Heater failsafes

[BryanM]

I'm an Apex user. Currently I have two Finnex 300w titanium heaters plugged in to outlets 2 and 3 of an EB8 strip.

Reading about some nightmares, I'm now quite interested in how to improve this setup just in case something gets geeked up with the Apex.

 

[MarineandReef Jaron]

I think the best practice IMO is to use the built in heater controller as primary control and the Apex as a fail-safe.(Setting the apex to turn off at a higher temp and turn on at a lower temp than the built in heater controller) Set your temperature alerts so Apex will let you know if the heater thermostat has failed. If it fails on then you can swap out the heater and the apex will take over control until you get a replacement.

 

[TheHarold]

I'm an Apex user. Currently I have two Finnex 300w titanium heaters plugged in to outlets 2 and 3 of an EB8 strip.

Reading about some nightmares, I'm now quite interested in how to improve this setup just in case something gets geeked up with the Apex.

If this is the Finnex 300w Titanium Element plugged directly into an EB832, you do risk meltdowns if the Apex fails.

Your tank will cook if:

• Apex temperature probe fails
• Apex temperature probe is accidentally pulled out of the water
• Apex heater outlet is unintentionally sent to "ON"
• EB832 mechanical relay fails in an "On" configuration
• Apex software glitches and outlet somehow gets set to "on".

Redundant controllers are the way to go. My heaters are always plugged into an Inkbird Temperature Controller, that is then plugged into the EB832. Either system can disable the heater and alarm independently if it detects an overheating situation.

 

[BryanM]

If this is the Finnex 300w Titanium Element plugged directly into an EB832, you do risk meltdowns if the Apex fails.

Your tank will cook if:

• Apex temperature probe fails
• Apex temperature probe is accidentally pulled out of the water
• Apex heater outlet is unintentionally sent to "ON"
• EB832 mechanical relay fails in an "On" configuration
• Apex software glitches and outlet somehow gets set to "on".

Redundant controllers are the way to go. My heaters are always plugged into an Inkbird Temperature Controller, that is then plugged into the EB832. Either system can disable the heater and alarm independently if it detects an overheating situation.

I'm having a mental block on how this works.

Is it this:

1). Inkbird is primary in controlling heaters, set to say turn on at 77, off at 79
2). Apex temp controller is backup, turning on somewhat irrelevant, turn off at 80

 

[MarineandReef Jaron]

I'm having a mental block on how this works.

Is it this:

1). Inkbird is primary in controlling heaters, set to say turn on at 77, off at 79
2). Apex temp controller is backup, turning on somewhat irrelevant, turn off at 80

This is what I would recommend. I have the philosophy that the controller should not be a "controller" it should be an alarm system that notifies you and takes action in the event of a failure.

 

[kfries]

I highly recommend the back up failsafe. 7 years ago I was nieve and only used the Apex to control my finnex heater. Apex frozen and held the heater. Killed almost everything. It was extremely discouraging and I got out of the hobby for several years. I use an ink bird with an adjustable heater to do the controls for on/off. I have Apex monitoring only with alarms if temps get out of wack. I don't have an EB or power bar. I use a Kasa power strip. If the heater were to stick on I can power it of remotely. I am setting up a new tank now and need a 600w heater. I am trying to figure out how to setup redundancy with this as the heater are not adjustable.