Fleece Roller Mat

[wrgoff]

I have had my tank (240 g) running since 2019.

I first had it running with 2 Eheim canister filters (that I had left over from my years of having an African Cichlid tank). A hang on the back protein skimmer, and a fluidized sand bed filter. I ran it this way for about 3 years. That was a maintenance nightmare. While my Ammonia levels were 0, my nitrate (70+) and nitrite (40+) levels were all ways high.

I then switched a sump. I bit the bullet and bought a Synergy Reef Sump, auto top off and a Shadow Overflow (V3). Down right gorgeous. It had two 7 inch filter socks. I also added a beefy Aquamaxx ConeS DCQ-3. After doing all the plumbing with custom colors (black and yellow), and yes I had to drill the tank. Which was easy being it is acrylic (Just like doing wood). FYI, I am a wood worker, and built my custom stand.

I changed the filter socks out every 3 days. But I was still always trying to get my nitrate and nitrite levels down. It seem like no matter what I did, they stayed constant. With Nitrate around 30, and nitrite around 13. Interestingly my ammonia levels were always reading ".11".

Then BRS had a sale on the Aquamaxx - AF1 fleece roller mat. I ended up getting it for $160. So I thought why not. The only real issue I would have to cut my beautiful sump. I ended up cutting out the filter socks, with just a jigsaw and a metal cutting blade (need fine teeth).

So fast forward. I have had the roller mat running since 9 June. And finally my water parameters are looking like they should

Nitrates: 5.0 (from 29.9) before I installed the roller mat.
Nitrites: 3.0 (from 13.0) before.

Now here is the interesting thing.

Ammonia: .11 this was at .12. This is kind of making me wonder if my test kit is right. Since I am color blind I like the test kits that don't have me trying to match colors. I am using the Hanna Marine Master Bluetooth Multiparameter Photometer HI97115.

Has anyone else experienced this? I know my ammonia levels should be 0. But I can't seems to get them there.

 

[Rappa]

Oh man that must have hurt like hell to cut that beautiful sump! Too bad it wasn't an SK-60...

Maybe get a bio brick and some Florida Live Rock to load up into that huge refugium that you have.... That would work great to bring those number down I would think?

PS - I have the Synergy SK-60 sump and I love it.

 

[wrgoff]

Oh man that must have hurt like hell to cut that beautiful sump! Too bad it wasn't an SK-60...

Maybe get a bio brick and some Florida Live Rock to load up into that huge refugium that you have.... That would work great to bring those number down I would think?

PS - I have the Synergy SK-60 sump and I love it.

I have added "miracle mud". And am still added more live rock. I have also added a large reactor with chemipure, and I still have my sand filter (which I love). The numbers are really coming down. My only concern was the ammonia numbers. But after doing some more reading. It looks like any value under ".25" is of no concern. And mine have been reading .13 to .11 for a while.

I really wish I would have spend the extra bucks and got the CL-60 that was roller mat ready. It would have cost me like $200 more, but would have been totally worth it.

 

[exnisstech]

I wouldn't even bother testing ammonia or nitrite. Your tank is cycled and ammonia readings are usually false unless you have some type of dye off. Disclaimer I haven't owned an ammonia or nitrite test kit since leaving fresh water over 8 years ago. Even when I cycle a tank I just look for nitrates then proceed slowly.

 

[Rappa]

I have added "miracle mud". And am still added more live rock. I have also added a large reactor with chemipure, and I still have my sand filter (which I love). The numbers are really coming down. My only concern was the ammonia numbers. But after doing some more reading. It looks like any value under ".25" is of no concern. And mine have been reading .13 to .11 for a while.

I really wish I would have spend the extra bucks and got the CL-60 that was roller mat ready. It would have cost me like $200 more, but would have been totally worth it.

Yeah that is the "SK-60" which is the one I bought. Looks identical to yours, except they give you plates to adapt to Clarisea filter rollers. It was the best decision that I made when looking at sumps. I love it... and the Synergy sump is really sharp looking. That atomic green color looks sick under a cheap led blacklight lightbulb!

