First ever saltwater build Biocube 32

[WallyB]

Yeah I might slow down a bit. I'm going to concentrate on what I need for that initial cycling process. Got some Dr Tim's One and Only. Just discovered Hannah Checkers. Might return that API testing kit. Not sure if I'm overthinking it but I'm not sure whether I should put the stand in front of my power outlet, which I'm planning on swapping out for a gfci. What if I need to work on that outlet for whatever reason? I'm even wondering if I should put the stand on top of a mat? I have engineered wood floors which isn't completely water proof.

First thing, it's good you are thinking GFCI for your safety and others.

One thing I would consider putting a tiny bit of your spending toward is a Ground Probe.

Here is why. I made this video after almost getting a good ZAP from my tank.




I can also tell you this, that GFCI outlets don't last forever. I've had 3 over last 10 years go dead and wouldn't reset anymore, so they had to be replaced. If you put your stand in front of the GFCI it will be a challenge if not impossible to replace and maybe even a bit tricky to push that Fault Reset button after a False/Real trip.

All the best. Sounds like you are a forward thinker, and that's a good skill to have in this hobby.
Aticipate the unexpected and design your setup to handle mishaps, accidents and equipment failures (which will happen over time), without damage to your setup, yourself and your residence.

Personally I like Salifert Test kits. Been around for years. Reliable and less expensive.
The only two hanna testers I think are worth buying are the Alk and Phosphate.

 

[subzero]

I have a biocube 32 started late feb 2021, doing very well.

stock return, 2 koralia 525, biocube skimmer and cheato in the back middle with a growing LED light ($25 eBay).

advice
- dont need random flow, it’s very expensive. Just have good turnover
- questionable skimmer benefit, but helps with aeration and it does pull out some gunk
- skip the UV sterilizer
- def skip the ATO
- skip fish catcher to prevent jumping (none of mine ever jumped in back
- edit: definitely skip the chamber thing (forgot the company) they made to replace the OEM separator. The the famous one everyone buys for $50 or so. It’s a gimmick and easy moneymaker for them and doesn’t do anything differently

i have heavy stocked tank and feed heavy: 1 snowflake eel, 3 green chromis, 2 clowns, 1 lunar wrasse, 3 different damsels (yellow, black/blue, blue with yellow tail. I also have lots of LR and a massive cheato ball

the back chambers:
1st: heater and skimmer
2nd: I cut the legs off the bottom end of the original separator to make a large chamber for chaeto. I’ve kept and haven’t replaced the top OEM floss. I got rid of the charcoal bag it came with after a month.
3rd: return.

top off every 1 or 2 weeks based on how busy I am, feed heavy daily. I leave the feeding door open to help the temps, and my home is 24/7 at 76 degrees. The tank temps steady at 82.
the only things I’m considering adding is 2 small fans to place in the back openings for temp but I haven’t yet.

 

[wrz0170]

Yeah I might slow down a bit. I'm going to concentrate on what I need for that initial cycling process. Got some Dr Tim's One and Only. Just discovered Hannah Checkers. Might return that API testing kit. Not sure if I'm overthinking it but I'm not sure whether I should put the stand in front of my power outlet, which I'm planning on swapping out for a gfci. What if I need to work on that outlet for whatever reason? I'm even wondering if I should put the stand on top of a mat? I have engineered wood floors which isn't completely water proof.

Hey there. Same boat as you as we start putting together our shopping list for our own BC32. We have Brazilian cherry hardwood floor. Honestly, not that concerned. We have a small dog that runs around like a lunatic and does more to them than saltwater could. I think if a small spill and clean it up right away, your good. Especially on engineered floors.

I plan on putting my tank right in front of the outlet with a little space between wall and tank. I‘m also going to use one of these plug in GFCI adapters. It seems well reviewed and a couple reviewers use it for a tank. Something goes wrong, I can easily replace it.

