Dino outbreak?
- Thread starter zach_jb69
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How many gallons is that tank
You're at a crossroads lots of people wish they could go back to: what do you do right at first detection? (They want to go back in time to do - opposite- of what they'd chose, that's key, everyone took some type of action: what worked and what did they regret?)
You're at a crossroads lots of people wish they could go back to: what do you do right at first detection? (They want to go back in time to do - opposite- of what they'd chose, that's key, everyone took some type of action: what worked and what did they regret?)
~MD~Reefs~
Active Member
What’s your nitrate and phosphate at? It’s not a fact yet but the common understanding is your nutrients bottomed out. You’ll need to get a microscope to ID what kind you have and from there you’ll know how to treat.
Why gallonage is the most important factor for anyone's dinos challenge at this crossroads: depending on how big your tank is, you can rip clean it to arrest the issue
But if it's a large tank, you can't, get ready to hate reefing for about 40 months. Fingers crossed you have a nano
But if it's a large tank, you can't, get ready to hate reefing for about 40 months. Fingers crossed you have a nano
~MD~Reefs~
Active Member
Why 40 months? If its an “easy” strain like Osterpsis that can be treated with UV it shouldn’t take anywhere near as long
~MD~Reefs~
Active Member
that's amazing. here's where you stand
in the nuisance algae forum, the largest running single thread for dinos jobs I know of on the entire web is running. about 900 pages you can quick skim for before and after pics
spend 30 mins doing just that, at the end you see this:
dinos tanks changed to cyano tanks changed to GHA tanks and 3% fixes
you also have a repository of ten thousand people with wrecked dinos who've crossed your crossroads
what they did (or did not do) is on file. click their name
select find all threads
look at their tank posts before the event
look at what they were advised to do during the event. note the outcome, as you scrolled. nearly all those jobs are not fixed. fix rate is low.
its important to know that lots of people have beaten dinos in their tank, and that's the source of their surety.
once the ability to beat dinos in our homes transfers well to beating them for other people, in their home, then when you scroll 30 mins in the world's largest dinos thread you will see lots of fixes.
in the nuisance algae forum, the largest running single thread for dinos jobs I know of on the entire web is running. about 900 pages you can quick skim for before and after pics
spend 30 mins doing just that, at the end you see this:
dinos tanks changed to cyano tanks changed to GHA tanks and 3% fixes
you also have a repository of ten thousand people with wrecked dinos who've crossed your crossroads
what they did (or did not do) is on file. click their name
select find all threads
look at their tank posts before the event
look at what they were advised to do during the event. note the outcome, as you scrolled. nearly all those jobs are not fixed. fix rate is low.
its important to know that lots of people have beaten dinos in their tank, and that's the source of their surety.
once the ability to beat dinos in our homes transfers well to beating them for other people, in their home, then when you scroll 30 mins in the world's largest dinos thread you will see lots of fixes.
at 15 gallons this is how rip cleaning will work
once you rip clean the tank it will look brand new, it'll take about 2 hours time. we have threads that are sixty pages long, 500 rip cleans, it's easy to find 15 gallon ones we've already did ten times over
we would then drastically reduce your lighting, that's a big cause here. your lighting intensity and likely white balance (I use none for a reason) is too high.
how many times in the wrecked dinos thread did they start off with a rip clean and lighting adjustment? I count: zero
the results in rip clean threads:
www.reef2reef.com
a dinos battle was our first battle.
***since you have a 15 gallon go ahead and experiment with any other method you want to guess at, not a prob. if you delay too long, and pack every square inch in cramped dinos cells (it's approaching) then it will just take more than one rip clean to fix it, but still we can fix it.
if your tank was 50 gallons, right on the brink of being too big to handle like we do, then I'd say act yesterday you don't want to have to run triples on a 50 gallon.
dinos are the scourge of reefing. everyone wants to help, but as you can see, cures run low
do opposite of what the masses do is my advice: use means that are suited to the size of your reef tank. a 100 gallon tank owner could never do what you can do today or whenever, no rush that's the truth.
the quicker you act, the more chance you have for a one-pass fix.
the reason I didn't ask about nutrient levels: I don't believe the test kits you use will line up with the reports from any other test kit for the parameter at hand, they're approximations. I don't use testing, I use physical rip cleaning to save reefs. at no time in human history does a rip cleaned tank become a cyano>gha> back to dinos tank, that cycle ends when the resolve to win is simply forced in place.
the number one bad thing nearly every tank owner did in that big thread of non fixes but good works in progress: see the invasion, then leave it in the tank to grow.
nearly every tank we see chose to leave the growths in place for extended periods, selecting among methods that would kill off the invasions. the rotting mass cast around afterwards, if a kill did occur, is what fueled the cyano and gha evolutions. the reason rip cleaned tanks do not alter generations of invasions is because we remove 100% of all waste/invader complex from a tank.
here is a rip clean thread sixty pages long
www.reef2reef.com
they're not dinos tanks, those rip cleans are for moving homes. but
you also get to see what any reef tank looks like after a rip clean (like you want it to)
and you get to see what they do in pattern, when hundreds of tanks of all sizes do this operation
you can find the follow up posts about their tank a year later from our collection, like we did in the dinos thread read up.
even if rip cleaning is not the final win, it's handy to take your total tank invader cell count from one billion cells, to 200,000 invisible ones left after a rip clean, so that the chosen method has less target mass to work on.
there's no way that skipping a rip clean is good for a 15 gallon nano reef under invasion, it's the literal best fix.
once you rip clean the tank it will look brand new, it'll take about 2 hours time. we have threads that are sixty pages long, 500 rip cleans, it's easy to find 15 gallon ones we've already did ten times over
we would then drastically reduce your lighting, that's a big cause here. your lighting intensity and likely white balance (I use none for a reason) is too high.
how many times in the wrecked dinos thread did they start off with a rip clean and lighting adjustment? I count: zero
the results in rip clean threads:
Algae Identification
Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?
www.reef2reef.com
a dinos battle was our first battle.