 

[wrgoff]

Your running 2 Clariseas. How big is your tank? I am only running 1 AF-1. for my 240 gallon (and another 100 or so for the sump). So total volumn I have at roughly 300 gallons.

 

[wrgoff]

My total numbers for me right now are looking pretty good.

Sal: 34 ppm
PH: 8.2
ALK: 10.9
AMM: .11
Mag: 1415
Calc: 586
Nitrate: 5.0
Nitrite: 3.0
Phos: .9
Temp: 78

So other than the Phosphate magnesium, and Calc being a little high. I am pretty happy.

 

[Rappa]

Your running 2 Clariseas. How big is your tank? I am only running 1 AF-1. for my 240 gallon (and another 100 or so for the sump). So total volumn I have at roughly 300 gallons.

My tank size and sump are almost exactly the same as yours. My tank is probably 220-ish and the sump and long return pipe from the basement probably hold another 100-ish. I bought 2 Clarisea's because they went on sale for 50% off on BRS and I thought it was too good to pass up. I was going to only use 1 of them, but unless you plumb the Clarisea's directly to your return pipe, they only do about 400GPH being gravity fed through the crashbox. So I installed the other one, and my flow is exactly 800GPH and they run well that way (without overflowing the crashbox). I was typically running around 800GPH flow with the large filter socks before the Clarisea's... so I didn't have to alter my flow, or plumb them direct. I do suffer from high nutrients, and they are helping me get them down. It's amazing actually... I dose Phophate-E and the motors instantly start rolling fleece up, so I know the PO4 is binding up and the rollers are working great to remove the bound Phosphate. Try it sometime! Dose a little right into the water in the roller mat and the level rises instantly.

I"m curious since our systems are similar in size... what are you running for flow through the sump? I am running an AC pump, pumping through an Aqua57 U-V from my return pump to the display. I would probably go a little higher flow if I wasn't using the U-V. I do have a sandbed, your tank looks bare bottom?

 

[wrgoff]

My tank size and sump are almost exactly the same as yours. My tank is probably 220-ish and the sump and long return pipe from the basement probably hold another 100-ish. I bought 2 Clarisea's because they went on sale for 50% off on BRS and I thought it was too good to pass up. I was going to only use 1 of them, but unless you plumb the Clarisea's directly to your return pipe, they only do about 400GPH being gravity fed through the crashbox. So I installed the other one, and my flow is exactly 800GPH and they run well that way (without overflowing the crashbox). I was typically running around 800GPH flow with the large filter socks before the Clarisea's... so I didn't have to alter my flow, or plumb them direct. I do suffer from high nutrients, and they are helping me get them down. It's amazing actually... I dose Phophate-E and the motors instantly start rolling fleece up, so I know the PO4 is binding up and the rollers are working great to remove the bound Phosphate. Try it sometime! Dose a little right into the water in the roller mat and the level rises instantly.

I"m curious since our systems are similar in size... what are you running for flow through the sump? I am running an AC pump, pumping through an Aqua57 U-V from my return pump to the display. I would probably go a little higher flow if I wasn't using the U-V. I do have a sandbed, your tank looks bare bottom?

Okay that makes sense now. The ClariSea only has 1 inch inlet connectors. So yours are ClariSea SK-3000? The AF-1 does give me a 1.5 inch inlet (which is partly why I chose it). I just couldn't pass up the price. at $160 it was a steal.

I have mine AF-1, plumbed directly to my drain pipe. Pipe goes down into the crash box, then does a 90 degree over to where my AF-1 is, and directly into it. I could be happier. They Aquamaxx claims a flow rate of 1320 gph, but I doubt if I am getting that. I am assuming between 700-900 gph (if I am lucky).

I am running two Current USA eFlux 6011 DC Flow Pumps (3170 gph each), at around 25%.

