Fallow period vs tank breakdown

taylormaximus

Community Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Mar 21, 2023
Messages
40
Reaction score
2
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Alberta
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey guys, so I started my first saltwater tank this year, added a firefish goby which almost instantly got ich and died. Now my tank is completely empty and I'm completely sad.

Leaving out details of that story that I mentioned in other threads, my main issue now is that my display tank most definitely has ich in it, which I would like to eradicate before I go any further with my tank. I
The tank is 32 gallons with cycled rock and about a 1-1.5" sandbed. There's no inverts or corals in it, I moved my inverts to a QT once my fish started presenting symptoms, and the tank has been running at 1.009 for about a week now, although the fish just died yesterday.

So I see two paths to success here, but the point of this thread is to see which option would be more effective and efficient, or to see if there's any other options I hadn't considered. Here's the options:

Option 1: Crank up the heat in the tank as high as possible (to shorten the life cycle of the ich) and continue to run hypo for a month. I would also do a heavy cleaning and continue to dose microbacter start to maintain the biofilter. After this I would return the salinity and temperature to normal and add the inverts back in. Then I would QT any new fish for a minimum of 2 weeks, which would mean the tank would be fallow for a minimum of 45 days before fish are added, 30 of which would be in hyposalinity.

Option 2: Drain the tank completely and let the rocks and sand air dry. (I'm not sure how long that would take, but with my setup I would probably leave it for at least a week) I would also stir up the sand to make sure it thoroughly dries. Once it's completely dried out I would refill the tank with normal salinity and temperature, then redose the tank with microbacter start and ammonia chloride to recycle the tank. For me this took about 14 days. Then I would add the inverts back in, and QT all new fish for at least 14 days before adding them to the display. So this method would last for a minimum of 35 days before any fish are in the tank.

Which method would be more effective? I'm definitely drawn to a method that I can do faster, but not at the cost if risking any ich surviving in the tank. This is also assuming that completely drying out rock and sand does actually kill ich. I can't find much information on that but it seems logical. But any advice on either method is welcome!
 
CLICK TO VIEW

vetteguy53081

Well known Member and monster tank lover
Review score
+12 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
79,320
Reaction score
171,014
Review score
+12 /0 /-0
Location
Wisconsin - Florida delayed due 2 hurricane damage
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Hey guys, so I started my first saltwater tank this year, added a firefish goby which almost instantly got ich and died. Now my tank is completely empty and I'm completely sad.

Leaving out details of that story that I mentioned in other threads, my main issue now is that my display tank most definitely has ich in it, which I would like to eradicate before I go any further with my tank. I
The tank is 32 gallons with cycled rock and about a 1-1.5" sandbed. There's no inverts or corals in it, I moved my inverts to a QT once my fish started presenting symptoms, and the tank has been running at 1.009 for about a week now, although the fish just died yesterday.

So I see two paths to success here, but the point of this thread is to see which option would be more effective and efficient, or to see if there's any other options I hadn't considered. Here's the options:

Option 1: Crank up the heat in the tank as high as possible (to shorten the life cycle of the ich) and continue to run hypo for a month. I would also do a heavy cleaning and continue to dose microbacter start to maintain the biofilter. After this I would return the salinity and temperature to normal and add the inverts back in. Then I would QT any new fish for a minimum of 2 weeks, which would mean the tank would be fallow for a minimum of 45 days before fish are added, 30 of which would be in hyposalinity.

Option 2: Drain the tank completely and let the rocks and sand air dry. (I'm not sure how long that would take, but with my setup I would probably leave it for at least a week) I would also stir up the sand to make sure it thoroughly dries. Once it's completely dried out I would refill the tank with normal salinity and temperature, then redose the tank with microbacter start and ammonia chloride to recycle the tank. For me this took about 14 days. Then I would add the inverts back in, and QT all new fish for at least 14 days before adding them to the display. So this method would last for a minimum of 35 days before any fish are in the tank.

Which method would be more effective? I'm definitely drawn to a method that I can do faster, but not at the cost if risking any ich surviving in the tank. This is also assuming that completely drying out rock and sand does actually kill ich. I can't find much information on that but it seems logical. But any advice on either method is welcome!
I suggest option 1
However if tank is newer and not established, fully, option 2 . With option 2, you will go through cycle, ugly stages, etc if you dont mind that. As for rock drying out, ich without a host for a couple months will go flat and die off - at least should. The hypo should run at least 2-3 weeks more but you must decide where you feel safer and not rely on 16 option 1 and 12 option 2 as a solution
 

nuxx

Valuable Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
1,236
Reaction score
1,348
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Austin, Tx
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Always sucks going through this.

Had my first fish (part of a pair of black ice clowns) from my first 55 gallon tank all the way through my 470. That fish and the few I had in that first tank were no QTed.

I must have really dodged the bullet down the line with it not being infected. Every fish after him was QTed, along with everything wet.

Maybe I got lucky since I got him from a weird little boutique store, guess the owner had some type of protocol.
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar

vetteguy53081

Well known Member and monster tank lover
Review score
+12 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
79,320
Reaction score
171,014
Review score
+12 /0 /-0
Location
Wisconsin - Florida delayed due 2 hurricane damage
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Always sucks going through this.

Had my first fish (part of a pair of black ice clowns) from my first 55 gallon tank all the way through my 470. That fish and the few I had in that first tank were no QTed.

I must have really dodged the bullet down the line with it not being infected. Every fish after him was QTed, along with everything wet.

Maybe I got lucky since I got him from a weird little boutique store, guess the owner had some type of protocol.
Many of us have gotten and have been lucky.
Part of it is the LFS and how they manage their tanks with the customer buying a fish not realizing the fish has something, and they acquired a new problem until it strikes.
 

nuxx

Valuable Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
1,236
Reaction score
1,348
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Austin, Tx
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Many of us have gotten and have been lucky.
Part of it is the LFS and how they manage their tanks with the customer buying a fish not realizing the fish has something, and they acquired a new problem until it strikes.

Can only be lucky so long...
 
Corals.com
OP
OP
taylormaximus

taylormaximus

Community Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Mar 21, 2023
Messages
40
Reaction score
2
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Alberta
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Always sucks going through this.

Had my first fish (part of a pair of black ice clowns) from my first 55 gallon tank all the way through my 470. That fish and the few I had in that first tank were no QTed.

I must have really dodged the bullet down the line with it not being infected. Every fish after him was QTed, along with everything wet.

Maybe I got lucky since I got him from a weird little boutique store, guess the owner had some type of protocol.
Yeah I don't seem to experience this thing called luck... I did copious research, learned about every fish disease imaginable, carefully picked out the healthiest fish possible and got rewarded with a dead fish and a contaminated tank within two weeks. I wouldn't recommend the luck strategy to anyone moving forward. Not sure why I thought I could get away with it.
 
OP
OP
taylormaximus

taylormaximus

Community Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Mar 21, 2023
Messages
40
Reaction score
2
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Alberta
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I suggest option 1
However if tank is newer and not established, fully, option 2 . With option 2, you will go through cycle, ugly stages, etc if you dont mind that. As for rock drying out, ich without a host for a couple months will go flat and die off - at least should. The hypo should run at least 2-3 weeks more but you must decide where you feel safer and not rely on 16 option 1 and 12 option 2 as a solution
The tank is still new and going through the ugly stage right now, although the diatoms are fairly under control and just yellow the rocks and the glass a bit. I personally don't find it all that ugly yet.

Does anyone have any information on how long rocks and sand need to be dry to completely eradicate ich tomonts?
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Dec 9, 2014
Messages
27,374
Reaction score
21,925
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
tejas
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
per updated cycling science: you cannot starve a cycle. your tank has too many organics stored and if you fallowed 10 years then added fish back, a calibrated seneye would show zero impact to your biofilter. you cannot starve a cycle in a home reef tank setting.

take your fish out

add nothing in support of bacteria, don't waste cash, they don't need your help

if you have corals and inverts you'll feed them as normal

add fish back when ready, your biofilter will have zero shock. cycling is not finicky like old cycling science tried to sell us on
 
Corals.com

exnisstech

2500 Club Member
Review score
+2 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Feb 11, 2019
Messages
3,611
Reaction score
4,204
Review score
+2 /0 /-0
Location
North Central Ohio
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Option 1. Since the tank is new I would just run it fallow not adding any chems or additional bacteria and just ghost feed a little every couple of days . Buy the time the fallow period is over it should be ready to start adding fish slowly.
 

nuxx

Valuable Member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
1,236
Reaction score
1,348
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Austin, Tx
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yeah I don't seem to experience this thing called luck... I did copious research, learned about every fish disease imaginable, carefully picked out the healthiest fish possible and got rewarded with a dead fish and a contaminated tank within two weeks. I wouldn't recommend the luck strategy to anyone moving forward. Not sure why I thought I could get away with it.

Great outlook :)
 

Jay Hemdal

10K Club member
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
View Badges
Joined
Jul 31, 2020
Messages
19,471
Reaction score
19,602
Review score
+0 /0 /-0
Location
Dundee, MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Sorry to hear. I also think option 1 is the way to go, with all new fish getting a full quarantine.
Jay
 

Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%
FnR
Back
Top