Good temp swing for 2gal pico jar?

derekg

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I just started a 2gal pico jar and the only thing giving me a problem right now is the temperature swing. I tried the hydor 25w heater to maintain the temperature but it just shot my temperature to 85 overnight and I took it out. Without any heater or chiller in it it swings from around 76-80 daily with just lights ( only for 8hours full intensity). Any advice? Is this temp swing nothing to worry about?
 
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ISpeakForTheSeas

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76-80 daily should be totally fine:
Slightly diurnally and seasonally, yes:
"The diurnal temperature variations are about 0.3°C in theopen oceans and 2 to 3°C in shallow waters."
Source: https://www.academia.edu/36838790/Chemical_Oceanography
From what I've seen, for most tropical reef organisms, as long as the temp doesn't swing too far too fast, and as long as the temp is kept within ~75-82F (lower than 74ish can start causing problems, higher than 83 and many corals will start to bleach - so allowing for temp variation due to imperfect temp controllers in our tanks, I would set 75F as the min and 82F as the max), the temp doesn't seem to matter much. To give an idea, a 2C change (from 25C to 27C, for example) is about a 3.5F change (77 to 80.6, with the 25C to 27C example), so allowing a 3F to 4F temp change diurnally should be fine.
 
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Jmp998

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I used this heater (25 W version) for almost 3 years in a 2 gallon pico jar with good results, but maybe I was just lucky. I only took the pico down because the light disintegrated, heater was still working fine.


I agree though if you can really maintain 76-80 without a heater, that is a better option (cheaper and less risk).
 

DaJMasta

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25W of heating is way too much for such a small tank. You'd be better off with the heat off your pump or a small, always-on kind of heater in the 5-7.5W range. If you really want temperature control, I would use one of these low power always on heaters and a controller rather than a heater with an integrated thermostat - those start around 25W (perhaps as you've noticed) and the heat output means that both it will swing up quickly when the heater turns on and if it ever sticks, it is basically guaranteed to cook the tank. Lower power means slower heating and much, much less risk if it somehow hangs in the on position when it wasn't supposed to.
 
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derekg

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25W of heating is way too much for such a small tank. You'd be better off with the heat off your pump or a small, always-on kind of heater in the 5-7.5W range. If you really want temperature control, I would use one of these low power always on heaters and a controller rather than a heater with an integrated thermostat - those start around 25W (perhaps as you've noticed) and the heat output means that both it will swing up quickly when the heater turns on and if it ever sticks, it is basically guaranteed to cook the tank. Lower power means slower heating and much, much less risk if it somehow hangs in the on position when it wasn't supposed to.
yea i also tried a low wattage heater and it just cooked the tank too (before i had any coral in it). I could use a controller like you said, do you know any ones that come with a controller or remote to regulate it? At room temp with no heater its mainting 76-80 which seems pretty safe
 

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Any of the go-to dedicated temperature controllers (Inkbird, etc.) will have switchable outlets for the heater and then a remote temperature probe, so you'd put the always-on heater on the outlet and the temperature probe in the tank somewhere for it to decide when to switch it on.

If you have already had a low power heater in there and it's been too much, though, I would look for an even smaller one. While a smaller heater will have more trouble compensating for very low ambient temperatures (if the heating goes out in the winter, for example), if you can pick one that doesn't get too hot (maybe low to mid 80s?) when just always on, you have some extra insurance against a controller failure - though a failure on a dedicated controller is far, far less likely than the failure of a built in heater thermostat, which is relatively common.

76-80 is a little swingy for my tastes, but any of those temperatures would work. If you have confidence that your room temperature won't fluctuate too much (no one likes really hot or cold indoor temps, no drafts or direct sun nearby, etc.), then it will probably do. If it's really your lights adding the heat, you could try to increase their ventilation too, but there's a chance extra airflow around the top of the tank will also increase evaporation (cooling, but also ATO consumption).
 
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derekg

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Any of the go-to dedicated temperature controllers (Inkbird, etc.) will have switchable outlets for the heater and then a remote temperature probe, so you'd put the always-on heater on the outlet and the temperature probe in the tank somewhere for it to decide when to switch it on.

