Fish Keep Dying

Rifken

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This story begins with a 65 gallon tank was switched from freshwater to saltwater in Jan 2022. I saw a Snowflake Moray while at the fish store and I couldn’t get it out of my head. The tank was setup with a Lee’s premium under gravel filter and two Marineland powerheads. Crushed coral was used as a substrate. I also had a Penn Plex Cascade 700 canister filter.

65 Gallon Predator.jpg

Frosty is under the rock on the right. He was a small guy then. The local fish guy calls that Lace rock but that name does not come up on Google. It's a brownish rock with an irregular surface

This tank was home to the Snowflake eel and a Clown trigger. Everything was good as best I remember but we wanted more fish so a plan was enacted to move everything from that tank into a 125 gallon.

That happened Sep 2022. We bought Lee’s premium under gravel filter for the 125 and more crushed coral for the substrate. We also bought three Marineland 1200 powerheads for the larger tank. We also move the Penn Plex 700 over as well.

I knew we were short for décor because we were going from a three foot tank to a six foot tank so we traveled to the Valley of Fire and picked out some rock from there. I did the suggested tests on the rock and it passed so I cleaned the rocks and soaked them for a week prior to the switch and changed the water daily.

The switch took about two hours to complete and nothing was allowed to dry out. Arnold the Clown trigger and Frosty the Snowflake eel seemed happy.

Predator 125 Volcanic Frosty and Arnold.jpg

Arnold and Frost with the volcanic rock

About a month later we decided to add another fish and bought a medium sized Undulated trigger. Everybody got along and life was good for a few months. Then I noticed the Undulated didn’t come out to eat one evening and found him dead the next morning.

This came a quite a shock as everything seemed to be going well. I was getting algae growth, some green, some red and a little purple. The fish store guy said that is a sign that the tank is maturing nicely. I tested the water and the nitrate was mid-range and when I showed that to the fish store guy he said you have to expect that because in a predator tank has a lot of waste. He said that I need to watch my ammonia and nitrite, but not nitrate so much

We waited while monitoring the tank and the test results always showed the same: zero ammonia and nitrite and mid-range nitrate. The Clown trigger and Snowflake were doing well so we added a Niger that had just come in. He lasted less than a week before he died.

During all this time the algae had continued to grow, the fish were eating and all seemed good so it was thought the Niger died from stress. Still, we waited to monitor the water before adding another fish. After a few weeks of testing with the water tests coming out just like before we decided to add another fish.

This time we let the fish stay at the store for a week before we brought him home. Everything seemed nice and I was getting a nice red coating of algae over all my rocks. Everybody was eating and getting along great for a month, maybe a little more. The one night I noticed the Blue Line trigger was not coming out of his cave to eat. I coaxed him out and he was bumping into the décor as he swam so I called the fish store guy and the decision was made to take the fish to him while we figured out what was going on.

I tested the water and again no ammonia or nitrite but the nitrate was at the highest reading. This is when I found out that the red algae was actually Cyano bacteria not algae at all. Also when we were going over the tank, I told the fish guy that it seems to me the tank had never really fully cycled. I never saw ammonia rise and fall, never saw the nitrite rise and fall. I just saw the nitrate seemly stuck at the same level. So we started thinking about what could cause this and he recommended that I change the rock. He said that while it passed the normal tests, he felt it was causing something akin to a buffer, preventing the tank from a complete cycle. He also thought that I was doing too much maintenance to the tank with 15 to 20 percent water changes every three to four weeks and vacuuming roughly 60 percent of the coral bed.

This happened in January 2023. I pulled out all the rock and did a 70 percent water change as recommended by the fish store guy. I put the rock that was in the 65 gallon and was able to buy a little more (all he had) from fish store guy. I took out all the decorations and hosed the Cyano slime off of them. I also added a Fluval UV light. We let the tank run for a week before deciding to add fish back in.

Predator 125 Redo.jpg

Initial "redo" setup with the decor that was in the 65

The Clown trigger had passed away the day after I rushed him to the store which surprised me because he seemed ok. The Blue Line seemed to have gone blind and would not eat and we lost him 5 days later. The only inhabitant that was still alive was the Snowflake eel. Since he was the catalyst for beginning saltwater again I did not want to willy-nilly toss him back in.

Luckily I had two Damsels (Blue Velvet and Two Stripe) that were misbehaving in my other tank so I moved them in. They were doing their thing for a few weeks while I was testing the water. I didn’t see the ammonia but I did see the nitrite com up and go down. Then the nitrate came up to hovering around 50/100 and we put the Snowflake back in. We also decided to let the fish store guy take over the maintenance at this point.

