David's Innovative Marine 40L AIO Build

JoJosReef

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I'm still deciding on a powerhead I really like the look and dynamic use of the gyres. Did you ever think about just switching the Jump Gyre to a vertical position? I see how a horizontal position could get blocked by the rockwork, but a vertical position could just go around your walls.
Two long. I have a 1-2 inch sand bed. So if I mount the gyre vertical, the end comes above the water line--for sure when the return pumps are off and the gyre keeps going (like when I feed), but might also be above the water line when the returns are running.

I understand you can take off one side of the gyres and get a cap for it so that only one side runs, but then you're paying a lot for half a gyre.
 
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davidandrzej9

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And so it begins. Ordered a duetto 2 ato + Jump Gyre 2k. Cycle started last night.

*What Chemical Filtration do I run while cycling, the instructions on the bacteria bottle told me to not use a filter sock for the cycle. Do I leave any of the carbon or phosphate remover or fiber balls in the tank right now?*

Day 1- Ammonia: 2.0 ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm
Day 7- Ammonia 0.25 ppm Nitrite 5 ppm
Day 11- Ammonia 0 ppm Nitrite 0 ppm

IMG_2761.jpeg
 
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davidandrzej9

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Haven’t been on here in a while, but the tank cycled fully, I did my first water change on the tank, set up the ATO, fine tuned the water levels so I don’t hear any water noise and the water is flowing through the filtration properly rather than just over the glass dividers. I transferred over my fish and corals, and tweaked with the jump gyre settings. It’s currently on Random mode and it alternates between 10-40%. My prime lights are following the brs spectrum and are about 60% intensity with the whites up a bit. I tested my water parameters and my magnesium is over 1500??? My calcium was 430 and my alk was 6.1, so I dosed some red sea foundation and it’s now 8.8. My phosphates were .11 but I wasn’t running any gfo, and it is in the tank now. So hopefully it goes down in the next few days. Nitrates are at 4 ppm.

Questions:
Should I change the jump gyre settings?
Should I raise the intensity on the prime lighting? I only have softies and LPS and any higher intensity causes intense fan noise.
 

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Blopple

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Oh man, I missed this one. I like to watch builds from people with the same tank. Following along now! Like JoJo mentioned, there are quite a few of us running a 40L right now.

Your scape looks great! I definitely built mine a bit taller and regret doing so. I think you made the right call.

Gyre settings seem fine. Probably easier to eyeball it than go based on settings. Scape and pump placement are gonna have a significant impact on flow in the tank. As long as there's decent surface agitation, some coral movement, and detritus isn't settling too badly or in a single spot I'd say you're good.

If it were me I would leave the lights as is unless coral is looking unhappy. I kept turning mine up and up and up thinking that more light = better. All I did was manage to bleach out a couple of things and ended up turning them back down.

Starting with dry rock I'd be careful with the GFO. That stuff is strong, and bottoming it out is likely going to be more problematic than a bit high. Dinos are notoriously challenging to get rid of.
 

CasperOe

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Looks like you've got a lot of good advice already! :) I am just here to congratulate you on your new tank and your progress so far! :) I will be looking forward to following this.. Happy reefing! :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
 
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davidandrzej9

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Oh man, I missed this one. I like to watch builds from people with the same tank. Following along now! Like JoJo mentioned, there are quite a few of us running a 40L right now.

Your scape looks great! I definitely built mine a bit taller and regret doing so. I think you made the right call.

Gyre settings seem fine. Probably easier to eyeball it than go based on settings. Scape and pump placement are gonna have a significant impact on flow in the tank. As long as there's decent surface agitation, some coral movement, and detritus isn't settling too badly or in a single spot I'd say you're good.

If it were me I would leave the lights as is unless coral is looking unhappy. I kept turning mine up and up and up thinking that more light = better. All I did was manage to bleach out a couple of things and ended up turning them back down.

Starting with dry rock I'd be careful with the GFO. That stuff is strong, and bottoming it out is likely going to be more problematic than a bit high. Dinos are notoriously challenging to get rid of.
I have dry live rock, not sure how much that will affect my parameters, maybe I can run the GFO to lower phosphates and then take it out once levels are lower? So it doesn't bottom out. I will also purchase a UV sterilizer incase dynos come. Will test for the phosphates tomorrow to see, I really want to keep algae outbreaks at a minimum. The corals look happy right now, only being in the tank for 48 hours. They're moving around but not moving around too much so I think the flow is good. Also forgot to mention when doing the transfer my royal gramma jumped out of the water and fell on the floor, was about a 5 foot drop, but the gramma looks fine. Hiding in a cave but coming out for food, similar behavior to when it was first added to my small tank. It became almost as active as my clownfish when he settled in.
 

