Fluval Evo 13.5 Chamber 2 Hole Plugged

[FJReck63]

Hi Folks!

Started up an Evo 13.5 reef tank 2 weeks ago, doing research I found out about the InTank media baskets for Ch1 and 2 and the plug for Ch2 as well....
I took the Fluval PS2 skimmer out, put both InTank media baskets in and plugged Ch2 hole with the supplied plug....Within an hour or so, the water temp increased from 79.3 to 82.0, with nothing else changing....Is this normal for having the Ch2 hole plugged?
I adjusted the tank heater to cool it down some, and the return pump Ch3 has less water in it now than before the change.
Any guidance or ideas would be appreciated!
The tank for now has 3 coral frags, 2 turbo snails, and 2 small hermit crabs in it.

Thanks!

Franz in NJ

 

[Eagle_Steve]

When you plug the hole, it creates more flow across the heater and allows the water to be heated more equally, so temps can rise when this is first done Especially if heater was turned up to account for keeping temps with not as much water flowing past the heater.. This is fixed by adjusting the heater, which you already did.

Also, when you plug the hole, the chambers will hold more water, vs equalizing with the display portion. Adjustment to the return chamber will need to be made due to this. You will just add a bit more SW to the return chamber to set it at the level you want. Then top it off according to that level or set you ATO sensor to that level to maintain it. If you do not have an ATO, make that your next purchase. An ATO on a nano is a good investment. It helps keep salinity stable and prevents large swings in salinity, which is common in nanos if they evaporate at a high rate.

 

[KaitCorals]

I don't have an answer franz but post pics of your journey.

- Love Kait!

 

[FJReck63]

When you plug the hole, it creates more flow across the heater and allows the water to be heated more equally, so temps can rise when this is first done Especially if heater was turned up to account for keeping temps with not as much water flowing past the heater.. This is fixed by adjusting the heater, which you already did.

Also, when you plug the hole, the chambers will hold more water, vs equalizing with the display portion. Adjustment to the return chamber will need to be made due to this. You will just add a bit more SW to the return chamber to set it at the level you want. Then top it off according to that level or set you ATO sensor to that level to maintain it. If you do not have an ATO, make that your next purchase. An ATO on a nano is a good investment. It helps keep salinity stable and prevents large swings in salinity, which is common in nanos if they evaporate at a high rate.

Thanks for that explanation, makes sense!
Could you recommend a smaller ATO? I don't have a lot of room underneath the tank.

Thanks again!
Franz in NJ

 

[FJReck63]

I don't have an answer franz but post pics of your journey.

- Love Kait!

I'll try to get some pics posted up soon!

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Thanks for that explanation, makes sense!
Could you recommend a smaller ATO? I don't have a lot of room underneath the tank.

Thanks again!
Franz in NJ

Tunze is a great ATO, but out of stock in most places.
The reefbreeders prism is what I am using on my biocube 32. It works great.
I also use the duetto dual sensor on my QT tank.

Most ATOs work well, you just have to be sure that the included pump with the kit will pull/push water up to the tank.

Here is a link where you can compare all 3 mentioned.

Aquarium Auto Top Off Systems

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[FJReck63]

I'll try to get some pics posted up soon!

Here’s what it looked like day one wet…

 

[FJReck63]

A week later, we added a few frags just for giggles….

 

[FJReck63]

Tunze is a great ATO, but out of stock in most places.
The reefbreeders prism is what I am using on my biocube 32. It works great.
I also use the duetto dual sensor on my QT tank.

Most ATOs work well, you just have to be sure that the included pump with the kit will pull/push water up to the tank.

Here is a link where you can compare all 3 mentioned.

Aquarium Auto Top Off Systems

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Thanks for the info!