Everything was great and the Snowflake started eating much better over the next month or so. The damsels were doing great so this Saturday we added a 2-2.5 inch Valentini puffer that had been at the fish store for a month. The damsels were charging Val and flicking their tails at him Saturday afternoon but had settled down by evening time. The eel didn’t give a hoot about him.

Val seemed to be doing great and was eating, swimming around and what-not. He ate last night and was acting normal. I found him dead under some coral this morning. I tested the water and again, no ammonia, no nitrite and nitrate in the 50/100 range.

Predator 125 Apr23.jpg

Taken at lunch today. Please excuse the poor quality

I need to figure out what is going on. My fish store guy hasn’t been able to figure it out. I’m open to suggestions. I’ve already paid for a Niger trigger when I bought the Valentini but I did not take him home yet because he had just come in. I need the tank to be safe for him.

Any ideas?

Thanks for sticking thru the read,
-Bob
 
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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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when all disease preps have been skipped and there's repeat losses, start with the disease forum stickies for sure. it's your most likely issue: not a parameter you can measure but disease based on your details. it takes a few days reading the stickies and threads to learn the disease control, fallow and quarantine, can't really type it all out here it's self-directed study in the other fish forum here
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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nitrite cannot harm anything in a marine tank, it's not like freshwater where it's harmful, rule out nitrite in all cases. rule in skipping disease preps right off the bat, eliminate that risk by instating fallow and qt, then if those new rounds die/continue on down the assessment line. start with disease preps absolute first go.
 

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If your fish guy is telling you nitrite is important to test on a cycled tank, he is not up to snuff with current practices or knowledge.
 

Cell

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Do you utilize any sort of quarantine procedure before adding new fish?

I can't tell if those are rock structures or fake structures, but they don't look like your typical reef rock we use, natural or man made.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Using non reef rock is an added risk but you w have to icp test to have a small % chance at seeing if that's the cause

Even with cycling i would never use terrestrial rocks with reef fish
 

j.falk

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Old school style with undergravel filters and crushed coral. @Paul B might have some advice to help you out.
 
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Fish guy does not rely on tests. He says he can tell if the tank is healthy by watching the fish and the smell of the water. He was just there Thursday (the 13th) for monthly maintenance and said the tank is great and that it was ok to add more fish. Then he told me that he just got in a Clown trigger a White Tip trigger and a Redtoothed trigger and said they should all get along good in my tank.

The testing was just an attempt on my part to understand what is happening here.

I do not quarantine new arrivals. I do not have any type of a setup for that. I just read thru the disease sticky and all the symptoms. None of these fish had any signs of diseases I read about the stickies. They all appeared normal, healthy and were active until they weren't. Once they showed signs (if they did) they were mostly gone shortly after. The Valetini showed no signs at all. Last night he was eating and swimming around the tank. This morning when I found him nothing was "off". He looked completely normal, no spots on him, nothing hanging off, fins intact, no bruising etc, etc.

Not to be rude or sound like a know it all, but If it was a disease wouldn't there be some type of sign other than a dead fish and wouldn't it be slower paced?

The rocks are real and some are what the fish store was selling. The larger ones are from when we had aquariums back in the mid 80's to mid 90's. Those rocks and the coral moved around the country with us, from base to base.

-Bob
 

Cell

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Fish guy does not rely on tests. He says he can tell if the tank is healthy by watching the fish and the smell of the water. He was just there Thursday (the 13th) for monthly maintenance and said the tank is great and that it was ok to add more fish. Then he told me that he just got in a Clown trigger a White Tip trigger and a Redtoothed trigger and said they should all get along good in my tank.

The testing was just an attempt on my part to understand what is happening here.

I do not quarantine new arrivals. I do not have any type of a setup for that. I just read thru the disease sticky and all the symptoms. None of these fish had any signs of diseases I read about the stickies. They all appeared normal, healthy and were active until they weren't. Once they showed signs (if they did) they were mostly gone shortly after. The Valetini showed no signs at all. Last night he was eating and swimming around the tank. This morning when I found him nothing was "off". He looked completely normal, no spots on him, nothing hanging off, fins intact, no bruising etc, etc.

Not to be rude or sound like a know it all, but If it was a disease wouldn't there be some type of sign other than a dead fish and wouldn't it be slower paced?

The rocks are real and some are what the fish store was selling. The larger ones are from when we had aquariums back in the mid 80's to mid 90's. Those rocks and the coral moved around the country with us, from base to base.

-Bob
Fire your fish guy. Wow.
 

azob_88

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@Paul B runs the under gravel filter in reverse. So the first step would be to fix that. the idea is to push clean water under the filter plates to then flow up through gravel.

Next, are you using any other methods of filtration? Hang on back filter or skimmer?

What water are you using? Is it RO/DI? Are you using fresh water for top off water? Do not add more salt water to account for evaporation. Make sure your salinity/ specific gravity is within the correct range (specific gravity should be between 1.017 to 1.026 for a fish only tank).

