Finally a Heater that Keeps Temps Stable

[PeterC99]

Something about Neptune put something out saying switching on and off harms their plugs? If the Helio is controlling it, that shouldn’t matter correct?

Correct - I leave the heater outlet on. Only tell it to turn off if the temp goes about 82 degrees.

Let the Helio manage the on/off of the heater.

Believe all Apex users should leave the heater outlet on. Only turn off the outlet if the temps go above a certain level.

 

[DHill6]

Correct - I leave the heater outlet on. Only tell it to turn off if the temp goes about 82 degrees.

Let the Helio manage the on/off of the heater.

Believe all Apex users should leave the heater outlet on. Only turn off the outlet if the temps go above a certain level.

That’s my thinking also. IM wants it plugged into a bar, not Apex. I’m going to s

 

[mindme]

You beat me to it. I’m not sure how Inkbird became the go to controller. The Bayite is about the same price for the two channel 15A model.

.1° resolution vs 1° On the InkBird and the Bayite is frankly better quality. The only thing that could be better is the temp probe, it’s stainless and will rust/leak after while. That’s easily “fixed” y either covering it in silicone or spending a few dollars to by a better probe.

My experience over the last year has been the Bayite holds calibration better than Inkbird as well. I check the calibration of both my Apex and Bayite once a week using a Hanna temp check. I frequently have to calibrate my Apex but seldom have to calibrate the Bayite, maybe once every six weeks or so I adjust the Bayite.

With the 15A model I run two 100W BRS heaters on the heater channel and two fans on the chiller channel with no problem. I never have the heater and fans fighting one another.

I’ll never own another Inkbird.

Does the Bayite have heating and cooling settings?

I have a 1 degree inkbird on my 180g. I originally bought it for my 25g cube, which needed both heat and cool control, especially in the summer. When I built my 180g, I just took the inkbird from there.

So far I haven't needed cooling on my 180g, but it's been up since October, so it's only needed heat so far. I think with such a large water volume(around 200 counting sump) it might not need both parts, but I'd like to have the option.

 

[Innovative Marine]

Hi everyone,
I wanted to update you on the progress for the request for longer cables for the heating elements. I've got word back from R&D that they have decided to make the cables for the elements and sensor longer for a total length of 8 feet.

The next production line of heaters will incorporate the longer lengths and we should have them here sometime in May. We will create a list for those that need upgrading as time gets closer so we can send out the longer cables free of charge. In the meantime I have attached a drawing and cable lengths for the next batch of heating systems.

Thank you so much for your feedback and suggestions,

Best Regards, IM team

 

[Tamberav]

And now that I looked up the price of these heaters, I definitely am curious about how long they last. $200 for a 10-25 gallon system heater (and goes up) seems a bit of a stretch to be honest. The reality also being the ocean is not a steady temp, so struggling to see how this is worth it unless they last for 20 years or more....

The heating elements are replaceable if they go bad. I would expect them to eventually do so. So I guess it depends how long the controller lasts but many pumps and lights cost a lot more then these heaters and people do not get 20 years out of them.

 

[PeterC99]

Hi everyone,
I wanted to update you on the progress for the request for longer cables for the heating elements. I've got word back from R&D that they have decided to make the cables for the elements and sensor longer for a total length of 8 feet.

The next production line of heaters will incorporate the longer lengths and we should have them here sometime in May. We will create a list for those that need upgrading as time gets closer so we can send out the longer cables free of charge. In the meantime I have attached a drawing and cable lengths for the next batch of heating systems.

Thank you so much for your feedback and suggestions,

Best Regards, IM team

Thank you!

 

[1guydude]

Ty for sharing your findings. Im using the old finnex 500w with dial controller. Lol
I use a float glass temp reader lol.
D

 

[Flexin]

The heating elements are replaceable if they go bad. I would expect them to eventually do so. So I guess it depends how long the controller lasts but many pumps and lights cost a lot more then these heaters and people do not get 20 years out of them.

No evidence they last longer then the others so...

 

[Flexin]

No evidence they last longer then the others so...

What I mean by this, for the lights you normally get what you pay for, I still struggle to see the benefit here that’s all. I’m fine putting money on the right equipment, but it’s still not showing any more benefit from much cheaper units. If you. Bout it I get it you have to feel good about it, but having had expensive heaters also over the years, they failed just the same....

 

[PeterC99]

No evidence they last longer then the others so...