JoJosReef

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I have dry live rock, not sure how much that will affect my parameters, maybe I can run the GFO to lower phosphates and then take it out once levels are lower? So it doesn't bottom out. I will also purchase a UV sterilizer incase dynos come. Will test for the phosphates tomorrow to see, I really want to keep algae outbreaks at a minimum. The corals look happy right now, only being in the tank for 48 hours. They're moving around but not moving around too much so I think the flow is good. Also forgot to mention when doing the transfer my royal gramma jumped out of the water and fell on the floor, was about a 5 foot drop, but the gramma looks fine. Hiding in a cave but coming out for food, similar behavior to when it was first added to my small tank. It became almost as active as my clownfish when he settled in.
Algae is hard to hold off with dry rock. Too much blank real estate. I like the approach of filling up as much coral as possible to get the corals as the major nutrient consumers. Display macroalgae like Botrycladia and Codium is also really great if you don't have major herbivores like tangs or urchins. Keep ALK/Ca up and the coraline can also take off. Turbos/urchins help with the GHA when its short, too. When it gets long, you're the only one who's going to mess with it (slackers). I'd use the GFO but keep an eye on PO4 so it doesn't bottom out. Nothing worse that putting a product in to remove stuff and then having to put a product in to add that same stuff.
 
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davidandrzej9

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After a few days of running the GFO, my phosphates remain at 0.10 (hanna phosphate checker)

My blood shrimp molted and I thought he died for a second lol.

I woke up this morning to lots of brown/red spots all over my tank. Does anyone know what this is?

IMG_2836.jpeg
 

Blopple

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After a few days of running the GFO, my phosphates remain at 0.10 (hanna phosphate checker)

My blood shrimp molted and I thought he died for a second lol.

I woke up this morning to lots of brown/red spots all over my tank. Does anyone know what this is?

IMG_2836.jpeg
Hmmm, kinda tough to tell. My first guess is some spots of film algae? I have similar spots on my sand. They look reddish brown under blues, but under full white (no blue) they are green.

Possibly some diatoms?
 

Huma

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About to start my 40L. Few questions. Do you have your tank flush against the wall. If not how many inches you have it away. Second, why do people change out the media rack with an in tank one.
 
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davidandrzej9

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About to start my 40L. Few questions. Do you have your tank flush against the wall. If not how many inches you have it away. Second, why do people change out the media rack with an in tank one.
I have it like 1-2 inches off the wall for all the cables and magnets holding my ato and heater up. And the media rack it comes with has shelves with holes for water flow and I have kept it in the tank so im not sure what you mean.
 

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About to start my 40L. Few questions. Do you have your tank flush against the wall. If not how many inches you have it away. Second, why do people change out the media rack with an in tank one.
One of my regrets with my current setup is that the stand is only a little over an inch from the wall, which makes retrieving something a royal pain. For my next tank, I want at least enough room to be able to reach my arm behind the tank in case I need to do something. Of course, it won't look as nice that way.
 
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davidandrzej9

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Sad day today, This weekend my LFS had a livestock sale 20% off. I picked up a bunch of coral, some hammers and designer zoas. I also picked up a red fire fish and a long nose hawk fish. Today is my routine day for weekly water changes, so I took the lid off and began vacuuming the sand and taking water out. My fire fish must’ve jumped out while doing this, I did not notice as he landed on my carpet quietly. I ate breakfast and came upstairs and he is dried up and y alive. RIP. Anyways here is my new corals
 

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davidandrzej9

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How do I take good pics of my reef tank with an iphone it appears so much bluer. Here’s a full shot, Wondering what I should pick up next, lots of room for more coral.
 

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JoJosReef

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About to start my 40L. Few questions. Do you have your tank flush against the wall. If not how many inches you have it away. Second, why do people change out the media rack with an in tank one.
Intank makes their media racks very snuggly fitting in the AIO chambers, so you get less water washing over the sides and skipping the media/filtration. They are good media baskets, although a bit pricey. The IM ones aren't a very snug fit, although it's not too much of a problem if your water level is always dropping low enough to where it doesn't overflow the basket.
 
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davidandrzej9

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Was testing my alk and ca to dose my tank, and i touched the water and it was cold. I look at the temperature in my cabinet and its 71 degrees, what the heck my heater was just not working for however long, I have the PTC IM heater and it was showing the error code E7.
 
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davidandrzej9

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Wanted to leave a review on the website Timeless Corals, ordered 4 corals for 260$ to qualify for free shipping. They have the cheapest euphylia corals I have seen, I picked up 2 torches for 90$ each, hammer frag and favia. Corals were shipped overight next day and arrived the following morning well packaged. 5 stars, will post pictures later.
 

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