Amazon product

 

[QuinnLee512]

I have a biocube 32 started late feb 2021, doing very well.

stock return, 2 koralia 525, biocube skimmer and cheato in the back middle with a growing LED light ($25 eBay).

advice
- dont need random flow, it’s very expensive. Just have good turnover
- questionable skimmer benefit, but helps with aeration and it does pull out some gunk
- skip the UV sterilizer
- def skip the ATO
- skip fish catcher to prevent jumping (none of mine ever jumped in back
- edit: definitely skip the chamber thing (forgot the company) they made to replace the OEM separator. The the famous one everyone buys for $50 or so. It’s a gimmick and easy moneymaker for them and doesn’t do anything differently

i have heavy stocked tank and feed heavy: 1 snowflake eel, 3 green chromis, 2 clowns, 1 lunar wrasse, 3 different damsels (yellow, black/blue, blue with yellow tail. I also have lots of LR and a massive cheato ball

the back chambers:
1st: heater and skimmer
2nd: I cut the legs off the bottom end of the original separator to make a large chamber for chaeto. I’ve kept and haven’t replaced the top OEM floss. I got rid of the charcoal bag it came with after a month.
3rd: return.

top off every 1 or 2 weeks based on how busy I am, feed heavy daily. I leave the feeding door open to help the temps, and my home is 24/7 at 76 degrees. The tank temps steady at 82.
the only things I’m considering adding is 2 small fans to place in the back openings for temp but I haven’t yet.

Thank you for this. My house is also usually around 76 or so during the day. I wife likes to lower the temp to 72 at night. I don't foresee evaporation being a huge issue but I'm aiming to be the laziest reef keeper on this board so I went ahead and got the ATO.

Good info on what you have in the tank. I haven't yet done the research on how many fish, corals, etc.. that I can have in the tank. How far back to you have the rocks? Does it touch the glass or is there some space?

 

[QuinnLee512]

Hey there. Same boat as you as we start putting together our shopping list for our own BC32. We have Brazilian cherry hardwood floor. Honestly, not that concerned. We have a small dog that runs around like a lunatic and does more to them than saltwater could. I think if a small spill and clean it up right away, your good. Especially on engineered floors.

I plan on putting my tank right in front of the outlet with a little space between wall and tank. I‘m also going to use one of these plug in GFCI adapters. It seems well reviewed and a couple reviewers use it for a tank. Something goes wrong, I can easily replace it.

Amazon product

I'm just planning for the worst. I had thought about putting those furniture movers under the stand so that I could move it if required but I'm leaning towards putting it on top of an exercise mat. Cut the mat so that it extends out a bit on all sides. I'm being paranoid I'm sure but won't hurt.

I have decided not to cover up the outlet. Just never know when/if I'll have to work on it.

 

[QuinnLee512]

I have a biocube 32 started late feb 2021, doing very well.

stock return, 2 koralia 525, biocube skimmer and cheato in the back middle with a growing LED light ($25 eBay).

advice
- dont need random flow, it’s very expensive. Just have good turnover
- questionable skimmer benefit, but helps with aeration and it does pull out some gunk
- skip the UV sterilizer
- def skip the ATO
- skip fish catcher to prevent jumping (none of mine ever jumped in back
- edit: definitely skip the chamber thing (forgot the company) they made to replace the OEM separator. The the famous one everyone buys for $50 or so. It’s a gimmick and easy moneymaker for them and doesn’t do anything differently

i have heavy stocked tank and feed heavy: 1 snowflake eel, 3 green chromis, 2 clowns, 1 lunar wrasse, 3 different damsels (yellow, black/blue, blue with yellow tail. I also have lots of LR and a massive cheato ball

the back chambers:
1st: heater and skimmer
2nd: I cut the legs off the bottom end of the original separator to make a large chamber for chaeto. I’ve kept and haven’t replaced the top OEM floss. I got rid of the charcoal bag it came with after a month.
3rd: return.

top off every 1 or 2 weeks based on how busy I am, feed heavy daily. I leave the feeding door open to help the temps, and my home is 24/7 at 76 degrees. The tank temps steady at 82.
the only things I’m considering adding is 2 small fans to place in the back openings for temp but I haven’t yet.

Just realized that you did all this in only 4 months. I've heard that the cycling process alone can take 4 months. Any tips for having a successful and quick cycling?

 

[QuinnLee512]

First thing, it's good you are thinking GFCI for your safety and others.

One thing I would consider putting a tiny bit of your spending toward is a Ground Probe.

Here is why. I made this video after almost getting a good ZAP from my tank.




I can also tell you this, that GFCI outlets don't last forever. I've had 3 over last 10 years go dead and wouldn't reset anymore, so they had to be replaced. If you put your stand in front of the GFCI it will be a challenge if not impossible to replace and maybe even a bit tricky to push that Fault Reset button after a False/Real trip.

All the best. Sounds like you are a forward thinker, and that's a good skill to have in this hobby.
Aticipate the unexpected and design your setup to handle mishaps, accidents and equipment failures (which will happen over time), without damage to your setup, yourself and your residence.

