Does bacteria in a bottle work to speed up cycling a new tank?

adobo

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I'm sure this topic has been covered in the past but I wanted to post my observations and resulting questions.

I'm setting up a 22 gallon nano tank. Although I have everything else, I am still waiting on a custom stand. Without the custom stand, I basically cannot set up the aquarium (and the sump + plumbing that goes with it). In an effort to make use of the waiting time, I put my dead reef rock and "bag o' live sand" in a 10gallon tank. I put in a thing of Dr Tim's one and only and the recommended amount of ammonium chloride. My saltwater is made with RO/DI (reads zero free and total chlorine) + tropic marin salt. Salinity was reading 35ppt per a refractometer.

In the beginning, I was only testing ammonia. It read ~3ppm for the first week. I re-read the instructions and re-watched Dr Tim's videos. The claim is that ammonia levels in some cases drop from 2ppm to zero by the next day. For me, after one week, tank is still reading 3ppt. I had an exchange with someone at Dr Tim's where they told me to drop the salinity to 28ppt. Also, increase temp to around 85 F. I started testing nitrite and nitrate. Tank has been reading 2ppm nitrite and 25-40ppm nitrate via Salifert test kits.

Two days dropping the salinity to 28ppm and the tests reading largely the same, I gave up. I started doing 15% daily water changes. I guess numerous problems were going on in my head. Maybe elevated ammonia or nitrate levels are hindering nitrifying bacteria from reproducing. Maybe alkalinity was consumed to the level that maybe there isn't enough to facilitate nitrification. Whatever, the case, I didn't water changes would hurt. After about 3 or 4 15% water changes, ammonia dropped to about .5ppm and nitrate dropped to about 25 ppm. Nitrite stayed at 2ppm.

I left the tank as it was for 3 days thinking that nitrifying bacteria would take care of whatever ammonia was left. No dice. Tank stayed at .5ppm ammonia. I did one more water change and then the next day, the tank read 0 ammonia. (nitrite and nitrate remained largely unchanged).

I emailed Dr Tim's and was told that likely the ammonia levels were not dropping as the "bag o' live sand" was likely contributing decaying organics that were keeping ammonia levels constant at 2ppm. Ok, I guess I can buy that.

So yesterday, tank was reading 0ppm ammonia. I figure there should now be enough nitrifying bacteria to handle a tiny increase in ammonia load. So I added 1/4 of the usual dose of ammonium chloride. Last night, I tested, it showed .5ppm. Today, I tested again, still .5ppm ammonia.

All that is to say, it seems to me that this bacteria in a bottle is about the most convoluted way to cycle a tank that I can think of. It seems like live rock + live sand and leave it alone for 30ish days is still as good a technique if not better. I am into the third week of this cycle now and the process to convert ammonia to nitrite seems weak still and the process to convert nitrite into nitrate doesn't seem like it benefitted at all.

Thoughts?

Also, regarding my nitrite and nitrate readings - I was using salifert test kits. According to Dr. Tim, test kits can be giving nitrite (nitrogen) or nitrite (ion) readings. Both are valid but its like the difference between imperial and metric. I think salifert reads nitrite (ion) which is roughly 3x higher than nitrite (nitrogen). Does anyone know if that is true? If so, does that mean that my nitrite reading (2ppm) is really less than 1ppm nitrite (nitrogen)?
 
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andrewey

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Couple of thoughts:
1) You are right that the live rock and live sand is a great way to cycle a tank.
2) Not all bacterial products are equal.
3) There are many variables that go into cycling a tank and rather than repeat what has already been discussed on forums and in journals ad naseum, suffice it to say, local conditions have a pretty large effect.
4) Not all bacterial additives are stable throghout the supply chain they were shipped in. Some can take extreme cold/heat that might be present at that storage facility/distribution center, some cannot.
5) Test kits and test meters are only as good as their reagents, testing tecnique, and accuracy/resolution. Unfortunately, few hobbyists compare their results against standards to tell if their ammonia reading is accurate or not.