My tank is not bare bottom. I actually have a "black" sand bed. I love it. But it does create its own issues.

I did create a manifold, and divert water back to my Fluidized bed filter (FB-300), and a Bashsea 6-12 media reactor with ChemiPure Blue.

I just ordered a bunch of Zoas from WorldWideCorals. They will be here 1 Aug. I am so looking forward to it.

 

[wrgoff]

Okay that makes sense now. The ClariSea only has 1 inch inlet connectors. So yours are ClariSea SK-3000? The AF-1 does give me a 1.5 inch inlet (which is partly why I chose it). I just couldn't pass up the price. at $160 it was a steal.

I have mine AF-1, plumbed directly to my drain pipe. Pipe goes down into the crash box, then does a 90 degree over to where my AF-1 is, and directly into it. I could be happier. They Aquamaxx claims a flow rate of 1320 gph, but I doubt if I am getting that. I am assuming between 700-900 gph (if I am lucky).

I am running two Current USA eFlux 6011 DC Flow Pumps (3170 gph each), at around 25%.

My tank is not bare bottom. I actually have a "black" sand bed. I love it. But it does create its own issues.

I did create a manifold, and divert water back to my Fluidized bed filter (FB-300), and a Bashsea 6-12 media reactor with ChemiPure Blue.

I just ordered a bunch of Zoas from WorldWideCorals. They will be here 1 Aug. I am so looking forward to it.

Looks like you dose Alk and Calc? Is that correct?

 

[wrgoff]

My tank size and sump are almost exactly the same as yours. My tank is probably 220-ish and the sump and long return pipe from the basement probably hold another 100-ish. I bought 2 Clarisea's because they went on sale for 50% off on BRS and I thought it was too good to pass up. I was going to only use 1 of them, but unless you plumb the Clarisea's directly to your return pipe, they only do about 400GPH being gravity fed through the crashbox. So I installed the other one, and my flow is exactly 800GPH and they run well that way (without overflowing the crashbox). I was typically running around 800GPH flow with the large filter socks before the Clarisea's... so I didn't have to alter my flow, or plumb them direct. I do suffer from high nutrients, and they are helping me get them down. It's amazing actually... I dose Phophate-E and the motors instantly start rolling fleece up, so I know the PO4 is binding up and the rollers are working great to remove the bound Phosphate. Try it sometime! Dose a little right into the water in the roller mat and the level rises instantly.

I"m curious since our systems are similar in size... what are you running for flow through the sump? I am running an AC pump, pumping through an Aqua57 U-V from my return pump to the display. I would probably go a little higher flow if I wasn't using the U-V. I do have a sandbed, your tank looks bare bottom?

Looks like you dose Alk and Calc? Is that correct?

 

[Rappa]

Okay that makes sense now. The ClariSea only has 1 inch inlet connectors. So yours are ClariSea SK-3000? The AF-1 does give me a 1.5 inch inlet (which is partly why I chose it). I just couldn't pass up the price. at $160 it was a steal.

I have mine AF-1, plumbed directly to my drain pipe. Pipe goes down into the crash box, then does a 90 degree over to where my AF-1 is, and directly into it. I could be happier. They Aquamaxx claims a flow rate of 1320 gph, but I doubt if I am getting that. I am assuming between 700-900 gph (if I am lucky).

I am running two Current USA eFlux 6011 DC Flow Pumps (3170 gph each), at around 25%.

My tank is not bare bottom. I actually have a "black" sand bed. I love it. But it does create its own issues.

I did create a manifold, and divert water back to my Fluidized bed filter (FB-300), and a Bashsea 6-12 media reactor with ChemiPure Blue.

I just ordered a bunch of Zoas from WorldWideCorals. They will be here 1 Aug. I am so looking forward to it.

These are SK-5000's Gen-3. But yes they are a 1" inlet nonetheless... I did cut out every other tooth on the inside pvc inlet spray bar to allow more flow into the roller area. Helped a little bit. I wish I knew for sure if I could have done DC pumps, but my sump is in the basement on the opposite side of the house and 11'ft lift to the tank. I went with the AC pump after talking with some people that ensured me that it was the way to go for my setup...

