Growing Impatient! (Kind of)

jhadaway117

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So I’ve recently battled Dino’s and Cyano and then Dino’s again. Quite frankly my tank is doing better than ever, but the problem is I can’t keep phosphates at detectable level unless I dose daily.

This tank was at roughly 4 months ago with dry rock and live sand. I’m concerned that the phosphate issue will continue to give me issues. My coral are thriving and even showing good growth which is great, but i don’t want to continue to worry about these two again…lol. I’m even growing patches of coralline on my rocks and power heads!

So I guess my question is, at what point does the rock and sand become saturated with phosphate that I can become more comfortable with not testing every single day? Also, how can I induce growth of macro algae to outcompete the nuisance stuff? I use a Hannah checker by the way. This is a 33.5 gallon waterbox with roughly 25 lbs of dry rock. My parameters are below as well as pics of the tank.

Salinity 1.026
Alk 8.9
Nitrate 10 ppm
Phosphate .07 (Will be back to zero by morning)
Calcium 440
Mag 1300
PH (unknown) haven’t checked in a while and decided not to chase it) last I tested at 7.9) IMG_9421.jpeg IMG_9420.jpeg IMG_9419.jpeg IMG_9422.jpeg
 

Timfish

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Macro algae can be pretty bad on their own as they dump DOCs into the water htat have been shown to disrupt coral microbiomes. FWIW sponges and biofilms are soaking up PO4. Cryptic sponges may sequester PO4 in the form of polyphosphate crystals. You didn't mention haw often or how much you feed your fish. You might try feeding for frequently to see if that helps.
 
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jhadaway117

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Macro algae can be pretty bad on their own as they dump DOCs into the water htat have been shown to disrupt coral microbiomes. FWIW sponges and biofilms are soaking up PO4. Cryptic sponges may sequester PO4 in the form of polyphosphate crystals. You didn't mention haw often or how much you feed your fish. You might try feeding for frequently to see if that helps.
You know I really didn’t think about the sponges. Now that you brought that up I do have several of these growing in low light spots and under ledges. Should I look at removing these? IMG_9428.jpeg IMG_9427.jpeg
 

Timfish

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No, they're definitley beneficial. They recycle DOC putting it back in the food webs and are very important for reef ecosystems.
 
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jhadaway117

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No, they're definitley beneficial. They recycle DOC putting it back in the food webs and are very important for reef ecosystems.
Ok thanks. And by the way. I feed two to three times a day a combination of mysis/brine shrimp and sometimes pellets. Usually enough for them to consume in about 30 seconds. I stopped aminos and reef roids so I didn’t fuel any outbreaks. Current stock is an Anthias, blue damsel, royal gramma, mccoskers wrasse, and a watchman goby/pistol combo. Also have around 15 misc CUC snails along with an emerald crab.
 

Timfish

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I definitely would add an urchin. Unlike most herbivores that will leave some algae behind to start regrwowing immediatley, urchins actually scour the surface free and have bigger appetites. Feeding corals is problematic since it's so species specific so wait until you have more experience with corals before you start feeding them again. And FWIW amino acids are organic nitrogen and epending on what's happening in your system can cause problems by sewing N/P ratios (that's the problem with trying to use N/P rtios is we can't easily measure the organic levels, just the inorganic ones).

Here's a data bomb if you're interested:

Fish Poop





Feed








Urchins



 

Miami Reef

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can cause problems by sewing N/P ratios (that's the problem with trying to use N/P rtios is we can't easily measure the organic levels, just the inorganic ones).
Why are ratios important? As long as you have enough N & P, the ratio shouldn’t matter, right?

Dose more phosphate. It will take a while for the rocks to adsorb enough for the water column to become detectable.

I highly doubt the sponges are soaking up the phosphate. I believe it’s from the rocks and sand; you don’t even have that much sponge.
 
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jhadaway117

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I definitely would add an urchin. Unlike most herbivores that will leave some algae behind to start regrwowing immediatley, urchins actually scour the surface free and have bigger appetites. Feeding corals is problematic since it's so species specific so wait until you have more experience with corals before you start feeding them again. And FWIW amino acids are organic nitrogen and epending on what's happening in your system can cause problems by sewing N/P ratios (that's the problem with trying to use N/P rtios is we can't easily measure the organic levels, just the inorganic ones).

Here's a data bomb if you're interested:

Fish Poop





Feed








Urchins



Funny you say that. I have a Tuxedo Urchin in my other tank that was previously in this one. I moved him after the rock in my other tank started to get covered in a green macro algae. That tank is in the same situation as this one, although not as bad and no Dino bloom. It also has low phosphate issues even though it’s been set up for around 8 months. I’ll look at moving the urchin back over or just get another one. IMG_9433.jpeg
 

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