 

[FJReck63]

So the tank has been running for 3 weeks or so, I bought the Intank Chamber 1 and Chamber 2 media baskets, what is everyone with a Fluval Evo13.5 running in these baskets and in what order?
I'm starting to see some detritus/stuff on the sand bed and the rock....I have filter pad material in the top of Chamber 1 basket, followed by the ceramic media pack that came with the tank in the second bay of chamber 1, and some bio-balls in the very bottom of Chamber 1....Then in the Chamber 2 Intank basket, I have just some more filter pad material in the upper bay, and nothing else for now...
I've seen some folks using ChemiPure Blue in Chamber 1, should I be using that as well?
I'll post params for water later today...

 

[FJReck63]

So the tank has been running for 3 weeks or so, I bought the Intank Chamber 1 and Chamber 2 media baskets, what is everyone with a Fluval Evo13.5 running in these baskets and in what order?
I'm starting to see some detritus/stuff on the sand bed and the rock....I have filter pad material in the top of Chamber 1 basket, followed by the ceramic media pack that came with the tank in the second bay of chamber 1, and some bio-balls in the very bottom of Chamber 1....Then in the Chamber 2 Intank basket, I have just some more filter pad material in the upper bay, and nothing else for now...
I've seen some folks using ChemiPure Blue in Chamber 1, should I be using that as well?
I'll post params for water later today...

Here’s some photos from today….

Thanks for any suggestions or help!
Franz in NJ

 

[FJReck63]

Introducing Fran and Ollie, my first ever clowns….
Acclimated them last afternoon, first thing this morning they looked hungry and ate some Nano reef frenzy pretty well….
Fingers crossed, we’ll keep checking water params every day for a bit….

Franz in NJ

 

[Simon_M]

I have the same tank and added the InTank Chamber 1 and Chamber 2 media baskets which I like.

Both media baskets come with "free" plugs for the hole in Chamber 2. The Intank Chamber 1 also comes with a "free" weir".

I did some experiments with changing the water levels and also using the weir (U shaped piece of plastic).

The plug that is added to chamber 2 has the effect of stopping the filter media being bypassed but also alters the pressures in the three chambers and affects the water heights.

The plug with Chamber 1 is a good idea but the same plug supplied with Chamber 2 seems redundant because, whilst not everyone will buy both media baskets, the back wall of Chamber 2 is blocked by the clear back of the InTank Chamber 2 media basket, so the effect of the plug is minimal. More so if you don't have the media basket.

The plastic weir has a negative effect when levels drop. Set a level and then remove a litre of water and you will see the levels change as the pressures (and heights) equalise. Removing the plastic weir, minimises the change to the levels and I can't see that it has much value. I only keep it because I don't let levels in the tank drop and evaporation with the cover is minimal anyway.

I do have the fluval heater. It is thinner than most heaters and is supposed to fit along with the pump in the third chamber. I found it difficult to poke it down beside the pump. It doesn't seem a good idea to have a hot heater wedged in against the pump and pressed against the glass and the plastic dividers. An issue was that it also presses the pump against the tank sides and the vibration (sound) passed through is annoying. The pump is anything but silent.

I had to move the heater into the main tank to limit the noise from the pump - it is no longer pressed against the tank sides. The annoying thing is that Fluval recommend this heater and so did my LFS but, knowing what I know, I would have chosen something more compact. The heater in the tank is anything but unobtrusive.

The variation in the tank temperature is simply explained by how the water doesn't flow around the heater. Water passes into the base of Chamber 3 and is then removed by the pump to the main tank. The column of heated water is therefore trapped and doesn't pass to the main tank. It doesn't help that the plastic walls insulate the heated water and so transfer to the main tank isn't great.

If the height in Chamber 3 drops too much then it uncovers the temperature sensor above the heater and so regulation will be affected. There is a minimum line on the heater for a reason as removing the heater will also cause it to break if it is switched on or adding a hot heater back to water is also a problem. Of course if the third chamber was emptied, then the pump would run dry and fail too. With so much evaporation - salinity would also have changed and the fish probably wouldn't hank you for the increase!