 

[wrgoff]

These are SK-5000's Gen-3. But yes they are a 1" inlet nonetheless... I did cut out every other tooth on the inside pvc inlet spray bar to allow more flow into the roller area. Helped a little bit. I wish I knew for sure if I culd have done DC pumps, but my sump is in the basement on the opposite side of the house and 11'ft lift to the tank. I went with the AC pump after talking with some people that ensured me that it was the way to go for my setup...

Wow.. 11 feet. My pumps only have to go 3 feet (maybe)...

They claim the SK-5000s will do 1300 gph. Not sure how you get that through a 1 inch gravity feed line. My research had it at 960 GPH. And 1.5 inch max would be 2100 gph. Now I don't think I am getting any where near 2100 gph.

How Much Water Can Flow Through A Pipe (GPM/GPH)?

Three tables to get a general understanding of water flow capacity through a pipe or roof drain. If you have questions, contact our roof Drain Wizard.

resources.hy-techroof.com

 

[Rappa]

Looks like you dose Alk and Calc? Is that correct?

I started out dosing Alk, Calcium, Mag, and was dosing nitrates and phosphates a little here and there, after my tank bottomed out. I now have a GEO calcium reactor and I use the DOS's to make adjustment doses only when needed. For example, today I dosed calcium because my cal level was down to 385. I created virtual outlet switches to dose 20 and 40 ml of ALK and Calcium. It's so nice and easy to just press the button on my phone when needed. Once a month or so I may need to make adjustment doses... Tank is only a year old. I think once the tank is more established with corals growing and stable, rocks not storing and leaching nutrients, etc... I will dial the CaRx in perfectly and not have to do this as often.

 

[Rappa]

Wow.. 11 feet. My pumps only have to go 3 feet (maybe)...

They claim the SK-5000s will do 1300 gph. Not sure how you get that through a 1 inch gravity feed line. My research had it at 960 GPH. And 1.5 inch max would be 2100 gph. Now I don't think I am getting any where near 2100 gph.

How Much Water Can Flow Through A Pipe (GPM/GPH)?

Three tables to get a general understanding of water flow capacity through a pipe or roof drain. If you have questions, contact our roof Drain Wizard.

resources.hy-techroof.com

They will do 1300GPH but only if plumbed directly into the drains. That might be in the fine print somewhere... I know Rick at Synergy has done some testing on this as well, after he had some issues with people letting him know about the flow issues. He now states that to get the maximum flow rate, you have to plumb direct. He was going by what Clarisea was stating initially, however, real world wasn't matching up.

 

[MyAquarium]

Your running 2 Clariseas. How big is your tank? I am only running 1 AF-1. for my 240 gallon (and another 100 or so for the sump). So total volumn I have at roughly 300 gallons.

IIMHO 300 GPH for a 240-gallon tank will work, but it's not coming close to optimizing that awesome sump and filter setup. IMHO, you should increase the flow rate to 980 GPH 4X to 2400 GPH 10X. The more you pump through that sump, the more you take advantage of your investment in that great filter setup. It's probably as simple as that. Your 1 AF-1 handles up to 1,320 GPH, so if you go more, you probably need to Consider the Reefmat 1200. You could get another AF-1 and split your return line with a ball valve on each return and maybe an APEX and Apex water-flow monitor to ensure they are dialed in correctly. Sounds like a lot of extra monitoring and extra moving parts that would personally drive me nuts. Unless you have seahorses or some other very special types of inhabitants, dial it up! I know people have different opinions on flow, but I usually rely on one person's opinion, which is mother nature. The ocean is very rough, with more flow than we will probably get close to in our tanks. Marine life loves flow, and once everything like your fuge, skimmer, and UV is dialed in, more flow will make them work that much better! Just ask Mother Nature. She knows best.

