First impression of the Aquatic Life T5 LED Hybrid light

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Roggio

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While possible to do what you mention, there are a few concerns. Both power cords on one side makes a larger set of wires running down the same side of the fixture. We wanted to keep it a little more symmetrical.

Allowing the dual lamps housing to be flipped would place the ballast channel toward the center of the fixture and a set of lamps toward the edge of the light, possible but not what we figure people would want.

The extrusion of the fixture only has a certain set of points that allow screws to be anchored to the plate. The end plates would have a lot more holes in it to make it more universal.

We are open to suggestions and will try to use them to improve the product.


So if I do the math there's six feet of cord coming out of the end of the light. It's 4-5" to get to the cord notch and then another 36" of light. So out of 60" I have 20" of cord left to make it to an outlet. My suggestion is if the cords need to come out of opposite ends there should be more than 20" of play.

"Allowing the dual lamps housing to be flipped would place the ballast channel toward the center of the fixture and a set of lamps toward the edge of the light, possible but not what we figure people would want." Why not flip them in the other direction?
 

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This is what happens when you take old t5 dual bulb fixtures sitting around and slap a strap on each end to tie it together and call it a new thing. I could immediately tell that these things are not built to any reasonable standard. They are basically a retrofit product and no BRS didn't point it out because they want to sell them. "Pre-Order Now Guys!" Imagine if they actually produced a brand new, one piece fixture that looked clean and had the cords all sorted people wouldn't have this issue.
 

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So if I do the math there's six feet of cord coming out of the end of the light. It's 4-5" to get to the cord notch and then another 36" of light. So out of 60" I have 20" of cord left to make it to an outlet. My suggestion is if the cords need to come out of opposite ends there should be more than 20" of play.

"Allowing the dual lamps housing to be flipped would place the ballast channel toward the center of the fixture and a set of lamps toward the edge of the light, possible but not what we figure people would want." Why not flip them in the other direction?
It is hard to fault them for 6' cords. While it isn't always great for the user, in many areas it is all that is allowed by codes. This requirement works together with the National Electric Codes requirement that walls have outlets no more than 12' apart in most residential areas. Unfortunately, it doesn't take into account that things with cords are not always right up against walls.
 

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So if I do the math there's six feet of cord coming out of the end of the light. It's 4-5" to get to the cord notch and then another 36" of light. So out of 60" I have 20" of cord left to make it to an outlet. My suggestion is if the cords need to come out of opposite ends there should be more than 20" of play.

"Allowing the dual lamps housing to be flipped would place the ballast channel toward the center of the fixture and a set of lamps toward the edge of the light, possible but not what we figure people would want." Why not flip them in the other direction?

Hi Roggio, we really did not think to have the 36" of cord down the middle for the fixture, we have looked into increasing the cord lengths to around 8' but that still does not sound like it would solve your situation. What length cord would you need?

If the existing fixture is flipped it would place the ballast channel toward the middle. Or

If we placed the power cord on the opposite side of the fixture it would work but then all the cords come out the one side and we figured it was better to balance the power cords.

 

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"Allowing the dual lamps housing to be flipped would place the ballast channel toward the center of the fixture and a set of lamps toward the edge of the light, possible but not what we figure people would want." Why not flip them in the other direction?
Evolution in progress. I hear ya, a mirror image or Right & left hand fixture. They would have to make a universal extrusion with the tee slots on both sides of the fixture, and end plates.
Mine arrived yesterday so another DIY in the making, I have already decided to put a switch box for 2/4 bulb operation 1 front/back or all and have 1 cord powering. I want to supplement with t5's not LED's
 
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FUKYOI4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A33IWA3Q1K9YUP&psc=1
It is hard to fault them for 6' cords. While it isn't always great for the user, in many areas it is all that is allowed by codes. This requirement works together with the National Electric Codes requirement that walls have outlets no more than 12' apart in most residential areas. Unfortunately, it doesn't take into account that things with cords are not always right up against walls.