What are you feeding? And how often?

Have you put in any bottled bacteria?

I'm not trying to be offensive with the questions, just want to get a better idea of what we're dealing with. I think this is my first post on here, but I tried to follow the methodology of @Paul B with my tank and have not had issues so far.
 
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Rifken

Rifken

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I have not heard of a reverse flow under gravel before. I'll have to look into that. Did I mention that we had the same type of set ups back in the mid 80s to mid 90s? We never had problems like this back then. The only difference is that the powerheads were smaller and the cannister filters were Magnum 330s :)

There is a Penn Plex 700 cannister filter also with coarse and fine filters in it.

My water is from a well. The water was pretty hard so we have a whole house RO system. The specific gravity is 1.025. I am not sure what fish guy is topping the water off with after maintenance. I do know he only takes out less than ten gallons of water which I thought was not much

I feed the Snowflake a variety of silversides, scallops, and shrimp two to three times a week. Just one type of food each feeding, He comes out of his spot when he is hungry. The damsels get half a cube of assorted frozen foods each day.

I did not put any kind of bottled bacteria in the tank.

Thanks for asking some questions to better understand and help,
-Bob
 

TokenReefer

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Ammonia > Nitrite > Nitrate
The nitrates will accumulate unless removed. Perhaps those fish are sensitive to the levels in your tank? Is the lfs doing a good job if the fish are dying? Idk. This is when testing is necessary imo
 
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I am kicking around the idea of buying 80 lbs of Caribsea south seas base rock to replace the rocks that are in the tank. Also considering base rock from ARK. It seems to be the same thing but you can pick sizes. It seems either of these rocks will need to be soaked in saltwater for two weeks before they go in the tank. Is that true?

Azob asked about bottled bacteria. Is that a way to jump start the road to live rock once you have proper rock?

I'm really not happy that the fish are still dying after turning it all over to a professional. I have been consulting him on everything I do or buy. That doesn't seem to be working out so that is why I am here.

-Bob
 

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This story begins with a 65 gallon tank was switched from freshwater to saltwater in Jan 2022. I saw a Snowflake Moray while at the fish store and I couldn’t get it out of my head. The tank was setup with a Lee’s premium under gravel filter and two Marineland powerheads. Crushed coral was used as a substrate. I also had a Penn Plex Cascade 700 canister filter.

65 Gallon Predator.jpg

Frosty is under the rock on the right. He was a small guy then. The local fish guy calls that Lace rock but that name does not come up on Google. It's a brownish rock with an irregular surface

This tank was home to the Snowflake eel and a Clown trigger. Everything was good as best I remember but we wanted more fish so a plan was enacted to move everything from that tank into a 125 gallon.

That happened Sep 2022. We bought Lee’s premium under gravel filter for the 125 and more crushed coral for the substrate. We also bought three Marineland 1200 powerheads for the larger tank. We also move the Penn Plex 700 over as well.

I knew we were short for décor because we were going from a three foot tank to a six foot tank so we traveled to the Valley of Fire and picked out some rock from there. I did the suggested tests on the rock and it passed so I cleaned the rocks and soaked them for a week prior to the switch and changed the water daily.

The switch took about two hours to complete and nothing was allowed to dry out. Arnold the Clown trigger and Frosty the Snowflake eel seemed happy.

Predator 125 Volcanic Frosty and Arnold.jpg

Arnold and Frost with the volcanic rock

About a month later we decided to add another fish and bought a medium sized Undulated trigger. Everybody got along and life was good for a few months. Then I noticed the Undulated didn’t come out to eat one evening and found him dead the next morning.

This came a quite a shock as everything seemed to be going well. I was getting algae growth, some green, some red and a little purple. The fish store guy said that is a sign that the tank is maturing nicely. I tested the water and the nitrate was mid-range and when I showed that to the fish store guy he said you have to expect that because in a predator tank has a lot of waste. He said that I need to watch my ammonia and nitrite, but not nitrate so much

We waited while monitoring the tank and the test results always showed the same: zero ammonia and nitrite and mid-range nitrate. The Clown trigger and Snowflake were doing well so we added a Niger that had just come in. He lasted less than a week before he died.

During all this time the algae had continued to grow, the fish were eating and all seemed good so it was thought the Niger died from stress. Still, we waited to monitor the water before adding another fish. After a few weeks of testing with the water tests coming out just like before we decided to add another fish.

This time we let the fish stay at the store for a week before we brought him home. Everything seemed nice and I was getting a nice red coating of algae over all my rocks. Everybody was eating and getting along great for a month, maybe a little more. The one night I noticed the Blue Line trigger was not coming out of his cave to eat. I coaxed him out and he was bumping into the décor as he swam so I called the fish store guy and the decision was made to take the fish to him while we figured out what was going on.