Correct - but it’s new technology (ceramic chips instead of electric coils) so time will tell.

interesting that these ceramic chips don’t overheat. I don’t have to worry that the heater over heating and frying the aquarium.

One month with the HELIO and my aquarium has been consistently 78 degrees.

 

[rmay6850]

Hi everyone,
I wanted to update you on the progress for the request for longer cables for the heating elements. I've got word back from R&D that they have decided to make the cables for the elements and sensor longer for a total length of 8 feet.

The next production line of heaters will incorporate the longer lengths and we should have them here sometime in May. We will create a list for those that need upgrading as time gets closer so we can send out the longer cables free of charge. In the meantime I have attached a drawing and cable lengths for the next batch of heating
Thank you so much for your feedback and suggestions,

Best Regards, IM team

Hi everyone,
I wanted to update you on the progress for the request for longer cables for the heating elements. I've got word back from R&D that they have decided to make the cables for the elements and sensor longer for a total length of 8 feet.

The next production line of heaters will incorporate the longer lengths and we should have them here sometime in May. We will create a list for those that need upgrading as time gets closer so we can send out the longer cables free of charge. In the meantime I have attached a drawing and cable lengths for the next batch of heating systems.

Thank you so much for your feedback and suggestions,

Best Regards, IM team

Great news, received mine this week and the additional length on the cords would be great..
Did I understand correctly this should not plug into the apex power box??

 

[PeterC99]

Great news, received mine this week and the additional length on the cords would be great..
Did I understand correctly this should not plug into the apex power box??

I disagree. I have mine plugged into my Apex. Important to leave Apex on and only use Apex to turn off If temp gets too high. This way HELIO manages off/on.

 

[rmay6850]

That how I set mine up so was just a bit confused at what I read earlier

 

[Flexin]

Correct - but it’s new technology (ceramic chips instead of electric coils) so time will tell.

interesting that these ceramic chips don’t overheat. I don’t have to worry that the heater over heating and frying the aquarium.

One month with the HELIO and my aquarium has been consistently 78 degrees.

My cobalts ran the same and locked on. I knew you had one lol. You gotta feel good about your purchases. Like you said time will tell and until then, no thank you. I will wait a few years. Nothing like brand new unproven tech in the tank...

 

[Flexin]

My cobalts ran the same and locked on. I knew you had one lol. You gotta feel good about your purchases. Like you said time will tell and until then, no thank you. I will wait a few years. Nothing like brand new unproven tech in the tank...

Oh and you support my point, if equipment is not expected to last long, then it is less justified to spend more on something that has a 5 year life ( for example). At least it if lasted 15 - 20 that may support spending more. .

 

[DHill6]

I disagree. I have mine plugged into my Apex. Important to leave Apex on and only use Apex to turn off If temp gets too high. This way HELIO manages off/on.

I agree as I plugged mine in this way also. IM rep told me to just plug it into a surge protector bar not the Apex. Maybe to protect a more expensive piece of equipment? Did you add a line on the Apex to turn the plug off if no flow for x minutes? The alarm went off when I turned the pump off for feeding , 15 minutes. Temp was down. Temp sensor is in overflow. If power goes out for extended period of time that alarm will be sounding.

 

[Mark Gray]

Yep my next purchase

 

[PeterC99]

I agree as I plugged mine in this way also. IM rep told me to just plug it into a surge protector bar not the Apex. Maybe to protect a more expensive piece of equipment? Did you add a line on the Apex to turn the plug off if no flow for x minutes? The alarm went off when I turned the pump off for feeding , 15 minutes. Temp was down. Temp sensor is in overflow. If power goes out for extended period of time that alarm will be sounding.

I didn’t add extra line to turn off Apex if no flow. The HELIO will automatically turn off if there is no flow.

I also put the sensor in the overflow. If I turn off the return pump, the HELIO goes off.

 

[PeterC99]

Yep my next purchase

Been very happy with my purchase. Stable temps, lower energy consumption, and easier maintenance.

 

[DHill6]

I didn’t add extra line to turn off Apex if no flow. The HELIO will automatically turn off if there is no flow.

I also put the sensor in the overflow. If I turn off the return pump, the HELIO goes off.

I’m going to watch next time I turn it off. The alarm was for temp drop. I had the heaters in the skimmer section since it was larger. When speaking to IM, rep had me move them to the inlet section of sump since there’s always flow there. That section is really small, if I’m feeding pellets to LPS I guess I’ll have to turn the heater off to miss that alarm. This sump is small, it’s on a RS170.