Dosing macroalgae

Subsea

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Russ Kronwetter, diver/owner of GulfCoast Ecosystem, has an information guide on macroalgae:


NUTRIENT DOSING
Macro algae are much more diverse than vascular or terrestrial plants in their ability to uptake and process nutrients. They generally require a larger range of nutrients in an inorganic form than vascular plants do, but are able to derive a few essential nutrients from organic compounds such as some aquarium substrates. Few studies have been done on individual species of macro algae to determine which major and minor nutrients are essential to the plants survival and growth. This is due largely to the fact that natural seawater is used in most research and aquaculture production, which typically contains such high concentrations of the major and minor nutrients needed for plants to grow that specific data is never collected. However, it is commonly accepted that macro algae and sea grasses need the same essential elements as higher plants do. Unlike vascular plants, marine macro algae must be supplied nutrients through the water column and not through the substrate. This is achieved by providing all needed elements through the aquarium water.​
elements.png
Macro Nutrients

The macro nutrients, or primary nutrients, that marine plants need to achieve photosynthesis are: nitrogen, phosphate, potassium, sulphur, calcium, magnesium and carbon. Some marine algae that is heavily calcified, such as Halimeda optunia, need large amounts of calcium to grow. These plants in turn produce calcium based sand as a byproduct, which accounts for the majority of all Caribbean sand.
Nitrogen
Nitrogen is one of the major nutrients required by all plants and algae, both aquatic and terrestrial. It is used by the plants or algae in the production of stored proteins. Marine plants take up nitrogen in several forms, some more effectively than others. In the aquarium they include ammonia, ammonium, nitrite and nitrate. Nitrate is preferred among all marine plants and is a readily available nutrient in most aquariums. In most marine planted tanks and refugiums there is usually sufficient amounts of nitrates available in the water column due to the nitrogen cycle and fish waste to sustain small populations of plants without adding any additional nutrients. However, in heavily planted or sea grass dominated systems it will become necessary to keep nitrates elevated just enough to encourage growth. It is commonly suggested that a range of 5-10 ppm of nitrates is acceptable in marine plant dominated systems, perhaps more in more densely populated systems. Nitrate can be added as a supplement such as KNO3 (potassium nitrate) or CaNO3 (calcium nitrate) in dry form or premixed as a liquid. Another alternative is to use treated tap water without removing the nutrients. Great care must be taken with any periodic dosing as it can be harmful to both the plants as well as fish and invertebrates in the aquarium.
Phosphorus
Phosphorus is another important nutrient that marine plants need to grow. Marine plants readily absorb phosphorus in the form of phosphate (PO4). Phosphorus can be a limiting nutrient in the growth of marine plants but it is usually sufficiently present in the aquarium due to the addition of fish food, through detritus buildup and fish waste. In comparison with nitrogen, marine plants absorb far less phosphorus so care should be taken to limit the amount of phosphate in the aquarium Phosphate levels should be maintained below 0.07 ppm to rule out as a limiting nutrient. Over dosing this nutrient can be detrimental, causing algae blooms.
Potassium
Potassium is absorbed by marine plants as an ion from aquarium water and is generally available in sufficient amounts in most salt mixes and tap water. Potassium is a key component that is used for photosynthesis in marine plants. Dosing is generally not needed or required.
Sulphur
Sulphur is used by marine algae and plants in the production of amino acids, proteins and chlorophyll. It is generally present in sufficient amounts in both salt mixes and tap water. Sulphur can be toxic in large quantities so it should never be added as a fertilizer to the aquarium.
Calcium
Calcium is a very necessary element for all marine plants, as it is used in the formation of cell wall structure. As mentioned earlier, some macro algae such as coralline and calcareous algae readily absorb large amounts of calcium and are composed of almost pure calcium carbonate. Calcium, alkalinity and ph are all directly connected to each other, as the availability of carbonate mostly depends upon pH and alkalinity levels. So it is important to keep all three at acceptable levels so that calcium carbonate is freely available to the plants. Ideal dosing ranges are 7-10 DKH alkalinity, 8.4-8.5 ph and calcium levels between 380-450 ppm. Most commercially available products offer a simplified solution to maintaining the balance between alkalinity, ph and calcium levels. Calcium reactors can keep calcium levels high on a constant basis so are a welcome addition to any aquarium containing marine plants and invertebrates. Not only will keeping the ph and calcium levels high in a planted tank produce healthy plants, but the amount of micro algae will decrease as well.
Magnesium
Magnesium is another element that aids in the formation of cell wall structure within marine plants and especially coralline algae. It is often directly proportionate to the calcium levels found in both salt mixes and tap water. Because magnesium is an ingredient in most commercial salt mixes it is not normally necessary to dose this nutrient. However, magnesium will be depleted quickly with the formation of calcium carbonate in both plants and encrusting algae and needs to be monitored periodically. A target range of 1250-1350 ppm is sufficient for most marine aquariums containing calcareous and coralline algae.
Carbon
Carbon is used by all living organisms in varying amounts and is particularly important in the growth and structure of vascular plants. Plants obtain carbon from carbon dioxide, which is turned into oxygen through the process of photosynthesis. Most species of sea grasses can absorb large amounts of carbon from the both their roots and leaves, while macro algae are thought to need varying amounts depending on the species. It is generally accepted that the aeration/circulation provided by the filtration system creates enough free carbon to satisfy the needs of marine plants. The process of introducing carbon into the aquarium water through carbon dioxide fertilization does little to help in the growth of marine macro algae, but it would benefit a sea grass dominated system. However, the danger of a drastic fall in ph due to over saturation of carbon dioxide could be harmful and unproductive at best so it is seldom done in the marine aquarium hobby.
Micro Nutrients