Please post the requirement you're referencing. Everything else I have bought for my tank has come with a much longer cord. Maybe not a fair compairison but my Radions have over 10' past the ballasts. The chinese lights I bought for my refugium have an 8' cord and they're cheapos. Did all these other products get around this code you're talking about?


Hi Roggio, we really did not think to have the 36" of cord down the middle for the fixture, we have looked into increasing the cord lengths to around 8' but that still does not sound like it would solve your situation. What length cord would you need?

If the existing fixture is flipped it would place the ballast channel toward the middle. Or

If we placed the power cord on the opposite side of the fixture it would work but then all the cords come out the one side and we figured it was better to balance the power cords.


I understand where you're coming from and appreciate your duediligence in explaining this. I think you could easily make a bracket thats reversible in the future for this option.

The way I plan on fixing this is buying a 4' extension cord and attaching it to the shorter cord. I'll probably wrap it in electrical tape for moisture and to make sure they do not separate
 

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If we placed the power cord on the opposite side of the fixture it would work but then all the cords come out the one side and we figured it was better to balance the power cords.

[/QUOTE]


I have to say the fixture is very well balanced .. and very easy to get it suspended over a tank .. can’t wait to get mine up and running..

I am just thinking of extending the power cords to , have the ability to run them through my wall and down into the main power .. I was thinking of cutting the plug and adding extensions, by soldering on the extensions on to the existing power cords . That my only DIY project I am considering to the light .
 

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Can this unit be mounted with arms instead of hanging kit?
 

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Please post the requirement you're referencing. Everything else I have bought for my tank has come with a much longer cord. Maybe not a fair compairison but my Radions have over 10' past the ballasts. The chinese lights I bought for my refugium have an 8' cord and they're cheapos. Did all these other products get around this code you're talking about?
The requirements are based on the UL listings, CE Mark, or CSA rating they may want to get. It is very unusual for high quality electrical equipment to have AC power cords longer than 6 feet. They desire to get these certifications. It isn't illegal to sell a device with a longer cord and getting these certifications isn't a requirement. Where it can come in to play is that some public buildings are required to only use electrical devices with UL listings.

You Radions do have a UL listing which is why the extra cord length is past the ballasts. The 6' standard only applies from the wall to the ballast/power supply. The Chinese lights are likely not UL listed so an 8' cord length isn't a big deal for them.

Some UL listed devices, such as vacuum cleaners, are allowed to have and are tested with much longer cords. It is all based on how the standards are written for the particular device.
 

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http://www.ecmag.com/section/your-business/article-210-branch-circuits-4

6ft cord lengths on luminaires is very common, and in this case clearly printed in the manual on their website and if you bought from BRS on their site also. Not to nit pick but I find it hard to complain about something that was clearly disclosed prior to purchase.

The fixture is exactly what I expected given the price point and reading the manual. I like many will need a longer cord length since I will have it pendant mounted to the ceiling 12ft up. So stepping up the gauge extension cord will be a must so the cord doesn't overheat. I may just rewire the fixture with 12/10 gauge wire and do it in one straight shot per fixture. I'll need to look at the ratings on the ballast to ensure the proper gauge and length.

As a side note for those extending the power. Be sure to use a proper gauge extension cord for your length or you can risk melting the cord and starting a fire. <-- That's also in the manual :)
 
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http://www.ecmag.com/section/your-business/article-210-branch-circuits-4

6ft cord lengths on luminaires is very common, and in this case clearly printed in the manual on their website and if you bought from BRS on their site also. Not to nit pick but I find it hard to complain about something that was clearly disclosed prior to purchase.

The fixture is exactly what I expected given the price point and reading the manual. I like many will need a longer cord length since I will have it pendant mounted to the ceiling 12ft up. So stepping up the gauge extension cord will be a must so the cord doesn't overheat. I may just rewire the fixture with 12/10 gauge wire and do it in one straight shot per fixture. I'll need to look at the ratings on the ballast to ensure the proper gauge and length.

