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The best and safest treatment if it is ich is CP(Chloroquine Phosphate).
How about some closeup pics of this little guy to help with the ID.
Cupramine is a bit harsh. If you have to use copper, you might want to switch to Coppersafe. If he continues to eat, in the .3 of Cupramine, you can try to up it to .5 slowly and see how he does. Make sure you are using the right test kit for cupramine (salifert) which is more accurate for low levels.
Most natural remedies are ineffective for parasites IMO.
I can assure you ginger won't do anything to help you. I've treated dozens of angels in cupramine and it seems to work well with them if increased slowly.
They need to be at the full therapeutic dose for 30 days. Good luck and beautiful fish!
I cannot tell from the pics if he has lesions. As long as he is eating, get cupramine to .5 so that you are at therapeutic level. If he is not eating, remove the cupramine and determine next step depending on his lesions or need for treatment.
Ich is common and can fall off the fish, only to return in a few days to weeks even worse than before.
Read up in fish disease forum for information on the parasite and its life cycle.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-disease-index.247600/
I used coppersafe on my flame angel with no issues at all.Thank you for the help hopefully we get it cured so we can enjoy this gorgeous fish!
I used coppersafe on my flame angel with no issues at all.
I don't see a Seachem ammonia alert badge on your QT, are you using one?
Fantastic! And I'm guessing you know that they are best read by shining a flashlight at the back side of the badge, right?Yes it is on the side wall that is more visible the the more used side of the room. Thank you for noticing and mentioning it!
Fantastic! And I'm guessing you know that they are best read by shining a flashlight at the back side of the badge, right?
You really are off to a good start with this fish. Well other than the sales price! I thought fish were expensive in the US, but we have nothing on you Canadians!
I'm pretty convinced that just about every fish you can buy comes with an assorted amount of parasites like ich. Some just have less stress and are fed higher quality foods so they are better able to fight the parasites off and don't show the symptoms.
Nope, just shine the light in through the water. You might not need to if you have a very bright light on your tank. Many people don't use lights on their QT's or just use very cheap lights since bright lights can stress new fish. The coloration on the badges needs to be backlit for it to show properly.I was not aware of the flashlight to view the badge? Do I take the badge out? Or get a waterproof flashlight? Why would they do that, seems very strange to me.... lol.
Nope, just shine the light in through the water. You might not need to if you have a very bright light on your tank. Many people don't use lights on their QT's or just use very cheap lights since bright lights can stress new fish. The coloration on the badges needs to be backlit for it to show properly.
Just like most things in this hobby, everyone tends to have a different opinion.Cool I will do that! Thanks for the heads up! Should I be doing frequent water changes in the QT? Or only when parameters require?
Just like most things in this hobby, everyone tends to have a different opinion.
I like stability so I try to minimize the number of water changes I do. I only do a water change if I get above 0.25ppm ammonia or over 100ppm nitrate. Or if I have cloudy water or some other odd event that would dictate a water change.
If you decide to do them regularly, that is fine and many people do it that way. Just make sure you match the copper level of your new water to your QT prior to doing the change.
.....mmmm stir fry! Theres an idea! You're sure going to .5 with the cupramine will be safe for this fish? I don't mean to seem ignorant I've seen so much info you have shared with others on here and I believe u, just nervous.