That being said, I believe in some cases the additive industry makes claims they cannot back up and in other cases, the products perform their intended task (whether or not other hobbyists/sellers conflate these claims is a different matter altogether). Ultimately, I wouldn't write off the entire idea of bacteria in a bottle. While the water is murky in how some are being advertised and the what endpoints are important, most do the job they were designed to do- which is to increase the nitrifying bacterial population of the tank. The speed they do that as depends on the product, shipping conditions, types of bacteria, local conditions, and a host of other variables. This is why one person using product xxx might be able to convert 2ppm ammonia to 0 in 3 days while another person might take 2 weeks to achieve the same effect. Add in the different products being talked about and it's a recipe for apples to oranges :)

It's a long thread, but a good place to start reading about the different products can be found here:
 
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adobo

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Couple of thoughts:
1) You are right that the live rock and live sand is a great way to cycle a tank.
2) Not all bacterial products are equal.
3) There are many variables that go into cycling a tank and rather than repeat what has already been discussed on forums and in journals ad naseum, suffice it to say, local conditions have a pretty large effect.
4) Not all bacterial additives are stable throghout the supply chain they were shipped in. Some can take extreme cold/heat that might be present at that storage facility/distribution center, some cannot.
5) Test kits and test meters are only as good as their reagents, testing tecnique, and accuracy/resolution. Unfortunately, few hobbyists compare their results against standards to tell if their ammonia reading is accurate or not.


That being said, I believe in some cases the additive industry makes claims they cannot back up and in other cases, the products perform their intended task (whether or not other hobbyists/sellers conflate these claims is a different matter altogether). Ultimately, I wouldn't write off the entire idea of bacteria in a bottle. While the water is murky in how some are being advertised and the what endpoints are important, most do the job they were designed to do- which is to increase the nitrifying bacterial population of the tank. The speed they do that as depends on the product, shipping conditions, types of bacteria, local conditions, and a host of other variables. This is why one person using product xxx might be able to convert 2ppm ammonia to 0 in 3 days while another person might take 2 weeks to achieve the same effect. Add in the different products being talked about and it's a recipe for apples to oranges :)

It's a long thread, but a good place to start reading about the different products can be found here:

Dr. Tim has a few versions of videos where he describes the fishless tank cycling. There is even one where he gives tips during a MACNA conference. He seems to know his shizzle. I mean, his info is deep. You can sometimes tell when someone has superficial knowledge. He doesn't come across that way. And yet two bottles into his one and only product, I am not sure I see any evidence that the stuff is any more than snake oil.

I really hope that my experience is easily explained if one had the requisite knowledge.

P.S. Regarding the "your mileage may vary" portion of your response - I find it strange that this is the case for me. I mean, an aquarium is a closed system. I have dead rock, I used RO/DI water. I thoroughly rinsed out the tank before use. I set the temperature and salinity to Dr Tim's recommendation. As far as I can tell, the only variables here are, how much ammonia is leaching from the live sand and how much viable bacteria was in not one but the two bottles that have gone in the tank. The only way I can think of minimizing variables would have been to start with dead crushed coral.

Edit: I didn't catch the link to the other thread previously. Thanks for that.
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Also, regarding my nitrite and nitrate readings - I was using salifert test kits. According to Dr. Tim, test kits can be giving nitrite (nitrogen) or nitrite (ion) readings. Both are valid but its like the difference between imperial and metric. I think salifert reads nitrite (ion) which is roughly 3x higher than nitrite (nitrogen). Does anyone know if that is true? If so, does that mean that my nitrite reading (2ppm) is really less than 1ppm nitrite (nitrogen)?

Salifert kits read in ppm of the ion, not ppm of the N in them.

The Salifert kit will give a seriously false high nitrate reading if there is any nitrite present. So ignore nitrate testing as long as you have nitrite.
 

Tono

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Dr. Tim has a few versions of videos where he describes the fishless tank cycling. There is even one where he gives tips during a MACNA conference. He seems to know his shizzle. I mean, his info is deep. You can sometimes tell when someone has superficial knowledge. He doesn't come across that way. And yet two bottles into his one and only product, I am not sure I see any evidence that the stuff is any more than snake oil.

I really hope that my experience is easily explained if one had the requisite knowledge.

Were the 2 bottles bought from the same distributor and shipped in the same conditions?
 

SMSREEF

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You could just go buy a few pieces of real live rock. They will get you where you need to be very quickly.

Or get a different product. I did not have luck with anything other than Fritz turbo start 900 and Bio-spira.

But, I would use my money on live rock because it will come with not only the bacteria to cycle the tank, but the different bacteria you need to have a diverse biome To help keep problematic microbes in check.
 
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adobo

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You could just go buy a few pieces of real live rock. They will get you where you need to be very quickly.

Or get a different product. I did not have luck with anything other than Fritz turbo start 900 and Bio-spira.