The minor nutrients marine plants need to grow are: iron, manganese, copper, zinc & molybdenum, boron, iodine, bromine. These nutrients are normally needed in very small amounts so are often referred to as "trace elements" . Most commercially available salt mixes contain all of the minor nutrients needed for marine plant growth, so they are generally replenished by regular water changes.
Iron
Iron is an important micro nutrient absorbed by marine plants and is used in respiration and photosynthesis. The most readily absorbed form of iron is iron chelate. It is available in both dry and liquid forms and can be added safely to most aquariums without damage to its inhabitants. It is unknown how much available iron is used by marine plants but studies have shown that plants benefit from improved growth and color in systems that keep it at acceptable levels. There is some debate as to the quantity that should be dosed but most hobbyists add enough iron to rule it out as a limiting nutrient.
Manganese
Manganese is absorbed as an ion by marine plants and is used in photosynthesis. It is not normally a limiting nutrient in most marine aquariums as it is present in both salt mixes and tap water.
Copper
Copper is absorbed in very low concentrations as an ion and is used in respiration by marine plants. Marine invertebrates are very sensitive to copper so it should never be added to the aquarium water as it is present in significant amounts in both salt mixes and tap water.
Zinc
Zinc is used by marine plants in the formation of chlorophyll and is present in both substrates and tap water. At high levels it is very toxic and should never be added to the aquarium water.
Molybdenum
It is unclear what role this element plays in the growth of marine plants. In terrestrial plants it is used by the plant to break down nitrates into ammonium to be used as a source of nitrogen. Trace amounts are present in salt mixes and tap water.
Boron
Vascular plants require small levels of this nutrient for cellular membrane function, root growth and flower production. Boron has been shown to be essential for some marine algae, but not for most macro algae. Most salt mixes and tap water contain significant amounts necessary for the algae and plants that utilize them.
Iodine
It is believed that some varieties of red and brown macro algae require iodine and bromine as essential nutrients for growth. It has an obscure place in the marine aquarium hobby but is available as a supplement for species that require it.
Vitamin B12
Several species of macro algae utilize Vitamin B as an essential element of growth. It is also thought to be necessary in the growth of several sea grass species including turtle grass. Not much is know on the quantities needed as most prepared salt mixes have sufficient amounts present.​
Copyright © 2024 GCE All rights reserved. No part of this online publication may be reproduced in any form by any means without the expressed permission of the author. All images are the property of Gulf Coast Ecosystems unless otherwise noted and should not be reproduced or distributed without permission.
 
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Subsea

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Because some of my systems are fishless, I add ammonia everyday and liquid kelp concentrate ever other day.



