs of course.

Thanks,
I'll see if I can do anything there. I sadly don't have a digital microscope though.

And some resistors as well, some of them are physically broken

 

[Nico_I99]

It's the VCC pin that got corroded off. Which is what usually happens. If I were desperate, I would have found a way under a microscope to attach a wire or a probe to what's left of that pin, power it up and dump the config. It's much easier to get it off a working chip and modify to your needs of course.

What kind of wire diameter would you recommend? I've never worked with SMD parts, much smaller than what I usually work with, haha

 

[_AV]

What kind of wire diameter would you recommend? I've never worked with SMD parts, much smaller than what I usually work with, haha

I can't tell from your picture how much of that pin is still there, but I would actually have a spring loaded acupuncture needle in there. Much easier and more stable temporary connection.

I've used it here on a kessil a360x in this video: