Can you link your source for that info? Everything I have been told and read about, says it’s bacteria. I’m not trying be combative. I’m asking out of concern, since I’ve been using it as well.
Dosing Vibrant and its effects on my tank
- Thread starter DAWREEFER
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Bacterial product that can't reproduce in our tanks what I thought Vibrant was, as well. If it's an algicide then that's not something I'll be using.
OP
OP
I'm trying to work towards a Dragonet as my last livestock I'll be adding to the tank. I actually have Tig pods getting sent to me from Algae-barn and I'm wondering if that would help my hair algae situation. Thoughts?
My speculation: Vibrant has some fluconazole in it...
I have read the word 'proved', far too many times in this thread being thrown around by people who say they have a science background. Just to be clear - these people are wrong. That is not how science works. I've seen nothing here that does not follow good methodology. Utilizing all available...
www.reef2reef.com
Not definitive proof but if you want to read through that massive thread it seems highly unlikely Vibrant is a Bacteria. The "inventor" of Vibrant never really has a solid defense/response
Honestly vibrant works but the negatives outweigh the positives. When I was dosing all my pods got whipped and once I stopped dosing the hair algae came back. Instead I focused on controlling nutrients and making sure that I stayed on top of the water changes and using a brush on live rock to scrape off any GHA followed by spraying peroxide and rinsing with the water taken out from WC. It’s a pain but hair algae never came back since.
For me, Vibrant has been great. I had a massive bubble, ulva, and bryopsis outbreak. Since I'm running a 20G nano - I'm limited with what utilitarian fish I can have (for example, a tang would be great but I can't). I did two months of 2mL every other week. It was maintaining, but not killing the bubble algae back. I upped it to 2mL every week, and that seems to be the perfect amount. Once it's all gone, I'll probably go back to every other week and do that forever. I think the trick with Vibrant is to just go super slow - like months before changing the dose. Give it more time to work and if it's not getting any better after a couple of months, then increase.
OP
OP
Does Vibrant mess with Tig Copapods?
Dunno, there's still plenty of pods in my tank. I've just spent the last hour catching up on the Vibrant thread linked above. You should probably do the same. It seems UAC is selling snake oil - basically an algaecide dressed up as a bacterial product. It works, remarkably so. But it's not some magical natural product - it appears to be the same thing as algae fix. I think I'll continue to use it an an eradication effort of bryopsis and bubble algae, and once those are under control, I'll probably stop using it.
I really need to find a small fish like a tang that picks at algae all day that's suitable for a nano...
Tail spot blenny. Will keep your rocks pristine and give you a funny personality.
Thanks for posting this again. I saw that thread very early on, but hadn't kept up on the developments. Interesting read for sure.My speculation: Vibrant has some fluconazole in it...
I have read the word 'proved', far too many times in this thread being thrown around by people who say they have a science background. Just to be clear - these people are wrong. That is not how science works. I've seen nothing here that does not follow good methodology. Utilizing all available...
Not definitive proof but if you want to read through that massive thread it seems highly unlikely Vibrant is a Bacteria. The "inventor" of Vibrant never really has a solid defense/response
That's the only one I've thought of. Almost pulled the trigger on one months ago, but felt that adding a fish was counterproductive to algae control (bioload). Right now I really feel like I don't overfeed, and my nutrients aren't terrible, but a little high. (2-5 nitrates, 0.06 to 0.1 phosphates). It's like - "do I add more bioload, run higher nutrients, but have less algae"?
It's a conundrum I had seemingly fixed with Vibrant - but now I'm not so sure how I feel about dosing an algecide forever...
Vibrant may work to eradicate some GHA, but from pictures and parameters, to me it looks like you aren't exporting your nutrients efficiently, in which case the GHA will always come back. Step up your water change schedule, in a tank that small it isn't hard to do 25-50% water changes once a week to get your nutrients back in line, and find out what is causing your phosphate and nitrates so high. GHA is easy to deal with through nutrient manipulation.
What type of lighting are you using? Also what type of photo-period are you running? I found it most times that was solved by taking away whites and running a shorter light cycle helps
I've got a pair of AI primes running 8 hours a day. They are using the BRSTV settings which are fairly blue, and I've got an hour ramp on either end. I've got a PAR meter, and I've tested about 175 on the sandbed, and between 250 and 300 on the top of the rocks depending on any particular spot.
I've been doing 8G water changes every week, and I'm pretty religious about it. I also run a protein skimmer non stop, and change my filter pad twice a week. I feed Rod's frozen, and my three fish eat every last bit within 2-3 minutes.
Do you run any chemical media? It sounds like you’ll be okay with adding a tail spot since your nutrients are low. I would also suggest adding a small urchin would also help or even a sea hare will munch down any algae problems in your reef.
Don't fall for the lawnmower blenny if someone mentions that. A LFS sold me on this as the best alternative to my situation in lieu of adding more CUC. He does pick at algae here in there but he mostly eats the meat when I feed my other fish. He doesn't get along great with my watchman goby. Part of why I am heavy handed with my feeding is because I'm trying to make sure the Goby is getting his share because the LM blenny is such a pig. Ive been seriously contemplating rehoming him since he hasn't been super helpful and is probably causing me to contribute to my stubborn GHA.
Just a heads up it's been established that if you bump your QT tank to 81 your only need to quarantine inverts and corals for 45 days.
Thanks. I did know about that and would much prefer that. However I don’t trust my heater. I’ve tried calibrating it and it just won’t consistently heat to what I set it. I don’t trust it to not fluctuate too low or cook my inverts by going over a degree in temp. Not looking to drop the cash for a second inkbird so I’ll just have to be more patient. Which I hate being lol
Nice thread here where they talk about it and the manufacture is very.... interesting in their response and keeps moving the goal post.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/m...fluconazole-in-it.867114/page-30#post-9721106
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