Fritz Salt Issues?

Proteus Meep

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I hope things turn around for you Crabs Mcjones and you get to the solution soon without too much pain,

Quite topical with Rico's suspicions...I do feel for Rico and his issue, something is well and truly on the fritz with his system and it may well be a bad salt batch especially as it is effecting his frag system as well...but if his frag system is connected to his main system there was another what i consider rather bullish recent possibly destabilising event of adding 150 mexican turbo snails to his tank to clear an algae issue which is not only a rather quick change to the bioload but also the nutrients the algae was consuming is now not being dealt with by it...seems like another potential smoking gun that he hasn't considered
 

Flippers4pups

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Talking about phosphate levels of the salt now. If your phosphate levels are elevated and you dont have a good enough ratio of nitrates your corals will slowly die also. Just some acros and monti that I've experienced personally. Did you do a nitrate reading at this said point?

Never tested freshly made saltwater, never needed to do that.

Water parameters of my system have been very consistent over the years.

DSC_0126.JPG


All water parameters were tested during my die off and were consistent with parameters before the change to Fritz.

Hopefully this answers your questions.
 

Tyler Bullock

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Whaz up bro. I guess my 2 cents

My 2 cents I see a commonly trending comment. Everyone is getting 0.03 or less with their phosphates. If your tanks are use to higher Phosphorus levels and you make the switch to a salt that mixes really low it could be everyone's issue. From what I've heard Fritz does reject batches that mix over 0.02 for phosphates. There is a quality control number on every box.

These test kits arent pin point accurate with a pretty wide range of tolerance. Nobody can say 100% its Fritz.

In their defense I've been using it for a year or so went thru 5 or 6 boxes of the stuff. No issue likely due to my system being use to low or ULR readings already.
I think the most likely suspect is this not testing and fixing the issues before they become major issues.

The most likely issue and it seems common with all these comments, low Phophate = SLOWLY KILLING YOUR CORALS. Same thing that is happening in Australia. Nitrogen is eating up all the phosphates starving the corals.

Theres always the human err margain to think about. Especially testing


So what about us that have ran p04 from .03 to .05? With similar results as crabs and others in this thread. You telling us to run p04 at 1.0?
 

paraletho

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I had problems with Fritz but it was high magnesium. The tank was up to 1700 by the time I caught it. Fresh mix was over 1900. I have been using Live Aquaria Pro but I suspect as others do that it is just rebranded Fritz. It has about the same price point, same box with different graphics, same tie wrap securing bag etc. Maybe better QC because of contract? I havent had any problems but I am watching like a hawk.
 

Reefahholic

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@paraletho when did you buy the box of fritz with high mag? Trying to see if there is a trend in timeline.

I just noticed that when I started the Fritz around the first of April...my PO4 did take a dive. This could be a coincidence, but it definitely went lower.

 

Falreef

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Using Instant Ocean Reef Crystals and sticking to it.
Have only All-In-One tanks or tanks with HOB filters.
Using various medias, Pads, Purigen, Chemipure, Chemipure Elite, Matrix, etc.
No sumps, no dosing pumps, no chillers.
Each tank looks a little different in biotope.
Very cool for a SCUBA diver and enthusiast.
Tanks all thriving. All packed with Fish, Corals, invertebrates.
Have survived 3 apocalypses that ruined my original attempts.
Two weather and power related, lost everything.
Another was the failure of a 30 Gallon JBJ Rimless tank that spontaneously cracked and created an emergency need
for a replacement tank.
What followed was the addition of 3 other tanks and a switch from 30 Gallon to 65 Gallon Red Sea Max 250.
My testing has gone from very frequent, weekly if not more, to rare.
Last full testing over 6 months ago.
Supplements are all hand dosed.
One tank - 30 Long Innovative Marine in office, gets even less done. Water change about every 2 months, about 15-20% (about 5-7 gallons).
Tanks at home get about 10-15 % water changes about every 2 weeks.
Autotop off with RODI - which runs at 3-8 TDS (usually around 3, starts at 0 and quickly goes to 2-4 on well water, within 40-60 gallons).

