General questions for reef experts!

[Gabbone]

Hi guys,

I started my first Reef Tank 3 weeks ago and I have some questions so far. Maybe you can help me with your knowledge.

My current setup is an AIO 30G fishless cycled with live sand and dry fake rocks (I used a red sea mature starter kit). The lights have been off and I don't have algae. Just tiny brown stains on the purple dry rocks.
The filtration system in the sump is made of: White wool, 1 Sponge, Skimmer, 1 medium Sponge, Clear Fx pro all in one and Bioblocks.

1) Should I start putting the lights on? I'll have very soon 2 blue hermit crabs to start with (I'll feed them daily since there's nothing to eat for them).
2) Are 10 hours of light good to start?
3) Should I buy a little piece of live rock and put it in the tank to add some good bacteria and biodiversity?
4) Should I buy and add to the water some plankton? Or if you know other beneficial stuff?
5) With a very low-nutrient system like mine, is it okay to do a 5% water change weekly or 10% bi-weekly?
6) Regarding disease prep, I first put inverts, then corals and after a few months the environment is stable, add the first quarantined fish. Is that a good strategy?
7) Is It okay to feed inverts and fish with high-quality frozen food only?
8) Apart from the classic checkers (ammonia, no2, no3, ph, kdh, salinity, temp) which other water parameters are mandatory to monitor? (I am still a bit confused on this. ?Phosphorus, phosphates, magnesium, calcium?) How often do you test your water parameters after the tank is cycled?
9) Is vacuuming the live sand very necessary? If so, how often? Do you recommend a water vacuum?
10) Could you suggest me some marine mushrooms, polyps and LPS for beginners?
11) Can I clean the pump, skimmer and sponges in the water that I have to throw away when I do a water change?

Hope this post can summarise the best practises and help all new enthusiasts of this hobby!

Cheers!

 

[ryanjohn1]

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Sure can’t hurt
4. Microbactor 7
5. Regular testing will tell you but either is fine
6.fish first
7. Yes but I also have auto feeder for pellets during the day when I’m at work. I feed 3 times a day
8.calc,alk,no3,po4. And send out a lab test maybe every 6 months
9. If you vacuumed keep vacuuming. Otherwise get sand stirring live stock or lightly stir yourself
10. Dealers choice here. Zoas are pretty easy
11. When I clean pumps etc. I soak them in citric acid then scrub with tooth brush in the sink with hot water.

 

[CKW]

Excellent reply

 

[Gabbone]

Thanks guys! anyone else?

 

[ryanjohn1]

Btw. I’m not an expert. Just been at it quite a while

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Thanks guys! anyone else?

Ryanjohn got it pretty dead on.

 

[Cell]

Hi guys,

I started my first Reef Tank 3 weeks ago and I have some questions so far. Maybe you can help me with your knowledge.

My current setup is an AIO 30G fishless cycled with live sand and dry fake rocks (I used a red sea mature starter kit). The lights have been off and I don't have algae. Just tiny brown stains on the purple dry rocks.
The filtration system in the sump is made of: White wool, 1 Sponge, Skimmer, 1 medium Sponge, Clear Fx pro all in one and Bioblocks.

1) Should I start putting the lights on? I'll have very soon 2 blue hermit crabs to start with (I'll feed them daily since there's nothing to eat for them).
2) Are 10 hours of light good to start?
3) Should I buy a little piece of live rock and put it in the tank to add some good bacteria and biodiversity?
4) Should I buy and add to the water some plankton? Or if you know other beneficial stuff?
5) With a very low-nutrient system like mine, is it okay to do a 5% water change weekly or 10% bi-weekly?
6) Regarding disease prep, I first put inverts, then corals and after a few months the environment is stable, add the first quarantined fish. Is that a good strategy?
7) Is It okay to feed inverts and fish with high-quality frozen food only?
8) Apart from the classic checkers (ammonia, no2, no3, ph, kdh, salinity, temp) which other water parameters are mandatory to monitor? (I am still a bit confused on this. ?Phosphorus, phosphates, magnesium, calcium?) How often do you test your water parameters after the tank is cycled?
9) Is vacuuming the live sand very necessary? If so, how often? Do you recommend a water vacuum?
10) Could you suggest me some marine mushrooms, polyps and LPS for beginners?
11) Can I clean the pump, skimmer and sponges in the water that I have to throw away when I do a water change?

Hope this post can summarise the best practises and help all new enthusiasts of this hobby!

Cheers!

1. Yes, and you have diatoms starting.
2. Yes.
3. Yes.
4. Pods perhaps, but not necessary. No need to get crazy with additives or supplements just yet though.
5. Establish those good habits and routine as early as possible. Weekly or bi-weekly is fine.
6. Always QT your fish, you can slowly stock once cycled. Better to wait on coral if you can.
7. Generally, yes. Depends on stocking and supplements in food. Need some more algae if you are stocking tangs, for instance.
8. Ammonia test and nitrite only really needed or useful when cycling. For coral, you will want Alk, Ca, Mg, Nitrate, PO4. I'd go Hanna checker on Alk, Low range nitrate, and PO4. I'd use Salifert for Ca. I use Aquaforest Mg, but rarely test Mg.
9. Optional. The presence/absence of sand stirring livestock and feeding behavior might influence your choice.
10. Most non-bounce shrooms are beginner friendly, plenty of cheap options out there. Any cheaper zoa.
11. Yes.

 

[lil sumpin]

I’m a noob and this post will likely see some contesting but allow me to share what’s worked for me.

1) No. There’s nothing photosynthetic in there yet and while uglies will start to take hold regardless of lighting why allow them to even faster?
2) Lights on when you have your first corals. Start with 6-8 hours eventually ramping up to 8-10. Refer to 1, wait to turn lights on and ramp up slowly.
3) Yes, this will help biodiversity and maturity. Establishing a strong bio filter is key in this stage. If you’re able to, add LR or rubble from TBS or KP Aquatics
4) Add PNS Subtrate Sauce and Pro Bio. Diversify bacteria
5) In the first year, aim to do weekly water changes while testing 2-3 times a week.
6) Inverts, coral and then fish. I believe this is a good strategy as you should first cater your system to coral and then fish you plan on keeping. Observe the fish and QT if necessary.
7) Frozen food is great but aim to feed a variety of high quality flake and pellet foods as well.
8) Get your hands on Saliferts alkalinity and calcium test kits to start. Nitrate and phosphate will become more crucial before and while you add livestock. You’ll want the Hanna photometers for those.
9) Yes, it’s good to vacuum sections each time you do a water change. If you do this weekly, it’ll save you lots of headache in the long run. A Python will do. You can automate testing, water changes and whatever else but husbandry you can’t. So make a habit of it from the get.
10) Get a small frag of Xenia or GSP, low stakes and while they’re generally regarded as weeds they won’t spread crazily if you keep isolated on a rock or plug. Duncans are a hardy LPS.
11) Sponges and equipment you can rinse out in WC water but when deep cleaning devices I would rinse in hot water, soak in citric acid and finally rinse in RODI.