Dino help

[nedyazayden]

Thought this was diatoms at first but then after cleaning the sandbed and it coming back the same day just like it was before I realized it was something more so I decided to microscope it now just looking for a positive I.D and advice on how to go to war. My nitrates where sround 5ppm for about a month and a half never got Dino’s but once I finnaly beat the alage that was sucking up all my nutrients they shot back up to somewhere between 25ppm-50ppm (in the process of being brought down) but now is when I’m seeing the what I assume to be Dino’s it’s not super bad yet but I’m thinking that must just be from the preventatives I already have. I have an aqua ultraviolet hanging back uv sterilizer (it’s a 30 gallon tank) and my nitrates are already holding it back a little bit I assume. Would turning the flow rate on my sterilizer up be smart I have it kinda low bc the water splashing makes alot of noise.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thought this was diatoms at first but then after cleaning the sandbed and it coming back the same day just like it was before I realized it was something more so I decided to microscope it now just looking for a positive I.D and advice on how to go to war. My nitrates where sround 5ppm for about a month and a half never got Dino’s but once I finnaly beat the alage that was sucking up all my nutrients they shot back up to somewhere between 25ppm-50ppm (in the process of being brought down) but now is when I’m seeing the what I assume to be Dino’s it’s not super bad yet but I’m thinking that must just be from the preventatives I already have. I have an aqua ultraviolet hanging back uv sterilizer (it’s a 30 gallon tank) and my nitrates are already holding it back a little bit I assume. Would turning the flow rate on my sterilizer up be smart I have it kinda low bc the water splashing makes alot of noise.

Confirmed dinos. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and need to be controlled.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which acts as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[nedyazayden]

Confirmed dinos. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and need to be controlled.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which acts as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

The hydrogen peroxide won’t hurt fish/coral/hermit/snails/ anemone??

 

[vetteguy53081]

The hydrogen peroxide won’t hurt fish/coral/hermit/snails/ anemone??

No- it’s mainly water and acts as an oxidizer

 

[saltyhog]

These appear to be Prorocentrum dinos. I don't recommend blackouts as they usually only cause temporary, cosmetic improvement. It also can stress corals already stressed by the dinos and increase coral losses.

H202 is helpful but isn't usually a fix IME.

This type is best treated by silicate dosing to elicit a competing diatom bloom. Many recommend UV for them but I find silicate dosing better for these.

 

[Chief Reef Corals]

These appear to be Prorocentrum dinos. I don't recommend blackouts as they usually only cause temporary, cosmetic improvement. It also can stress corals already stressed by the dinos and increase coral losses.

H202 is helpful but isn't usually a fix IME.

This type is best treated by silicate dosing to elicit a competing diatom bloom. Many recommend UV for them but I find silicate dosing better for these.

What is silicate dosing?

 

[Mikeltee]

What is silicate dosing?

Technical Grade Sodium Silicate Solution or Water Glass, 16oz for sale. Buy from The Science Company

Sodium silicate (water glass) is a clear, colorless liquid with a viscosity of 42 degrees Baume. Used in soaps, detergents, adhesives and in waterproofing.

www.sciencecompany.com

Hold you tank at 3ppm. Hanna makes a LR silicate checker. It maxes out at 2ppm, so figure out how your tank behaves with 2ppm and then increase to 3ppm. Run a closed loop UV in your display.