 

[wrgoff]

IIMHO 300 GPH for a 240-gallon tank will work, but it's not coming close to optimizing that awesome sump and filter setup. IMHO, you should increase the flow rate to 980 GPH 4X to 2400 GPH 10X. The more you pump through that sump, the more you take advantage of your investment in that great filter setup. It's probably as simple as that. Your 1 AF-1 handles up to 1,320 GPH, so if you go more, you probably need to Consider the Reefmat 1200. You could get another AF-1 and split your return line with a ball valve on each return and maybe an APEX and Apex water-flow monitor to ensure they are dialed in correctly. Sounds like a lot of extra monitoring and extra moving parts that would personally drive me nuts. Unless you have seahorses or some other very special types of inhabitants, dial it up! I know people have different opinions on flow, but I usually rely on one person's opinion, which is mother nature. The ocean is very rough, with more flow than we will probably get close to in our tanks. Marine life loves flow, and once everything like your fuge, skimmer, and UV is dialed in, more flow will make them work that much better! Just ask Mother Nature. She knows best.

Not sure what your trying to add here. Myself and Rappa, have very similar setups. We are both running 60 series Synergy reef sumps and similar sized tanks. He is running 2 ClariSeas. While I am running 1 AF-1. The difference in the rollermats is the ClariSea has a 1 inch inlet, and the AF-1 has a 1.5 inch inlet. ClariSea claims a flow rate up to 1300 GPH. What I was adding is, Everything I have read said that flow rate (1300 GPH) is not possible with a 1 inch gravity feed drain. The chart I supplied states a max flow rate of 960 GPH. Now the max flow rate for 1.5 inch gravity feed drain is 2100 GPH. The Aquamaxx AF-1 claims a flow rate of 1320), and I am running pretty close to that, if not over it. I have two Current USA eFlux 6011 DC flow Pumps, capable of 3170 GPH, pushing water only about 3 feet, with the bends I have I am still capable for each pump to move over 2000 GPH. I have them turned down about 50%, so combined I am probably in the 2000 GPH between the two of them. I typically run everything in parallel (except the AF-1).

Since Rappa is running two ClearSea's If he is maxing out the 960 GPH flow rate, he would be getting over 1900 GPH, so it wouldn't be an issue for him either.

 

[MyAquarium]

Sorry if I hijacked your post. I’m new and was over zealous to chime in. I am running the AF-RS170 but can never get replacement filters. It also takes a filter roller that’s 3.2 as opposed to 4 inches wide for the ClariSea. Seems like a lot more surface area to remove debris. I also only need 450 GPH on the return. I wonder if the Clarissa would fit in a RedSea reefer 170 sump. Does the Clarissa work well for you? Is it easy to change the rollers?

 

[wrgoff]

Sorry if I hijacked your post. I’m new and was over zealous to chime in. I am running the AF-RS170 but can never get replacement filters. It also takes a filter roller that’s 3.2 as opposed to 4 inches wide for the ClariSea. Seems like a lot more surface area to remove debris. I also only need 450 GPH on the return. I wonder if the Clarissa would fit in a RedSea reefer 170 sump. Does the Clarissa work well for you? Is it easy to change the rollers?

All Good. I have the AF-1 filter mat. I really like it. You know you can run the ReefMat 250 filter roller. It also is 3.2 inches wide. My AF-1 will also accept ClariSea SK-5000XL roll. Just look for a filter roller with roughly the same width.

 

[MyAquarium]

All Good. I have the AF-1 filter mat. I really like it. You know you can run the ReefMat 250 filter roller. It also is 3.2 inches wide. My AF-1 will also accept ClariSea SK-5000XL roll. Just look for a filter roller with roughly the same width.

Awesome thanks! I was concerned that that my current replacement filter was 3.5” and the water would find its way around the gap between the 3.2” delta. .3 inches or really .15” per side gap is prob not an issue. I’m def going for it based on your reco! Ordering today.