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OP
d2mini
5000 Club Member
Dude... those crates are no joke and it's like 90 something degrees in my garage still. Yeeesh!Alright, get that thing unboxed.
d2mini's "Mixed Reefalicious" Cade 600 Build
- Build Thread
- Thread starter d2mini
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d2mini
5000 Club Member
Got the tank unpacked and in place! I took some video of the unpacking that I'll put together and I'll get some detail pics later, but here's a couple pics of the tank in place. I need to hook up all the plumbing next. Then I can move on to installing other equipment.
This is my first experience with Cade and I have to say that so far I am very impressed. I've had Elos, Waterbox, Planet, Innovative Marine (25 lagoon)... so a pretty good breath of tank manufacturers. The tank itself feels very high quality. Very clean silicone work, basically non-existent visually. Clean, polished edges. White vinyl on the bottom. Even came with a screen top. The whole overflow area in back seems well thought out, and very clean as well. Lower and upper intake grates on the left side with output on the top right.
The stand is very impressive. All metal framing with a nice black finish. The doors are frameless black glass. The top is padded for the tank to sit on. 4 large leveling feet. The inner shelf is removable... something I couldn't find any info on in my research, so that's nice if I decide to not use it. I'm really not sure how I'm going to handle electronics yet.
And finally, the sump is glass, not acrylic. Everything about this tank is a beast!
Sump comes with 3 removable media baskets and one filter sock.
This setup was quite a bit more than Red Sea but I can see where the extra money went, for sure.
It's still far less than an Elos Diamond setup.
I'd say it's priced appropriately.
Also wanted to send a shout out to Cade and @AlgaeBarn customer service, specifically Samantha. I ordered through my LFS (FJW Aquarium in Houston) but was kept up to date, sent a bunch of info on what to expect for delivery, how to handle the delivery, sent tracking info, etc. And also had all my questions answered super fast while I waited. The only issue I had after delivery was realizing one of the hinge pins broke for the front door and Samantha was right on it, sending out a replacement.
Juno approves!
This is my first experience with Cade and I have to say that so far I am very impressed. I've had Elos, Waterbox, Planet, Innovative Marine (25 lagoon)... so a pretty good breath of tank manufacturers. The tank itself feels very high quality. Very clean silicone work, basically non-existent visually. Clean, polished edges. White vinyl on the bottom. Even came with a screen top. The whole overflow area in back seems well thought out, and very clean as well. Lower and upper intake grates on the left side with output on the top right.
The stand is very impressive. All metal framing with a nice black finish. The doors are frameless black glass. The top is padded for the tank to sit on. 4 large leveling feet. The inner shelf is removable... something I couldn't find any info on in my research, so that's nice if I decide to not use it. I'm really not sure how I'm going to handle electronics yet.
And finally, the sump is glass, not acrylic. Everything about this tank is a beast!
Sump comes with 3 removable media baskets and one filter sock.
This setup was quite a bit more than Red Sea but I can see where the extra money went, for sure.
It's still far less than an Elos Diamond setup.
I'd say it's priced appropriately.
Also wanted to send a shout out to Cade and @AlgaeBarn customer service, specifically Samantha. I ordered through my LFS (FJW Aquarium in Houston) but was kept up to date, sent a bunch of info on what to expect for delivery, how to handle the delivery, sent tracking info, etc. And also had all my questions answered super fast while I waited. The only issue I had after delivery was realizing one of the hinge pins broke for the front door and Samantha was right on it, sending out a replacement.
Juno approves!
Last edited:
OP
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d2mini
5000 Club Member
Things are moving slowly but here's a small update.
I had to figure out a way to install my GHL Mitras light. It was either use the GHL Flex Mount or go with the wire hanging kit. I wanted to retain the ability to move the light up and down if necessary and either solution would work, but this particular stand wasn't exactly conducive to mounting the Flex Mount. You have to drill through the back of the stand to send a couple large bolts through that can be tightened after sliding the mount up or down to change the height. The back of the stand is completely open on the upper half. The lower half has a metal cross support in the middle and below that is a piece of industrial plastic which is much thinner than the typical wood stand the Flex Mount is designed for.