65 Gallon Red Sea Max 250 now complete, can't stuff it with any more corals. At least 19 fish in there.
Giant weeping willow fragged to 2/3 of original size back in March (to get ready for NY/NJ reefapalooza) got frags from 1/2" to 2" and one or two 3". About 18 frags in total. I've still got about 6 or 7 left. The mother colony is back to nearly original size in 6 months. Sand bed.
33 Long - Top tank of a stand is mostly a collection of anemones and growing out frags of GSP, Weeping Willow Toadstool, Mushrooms, Royal Green Crown Leather, an Eleganse coral, Zoas. Anemones from long tentacle green, Three Rose Bubble Tips, Two Rainbow Rose bubbletips, one Green bubble tip, one Acid Wash Green Bubbletip, multiple rock anemones. Barebottom. Stax rocks and some Live Rock. 10 or so fish in there.
33 Long - Bottom tank of a stand is filled with Pulsing Xenia, Anthelia, Torches, GSP, Zoas, Tyree Neon Green long tentacle Toadstool, Neon cabbage leather, Blue clove polyps, Mushrooms. Mostly all live rock - just 3 moderately sized pieces with some rubble. Bare bottom. 10 or so fish in there.
Fluval 5 Evo. Anthelia, Hammer, Arctic palys, Stardust palys, Armor of God palys, Monti cap orange, Neon platygyra, some yellow psammacora with long purple polyps/feeding tentacles, Nuclear green palys, mushrooms. 8 fish in there.
29 High - mostly a frag tank with a bit of everything. Hammers, chalices, toadstool, GSP, Zoas, Palys, Montipora, Red tabling milliapora. Bare bottom. 1 small yellow tang. Many critters with hermits, emerald crabs, snails, peppermint shrimp.
30 Long - packed full of mostly soft stuff, Zoas, Palys, Leathers, but have a few acans, a chalice, GSP, Hammer, Frogspawn, Candy cane, Favia and actually this tank, which I do the least on, is actually growing some SPS - Pocilopora, Stylophora and a couple acroporas. Sand bed. 12 fish in there.
That's what I've got running in my Hobby (now nearly 3 years into reef keeping and saltwater.
Add to that 9 Freshwater Tanks.
All told, time in hobby as an Aquarist - 53 years.
Lifetime member of the ACA.
 

Joeygee23

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I experienced the same thing. I started a biopellet reactor and switched to Live Aquaria salt. My montis where almost immediately affected. Never completely bleached out. I suspected it was the salt and perhaps an increase in clarity was causing burning. I've continued using salt and montis are slowly recuperating. Bad batch? Too much change at once? Who knows but since I exhausted bucket and now using a new box, things seem stable.

20190908_140557.jpg 20190908_140535.jpg 20190908_140527.jpg 20190908_140502.jpg
 

Anthony Scholfield

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Using Instant Ocean Reef Crystals and sticking to it.
Have only All-In-One tanks or tanks with HOB filters.
Using various medias, Pads, Purigen, Chemipure, Chemipure Elite, Matrix, etc.
No sumps, no dosing pumps, no chillers.
Each tank looks a little different in biotope.
Very cool for a SCUBA diver and enthusiast.
Tanks all thriving. All packed with Fish, Corals, invertebrates.
Have survived 3 apocalypses that ruined my original attempts.
Two weather and power related, lost everything.
Another was the failure of a 30 Gallon JBJ Rimless tank that spontaneously cracked and created an emergency need
for a replacement tank.
What followed was the addition of 3 other tanks and a switch from 30 Gallon to 65 Gallon Red Sea Max 250.
My testing has gone from very frequent, weekly if not more, to rare.
Last full testing over 6 months ago.
Supplements are all hand dosed.
One tank - 30 Long Innovative Marine in office, gets even less done. Water change about every 2 months, about 15-20% (about 5-7 gallons).
Tanks at home get about 10-15 % water changes about every 2 weeks.
Autotop off with RODI - which runs at 3-8 TDS (usually around 3, starts at 0 and quickly goes to 2-4 on well water, within 40-60 gallons).