But, I would use my money on live rock because it will come with not only the bacteria to cycle the tank, but the different bacteria you need to have a diverse biome To help keep problematic microbes in check.

Real live rock seems like a different animal altogether. Then we get into how much live rock, whether it is cured, what hitchhikers came along for the ride, etc.

I also don't have such a high opinion of so called "live sand" in a bag. To be fair, my sample size is one so...
 

SMSREEF

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Real live rock is a different animal altogether. Then we get into how much live rock, whether it is cured, what hitchhikers came along for the ride, etc.
Yes different animal all together.
Seemed like in your original post you were open to that other animal.
 
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adobo

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Yes different animal all together.
Seemed like in your original post you were open to that other animal.

I'm not not open to it. I'm just trying to wrap my head around what I am observing with my tank vs. what the marketing claims.

One reason I went with dead rock is I had a ton of flexibility in aquascaping. I mucked around with different ways to put little pieces into big pieces before cementing them into place. Hard to do with cycled live rock that has stuff growing on it.
 

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I'm not not open to it. I'm just trying to wrap my head around what I am observing with my tank vs. what the marketing claims.

One reason I went with dead rock is I had a ton of flexibility in aquascaping. I mucked around with different ways to put little pieces into big pieces before cementing them into place. Hard to do with cycled live rock that has stuff growing on it.
Yes it is. And same reason I got the dead stuff.
But I am adding live to it now after Dino’s and chrysophytes.
I spent so much money on bacteria in a bottle and I wish I had just spent that $$$ on some good live rock.
Just lessons learned and trying to help;)
But if you want bacteria in bottle the two I wrote about worked in a day or 2.
 
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GBRsouth

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In the beginning, I was only testing ammonia. It read ~3ppm for the first week.

The recommended maximum level to dose ammonia is 2ppm. Above that, the ammonia level maybe toxic to the bacteria.

It maybe that if you did dose to 3ppm ammonia that bacteria numbers were greatly reduced.

Try keeping ammonia levels at or below 2ppm and introduce more bacteria.
 

blasterman

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As I read more and more on the topic nitrosomonas bacteria needs to actually establish on surfaces before it starts working. This means it's pretty worthless coming out of a bottle.

Good live rock is priceless. Rather than sell bacteria in a bottle these vendors should sell rock chunks that comes from bare bottom tanks and being dosed with heavy amounts of ammonia to establish large loads of bacteria ready to go.

Regardless, I've always started my tanks with light fish loads for over 30 years and never had a death or stressed fish. Cycling is an inevitable event. What happens when the tank is cycled to being 5-6 ,months old is far, far more important and unpredictable.
 

tippin.turtle

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Just posted this in another thread but will hit this one too. I designed my new tank setup along the Triton method before Triton was a"thing". I had issues with filtration with a koi pond project I did many years ago. Not enough biological filtration for the fish load I had. Biological filtration was inadequate and therefore fish died. Veggie filtration and increased biological surface area turned things around for that system. Why not apply the same principals for a reef tank?
Now I have a pass through tank with ceramic media blocks, bio balls, and chaeto algae. My tank cycled in four days using Dr. Tims "all in one".
You may just not have enough surface area for bacteria to attach to properly?
IMG_0411.JPG
 
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92Miata

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You could just go buy a few pieces of real live rock. They will get you where you need to be very quickly.

Or get a different product. I did not have luck with anything other than Fritz turbo start 900 and Bio-spira.

But, I would use my money on live rock because it will come with not only the bacteria to cycle the tank, but the different bacteria you need to have a diverse biome To help keep problematic microbes in check.
I've seen a lot of complaints about tanks not cycling with Dr Tim's - which makes me wonder if they've got some sort of supply chain issue somewhere.

I've cycled a couple tanks now with BioSpira off Amazon, and they've all had fish in them within a week.
 

LeftyReefer

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I started a new tank with new dry sand and new dry rock.
I dosed my tank up to 2ppm ammonia, dumped in a 4 oz bottle of Turbo Start 900 and 4 oz of Bio-Spira. My tank cycled in a week. Dosed it up to 2ppm three times just to be sure and everytime ammonia dropped to 0ppm by 24 hours. My tank was started last monday. Ive dosed it three times since. It now sits with 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrites, and 40 ppm nitrates. It's ready for a water change and live stock.

Now saying that. My bottle of Turbo Start 900 was very fresh and was shipped to me with ice packs to keep it cold during delivery. I think that makes a difference.

I think Turbo Start 900 and Bio-Spira work. The others.... Not so sure.
 

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