Well I found a way to make it work. I had some scrap wood laying around. I cut a piece to about the same height as that plastic. Cut a notch out of the bottom to fit around a screw head that holds the plastic to the metal framing. Painted it black, then used some self-tapping metal screws to attach the wood to the frame that runs behind the plastic. Then I was able to drill the holes for the Flex Mount through the plastic and wood. Normally you would have a good amount of space between the two bolts but I have just open air at the top half and I still need to make sure I have the light at a decent level above the water surface, but I was able to just get two bolts and knobs fitted under the metal crossmember.
I should now have the bottom of the light sitting at around 11" off the water surface, maybe a tad more.
Still need to attach the light to the mount but here it is after mounting the Flex Mount.
I had to figure out a way to install my GHL Mitras light. It was either use the GHL Flex Mount or go with the wire hanging kit. I wanted to retain the ability to move the light up and down if necessary and either solution would work, but this particular stand wasn't exactly conducive to mounting the Flex Mount. You have to drill through the back of the stand to send a couple large bolts through that can be tightened after sliding the mount up or down to change the height. The back of the stand is completely open on the upper half. The lower half has a metal cross support in the middle and below that is a piece of industrial plastic which is much thinner than the typical wood stand the Flex Mount is designed for.
Well I found a way to make it work. I had some scrap wood laying around. I cut a piece to about the same height as that plastic. Cut a notch out of the bottom to fit around a screw head that holds the plastic to the metal framing. Painted it black, then used some self-tapping metal screws to attach the wood to the frame that runs behind the plastic. Then I was able to drill the holes for the Flex Mount through the plastic and wood. Normally you would have a good amount of space between the two bolts but I have just open air at the top half and I still need to make sure I have the light at a decent level above the water surface, but I was able to just get two bolts and knobs fitted under the metal crossmember.
I should now have the bottom of the light sitting at around 11" off the water surface, maybe a tad more.
Still need to attach the light to the mount but here it is after mounting the Flex Mount.
Great looking tank!
I am running two Octo Pulse 2's on my 65g lagoon after running a combination of Vortech/Jebao/Tunze over the years and I can say I am very pleased with them.
I am running two Octo Pulse 2's on my 65g lagoon after running a combination of Vortech/Jebao/Tunze over the years and I can say I am very pleased with them.
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d2mini
5000 Club Member
Awesome, thanks for the info!
OP
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d2mini
5000 Club Member
Light mounted, set up and programmed. At least for now. I didn’t realize how much I missed that blue light.
OP
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d2mini
5000 Club Member
I created a vid of the delivery, unpacking and then going over some details of the tank once in place.
OP
OP
d2mini
5000 Club Member
Been spending a lot of time trying to figure out the best way to deal with equipment and such in this stand.
Cube stands are TIGHT!
This stand comes with a metal shelf mounted by the dj strip, meant to hold wires and power supplies, with controllers and stuff mounted on the other side of the wall. That won't work for my GHL controller though. It needs a shelf to sit on. Problem was, as you can see in the vid above, it's a super tight fit. Too tight. So tight that I couldn't even get the Doser in there with it.
But I found a solution!
I was able to unmount the shelf from the RIGHT side of the support bar that runs beneath the tank and mount it to the LEFT side of the bar. Even re-used the same two self-tapping screws. But I had to cut a notch out of both sides of the vertical shelf wall. The corners fold over so it wouldn't sit flush agains this side of the bar. Dremel to the rescue. Then a little filing and some black paint to cover the newly cut edges.
But now the other side was now too far away from the support rail that the base sits on. So I removed the rail, cut a 3/4" square strip of wood, painted it black and used it as a spacer. Two longer self-tapping screws and the support rail was re-installed.
And then it looks like my GHL Power Bar sits perfectly on top of the dj strip. Currently, I don't think I need more than one power bar.
Cube stands are TIGHT!
This stand comes with a metal shelf mounted by the dj strip, meant to hold wires and power supplies, with controllers and stuff mounted on the other side of the wall. That won't work for my GHL controller though. It needs a shelf to sit on. Problem was, as you can see in the vid above, it's a super tight fit. Too tight. So tight that I couldn't even get the Doser in there with it.
But I found a solution!
I was able to unmount the shelf from the RIGHT side of the support bar that runs beneath the tank and mount it to the LEFT side of the bar. Even re-used the same two self-tapping screws. But I had to cut a notch out of both sides of the vertical shelf wall. The corners fold over so it wouldn't sit flush agains this side of the bar. Dremel to the rescue. Then a little filing and some black paint to cover the newly cut edges.