***since you have a 15 gallon go ahead and experiment with any other method you want to guess at, not a prob. if you delay too long, and pack every square inch in cramped dinos cells (it's approaching) then it will just take more than one rip clean to fix it, but still we can fix it.
if your tank was 50 gallons, right on the brink of being too big to handle like we do, then I'd say act yesterday you don't want to have to run triples on a 50 gallon.
dinos are the scourge of reefing. everyone wants to help, but as you can see, cures run low
do opposite of what the masses do is my advice: use means that are suited to the size of your reef tank. a 100 gallon tank owner could never do what you can do today or whenever, no rush that's the truth.
the quicker you act, the more chance you have for a one-pass fix.
the reason I didn't ask about nutrient levels: I don't believe the test kits you use will line up with the reports from any other test kit for the parameter at hand, they're approximations. I don't use testing, I use physical rip cleaning to save reefs. at no time in human history does a rip cleaned tank become a cyano>gha> back to dinos tank, that cycle ends when the resolve to win is simply forced in place.
the number one bad thing nearly every tank owner did in that big thread of non fixes but good works in progress: see the invasion, then leave it in the tank to grow.
nearly every tank we see chose to leave the growths in place for extended periods, selecting among methods that would kill off the invasions. the rotting mass cast around afterwards, if a kill did occur, is what fueled the cyano and gha evolutions. the reason rip cleaned tanks do not alter generations of invasions is because we remove 100% of all waste/invader complex from a tank.
here is a rip clean thread sixty pages long
Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread
If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...
www.reef2reef.com
you also get to see what any reef tank looks like after a rip clean (like you want it to)
and you get to see what they do in pattern, when hundreds of tanks of all sizes do this operation
you can find the follow up posts about their tank a year later from our collection, like we did in the dinos thread read up.
even if rip cleaning is not the final win, it's handy to take your total tank invader cell count from one billion cells, to 200,000 invisible ones left after a rip clean, so that the chosen method has less target mass to work on.
there's no way that skipping a rip clean is good for a 15 gallon nano reef under invasion, it's the literal best fix.
Last edited:
Sdoutreefer
Well-Known Member
What causes dynos? I ended up tearing my last tank down because of them. I could never get a grip on what the heck was going on.
Are they caused because your nutrients "bottom out"? In my mind, if that is the case, it seems that dynos could be easily avoided, with just feeding your tank daily, and having a large bio-load.
Am I thinking about this in the completely wrong way?
Are they caused because your nutrients "bottom out"? In my mind, if that is the case, it seems that dynos could be easily avoided, with just feeding your tank daily, and having a large bio-load.
Am I thinking about this in the completely wrong way?
Spare time
10K Club member
It is often associated with 0.00 phosphates though causes are not certain.
they are part of reef tank ecosystems and are transmitted among living things moved tank to tank, primarily in systems that do not use quarantine (the rationale being that if we qt, we have time to express/detect/treat these surprises)
dinos can easily ride/vector into new tanks stuck to the sides of fish. in a large thread at reefcentral/chem forum from back in 2012 from poster DNA there's another giant dinos thread and he has macro cam pics of dinos cells adhered to the sides of new fish he was going to put in the tank.
**old school reefers did not have this problem in the late 90s, early 2000's. I don't know why it's shifted, so strange. it's the new scourge of reefing in my opinion, the top challenge so far.
dinos can easily ride/vector into new tanks stuck to the sides of fish. in a large thread at reefcentral/chem forum from back in 2012 from poster DNA there's another giant dinos thread and he has macro cam pics of dinos cells adhered to the sides of new fish he was going to put in the tank.
**old school reefers did not have this problem in the late 90s, early 2000's. I don't know why it's shifted, so strange. it's the new scourge of reefing in my opinion, the top challenge so far.
UnnamedReef
Community Member
Agree a rip clean is your best bet if you confirm you have dinos. Like Brandon said there's a ton of info on the right way to do the cleaning, and it shouldn't be too bad on a 15g.
I did it on my 55g recently and couldn't be happier with the results. Took a huge dino outbreak out completely and allowed me to manage it going forward. For what it's worth I did a writeup on it https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/so-i-went-for-a-rip-clean.1071641/#post-12825443
Happy to help with yours if you go that route.
I did it on my 55g recently and couldn't be happier with the results. Took a huge dino outbreak out completely and allowed me to manage it going forward. For what it's worth I did a writeup on it https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/so-i-went-for-a-rip-clean.1071641/#post-12825443
Happy to help with yours if you go that route.
~MD~Reefs~
Active Member
If it’s only 15g, rip clean is your easiest bet.
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