If you have already had a low power heater in there and it's been too much, though, I would look for an even smaller one. While a smaller heater will have more trouble compensating for very low ambient temperatures (if the heating goes out in the winter, for example), if you can pick one that doesn't get too hot (maybe low to mid 80s?) when just always on, you have some extra insurance against a controller failure - though a failure on a dedicated controller is far, far less likely than the failure of a built in heater thermostat, which is relatively common.

76-80 is a little swingy for my tastes, but any of those temperatures would work. If you have confidence that your room temperature won't fluctuate too much (no one likes really hot or cold indoor temps, no drafts or direct sun nearby, etc.), then it will probably do. If it's really your lights adding the heat, you could try to increase their ventilation too, but there's a chance extra airflow around the top of the tank will also increase evaporation (cooling, but also ATO consumption).
It's definitely only the reef lights adding the heat, without the lights and in my freshwater tank the swing is within one degree. I tried a very low wattage beta heater, but that also made it way too hot. I will definitely check out those switch-on heaters, but are they pricey?
 

SandNRocks

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For a few options that work, I have a 3gal bowl with an inkbird and cheap amazon heater with no issues.
and i have a 2gal jar with this heater from amazon and no controller and have no issues as well.
IMG_1369.png
 
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derekg

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For a few options that work, I have a 3gal bowl with an inkbird and cheap amazon heater with no issues.
and i have a 2gal jar with this heater from amazon and no controller and have no issues as well.View attachment 3126046
ok thanks! what do you set it to and what is ur temp swing? I think my light and room just make it all too hot with a heater.
 

SandNRocks

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Room temperature fluctuates from like 55-75.
I set both jars at 78-79 and they don’t fluctuate at all. Lighting is a par38 bulb on one, cheap planted tank light on the other, both from amazon. Neither light produces enough heat to affect temp though.
 
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derekg

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Room temperature fluctuates from like 55-75.
I set both jars at 78-79 and they don’t fluctuate at all. Lighting is a par38 bulb on one, cheap planted tank light on the other, both from amazon. Neither light produces enough heat to affect temp though.
im also using a par38 from amazon. The 12w tunablue one and im also using a 2 gallon jar. I'm gonna try out this heater because our setups are so similar. How high are your lights over the tank, it never goes above 79? At the end of the day the bulb usually makes the tank go up around 3-4 degrees for me.
 
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derekg

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I used this heater (25 W version) for almost 3 years in a 2 gallon pico jar with good results, but maybe I was just lucky. I only took the pico down because the light disintegrated, heater was still working fine.


I agree though if you can really maintain 76-80 without a heater, that is a better option (cheaper and less risk).
So many people are telling me the same thing, that they had heaters in their picos and it was very stable and didnt swing. But for some reason no matter what heater I add to my tanks they rise up to mid to high 80s.
 

Jmp998

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So many people are telling me the same thing, that they had heaters in their picos and it was very stable and didnt swing. But for some reason no matter what heater I add to my tanks they rise up to mid to high 80s.
For sure there is some 'luck of the draw' with inexpensive heaters like this, but mine was extremely stable despite being somewhat overpowered. If you are going to really invest in the pico, the best option is to back up with a secondary thermostat (inkbird etc), as you can certainly cook a pico fast with a heater that sticks on.
 

SandNRocks

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im also using a par38 from amazon. The 12w tunablue one and im also using a 2 gallon jar. I'm gonna try out this heater because our setups are so similar. How high are your lights over the tank, it never goes above 79? At the end of the day the bulb usually makes the tank go up around 3-4 degrees for me.
Yeah same bulb and probably same if not similar jar. My light is 20” from the bottom of the bulb to the water line. I had to keep moving it up because i felt it was too powerful. Also idk about yours but mine produces basically no heat. I can touch it with my bare hands comfortably after its been on for 8hrs.
 
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derekg

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Yeah same bulb and probably same if not similar jar. My light is 20” from the bottom of the bulb to the water line. I had to keep moving it up because i felt it was too powerful. Also idk about yours but mine produces basically no heat. I can touch it with my bare hands comfortably after its been on for 8hrs.
Yea not much heat, but mines only 14 inches above. I'll raise it and probably get more stable temps. Thanks!
 

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