Did I really cycle my tank in 10 days?

[Will_]

Hi all look for some advice on a new tank I set up. On 3/20 I filled a biocube 32 with 20lbs of live sand, 35lbs of dry rock, instant ocean reef crystals to a SG of 1.024, temp 82, and a whole bottle of Fluval cycle bacteria for fresh and marine aquariums rated to cycle 200gallons. No testing so far

Then on 3/30 I added a bottle of Dr Tim’s one and only nitrifying bacteria rated for 30gallons. I did NOT add ammonium chloride since the live sand is an ammonia source

On 3/31 I tested Ammonia (Red Sea) , Nitrite (salifert) , and Nitrate (salifert) (each test conducted twice)
Ammonia: 0.2
Nitrite: 0.25
Nitrate: 2.5

It seems to me the cycle has quickly started and maybe even stabilized. if I do a 50%water change it should remove the small amount of ammonia present.

are these numbers looking for 13 days into the cycle? The cycle is established correct? Can I add one clown fish if the water change brings ammonia to 0?
Thanks for the help it is greatly appreciated!

 

[blaxsun]

It may have, yes. Does Tim's recommend the 50% water change?

 

[Will_]

It may have, yes. Does Tim's recommend the 50% water change?

I will have to read the bottle again when I get home, but I do not believe it said to do a 50% wc

 

[blaxsun]

I will have to read the bottle again when I get home, but I do not believe it said to do a 50% wc

Stick to the instructions. I'd wait a day or two and test your ammonia levels again (just to be 100%). An alternative is to just toss in a SeaChem Ammonia Alert badge.

 

[Dbichler]

The water change is to bring down the nitrates. If there’s little nitrates there’s no reason to do a waterchange. If there’s high nitrates you can do a 100% waterchange if you want. I have always aimed for around 90% which in the cycles I’ve done brings nitrates down to around 5.

 

[Will_]

Stick to the instructions. I'd wait a day or two and test your ammonia levels again (just to be 100%). An alternative is to just toss in a SeaChem Ammonia Alert badge.

Thanks , I’ll look into the alert badge

 

[Will_]

The water change is to bring down the nitrates. If there’s little nitrates there’s no reason to do a waterchange. If there’s high nitrates you can do a 100% waterchange if you want. I have always aimed for around 90% which in the cycles I’ve done brings nitrates down to around 5.

Thanks for the feedback, in my case with the Nitrates at 2.5ppm then there seems to be no need for a wc

 

[Garf]

Thanks for the feedback, in my case with the Nitrates at 2.5ppm then there seems to be no need for a wc

If you’ve added next to no ammonia, nitrates will actually be lower than what you are detecting. The little nitrite in the water gives a higher nitrate reading due to interference. I wouldn’t bother changing water or you’ll be starting a thread saying you’ve got low phosphate and nitrate, and should you add some, lol.
I’d add a food source (a little crushed flake or summit), then see if the ammonia rises over the next three or four days. Saying that, lots of folk would throw a fish in without issue, except for disease, which is a constant worry for lots in this hobby.

 

[Will_]

If you’ve added next to no ammonia, nitrates will actually be lower than what you are detecting. The little nitrite in the water gives a higher nitrate reading due to interference. I wouldn’t bother changing water or you’ll be starting a thread saying you’ve got low phosphate and nitrate, and should you add some, lol.
I’d add a food source (a little crushed flake or summit), then see if the ammonia rises over the next three or four days. Saying that, lots of folk would throw a fish in without issue, except for disease, which is a constant worry for lots in this hobby.

Was thinking about adding corals before fish, so the tank could be as stable as possible since I have been hearing the fish illness is rampant. Do you think two soft corals and 5 scarlet hermits would be a good addition at this time to add the ammonia ? Thanks

 

[Will_]

If you’ve added next to no ammonia, nitrates will actually be lower than what you are detecting. The little nitrite in the water gives a higher nitrate reading due to interference. I wouldn’t bother changing water or you’ll be starting a thread saying you’ve got low phosphate and nitrate, and should you add some, lol.
I’d add a food source (a little crushed flake or summit), then see if the ammonia rises over the next three or four days. Saying that, lots of folk would throw a fish in without issue, except for disease, which is a constant worry for lots in this hobby.

Also could you please explain how the interference in tests works between nitrite and nitrate ? Thanks

 

[collins.jason.k]

Bottled bacteria enough for 230 gallons of water with 35 lbs of rock. Yes, you are done. Water change what you can handle and your tank will sustain.

Worry now about a healthy environment.

 

[Will_]

Bottled bacteria enough for 230 gallons of water with 35 lbs of rock. Yes, you are done. Water change what you can handle and your tank will sustain.

Worry now about a healthy environment.

haha I thought what the heck can’t hurt, and the numbers look good very quick. Thanks for your input !