As a side note for those extending the power. Be sure to use a proper gauge extension cord for your length or you can risk melting the cord and starting a fire. <-- That's also in the manual :)

Not to nit pick but my complaint was cords coming out of both sides of the fixture.
 

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Not to nit pick but my complaint was cords coming out of both sides of the fixture.

I can understand your angst. The manual has been online and available prior to ordering and step 1 does show the power cord arraignment. Manufacturer should have made that more pronounced I guess.
 

XNavyDiver

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Like @Fudsey and @scuzy (i'm pretty sure you guys are named in a nursery rhyme) said you could modify it but who wants to drill into something new and metal that's going to sit over their saltwater tank. You could take steps to resist corrosion but this appears to be anodized. By the way @XNavyDiver I'm a retired AW Rescue Swimmer
I was first assigned to USS Grasp ARS-51 ported in Little Creek NAB as a new 2nd Class Deep Sea Diver. Then to MUDSU 2 as a first class diver. From 1985-1991.
 

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I don't really understand the "symmetry" aspect of wanting a power cord on each side of the fixture. I think if you poll 100 people if they want cords coming from opposite ends or out of the same side 90+ are going to say having them on the same side is a much better choice.

I can't even think of a scenario where its better to have a cable coming out of each side.
 

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I have to say the fixture is very well balanced .. and very easy to get it suspended over a tank .. can’t wait to get mine up and running..

I am just thinking of extending the power cords to , have the ability to run them through my wall and down into the main power .. I was thinking of cutting the plug and adding extensions, by soldering on the extensions on to the existing power cords . That my only DIY project I am considering to the light .
Pretty easy to do with a sealed IP68 rated connector, similar to what some of the power heads use (gyres, jebao's, etc). Probably something they should think about for a revision 1 release, could always sell extension plug cables as well so people can avoid having to cut and DIY. Though I suppose that would possibly invalidate some certifications..
 

Tim P

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preordered, for a peninsula tank. and now i'm following here so I get some ideas on how to make this work. Hope this is good quality for $300
 

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I think the standard is to provide a minimum of 6' and copper is costly for manufacturers, and if they provide a longer cable they may have to step up the gage and again MO $$$$, countertop kitchen appliances limit the length
of a cord.

BTW, ask 10 electricians and you will get 11 different answers
 

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Pretty easy to do with a sealed IP68 rated connector, similar to what some of the power heads use (gyres, jebao's, etc). Probably something they should think about for a revision 1 release, could always sell extension plug cables as well so people can avoid having to cut and DIY. Though I suppose that would possibly invalidate some certifications..

I'm thinking of modifying mine with IEC connectors which are common for computers, amplifiers, and other high amp power applications.

An IEC inlet would look real clean on the end of each fixture with a right angle plug. Extensions are readily available from 12awg to 18awg in many lengths.
 

DSC reef

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This is what happens when you take old t5 dual bulb fixtures sitting around and slap a strap on each end to tie it together and call it a new thing. I could immediately tell that these things are not built to any reasonable standard. They are basically a retrofit product and no BRS didn't point it out because they want to sell them. "Pre-Order Now Guys!" Imagine if they actually produced a brand new, one piece fixture that looked clean and had the cords all sorted people wouldn't have this issue.
Might not be in everyone's price range so why not start somewhere. I believe this is a step in the right direction for a lot of reefers. Somehow I think it's more of a BRS thing with you. This fixture makes it easier for people to run there lights together without having to diy. If your worried about quality to perfection and don't have a limited budget then one could buy an ATI sunpower instead of an Amazon T5 fixture right?
 

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My entire tank is over 72 inches long and is over 2 feet front to back and deep.

After years of research, careful study, many consultations, experimentation and 6 years of mediating with monks i discovered a solution to the problem many of you seek.
7ccf32169a12994b40ba4a2bbc972d9b.jpg
 
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