Personally I like Salifert Test kits. Been around for years. Reliable and less expensive.
The only two hanna testers I think are worth buying are the Alk and Phosphate.

Thank you. I will look into the grounding probe. I will probably only get the 2 Hannas that most people say are worth it. I am leaning towards Red Sea for ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite.

 

[saltyfins]

Just realized that you did all this in only 4 months. I've heard that the cycling process alone can take 4 months. Any tips for having a successful and quick cycling?

I used Fritz Turbo 900 in 2 days, 0 amonia, 0 nitrites, and 3 months later corals are growing well. maybe I just got lucky, idk? gone through the ugly stages, but when I set mine up, I had 22# of live coralline covered rock, and new sand. used media from 125 to help jump start it. Tested just this morning, and everything had great numbers still.

 

[Oldsman]

# subzero Thats fantastic advice!!! What a beautiful tank . See you totally skipped a carbon bag in chamber 2 , just have floss to catch any large detritus

 

[QuinnLee512]

It's been slow going. Should have the RODI producing water today. I took out some sand since taking this picture.

 

[wrz0170]

Nice! Keep posting progress and pics! You’re one step ahead of me. My BC32 is still bare butt naked. Lol.

 

[QuinnLee512]

Got the RODI up and running. I have moisture sensors below the RODI and next to the brute. The moisture sensors will shut off the water into the house if tripped.

 

[QuinnLee512]

Will be getting the 2nd brute and installing an auto shut-off valve, float switch, and tds monitor this weekend. Will also be installing a camera and smart switch to control the pump that will move the water between the brutes.

 

[Joe Vance]

Yeah I might slow down a bit. I'm going to concentrate on what I need for that initial cycling process. Got some Dr Tim's One and Only. Just discovered Hannah Checkers. Might return that API testing kit. Not sure if I'm overthinking it but I'm not sure whether I should put the stand in front of my power outlet, which I'm planning on swapping out for a gfci. What if I need to work on that outlet for whatever reason? I'm even wondering if I should put the stand on top of a mat? I have engineered wood floors which isn't completely water proof.

I have the same setup as you only FW and it sits in a corner (catty corner) with the outlet on the left side wall and easily accessible. All devices plug into a strip hidden inside the stand. Trust me you do not want to have to fool around behind the tank if you need to access the wall socket and moving the aquarium would be a real PIA.

 

[QuinnLee512]

I have the same setup as you only FW and it sits in a corner (catty corner) with the outlet on the left side wall and easily accessible. All devices plug into a strip hidden inside the stand. Trust me you do not want to have to fool around behind the tank if you need to access the wall socket and moving the aquarium would be a real PIA.

Yeah I didn't put it in front of my outlet. I underestimated how much equipment I would have. Already need another powerstrip. I haven't even set up my UV, doser, or PH monitor yet.

 

[QuinnLee512]

Added a DI canister and TDS monitor. Making salt water isn't as hard as I had originally thought.

 

[QuinnLee512]

I'm on day 14 of a fishless cycle using Dr Tim's. My ammonia went to zero at about day 7 but my nitrite has been at 5ppm for the past week. My understanding is that I need to wait it out. I'm debating if I should do a water change this weekend.

 

[wrz0170]

I'm on day 14 of a fishless cycle using Dr Tim's. My ammonia went to zero at about day 7 but my nitrite has been at 5ppm for the past week. My understanding is that I need to wait it out. I'm debating if I should do a water change this weekend.

I just started mine this past week. Day 5 as of this writing. Did you dose the 4 drops per gallon? What was your first reading?

Your tank is looking good!

 

[QuinnLee512]

I just started mine this past week. Day 5 as of this writing. Did you dose the 4 drops per gallon? What was your first reading?

Your tank is looking good!

I had and still have difficulty figuring out how much water I actually have. There's 40lbs of dry rock in my tank. I just guessed that I had 20 gal of water so dosed 80 drops. My ammonia was super high so I did a couple of water changes. I wasn't even keeping track. I just kept on doing water changes until the ammonia dropped to about 2ppm. If you notice in my pic, I have the temp set to 84 degrees. My salinity is also lower than normal. These are a couple of tricks when using Dr Tim's.

 

[gbroadbridge]

Thank you. I will look into the grounding probe. I will probably only get the 2 Hannas that most people say are worth it. I am leaning towards Red Sea for ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite.

Don't waste money on Ammonia or Nitrite Tests.

For startup, just get a Seachem Ammonia Alert as that shows free ammonia which is all you need. You can toss it after a few months.

Nitrite is irrelevant in a marine system.