But now the other side was now too far away from the support rail that the base sits on. So I removed the rail, cut a 3/4" square strip of wood, painted it black and used it as a spacer. Two longer self-tapping screws and the support rail was re-installed.
And then it looks like my GHL Power Bar sits perfectly on top of the dj strip. Currently, I don't think I need more than one power bar.
MartinM
Valuable Member
Nice setup so far!
- Elos has dropped waaay down in quality. They are arguably similar in quality now to Red Sea. I spent $14,000 on their XL200 (nearly 1000L) And in some ways it’s worse than the Red Sea equivalent the costs less than $5000. I found out from a reputable LSS owner here, that I met after the fact, about this huge quality drop. It’s sad, because when I took a hiatus 10 years ago Elos was at the top so that’s what I bought when I came back. So, you dodged a bullet there!
- Let me know how you like the light, I debated about going with the Mitras before getting the Straton instead. I also prefer MH/T5, but I didn’t want to put a chiller on my small system. I have Geisemann spectra fixtures on my Elos though, can’t beat that MH look. I do have a custom fixture I got made for it from Giesemann So now that it’s getting colder here I might try it
- Getting everything to fit in the stand was impossible for me. I had a custom cabinet built next to the tank the house everything. although I’m not nearly as good at installing stuff as you are, nice work
- What are you planning to keep in the cube?
- I highly recommend going 100% live rock, because you won’t be able to fit that much rock
stoked for updates!
- Elos has dropped waaay down in quality. They are arguably similar in quality now to Red Sea. I spent $14,000 on their XL200 (nearly 1000L) And in some ways it’s worse than the Red Sea equivalent the costs less than $5000. I found out from a reputable LSS owner here, that I met after the fact, about this huge quality drop. It’s sad, because when I took a hiatus 10 years ago Elos was at the top so that’s what I bought when I came back. So, you dodged a bullet there!
- Let me know how you like the light, I debated about going with the Mitras before getting the Straton instead. I also prefer MH/T5, but I didn’t want to put a chiller on my small system. I have Geisemann spectra fixtures on my Elos though, can’t beat that MH look. I do have a custom fixture I got made for it from Giesemann So now that it’s getting colder here I might try it
- Getting everything to fit in the stand was impossible for me. I had a custom cabinet built next to the tank the house everything. although I’m not nearly as good at installing stuff as you are, nice work
- What are you planning to keep in the cube?
- I highly recommend going 100% live rock, because you won’t be able to fit that much rock
stoked for updates!
OP
OP
d2mini
5000 Club Member
Thanks!Nice setup so far!
- Elos has dropped waaay down in quality. They are arguably similar in quality now to Red Sea. I spent $14,000 on their XL200 (nearly 1000L) And in some ways it’s worse than the Red Sea equivalent the costs less than $5000. I found out from a reputable LSS owner here, that I met after the fact, about this huge quality drop. It’s sad, because when I took a hiatus 10 years ago Elos was at the top so that’s what I bought when I came back. So, you dodged a bullet there!
- Let me know how you like the light, I debated about going with the Mitras before getting the Straton instead. I also prefer MH/T5, but I didn’t want to put a chiller on my small system. I have Geisemann spectra fixtures on my Elos though, can’t beat that MH look. I do have a custom fixture I got made for it from Giesemann So now that it’s getting colder here I might try it
- Getting everything to fit in the stand was impossible for me. I had a custom cabinet built next to the tank the house everything. although I’m not nearly as good at installing stuff as you are, nice work
- What are you planning to keep in the cube?
- I highly recommend going 100% live rock, because you won’t be able to fit that much rock
stoked for updates!
- Wow, that's crazy about Elos! I had no idea. My 120xl I got in 2016 was a really nice tank. And then after that they came out with the new line of metal stands. So I thought overall they had gotten better.
- I've had Mitras before. They make really nice lights. Over the past 8 years or so I've used either Radions or Mitras and could go with either. I can say that between the Mitras and the other GHL equipment I have, their build quality is top notch with everything they make.
- LOL, I am doing my best to make it all fit!
Also trying not to overcomplicate things with equipment I don't really need.- Fish... no idea yet. I'm sure a clown or two and then we'll see. Coral... mostly LPS and SPS.
- Oh yeah, I ALWAYS do Tampa Bay Saltwater. Just waiting for them to catch up on orders after Hurricane Ian. Should have the first shipment within a couple weeks.
OP
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d2mini
5000 Club Member
The RO/DI is making water.