I tested the water and again no ammonia or nitrite but the nitrate was at the highest reading. This is when I found out that the red algae was actually Cyano bacteria not algae at all. Also when we were going over the tank, I told the fish guy that it seems to me the tank had never really fully cycled. I never saw ammonia rise and fall, never saw the nitrite rise and fall. I just saw the nitrate seemly stuck at the same level. So we started thinking about what could cause this and he recommended that I change the rock. He said that while it passed the normal tests, he felt it was causing something akin to a buffer, preventing the tank from a complete cycle. He also thought that I was doing too much maintenance to the tank with 15 to 20 percent water changes every three to four weeks and vacuuming roughly 60 percent of the coral bed.

This happened in January 2023. I pulled out all the rock and did a 70 percent water change as recommended by the fish store guy. I put the rock that was in the 65 gallon and was able to buy a little more (all he had) from fish store guy. I took out all the decorations and hosed the Cyano slime off of them. I also added a Fluval UV light. We let the tank run for a week before deciding to add fish back in.

Predator 125 Redo.jpg

Initial "redo" setup with the decor that was in the 65

The Clown trigger had passed away the day after I rushed him to the store which surprised me because he seemed ok. The Blue Line seemed to have gone blind and would not eat and we lost him 5 days later. The only inhabitant that was still alive was the Snowflake eel. Since he was the catalyst for beginning saltwater again I did not want to willy-nilly toss him back in.

Luckily I had two Damsels (Blue Velvet and Two Stripe) that were misbehaving in my other tank so I moved them in. They were doing their thing for a few weeks while I was testing the water. I didn’t see the ammonia but I did see the nitrite com up and go down. Then the nitrate came up to hovering around 50/100 and we put the Snowflake back in. We also decided to let the fish store guy take over the maintenance at this point.

Everything was great and the Snowflake started eating much better over the next month or so. The damsels were doing great so this Saturday we added a 2-2.5 inch Valentini puffer that had been at the fish store for a month. The damsels were charging Val and flicking their tails at him Saturday afternoon but had settled down by evening time. The eel didn’t give a hoot about him.

Val seemed to be doing great and was eating, swimming around and what-not. He ate last night and was acting normal. I found him dead under some coral this morning. I tested the water and again, no ammonia, no nitrite and nitrate in the 50/100 range.

Predator 125 Apr23.jpg

Taken at lunch today. Please excuse the poor quality

I need to figure out what is going on. My fish store guy hasn’t been able to figure it out. I’m open to suggestions. I’ve already paid for a Niger trigger when I bought the Valentini but I did not take him home yet because he had just come in. I need the tank to be safe for him.

Any ideas?

Thanks for sticking thru the read,
-Bob

This tank seems to be seriously lacking in biological filtration. Aka quality rock.

Since this is FOWLR, I would probably just buy dry and a big ol bottle of biospira.

Ocean rock would have a lot of die off if not under proper lighting but I am sure it is still beneficial though expensive.

I would not rule out disease either. Disease is a much larger issue now then it was years ago.

Eels are very resistant to ich and velvet. So if you got a live and healthy eel and fish dropping like flies.. I would be very suspicious of disease.
 
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Rifken

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I went ahead and ordered the Carib Seas South Seas Base Rock. 40 pounds of regular and 40 pounds of shelf. I am going to do some research on the biospira stuff today.

I mentioned earlier that the maintenance guy only takes out somewhere between 5 to 10 gallons when he vacuums the coral bed once a month. After reading the replies here it seems that I don't have the best filtration right now so maybe I should be changing more than that until I get some proper rocks in there to help.

What is the general consensus on water changes for a FOWLR tank? I've see some people do a small percentage every week, and some do large ones once a month. From what I've read (and watched) it seems to me the average seems to be 10 to 20 percent once a month. Does that sound correct?

-Bob
 

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I went ahead and ordered the Carib Seas South Seas Base Rock. 40 pounds of regular and 40 pounds of shelf. I am going to do some research on the biospira stuff today.

I mentioned earlier that the maintenance guy only takes out somewhere between 5 to 10 gallons when he vacuums the coral bed once a month. After reading the replies here it seems that I don't have the best filtration right now so maybe I should be changing more than that until I get some proper rocks in there to help.

What is the general consensus on water changes for a FOWLR tank? I've see some people do a small percentage every week, and some do large ones once a month. From what I've read (and watched) it seems to me the average seems to be 10 to 20 percent once a month. Does that sound correct?

-Bob
Hey Bob! I’ve never had a FOWLR before, but I would assume it follows roughly with what people do with reefs. And that’s 10% weekly water changes. Some do 20% bi-weekly. I think you’ll see quite a few different opinions.
 

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