65 Gallon Red Sea Max 250 now complete, can't stuff it with any more corals. At least 19 fish in there.
Giant weeping willow fragged to 2/3 of original size back in March (to get ready for NY/NJ reefapalooza) got frags from 1/2" to 2" and one or two 3". About 18 frags in total. I've still got about 6 or 7 left. The mother colony is back to nearly original size in 6 months. Sand bed.
33 Long - Top tank of a stand is mostly a collection of anemones and growing out frags of GSP, Weeping Willow Toadstool, Mushrooms, Royal Green Crown Leather, an Eleganse coral, Zoas. Anemones from long tentacle green, Three Rose Bubble Tips, Two Rainbow Rose bubbletips, one Green bubble tip, one Acid Wash Green Bubbletip, multiple rock anemones. Barebottom. Stax rocks and some Live Rock. 10 or so fish in there.
33 Long - Bottom tank of a stand is filled with Pulsing Xenia, Anthelia, Torches, GSP, Zoas, Tyree Neon Green long tentacle Toadstool, Neon cabbage leather, Blue clove polyps, Mushrooms. Mostly all live rock - just 3 moderately sized pieces with some rubble. Bare bottom. 10 or so fish in there.
Fluval 5 Evo. Anthelia, Hammer, Arctic palys, Stardust palys, Armor of God palys, Monti cap orange, Neon platygyra, some yellow psammacora with long purple polyps/feeding tentacles, Nuclear green palys, mushrooms. 8 fish in there.
29 High - mostly a frag tank with a bit of everything. Hammers, chalices, toadstool, GSP, Zoas, Palys, Montipora, Red tabling milliapora. Bare bottom. 1 small yellow tang. Many critters with hermits, emerald crabs, snails, peppermint shrimp.
30 Long - packed full of mostly soft stuff, Zoas, Palys, Leathers, but have a few acans, a chalice, GSP, Hammer, Frogspawn, Candy cane, Favia and actually this tank, which I do the least on, is actually growing some SPS - Pocilopora, Stylophora and a couple acroporas. Sand bed. 12 fish in there.
That's what I've got running in my Hobby (now nearly 3 years into reef keeping and saltwater.
Add to that 9 Freshwater Tanks.
All told, time in hobby as an Aquarist - 53 years.
Lifetime member of the ACA.

This is all great but I'm not sure how it relates to the conversation and experience with the potential problem.
 

Falreef

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I'm just new to this and can't get the posts right.

Instant Ocean Reef Crystals since I started.
Will continue.
I know what it is, my routine and what I get from it.
Have tested - pH, Salinity, dKH, Magnesium and Calcium on a few others, liked the numbers on the IO Reef Crystals,
also least expensive of the bunch, been around the longest.
So that's where I am.
 
OP
OP
Crabs McJones

Crabs McJones

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Question for everyone #reefsquad
Is there anything that DI resin and a TDS meter reading 0TDS that can get through due to exhausted prefilters and cause my issue?
 

Mrtakeoff53

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I bought two boxes of LA salt and now I’m freaking out. o_O
The thing I noticed with my LA salt issues was that all testable parameters were 100% where I needed them to be. Nothing was out of whack at all. Literally the only thing I changed was my salt to get my tank to recover. May have been a bad batch. They can all have bad batches but the funny thing about it was that I could not test for any errors because nothing was showing up as being off. It drove me insane.
 

Angrywalnut

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The thing I noticed with my LA salt issues was that all testable parameters were 100% where I needed them to be. Nothing was out of whack at all. Literally the only thing I changed was my salt to get my tank to recover. May have been a bad batch. They can all have bad batches but the funny thing about it was that I could not test for any errors because nothing was showing up as being off. It drove me insane.

+1
 

Mrtakeoff53

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Question for everyone #reefsquad
Is there anything that DI resin and a TDS meter reading 0TDS that can get through due to exhausted prefilters and cause my issue?
Chloramines are the only thing that will not read on a TDS. However, they’d have to get by carbon AND the RO membrane. Carbon will easily take care of them as long as they still have life in them.
 
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