I have a 200g bag of Red Sea Coral Pro salt sitting here on standby.
And the tank is perfectly level in all directions.
I have a 200g bag of Red Sea Coral Pro salt sitting here on standby.
And the tank is perfectly level in all directions.
OP
OP
d2mini
5000 Club Member
So I was bored while waiting for my RO/DI to make water and took a few detail pics of the Cade.
CORNER JOINT
RETURN NOZZLE and COVER OVER THE RETUN PLUMBING AREA WHICH ALSO DOUBLES AS AN ATO.
COVER OVER THE DRAIN SECTION/OVERFLOW WITH UPPER OVERFLOW GRATE
LOOKING DOWN INTO THE ATO/RETURN PLUMBING AREA (reflection in the glass makes you see double)
PRIMARY DRAIN ON THE LEFT, SECONDARY DRAIN ON THE RIGHT
ANOTHER SHOT OF THE RETURN NOZZLE/PLUMBING
DISPLAY SITTING ON THE METAL STAND WITH BLACK GLAS DOOR
DJ STRIP IN THE ELECTRONICS AREA BEHIND THE RIGHT DOOR
METAL DOOR HINGE
LOWER OVERFLOW GRATE
CORNER JOINT
RETURN NOZZLE and COVER OVER THE RETUN PLUMBING AREA WHICH ALSO DOUBLES AS AN ATO.
COVER OVER THE DRAIN SECTION/OVERFLOW WITH UPPER OVERFLOW GRATE
LOOKING DOWN INTO THE ATO/RETURN PLUMBING AREA (reflection in the glass makes you see double)
PRIMARY DRAIN ON THE LEFT, SECONDARY DRAIN ON THE RIGHT
ANOTHER SHOT OF THE RETURN NOZZLE/PLUMBING
DISPLAY SITTING ON THE METAL STAND WITH BLACK GLAS DOOR
DJ STRIP IN THE ELECTRONICS AREA BEHIND THE RIGHT DOOR
METAL DOOR HINGE
LOWER OVERFLOW GRATE
I'm really interested in any feedback you may have (once the tank is running) about the adjustability of the overflow and how quiet you're able to get the overflow.So I was bored while waiting for my RO/DI to make water and took a few detail pics of the Cade.
CORNER JOINT
RETURN NOZZLE and COVER OVER THE RETUN PLUMBING AREA WHICH ALSO DOUBLES AS AN ATO.
COVER OVER THE DRAIN SECTION/OVERFLOW WITH UPPER OVERFLOW GRATE
LOOKING DOWN INTO THE ATO/RETURN PLUMBING AREA (reflection in the glass makes you see double)
PRIMARY DRAIN ON THE LEFT, SECONDARY DRAIN ON THE RIGHT
ANOTHER SHOT OF THE RETURN NOZZLE/PLUMBING
DISPLAY SITTING ON THE METAL STAND WITH BLACK GLAS DOOR
DJ STRIP IN THE ELECTRONICS AREA BEHIND THE RIGHT DOOR
METAL DOOR HINGE
LOWER OVERFLOW GRATE
The Cade looks great so far.
OP
OP
d2mini
5000 Club Member
Thanks! Starting to fill now.
A little at a time as I test for leaks.
OP
OP
d2mini
5000 Club Member
Thanks! I should have a TBS order coming in a week or two.
They are catching up on orders after Hurricane Ian.
Love the detailed pics of your new tank. AWESOME.So I was bored while waiting for my RO/DI to make water and took a few detail pics of the Cade.
CORNER JOINT
RETURN NOZZLE and COVER OVER THE RETUN PLUMBING AREA WHICH ALSO DOUBLES AS AN ATO.
COVER OVER THE DRAIN SECTION/OVERFLOW WITH UPPER OVERFLOW GRATE
LOOKING DOWN INTO THE ATO/RETURN PLUMBING AREA (reflection in the glass makes you see double)
PRIMARY DRAIN ON THE LEFT, SECONDARY DRAIN ON THE RIGHT
ANOTHER SHOT OF THE RETURN NOZZLE/PLUMBING
DISPLAY SITTING ON THE METAL STAND WITH BLACK GLAS DOOR
DJ STRIP IN THE ELECTRONICS AREA BEHIND THE RIGHT DOOR
METAL DOOR HINGE
LOWER OVERFLOW GRATE
OP
OP
d2mini
5000 Club Member
Thanks!
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