 

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Thank you for that…
I’m just starting to venture into the weeds here and know little.
If someone were to dose or use a “all in one” solution, what would it be?
I have a macro dominated sump with assorted macros and seek simplicity. The sumps purpose is water management for 240 gallon reef and I want to minimize any negatives all the while preventing reproduction and meltdowns
….Ive used “Chaeto Grow” but negative reviews have me questioning it
 
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vlangel

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Thank you for that…
I’m just starting to venture into the weeds here and no little.
If someone were to dose or use a “all in one” solution, what would it be?
I have a macro dominated sump with assorted macros and seek simplicity. The sumps purpose is water management for 240 gallon reef and I want to mini size any negatives all the while preventing reproduction and meltdowns
….Ive used “Chaeto Grow” but negative reviews have me questioning it
Hi Doctorgori I just stock my tank kind of heavy with fish, feed them well with both flake and frozen and add some All For Reef once a week and my macroalgae flourish. I will say I had not had a lot of success with calcareous varieties but I have good luck with ulva, cheato, codium, gracilaria hayi, botrycladia and caulerpa cupressoides.
20241016_104716.jpg
 

Doctorgori

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Hi Doctorgori I just stock my tank kind of heavy with fish, feed them well with both flake and frozen and add some All For Reef once a week and my macroalgae flourish. I will say I had not had a lot of success with calcareous varieties but I have good luck with ulva, cheato, codium, gracilaria hayi, botrycladia and caulerpa cupressoides.
20241016_104716.jpg
Wow, and appreciate the info…
Yes, luckily I also use AFR and the sump is filled with mollies
I won’t bother with the off the shelf ferts then…

If the OP forgives, may I ask how you control string algae? What is your CUC collection? Every turbo I’ve tried goes straight for any red algae, I mean they make a point of eating it. Nerites and ceriths don’t bother it but these focus on the soft glass stuff …anything green and stringy isn’t touched … Mollies being equally picky
 

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Thank you for that…
I’m just starting to venture into the weeds here and no little.
If someone were to dose or use a “all in one” solution, what would it be?
I have a macro dominated sump with assorted macros and seek simplicity. The sumps purpose is water management for 240 gallon reef and I want to mini size any negatives all the while preventing reproduction and meltdowns
….Ive used “Chaeto Grow” but negative reviews have me questioning it

I am a fan of chaeto gro. I've used it many times in different systems.
 

vlangel

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Wow, and appreciate the info…
Yes, luckily I also use AFR and the sump is filled with mollies
I won’t bother with the off the shelf ferts then…

If the OP forgives, may I ask how you control string algae? What is your CUC collection? Every turbo I’ve tried goes straight for any red algae, I mean they make a point of eating it. Nerites and ceriths don’t bother it but these focus on the soft glass stuff …anything green and stringy isn’t touched … Mollies being equally picky
I don't get much nuisance algae, I guess because the tank has so much ornamental algae. If I get a little gha I remove it manually. I do not have any algae eating cuc because I was afraid that they would eat my macros. I have nassarius and bee snails but their job is to clean up meaty frozen food that the fish don't get. The nassarius snails and the Atlantic cucumber also stir up the surface of the sandbed.
I do have a bristletooth tang, (tomini) and a bristletooth blenny, (a midas) and a coral beauty dwarf angelfish and they all scrape some algae and pick detritus.
 
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Subsea

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Thank you for that…
I’m just starting to venture into the weeds here and know little.
If someone were to dose or use a “all in one” solution, what would it be?
I have a macro dominated sump with assorted macros and seek simplicity. The sumps purpose is water management for 240 gallon reef and I want to minimize any negatives all the while preventing reproduction and meltdowns
….Ive used “Chaeto Grow” but negative reviews have me questioning it
My only negative comment on ChaetoGrow is the cost. I have fishless seaweed monoculture growout tanks that double their biomass every 3 weeks and for that fast growth I now use liquid kelp concentrate.

image.jpg
 

Doctorgori

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I now use liquid kelp concentrate.
Im looking into into that right now…Appreciate any brand recommendations since Kelp concentrate or whatever is for terrestrial use, the concern is some products might contain something funky…


That looks like Red Ogo or similar. May I ask is that for food or resale?
Anyway Im getting hair algae on that stuff, the flat blade stuff and the red bubble stuff. How the heck are you guys avoiding string algae?
I see no cuc in that tank…interesting
 

vlangel

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Im looking into into that right now…Appreciate any brand recommendations since Kelp concentrate or whatever is for terrestrial use, the concern is some products might contain something funky…


That looks like Red Ogo or similar. May I ask is that for food or resale?
Anyway Im getting hair algae on that stuff, the flat blade stuff and the red bubble stuff. How the heck are you guys avoiding string algae?
I see no cuc in that tank…interesting
My tank is 8 years old so no doubt it's maturity has made it more balanced. I think the dsb also helps.
 

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